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Real Southern Barbeque
Shucks.net ^ | 13 May 2003 | Brad Edmonds

Posted on 05/13/2003 4:44:31 PM PDT by stainlessbanner

The origins of term "barbeque" and the cooking methods associated with it are lost to history. The term itself may derive from a French term meaning something to the effect of "head to tail." Indeed, much barbeque involves cooking the entire animal. Some stories say the tradition in the US dates to the 1700s in Virginia and North Carolina, among colonists who perhaps learned the technique from American Indians or Caribbean aborigines. Given that the basic requisites are meat and fire, barbequing probably dates back about as far back as human use of fire.

As to the term "barbeque" today, different people take it different ways. There is "grilling" the meat is within several inches of the flames, such as with an hibachi, and you get grill marks; and "smoking" the meat is nowhere near the flames, and the hot smoke itself cooks the meat. According to 19th-century cowboy traditions, the meat should be cooked at around 200 degrees F., so any place near a flame would be too hot. The smoke flavor itself is part of the objective; keeping the meat tender and juicy is the rest (though I don t believe I ve ever eaten a juicy barbequed brisket).

For "barbeque," some people think smoking and some think grilling. It would be helpful if we could come up with some additional terms one for smoking and then slathering with barbeque sauce, one for smoking while basting with barbeque sauce, another for grilling while basting. Perhaps another for grilling and then basting. For now, when somebody sells or otherwise offers you something they claim has been barbequed, look around or ask how it was cooked. You re not being rude; cooking meat is an art, and the more you can learn about the flavors and textures that result from different techniques, the better. Most cooks and chefs are pleased to hear "how did you prepare this?"

At cookoffs, Texans often will smoke a piece of meat for six hours or more, up to six feet away from the flame. A more common technique is to have the meat directly over the flame, but a low flame, with the whole contraption enclosed to keep in the smoke. This is a more practical alternative to fabricating a grill that measures 3' by 5' by 7'.

There s pretty much one real regional difference in the South with regard to the meat. The vast majority of Dixie, upon hearing "barbeque," assumes pork; Texans don t. Rather, they often assume beef brisket. As to the wood used for smoking, there is disagreement, but the differences are found in every town and don t follow regional lines (except that some hardwoods were more available in some places than others in the past; today, you can get anything at a big grocery store). Hickory and mesquite are the most popular; applewood and "hardwood" are still seen here and there. The real disagreement is over whether the variety of wood matters much. There is much less disagreement that wood gives more smoke flavor than charcoal. There can be no disagreement that gas grills don t impart any smoke flavor.

There are more differences with regard to sauces. In Texas, barbequed meat is usually served with sauce on the side if there is any sauce at all. My favorite restaurant in College Station (I can t remember its name) served half a raw onion, a 4-oz. slice of cheddar cheese, a pickle, and 8 ounces of whatever meat you wanted, all on a piece of butcher paper. They gave you a knife (no fork) and a jar of their own barbeque sauce. The meat choices were pork tenderloin; beef that could pass for tenderloin; polish sausage; and I forget what else. Maybe chicken. The sauce I remember: Thick and fresh (hot from the pot, actually), but with very little flavor beyond tomato no pepper heat, no vinegar tang, no sweetness, no real spicy piquancy.

That s probably not typical of Texas barbeque sauces. A list of ingredients from one of the self-proclaimed "best" Texas barbeque sauces begins with "tomato concentrate, distilled vinegar, corn syrup, salt, spices ." That would be typical of barbeque sauces around the country: They ll have a tomato base, vinegar, sweetener, always a little garlic and onion, and some heat. They sometimes have a puckering tang from prepared (powdered) mustard or turmeric; and some have a little citrus flavoring of some sort. Mustard-based sauces show up in some places; they tend to be less sweet than the brownish sauces.

Those are the basic two, with the tomato-based sauce being the most popular. However, eastern North Carolina and Virginia have a tradition of their own: A watery, vinegar-based sauce with no tomato, sugar, or mustard flavor. I ordered a bottle and tasted it, and can report that it is similar to any "Louisiana" hot sauce (the ingredients of which should always be only vinegar, peppers, and salt). The North Carolina sauce added some other spices that gave it an extremely dry, almost bitter flavor, similar to a Thai pepper sauce. The particular one I sampled has won awards in North Carolina, but to me it seemed to be lacking something. The spices made the sauce seem to want for some sweetness, which impression does not accompany the taste of a Louisiana hot sauce.

If you haven t had the chance to sample any local Southern barbeque sauces, despair not: The flavor that best captures the typical sauce can be had for 99 cents just buy a bottle of Kraft barbeque sauce. That isn t shameful Kraft hires food experts to develop sauces for a living, and they measure proportions in parts per million. Kraft, by the way, sells about 50 varieties, and they re all inexpensive and good. Don t spend $4 on a bottle of sauce heck, Kraft makes the more expensive "gourmet" Bullseye sauces. They re not any better than the 99-cent stuff.

Most local Southern sauces taste similar to one Kraft variety or another. At one of the more famous barbeque joints in the Southeast, Dreamland (based in Tuscaloosa, Alabama), the sauce tastes exactly like the regular Kraft with a little sugar and heat added. That the good local sauces and Kraft sauces are similar means only that Southerners and food giants are arriving at a good flavor. And some of Kraft s 50 relatively new varieties probably are themselves imitations of, or inspired by, various local twists on the basic theme.

Indeed, just as government interventions lag behind the market s identification of needs and their solutions (e.g., in the early 20th century, the government decided to write child-labor laws after the economy began to generate enough wealth that children weren t any longer being sent to factories by their parents, and after special-interest groups decided they were outraged by a practice that was already going away), big corporations get "new" food-product ideas from foods people already have. The Oreo probably wasn t even an exception. They won t tell, though; I tried to get information out of Kraft, to no avail.

So, "barbeque," whatever the term means, isn t a Southern invention; surely it s as old as the hills. All we did was perfect it. The reasons why would be pure speculation, but they probably begin with our better climate, our love of hunting and fishing, our greater sociability, our slower-paced life, and our tasty pigs; and end with the only possible result of millions of people enjoying a craft that requires them to do all the work every time: Innovations happen randomly, frequently, sometimes serendipitously, but inexorably.

A note about perfection: Theoretically, there s no such thing. Practically, however, every time you barbeque something well and everybody loves it, it s perfect; and as tastes change over time, recipes and techniques will evolve to accommodate them, and it ll still be perfect.


TOPICS: Culture/Society; US: North Carolina; US: Virginia
KEYWORDS: bbq; dixie; dixielist; mustardsaucesucks; northcarolina; oldnorthstate; south
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To: LasVegasMac
your instructions are on post #116...let me know when you're ready and I'll show you how to barbecue next LOL...
121 posted on 05/13/2003 7:03:04 PM PDT by kellynla ("C" 1/5 1st Mar Div Viet Nam '69 & '70 Semper Fi)
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To: stainlessbanner
Bookmark bump!
122 posted on 05/13/2003 7:04:42 PM PDT by facedown (Armed in the Heartland)
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To: AGreatPer
Thanks for the recipe.

I'm working on pulled mussels, next.

123 posted on 05/13/2003 7:06:32 PM PDT by Focault's Pendulum (I'm changing my tag line....somebody hand that wench....no...the blonde.)
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To: snopercod
Anyone who thinks that Kraft BBQ sauces are good could use a little more exposure. Here are some suggestions to wake up your taste buds:

http://www.mauricesbbq.com/a_word_from_maurice.htm - Maurice's Carolina Gold has been an institution in South Carolina for decades. It is great on chicken and pork. Maurice Bessingers original bbq pit is still open and cooking in West Columbia, SC. They still cook their meat over an open fire and the wood is stacked up outside the restaurant to prove it!

http://www.bonesuckin.com/ - Bone Sucking Sauce is a North Carolina company that is nothing like traditional NC vinegar and pepper sauce. This stuff is awesome on ribs.

http://www.zy-sauce.com/ - You've really got to try this stuff. Zy sauce is available in several varieties. They have sauce for beef, pork, chicken, and a really tantalizing sauce for fish! They sauce was invented by David Zey. I worked with David for years. He used to live in Charleston where he was always trying to come up with the best recipe for bbq sauce. Our company moved us to Raleigh and unfortunately David was caught up in a downsizing. He didn't have to worry about work because he had finally perfected his recipe. After a few demonstrations and flea-markets and fairs he got more orders than he can keep up with! Visit the site and give it try.

I guarantee after you try a few of these selections you will never go back to a Kraft bbq sauce.

PS> Since we are one the subject of Kraft products, you may want to try Dukes Mayonnaise if you also use the Kraft excuse for mayonnaise!
124 posted on 05/13/2003 7:07:21 PM PDT by USP45
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To: kellynla
No I got it right! Now trivia time

You're right ! I meant to address that note
to the both of you .I'll take a pass on the trivia Q
but as to the best BBQ ....
I had some Great Ribs at the Rendevouz Downtown,
and the other Rendevous out close to the airport
had some great pulled BBQ !

......THUNDER.....

125 posted on 05/13/2003 7:15:49 PM PDT by THUNDER ROAD
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To: okie01
Now I am truly laughting my ass off -

Shouldda gone to Taco Bell...


No sheet! Goodness, been there done that.

That is so classic and so true.

After a while, we need to quickly get back to our roots.

Thanks for posting your joys afield. That is great.
126 posted on 05/13/2003 7:17:19 PM PDT by lodwick
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To: Judith Anne
Sounds Krafty to me!!!
127 posted on 05/13/2003 7:17:57 PM PDT by Ursus arctos horribilis ("It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees!" Emiliano Zapata 1879-1919)
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To: kellynla
You're killing me.

I'm retired USAF - been around this world several times.

We did have to employ an interpreter, though, the first time we went - "deep south".

Oh yes, familiar with the franchise called "Memphis BBQ". They are not "outside" of Las Vegas - I think they have about 8 - 10 outlets here. Stand alone stores, inside of casino's, etc.

I have eaten there 4 times - in the 20 years I've been in this town. Not bad, actually - for the "BBQ for the masses" type food.

My last visit, recently, impressed me. Not the pork sandwich (ain't up to my standards!) - the red rice and beans. Trying to perfect at the house. They were tasty!

Thanks for the plans on the barrel.

This is a great thread.

LVM

128 posted on 05/13/2003 7:19:16 PM PDT by LasVegasMac
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To: okie01
Now jes' you wait a guldurn minute there...I am in the New Jersey hills and I barbecue 12 months of the year...during the winter we call it "Chillin' and Grillin."

My personal record is 6 degrees Fahrenheit (without the wind chill) for cold and 2.75 feet of snow for depth (not at the same time).

And yes--my wife thinks I'm crazy, but my 3 daughters just smile.

Oh...one more thing: I have had ribs at the Rendevous (I dated a young lady a while back who was from West Memphis AR) and they were the best ever.

129 posted on 05/13/2003 7:28:55 PM PDT by Pharmboy (.Dems lie 'cause they have to.)
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To: stainlessbanner
Pierce's BBQ, off I-64, midway between Richmond, VA, and Norfolk, VA.

Defines the genre.

130 posted on 05/13/2003 7:29:25 PM PDT by patton (I wish we could all look at the evil of abortion with the pure, honest heart of a child.)
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To: lodwick
If anyone is using a cooker with one of those lame, Cold, Warm, Hot type thermometers - please, replace it immediately with a "real" gauge of the heat that is being generated.

You are on the right path, young padawon.

Unfortunately, there is a difference - as much as 20 - 40 degrees, or larger depending on the the type of your grill - between where your cooking object sits (on the cooking grate) and the probe of your thermometer (usually way above the cooking grate).

The "final" solution is an external temp probe stuck into the "cooking object". Not expensive - $20 - $40, depends on what you want - but very much worth the price. The brand name of Polder is a good start.

No question, no doubt as to what the actual temp of your meal is.

LVM

131 posted on 05/13/2003 7:31:03 PM PDT by LasVegasMac
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To: LasVegasMac
Yea, one of my many trips to Vegas I met the Memphis restaurant in Vegas owners...they wanted some tips...I was polite and told them it was good BBQ...eventhough I was not impressed...I mean the owners are YANKEES for pete's sake ROFLMAO...and the cooks were Mexicans LOL...trying to cook Memphis barbeque...it was almost sacrilegious calling the restaurant MEMPHIS!
132 posted on 05/13/2003 7:32:55 PM PDT by kellynla ("C" 1/5 1st Mar Div Viet Nam '69 & '70 Semper Fi)
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To: AGreatPer
I love shrimp and your recipe sounds mighty tasty.

Thanks for posting.

LVM

133 posted on 05/13/2003 7:33:37 PM PDT by LasVegasMac
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To: kellynla
Relax...it's all in good fun...if you want to fight go kick the dog cause I am having too much fun with this!

Uhmm, you've obviously never seen me in a fight -- verbal or otherwise -- if you think what I wrote indicated I wanted to fight.

Brisket? That' shoe leather.

Well, not the way I cook it, and not the way most real BBQ shacks cook it. But your comment is sort of the point: you HAVE to smoke brisket, otherwise, no one would eat it. You don't have to smoke pork for it to be good. Thus to say the only real BBQ if pork -- when you don't even have to BBQ it -- is not only wrong, it is sort of idiotic. I can understand someone saying they like only pork BBQ. But to say it is the only real BBQ defies the definition of BBQ.

Pork short ribs barbecued correctly the meat falls off the bone and you eat with a spoon where it melts in your mouth.

I agree, and I can smoke you some of the best ribs you've had -- unless you want wet ribs. I can do wet ribs, but I can't guarantee their quality. Dry is where it is at, then pour a jar or so of sauce on there.

BTW if they don't serve pork you're not eating the best. Immediately get up and leave!

I can take you to no less than 2 dozen BBQ shacks where, after eating beef there, you will forget what pork is.

134 posted on 05/13/2003 7:38:11 PM PDT by 1L
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To: lodwick
You can bbq your tennis shoes for crying out loud.

I'll let you try this and tell me how they came out.

135 posted on 05/13/2003 7:39:22 PM PDT by 1L
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To: Oberon
We BBQ a lot here in California...

that would after they get permmision from the the local environmental nazi control board to emit "X" amount of pollution into the air.

LVM

136 posted on 05/13/2003 7:42:56 PM PDT by LasVegasMac
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To: AGreatPer
I'll have to try your 'frimp! Thanks for the recipe.
137 posted on 05/13/2003 7:43:07 PM PDT by stainlessbanner
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To: Pharmboy
"Oh...one more thing: I have had ribs at the Rendevous...and they were the best ever."

The best ribs ever were at Autry's Barbecue in Oak Cliff, 'cross the river from Dallas, TX. But, alas, Autry's is closed. Forever.

That leaves my place. And it ain't in Memphis. It's on Contrary Creek, in Granbury, TX. And, like you, neither wind, nor rain, nor snow, nor dark of night can stay me from my appointed rounds with the smoker...

138 posted on 05/13/2003 7:43:16 PM PDT by okie01 (The Mainstream Media: IGNORANCE ON PARADE.)
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To: stainlessbanner
Am I the only one who thinks the author hasn't had much southern BBQ? Southern BBQ does *not* resemble Kraft BBQ sauce.

He also seems to have missed the whole concept of dry rubs. The best BBQ joints serve a dry rubbed, smoked pork rib (or beef ribs in TX) often with the sauce on the side.

Vinegar, molassas, spice based sauce is popular in the south. Add tomato and remove a little mustard and you are in St. Louis. I don't recall ever getting a sauce that tasted like "Louisiana Hot Sauce".

And... For God's sake... Bourbon! Or Southern Comfort! Or Meyers Rum! You have to mix in some kind of booze in your sauce.

And what about mops? It's no wonder he's never had a piece of juicy BBQ.

He doesn't seem to recognize pulled pork butt vs. St. Louis ribs vs. baby back ribs vs. beef ribs vs. sliced smoked pork etc.

Somebody needs to teach this guy about BBQ!

Oh yeah. Grilled meat is *not* BBQ. It is grilled.
139 posted on 05/13/2003 7:44:51 PM PDT by Poser
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To: stainlessbanner
Hungry?

Yep, I am NOW! :)

140 posted on 05/13/2003 7:54:28 PM PDT by LibKill (MOAB, the greatest advance in Foreign Relations since the cat-o'-nine-tails!)
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