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Real Southern Barbeque
Shucks.net ^ | 13 May 2003 | Brad Edmonds

Posted on 05/13/2003 4:44:31 PM PDT by stainlessbanner

The origins of term "barbeque" and the cooking methods associated with it are lost to history. The term itself may derive from a French term meaning something to the effect of "head to tail." Indeed, much barbeque involves cooking the entire animal. Some stories say the tradition in the US dates to the 1700s in Virginia and North Carolina, among colonists who perhaps learned the technique from American Indians or Caribbean aborigines. Given that the basic requisites are meat and fire, barbequing probably dates back about as far back as human use of fire.

As to the term "barbeque" today, different people take it different ways. There is "grilling" the meat is within several inches of the flames, such as with an hibachi, and you get grill marks; and "smoking" the meat is nowhere near the flames, and the hot smoke itself cooks the meat. According to 19th-century cowboy traditions, the meat should be cooked at around 200 degrees F., so any place near a flame would be too hot. The smoke flavor itself is part of the objective; keeping the meat tender and juicy is the rest (though I don t believe I ve ever eaten a juicy barbequed brisket).

For "barbeque," some people think smoking and some think grilling. It would be helpful if we could come up with some additional terms one for smoking and then slathering with barbeque sauce, one for smoking while basting with barbeque sauce, another for grilling while basting. Perhaps another for grilling and then basting. For now, when somebody sells or otherwise offers you something they claim has been barbequed, look around or ask how it was cooked. You re not being rude; cooking meat is an art, and the more you can learn about the flavors and textures that result from different techniques, the better. Most cooks and chefs are pleased to hear "how did you prepare this?"

At cookoffs, Texans often will smoke a piece of meat for six hours or more, up to six feet away from the flame. A more common technique is to have the meat directly over the flame, but a low flame, with the whole contraption enclosed to keep in the smoke. This is a more practical alternative to fabricating a grill that measures 3' by 5' by 7'.

There s pretty much one real regional difference in the South with regard to the meat. The vast majority of Dixie, upon hearing "barbeque," assumes pork; Texans don t. Rather, they often assume beef brisket. As to the wood used for smoking, there is disagreement, but the differences are found in every town and don t follow regional lines (except that some hardwoods were more available in some places than others in the past; today, you can get anything at a big grocery store). Hickory and mesquite are the most popular; applewood and "hardwood" are still seen here and there. The real disagreement is over whether the variety of wood matters much. There is much less disagreement that wood gives more smoke flavor than charcoal. There can be no disagreement that gas grills don t impart any smoke flavor.

There are more differences with regard to sauces. In Texas, barbequed meat is usually served with sauce on the side if there is any sauce at all. My favorite restaurant in College Station (I can t remember its name) served half a raw onion, a 4-oz. slice of cheddar cheese, a pickle, and 8 ounces of whatever meat you wanted, all on a piece of butcher paper. They gave you a knife (no fork) and a jar of their own barbeque sauce. The meat choices were pork tenderloin; beef that could pass for tenderloin; polish sausage; and I forget what else. Maybe chicken. The sauce I remember: Thick and fresh (hot from the pot, actually), but with very little flavor beyond tomato no pepper heat, no vinegar tang, no sweetness, no real spicy piquancy.

That s probably not typical of Texas barbeque sauces. A list of ingredients from one of the self-proclaimed "best" Texas barbeque sauces begins with "tomato concentrate, distilled vinegar, corn syrup, salt, spices ." That would be typical of barbeque sauces around the country: They ll have a tomato base, vinegar, sweetener, always a little garlic and onion, and some heat. They sometimes have a puckering tang from prepared (powdered) mustard or turmeric; and some have a little citrus flavoring of some sort. Mustard-based sauces show up in some places; they tend to be less sweet than the brownish sauces.

Those are the basic two, with the tomato-based sauce being the most popular. However, eastern North Carolina and Virginia have a tradition of their own: A watery, vinegar-based sauce with no tomato, sugar, or mustard flavor. I ordered a bottle and tasted it, and can report that it is similar to any "Louisiana" hot sauce (the ingredients of which should always be only vinegar, peppers, and salt). The North Carolina sauce added some other spices that gave it an extremely dry, almost bitter flavor, similar to a Thai pepper sauce. The particular one I sampled has won awards in North Carolina, but to me it seemed to be lacking something. The spices made the sauce seem to want for some sweetness, which impression does not accompany the taste of a Louisiana hot sauce.

If you haven t had the chance to sample any local Southern barbeque sauces, despair not: The flavor that best captures the typical sauce can be had for 99 cents just buy a bottle of Kraft barbeque sauce. That isn t shameful Kraft hires food experts to develop sauces for a living, and they measure proportions in parts per million. Kraft, by the way, sells about 50 varieties, and they re all inexpensive and good. Don t spend $4 on a bottle of sauce heck, Kraft makes the more expensive "gourmet" Bullseye sauces. They re not any better than the 99-cent stuff.

Most local Southern sauces taste similar to one Kraft variety or another. At one of the more famous barbeque joints in the Southeast, Dreamland (based in Tuscaloosa, Alabama), the sauce tastes exactly like the regular Kraft with a little sugar and heat added. That the good local sauces and Kraft sauces are similar means only that Southerners and food giants are arriving at a good flavor. And some of Kraft s 50 relatively new varieties probably are themselves imitations of, or inspired by, various local twists on the basic theme.

Indeed, just as government interventions lag behind the market s identification of needs and their solutions (e.g., in the early 20th century, the government decided to write child-labor laws after the economy began to generate enough wealth that children weren t any longer being sent to factories by their parents, and after special-interest groups decided they were outraged by a practice that was already going away), big corporations get "new" food-product ideas from foods people already have. The Oreo probably wasn t even an exception. They won t tell, though; I tried to get information out of Kraft, to no avail.

So, "barbeque," whatever the term means, isn t a Southern invention; surely it s as old as the hills. All we did was perfect it. The reasons why would be pure speculation, but they probably begin with our better climate, our love of hunting and fishing, our greater sociability, our slower-paced life, and our tasty pigs; and end with the only possible result of millions of people enjoying a craft that requires them to do all the work every time: Innovations happen randomly, frequently, sometimes serendipitously, but inexorably.

A note about perfection: Theoretically, there s no such thing. Practically, however, every time you barbeque something well and everybody loves it, it s perfect; and as tastes change over time, recipes and techniques will evolve to accommodate them, and it ll still be perfect.


TOPICS: Culture/Society; US: North Carolina; US: Virginia
KEYWORDS: bbq; dixie; dixielist; mustardsaucesucks; northcarolina; oldnorthstate; south
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To: stands2reason
Powder..patch..ball FIRE!

If it ain't pork it ain't barbecue and Memphis is the barbecue capitol of the world.

Take off them blinders pal...

By the way, there is venison, elk, bear, moose all by the way that can be VERY successfully barbecue'd and taste great. Some of the best pulled bbq I ever ate was beaver tail, and my 13 year old daughter swears by bison toungue over the open fire...

221 posted on 05/14/2003 6:22:30 AM PDT by BallandPowder (Will I vote for Pres Bush if he helps the Assault Weapons ban past sunset? I don't know yet.)
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To: stainlessbanner
I think that is a good idea. I toyed with the idea of meeting on the Blue Ridge Parkway for a summer picnic.
222 posted on 05/14/2003 6:24:31 AM PDT by AppyPappy (If You're Not A Part Of The Solution, There's Good Money To Be Made In Prolonging The Problem.)
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To: Constitution Day; AppyPappy; billbears; stainlessbanner; wardaddy
"Usually I go to Parker's. I do not really care for Bill's."

we've switched from Bill's to Parker's....I think Bill was getting a little too big....my wife goes nuts over Parkers corn sticks; uses 'em to sop up the pot liquor in the bottom of the collards bowl.....we've both committed shameful acts of gluttony at there....I drive non-stop from the other side of Washington DC to get to Parker's by lunch time...got that speedometer pegged at 80 all the way....call me obsessive, but I'm not the only one....I've seen people whip into the parking lot in a cloud of dust, jump out of their vehicle and actually break into a little trot heading for the front door....and who can blame 'em?....I say "git it while you can"....so much of the indigenous South is disappearing that places like Parkers are a treasure.....

Good luck to everyone!

Stonewalls

223 posted on 05/14/2003 6:26:36 AM PDT by STONEWALLS
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To: skull stomper
...Salmon, (Chinooks, reds, or silvers), am de bestest Bar-B-Q.

King salmon, smoked over alder !!!!

224 posted on 05/14/2003 6:36:54 AM PDT by jimt
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To: BallandPowder
" I ever ate was beaver tail,"

No, I ain't gonna go there, ain't gonna do it, wouldn't be prudent.
225 posted on 05/14/2003 6:50:33 AM PDT by Rebelbase
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To: Rebelbase
LMAO!!!
226 posted on 05/14/2003 6:55:26 AM PDT by Constitution Day
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To: stainlessbanner
Sounds good to me!
227 posted on 05/14/2003 6:56:15 AM PDT by Constitution Day
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To: Lee'sGhost
For your enlightenment, I draw your attention to Shealy's Bar-B-Que.

From their web site:

Shealy's Bar-B-Que house was established in 1969 and is located in Batesburg-Leesville, South Carolina. Shealy's is known nationwide as South Carolina's premiere Bar-B-Que Restaurant.

228 posted on 05/14/2003 6:56:34 AM PDT by aomagrat (IYAOYAS)
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To: Rebelbase
OMG - cole slaw ON your sandwich?

Huge Texan GAK here.

Cheers.
229 posted on 05/14/2003 6:58:58 AM PDT by lodwick
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To: everyone
Drunken Chicken gone wrong.


230 posted on 05/14/2003 7:04:32 AM PDT by lodwick
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To: STONEWALLS
I had to chuckle at your comments. "Shameful acts of gluttony" indeed!

Living just 30 mi. away, I only ate at Parker's once in a while until I took a job in Wilson in 1999.
After my wife got pregnant later that year, my co-workers & I started going there for lunch more than once a week.

I knew I had to give it up when I had gained 20 lbs... so I only go there once a month now. :(

I think Parker's is just about the best there is, though.
I have yet to go there for lunch and not see the place absolutely PACKED.
I always smile at the out-of-state license plates I see in the parking lot.

Have you checked to see if Parker's would ship BBQ to you? That is kind of a long drive.
My dad packs and ships it to my uncle in San Diego; he can't get enough of it.

Regards,
CD

231 posted on 05/14/2003 7:10:23 AM PDT by Constitution Day
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To: stainlessbanner
Mr. Edmonds loses any authority as a BBQ expert when he notes the similarity between Kraft sauce and good, local sauces in the south. That may pass muster in Alabama, but I prefer the vinegar-style sauces from the Carolinas. For my money, the best sauce you can find in a grocery store (if you're lucky) is Carolina Treet, made in Wilmington, N.C. Best BBQ restaurant? Country Cousins BBQ, located in Scranton, S.C., about 60 miles east of Myrtle Beach. Every time I visit South Carolina, I make a point of going to Scranton, and buying 5 pounds of pork BBQ.

BTW, outside of the Carolinas, I believe Memphis has the best BBQ. Corky's (the best known Memphis BBQ chain) is OK, but I think the Commissary in Germantown is much better. Sadly, the quality of BBQ drops when you go south of Memphis. Here in Mississippi, a number of BBQ joints insist on putting slaw on top of their sandwiches. There ought to be a law against that. Slaw is fine on the side, but never on the meat.....

232 posted on 05/14/2003 7:11:32 AM PDT by Spook86
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To: Phantom Lord
PL, you are getting to be "big time" in the BBQ world!

Not bad for a Damn Yankee! < snicker >

233 posted on 05/14/2003 7:11:50 AM PDT by Constitution Day
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To: Constitution Day; AppyPappy
I lived in Wilson 32 years ago and we thought Parkers was wonderful. I still remember the food servers ran all the time. The sides I remember were boiled potatos. cole slaw and corn sticks.

Now I want to go back.
234 posted on 05/14/2003 7:12:59 AM PDT by goosie (Eastern NC bar-b-que is the best.)
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To: 1L
Wal-Mart also sells New Braunfels grills and smokers....
235 posted on 05/14/2003 7:14:29 AM PDT by Spook86
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To: Judith Anne
Thank you for the recipe. My husband and I (we live in the Philly suburbs) went to Roanoke VA over Christmas and tried out Tanks, a new bbq restaurant. Didn't care much for the quality of the meat, but absolutely loved the sauce. We've wanted to learn to make our own since it is non-existent in our neck of the woods.
236 posted on 05/14/2003 7:15:18 AM PDT by twigs
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To: goosie
They still do run!

I've been eating there for years and it still looks & tastes the same. You should go back again.

237 posted on 05/14/2003 7:16:00 AM PDT by Constitution Day
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To: russdawg
Sounds good to me!
We make our own when cooking a pig, but for bbq chicken we buy George's Barbecue Sauce, made in Nashville, NC.
If you are interested, the phone number at the top of that link is where you can buy it.
238 posted on 05/14/2003 7:20:44 AM PDT by Constitution Day
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To: Lee'sGhost
Any other response would simply be nuts.

The fact is that "Texas Barbecue" originated in Texas. God knows where your version came from, but you should enjoy it all you want in your neck-of-the-woods.

What this writer misses, what all of these arguments miss, is that Kraft nor Arby's have any concept of regional authenticity, and tend toward bland and homogenous crap. The only GOOD ANYTHING is the LOCAL version. All else is crap no matter where you are.

That's why I think North-East-South-whatever Carolina BBQ is crap, and you think Texas BBQ is not the best, and we are both correct from a regional perspective!

And finally, this author is still an idiot.

239 posted on 05/14/2003 7:50:02 AM PDT by sam_paine
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To: Constitution Day
"I always smile at the out-of-state license plates I see in the parking lot."....ain't that the truth!....same with King's BBQ in Petersburg,VA....they are on Crater Road....literally down the road from where the Crater blew and have hung some nice WBTS prints....makes me feel good to eat BBQ with Lee and Jackson framed on the wall....

"Have you checked to see if Parker's would ship BBQ to you?"..I'll have to see about that....we stop by Parker's twice a year when we go down to my mother-in-law's beach house below Wilmington....we pack a cooler to fill our freezer when we get home. Regards, Stonewalls

240 posted on 05/14/2003 7:51:56 AM PDT by STONEWALLS
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