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The Bull About the Beef - Has the Atkins diet really transformed the American economy?
Slate ^ | September 15, 2003 | Charles Duhigg

Posted on 09/15/2003 6:12:23 PM PDT by SamAdams76

When Unilever PLC, the British food giant that owns Slim-Fast Foods, announced in July that U.S. profits had dropped 23 percent, it quickly pointed an accusing finger at the Atkins diet, the trendy weight-loss plan high in protein and low in carbohydrates. Atkins, Unilever's chairman explained, has set off shock waves in consumption that have cut Slim-Fast's profits, and there's no way to fight a fad.

Suddenly, Wall Street is blaming the diet craze for all sorts of economic upheavals, and the deafening buzz is almost enough to drown out economic sense. Time, the Economist, USA Today, and countless media outlets—marveling at the idea of slimming pork chops and heavy cream—have touted the commercial impact of the Atkins plan. The diet has been blamed for falling wheat prices and booming beef sales.

But is there really an Atkins economy?

Three months ago, the British Federation of Bakers made headlines when it announced that bread sales have declined 2 percent per year since Dr. Atkins' book was re-released in 1997. Wheat consumption has dropped from 147 pounds per person to 139 pounds in the past six years. And in May, the Tortilla Industry Association held a high-profile seminar titled "An Industry in Crisis: The High-Protein, Low-Carb Diet and Its Effects on the Tortilla Industry."

Atkins-friendly foods, on the other hand, are booming. News reports have credited Atkins for an increase in U.S. beef sales in 12 of the past 14 quarters. Prices on cattle futures have climbed from 65 cents per pound in 2001 to 82 cents per pound today (suggesting the beef market has grown by $3 billion in 3 years). Consumption of bacon and eggs are at 10-year highs. Beef jerky sales are up more than 40 percent in the past two years, and pork-rinds have tripled their market share to $496 million per year.

Entrepreneurs are rushing to join the party. Atkins Nutritionals Inc., the food company started by Atkins before his death this year, sold $100 million worth of 90 low-carb products last year. Weight Watchers is introducing a low-carb pasta. Michelob hawks its new beer Ultra with the slogan, "Lose the carbs. Not the taste." (Michelob refuses to specify how the beer is selling but says it has "exceeded expectations.") And in California, New York, and, improbably, Texas, you can get freshly prepared Atkins meals delivered hot to your door. No one can specify the size of the Atkins market, but experts estimate it's at least $1 billion per year.

"It's rare that a diet will have an impact on national trends," said Harry Balzer, the author of the annual Eating Patterns in America. "Atkins is the exception."

But Atkins is winning more credit than it deserves, say economists. It's an example of how media excitement about a cultural trend leads to misinterpretation of an economic trend.

The evidence most commonly cited to prove the Atkins diet is roiling the economy is a study by the Natural Marketing Institute that claims 25.4 million Americans—12 percent of the adult population—have tried the Atkins diet. But those numbers deserve a little skepticism. NMI's executive project director, Joe Marra, said the company doesn't specifically ask about the Atkins diet. Rather, under the methodology used by NMI in its survey of 2,000 families, anyone who forgoes bread for a few days in an attempt to lose a few pounds is considered an Atkins dieter.

But almost everyone else, including experts from the consumer information giant NPD Foodworld, pegs the number of Atkins dieters at closer to 3 percent of the nation's adult population—about 6 million people—based on statistical sampling.

The Research Institute on Livestock Pricing reports that the average American per-capita consumption of beef has increased 1.8 pounds per year since 1997—another 525 million pounds per year. If the 6 million Atkins dieters are consuming all that additional beef, then they are eating 87.5 pounds more meat per year than they previously did, which would mean they're now eating steak and burgers at every meal except breakfast. And that's just beef. Pork, chicken, eggs—if all the increases in Atkins-friendly foods are due to Atkins dieters, it's a wonder anyone has lost weight: They would have to be eating almost nonstop. (And those who note the surge in Atkins-friendly food tend to ignore an equally vigorous countertrend: Sales of Krispy Kreme donuts grew an amazing 25 percent last year, to $492 million, with cookies, potato chips, and other Atkins-verboten products following suit.)

So, why the increase in demand for beef, pork, and chicken? Atkins probably plays a small part, but it may have much more to do with everyday economics than any fad diet. Convenience, more than anything else, is what drives consumer trends, say experts. "Time is of the essence," said Balzer. "The trend in the last 15 years has been towards more convenient options. Cereal bars, toaster pastries, frozen breakfast sandwiches—that's where the growth has been."

"Today's family has two working parents," said Wayne Purcell, professor of agricultural and applied economics at Virginia Tech.* "They want something easy to prepare, and the meat industry is finally providing that."

Meat is suddenly convenient. Beef Magazine reported that last year more than 500 new "beef convenience" products were launched, and sales of frozen and heat-and-serve beef have hit $1.5 billion, up from virtually nothing a decade ago. For the first time beef is transitioning from a commodity to a branded product, with quality improving as a result. "Ten years ago people just bought steak, and it might be pretty tough," said Purcell. "Now they buy Omaha Steaks filet mignon, ready to heat up in minutes. Companies are putting out much better meat in order to compete."

But if the Atkins diet is supposed to help America lose weight, the push for convenience has the opposite effect. Economists at the National Bureau of Economic Research and University of Chicago persuasively argue that one of the biggest reasons for the nation's current obesity epidemic is that food is now so much cheaper and easier to prepare. "Forty percent of the recent growth in weight seems to be due to agricultural innovation that has lowered food prices," write Darius Lakdawalla of the RAND Corp. and Tomas Philipson of the University of Chicago.

It's simple supply and demand: When supply becomes more prevalent, demand is easier to satisfy. We're not eating more steak because of the Atkins diet, they say. We're eating more, simply because we can.


TOPICS: Culture/Society
KEYWORDS: atkinsdiet
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To: SamAdams76
Thanks so much for posting pictures! You're a great example! I re-started my new way of eating last Monday and in one week I've lost 11 lbs! It won't continue that fast, I'm sure, but it's got me motivated.
41 posted on 09/15/2003 7:45:51 PM PDT by Dianna
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To: diotima
Are you going to ATF night this month?
42 posted on 09/15/2003 7:46:16 PM PDT by Bella_Bru (For all your tagline needs. Don't delay! Orders shipped overnight.)
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To: Bella_Bru
Maybe. McClintock is going to be there so we might do Anna's show there and then interview him. I'm still working on the logistics. Since Anna's show is on Thursdays, I can't get to AFT night.
43 posted on 09/15/2003 7:50:09 PM PDT by diotima (So it's sorta social, demented and sad, but social.)
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To: SamAdams76
Well congrats on controlling your weight. Like you I was raised on the old food pyramid and its a killer.

The hallmark of America is overweight people.

I have lost about 45 pounds over the last year or so but have only discovered the low carb aspect of dieting in the past 6 months. It makes keeping the weight off easy.

The fun part for me is that I was always too vain to throw away my "skinny" clothes so I am recessing back through a whole new wardrobe of forgotten things. Many of my 265 pound clothes are now gone for good.

Go Adkins!
44 posted on 09/15/2003 7:53:18 PM PDT by Pylot
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To: Fred Mertz
Yes, we did meet at the MFJ back in October 1998. I was with my wife and two sons. They were much smaller then and all bummed out because they missed out on trick-or-treating that year. That was a great time.

I'm about 6'4" but actually closer to 6'3" and a half.

Anyway, it's getting late so I'm going to answer a few more replies and then hit the sack. 5AM is not that far away! But before I go, I ought to post a picture of one of the "low-carb" fish I caught that day. Yeah, we ate good that night.


45 posted on 09/15/2003 8:19:49 PM PDT by SamAdams76 (220.4 (-79.8) Earning back my youth one mile at a time)
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To: SamAdams76
Thank you for all the info. You have inspired me to get back on the low-carb track. A couple of months ago I bought the Atkins book. I had been walking and trying the low carb approach and was doing okay. Then I got busy, fell into old habits and some weight came back. I was having trouble keeping my carbs real low and I got bored with the food real quick. Maybe aiming for under 100 grams instead of under 50 helps to insure long term success. I will print out this thread to help myself stay focused.
46 posted on 09/15/2003 8:22:36 PM PDT by Qathleen
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To: Sloth
Well good luck losing it naturally. It's really the best way to go and it makes you feel so good. My advice to you is to be patient. It took years to put the weight on and it's not going to come off overnight. Sometimes even I get frustrated because as much weight as I've lost, I've still got that "gut", albeit much smaller than before. At 220, I figure I have at least another 30 pounds to go before I have a truly flat stomach. That would be a total loss of 110 pounds!

Also, try to find some time in your day to walk. Even if it is only walking around the block at first. Walk that block every day and then eventually you will find yourself walking further each time.

When I first started walking in April, my thighs would rub together and bleed. Also my shins and feet would ache like hell. It was very discouraging. But I kept at it. And eventually I got to the point where I am now walking 7-10 miles a day. I'd like to walk more but there just aren't enough hours in the day - even when you wake up at 5AM! To pass the time, I carry a MP3 player and I listen to lots of classical, opera, jazz, and other music I never give a chance to during the regular day. When you are walking, you can focus on the music you are listening too and really start to appreciate it. As well, I pay attention to all the scenery around me. All the fall colors are starting to come in around here.

Anyway, look at it as a journey well worth taking. Just take it one day at a time. You'll get there. And once people start noticing the weight coming off, you will be motivated to take off even more. At least that's how it was with me.

47 posted on 09/15/2003 8:33:02 PM PDT by SamAdams76 (220.4 (-79.8) Earning back my youth one mile at a time)
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To: SamAdams76; carlo3b
Entrepreneurs are rushing to join the party. Atkins Nutritionals Inc., the food company started by Atkins before his death this year, sold $100 million worth of 90 low-carb products last year. Weight Watchers is introducing a low-carb pasta. Michelob hawks its new beer Ultra with the slogan, "Lose the carbs. Not the taste." (Michelob refuses to specify how the beer is selling but says it has "exceeded expectations.") And in California, New York, and, improbably, Texas, you can get freshly prepared Atkins meals delivered hot to your door. No one can specify the size of the Atkins market, but experts estimate it's at least $1 billion per year.

Lookin' good, Sam!

As the evidence continues to mount that low-carb eating is a healthy lifestyle more and more companies will jump on the bandwagon and begin marketing low-carb products. I predict within 6 months this market will explode.

48 posted on 09/15/2003 9:27:20 PM PDT by jellybean
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To: jellybean
There was a health food/vitamin store near me that recently switched gears to a "low-carb" emphasis. Signs on the storefront advertise "low-carb" and "no-carb" products and it seems to be doing a brisk business. I get my multi-vitamins and pysillium husks there (helps get more fiber in the diet).

I think it is a matter of time before restaurants come out with "normal-carb" menus. But already, most restaurants will cater to the normal-carb folks and I have never had a problem making substitutions for high-carb items. The waitstaff appear to have been trained on this way of eating and many of them eat that way themselves.

Anyway, time for my walk...

49 posted on 09/16/2003 2:14:43 AM PDT by SamAdams76 (220.4 (-79.8) Earning back my youth one mile at a time)
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To: SamAdams76
Enjoyed the before and after pics.

Regarding your comment about restuarants, yes the wait staff is aware of low carbers. I don't think management has figured out how to market to "us". Few menus have low carb features and you do have to ask for the veggies instead of potatoe or fries.

Outback is great for steaks. But more resturants need to have a menu just beyond meat and veggies. They need to have pasta made from the spaghetti squash, and other "almost" type dishes. I firmly believe that if a chain adopts 5 or six such items and markets themselves to low carbers, they will have lines to get in their doors.

50 posted on 09/20/2003 6:26:37 AM PDT by joesbucks
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To: SamAdams76
Bravo!
51 posted on 09/20/2003 6:33:00 AM PDT by krunkygirl
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To: SamAdams76
Congrats.
I have conversed with you many times over the years and had always pictured you as an older gent.
We are about the same age however.
Good luck.
52 posted on 09/20/2003 6:53:29 AM PDT by dtel (Texas Longhorn cattle for sale. We don't rent pigs.)
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To: joesbucks
You are right. I think a restaurant that adopted a low-carb menu would do bang-up business in no time. They wouldn't have to exclusively have a low-carb menu, just have a section of it dedicated to low-carb dishes.

I wonder why that has not been done already.

As for the "after" pictures above, those jeans I am wearing are already too big for me. I had to buy more last night. Also, I bought some L.L. Bean shirts for the first time - size medium. No more Big & Tall shops!

I've dropped over 10 pounds since those pictures were taken. I'll update my tagline tomorrow after my official weekly weighing.

53 posted on 09/20/2003 7:03:02 AM PDT by SamAdams76 (220.4 (-79.8) Earning back my youth one mile at a time)
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To: SamAdams76
When I first started walking in April...my shins and feet would ache like hell. It was very discouraging....I carry a MP3 player and I listen to lots of classical, opera, jazz, and other music I never give a chance to during the regular day.

Sam, you probably know this already, but just to add to the discussion.....

Walking doesn't require any special equipment, but the right shoes help tremendously. Take the time to find a pair that fits properly, don't just buy the first pair on sale. Also, even if you are just going to walk, sometimes running shoes feel better than "walking" shoes.

A small cassette player and some books-on-tape (available at most public libraries) give you a chance to do some "reading" you wouldn't otherwise find time for.

54 posted on 09/20/2003 7:05:35 AM PDT by Amelia
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To: Amelia
Amen to your comments. I'm off to the library now just to see what they have in the way of books on tape.
55 posted on 09/20/2003 7:11:24 AM PDT by joesbucks
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To: SamAdams76
I just spent the month of August in a small town in Viet Nam. I ate in peoples' homes and mostly in the tiny cafes that are everywhere. My impression of the local diet is that it is almost Atkins plus rice and I ate little rice. There is just too much else to eat. There must be a dozen different green vegetables that correspond to spinach and there are many different tree fruits and palm fruits. With the rising economic level there is much more meat in the various dishes now than 35 years ago when I was last in the country. For "snacks" I ate lots of fruits because everyone I met was curious to see if the foreigner would eat this or that. At a beginning weight of 155 pounds (5'10") I did not lose weight but by the end of the month I felt much healthier than I have felt since I was a young fellow. My knees gave me no trouble and I only slept a tad over 4 hours a night, waking without the "normal" grogginess and, yes, I felt I was thinking much more clearly than before. It helps, I guess, that I walked a lot as I had no wheels and after the first couple of days, no desire for wheels. I had forgotten what feeling GOOD was like.

If the amount of food available, i.e. its relative cheapness, were the determining factor in obesity then the Vietnamese would have the same problems with overweight that Americans do. Actually the population is heavier and taller than it was in 1969 but the only fat people I saw were government officials on TV and folks who eat in French restaurants in Sai Gon . Those seem to account for almost all of the incidence of high bood pressure and diabetes, too.

56 posted on 09/20/2003 7:18:44 AM PDT by ThanhPhero
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To: Amelia
but the right shoes help tremendously

In Viet Nam I walked 2 to over 10 miles every day in slide-on sandals.

57 posted on 09/20/2003 7:22:51 AM PDT by ThanhPhero
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To: SamAdams76
Another place to make cash is if someone would come up with ready to use foods low carb style. I have difficulty with taking lunch cause it's such a pain to pack a lunch. I like something hot, and usually end up going out and spending more than I want to eat lunch.
58 posted on 09/20/2003 7:24:55 AM PDT by joesbucks
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To: joesbucks
Another place to make cash is if someone would come up with ready to use foods low carb style. I have difficulty with taking lunch cause it's such a pain to pack a lunch. I like something hot, and usually end up going out and spending more than I want to eat lunch.

Kind of like low carb lean cuisine?

59 posted on 09/20/2003 7:29:28 AM PDT by CajunConservative
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To: CajunConservative
Exactly!

At one time I was eating Lean Cuisine and lost weight, but was so hungry all the time I was ready to eat my desk.

60 posted on 09/20/2003 7:30:38 AM PDT by joesbucks
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