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American food sucks
The Spectator (U.K.) ^ | 08/21/04 | Ella Windsor

Posted on 08/19/2004 7:01:22 AM PDT by Pokey78

Ella Windsor says that if you don’t like pigging out, you won’t much enjoy eating in the US, where The Cheesecake Factory serves portions big enough to kill an ox

My American friends in England never stop complaining about the food here. It’s all ‘gloopy’, they say, and they bitch about the warm beer, grey curries and unidentifiable soups. Sometimes their longing for US comfort food — beefburgers, hotdogs, cookies, tacos and dairy queen ice cream — becomes so strong that some of them even resort to a company called the Food Ferry, a British Internet site that delivers Skippy Peanut Butter, beef jerky and Oreo cookies.

My solution is a little different. I tell them that American food is overrated, unhealthy and revolting, and the sooner they wean themselves off it, the better they will feel.

American food seems pretty impressive at first sight, but during a four-year stint in the US I realised that it is basically a con trick: bigger isn’t necessarily better; brighter colours don’t mean more intense flavours; sugar tastes good, but leaves you feeling depressed, sick and still hungry.

British cuisine may be considered bland but at least, by and large, you know what you’re putting in your mouth. One of America’s bestselling snacks is a cheese dip designed to be scooped up with nacho chips. It’s runny, it’s orange, it tastes like cheese, but a label on the jar says that it’s a ‘non-dairy product’. Then there are Twinkies — small yellow sponge cakes found in the lunchboxes of most US children. Twinkies are made of such mysterious stuff that they don’t have a best-before date and are subjected to scientific tests. ‘A Twinkie was left on a window ledge for four days,’ says one Internet report, ‘during which time many flies were observed crawling across the Twinkie’s surface but, contrary to our hypothesis, birds — even pigeons — avoided this potential source of sustenance.’

Even the food that’s made of food is a challenge. A pastrami sandwich comes with a good six inches of meat in the middle — how do you get your mouth around something that’s nearly as big as your head? After a few attempts, any appetite you might once have had is gone. Have you ever tried an American apple? They look perfect — enormous, red and shiny — but have the consistency of cotton wool. It’s the same with the meat: huge, juicy-looking steaks, and chops, perfectly grilled, pink inside, but tasting of wet paper.

The Cheesecake Factory is one of the most popular family food chains in the US — and for me the most grotesque example of American food. A single slice of cheesecake is as big as a brick and would more than suffice for a meal. An entire cheesecake could quite easily put a small child into hyperglycaemic shock. It must put a strain on family life, having to watch your nearest and dearest eating this gunk. The cheesecake is just one of the ‘factory’ specials whose metal menu lists hundreds of other dishes, like the Tons of Fun burger: ‘Yes, It’s True! Double Patties, Double Cheese, Triple Sesame-Seed Bun with Lettuce, Tomato, Red Onion, Pickles and Secret Sauce. Served with Fries’ and the Mile-High Meatloaf Sandwich ‘Topped with Mashed Potatoes, Crispy Onions and Barbeque Au Jus. Served Open-Faced on Extra Thick Egg Bread.’

The labelling of dishes in American restaurants provides an interesting challenge to both menu-writer and reader. Ordering from the food encyclopaedias of restaurants like The Cheesecake Factory is rather like resitting one’s SAT tests. There is a full page dedicated to every beast, bread and starch as well as every national cuisine; also ‘fusion’ dishes. Whatever I chose, I was always left worrying whether I’d made the wrong decision. And despite the bewildering variety of foodstuffs on offer, any attempt to veer from the menu is greeted with blank incomprehension:

‘Just the turkey, please.’

‘The dish comes that way.’

‘But I only want the turkey, thanks.’

‘I’m sorry, miss, that’s not possible.’

‘But I know you’ve got grilled turkey — it says so right here.’

‘That’s our Grilled Turkey Sandwich, miss. Our Grilled Turkey’s on our dinner menu.’

‘But surely you can just remove the bread?’

‘No — I’m sorry. Like I told you before, the Grilled Turkey Sandwich comes with the bread.’

‘You make it sound like it’s born with the bread.’

So you decide to eat in, but this involves a trip to the supermarket and hours spent trying to spot the microscopic differences between thousands of identical brands. Whereas in England we would have an aisle of grains and jams and cereals, Americans will dedicate an area the size of a tennis court just to varieties of bread: loafs of every shape and shade, bagels and buns, waffle mix. Often, in desperation, I’d just go for the most adventurous option. ‘Coconut-sprinkled sweet potatoes’ made one appearance in my flat, but only one.

Half the problem, I think, is that food isn’t just food in the States — it’s an obsession. Not only does Adam’s Peanut Butter Cup Fudge Ripple Cheesecake exist, it can be gawped at online. The Krispy Kreme website features a five-minute video with a jaunty electronic soundtrack showing rows of little doughnuts browning slowly on a conveyor belt, before being lovingly glazed, bought and eaten. Food even provides whole states with a sense of history and identity — Midwestern towns fight over titles like ‘home of the peanut’, ‘birthplace of the corndog’, ‘Krispy Kreme Kountry’.

And with the excesses of American food comes a national fixation on dieting: as Eric Schlosser reports, McDonald’s has attempted to cash in on this with a McLean burger for dieters. We may not go to the gym so often in Britain, but our food doesn’t demand that we do. I flew back from America looking forward to shepherd’s pie and pints of beer only to be confronted by an upsurge in American fast food in London — not enough to keep my US friends happy, but still worrying. Perhaps we and the Americans should pay more attention to global gastronomy. We could form a food think tank to wean the US off sugar and on to snails, squid and sushi. It would make us all healthier — and happier.


TOPICS: Culture/Society; Editorial; News/Current Events; United Kingdom
KEYWORDS: food
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1 posted on 08/19/2004 7:01:23 AM PDT by Pokey78
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To: Pokey78

Takes a lot of crust for a Brit complain about Yank food.


2 posted on 08/19/2004 7:03:48 AM PDT by Semper Paratus
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To: Pokey78

Yeah, but our teeth are much better, so there!


3 posted on 08/19/2004 7:05:23 AM PDT by steve8714
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To: Pokey78

This writer is a twit who has her panties in a twist.

What a contrived topic. She may have spent some years here, but I did the same in the UK. Now I can tell you that they can turn out some real crap too. So what? One just has to be a little discriminating, in any part of the world.

If one knew what one was doing, the food in the UK was quite good. The same statement can be made about the states or any other place.


4 posted on 08/19/2004 7:07:30 AM PDT by x1stcav (Benedict Arnold was a war hero, too.)
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To: Semper Paratus

As opposed to England, where you can get fish n' chips, or fish n' chips, or for a unique treat, fish n' chips.

My argument makes absolutely as much sense as hers.


5 posted on 08/19/2004 7:07:42 AM PDT by ConservativeWarrior
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To: Pokey78

When you eat bone marrow pie ya know you're in England


6 posted on 08/19/2004 7:07:47 AM PDT by woofie ( It's not an optical illusion. It just looks like one.)
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To: Pokey78
...their longing for US comfort food — beefburgers, hotdogs, cookies, tacos and dairy queen ice cream...

No wonder this guy doesn't understand. That crap is not US comfort food. Guess he's never had, good ol' American chicken and dumplings, fried catfish and hushpuppies, smoked baby back ribs or even just plain old pinto beans, cornbread, fried taters with green onions and a jalapeno on the side.

7 posted on 08/19/2004 7:08:15 AM PDT by ladtx ( "Remember your regiment and follow your officers." Captain Charles May, 2d Dragoons, 9 May 1846)
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To: Semper Paratus

Do you want mushy peas with your Whine?


8 posted on 08/19/2004 7:08:33 AM PDT by gr8eman (Want me to show you a little trick to take your mind off that pain?)
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Comment #9 Removed by Moderator

To: Pokey78
Double Patties, Double Cheese, Triple Sesame-Seed Bun with Lettuce, Tomato, Red Onion, Pickles and Secret Sauce. Served with Fries’ and the Mile-High Meatloaf Sandwich ‘Topped with Mashed Potatoes, Crispy Onions and Barbeque Au Jus. Served Open-Faced on Extra Thick Egg Bread.

I think I had one of these the other day...

Coulda used some mayo.


10 posted on 08/19/2004 7:08:39 AM PDT by MrJingles (So the world hates us? "Oderint dum metuant." - Seneca)
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To: Pokey78

Poor British twit, if it wasn't for us she'd be brunching on wurst and viener schnitzel. (Both of which taste a lot better than British food)


11 posted on 08/19/2004 7:08:57 AM PDT by brothers4thID (We are going to take from you to provide for the common good)
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To: Pokey78

They're called "spices" and "garlic", and the Brits should look into them.


12 posted on 08/19/2004 7:09:16 AM PDT by hispanarepublicana (Free Brigitte Bardot.)
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To: Pokey78
I tell them that American food is overrated, unhealthy and revolting,

This from a woman who probably eats kidney pie.

‘But surely you can just remove the bread?’

So, apparently the author was incapable of removing the turkey for between the bread herself.

13 posted on 08/19/2004 7:09:39 AM PDT by CaptRon (Pedecaris alive or Raisuli dead)
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To: Pokey78

Lol, if American food is so bad.. why is it making it's way all over the world?


14 posted on 08/19/2004 7:10:02 AM PDT by Trillian
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To: Pokey78

This writer is a twit who has her panties in a bunch.

What a contrived topic. She may have spent some years here, but I did the same in the UK. Now I can tell you that they can turn out some real crap too. So what? One just has to be a little discriminating, in any part of the world.

If one knew what one was doing, the food in the UK was quite good. The same statement can be made about the states or any other place.


15 posted on 08/19/2004 7:10:02 AM PDT by x1stcav (Benedict Arnold was a war hero, too.)
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To: ConservativeWarrior
As opposed to England, where you can get fish n' chips, or fish n' chips, or for a unique treat, fish n' chips.

Wrong. You left out the curry houses. There are more Indian restaurants in London than in Bombay.

This writer goes way over the top...I disagree with her. You can eat very well in America, you just have to know where to go - and in that, it's like anyplace else. What is certainly true is that your wallet is more likely to be fuller after an American meal than a European one.

Regards, Ivan

16 posted on 08/19/2004 7:10:25 AM PDT by MadIvan (Gothic. Freaky. Conservative. - http://www.rightgoths.com/)
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To: Pokey78
We could form a food think tank to wean the US off sugar and on to snails, squid and sushi. It would make us all healthier — and happier

I don't know how that would make them healthier and happier but oh well. Its funny how my Brit friends who have been in America for some time drink cold Coors or Bud and love burgers and fries. As far as his comment on American steaks, he is a lying sack. Maybe he had sirloin at Luby's.

My Brit friends will drink hot tea when its 105 degrees and tell me its refreshing. When one says words like "y'all" or "fixin'" the others will give them a dirty look. It's funny.

17 posted on 08/19/2004 7:10:25 AM PDT by normy (Just cause you think you can box, doesn't mean you're ready to climb in the ring with Ali.)
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To: Pokey78

And isn't "squab" actually a fancy name for the nasty vermin we call "pigeon"?


18 posted on 08/19/2004 7:10:39 AM PDT by hispanarepublicana (Free Brigitte Bardot.)
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To: Pokey78

This twit's obviously never had good barbeque.


19 posted on 08/19/2004 7:11:32 AM PDT by CholeraJoe (I could have been an actor, but I wound up here. I just have to look good, I don't have to be clear.)
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To: ladtx

My husband's mother taught me how to make chicken potatoes and dumplings and all of his favorite dishes. I've improved all the recipes and they are better than ever. I'd never had it until I met him, great stuff!


20 posted on 08/19/2004 7:12:13 AM PDT by Trillian
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