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The thrill of the grill
marin county, ca ^ | 21 May 2003 | Debra Hale-Shelton

Posted on 05/21/2003 12:17:26 PM PDT by stainlessbanner

GET OUT YOUR apron, dig out Dad's favorite barbecue recipe and fire up the grill. Grilling season is here.

Whether you cook with charcoal, gas or a bit of both, guests will crowd around your picnic table if you follow a few simple grilling tips, not to mention recipes, from some top chefs and cookbook authors.

To many, Dad's barbecued ribs, whether dry or wet, spicy or mild, are every bit as American as Mom's apple pie. Indeed, Abraham Lincoln's parents celebrated their wedding with a barbecue, and George Washington loved to go to barbecues and even wrote about them in his diary, according to Steven Raichlen, author of "How to Grill," "The Barbecue! Bible" and his newest, "BBQ USA" (Workman, 2003, $19.95 paperback).

"Barbecue is very deeply imbedded in our national psyche and has been since even before we were a nation," says Raichlen, speaking by phone from his home in Martha's Vineyard, Mass. He expects to be grilling lobster, corn-on-the-cob and peaches or pineapple for Memorial Day there - not to mention a smoked potato salad.

From ribs to lobster, corn-on-the-cob to bread pudding, grilling can be an innovative yet easy way to cook.

Food Network chef and cookbook author Gale Gand, for example, enjoys grilling fruit on a propane grill on her screened-in porch outside Chicago. Grilling, she saiys in a phone interview from New York, "really intensifies the sweetness without adding extra sugar. The hotter the grill, the more caramelization you'll get" when cooking fruit, says Gand.

Gand, co-owner of Tru restaurant in Chicago, takes part in neighborhood grilling parties and believes grilling holds "the same emotional tie as a hearth or fireplace." People seem to gather around a grill "as if some kind of magic or alchemy is going on," she says.

"You hear that crackling sound of the flames, and you know something great is about to happen," adds Gand, who was planning to try grilled crawfish for Memorial Day.

Advice from Gand: Cooks should be sure to clean the grill once a year and keep an extra tank of propane handy so they won't run out of fuel while cooking dinner.

Raichlen has about 30 grills altogether, between his two homes, one in Massachusetts and one in Florida.

In his household, "Everything from the appetizer to dessert tends to get cooked on the grill," he says. "We allow for the occasional green salad or steamed fiddlehead ferns, however."

Raichlen advises home chefs to keep their grills hot, clean and well-oiled. "Food is less likely to stick to a hot grill grate, and you'll get better grill marks," he says.

To clean a grill, Raichlen recommends using a stiff wire brush or crumpled aluminum foil. He suggests oiling the grate before turning on the grill.

"To do that, you take a paper towel, fold it into a little pad, then dip it into a bowl of vegetable oil and rub it across the bars of the grate."

Rick Bayless, chef-owner of Chicago's highly rated Frontera Grill and Topolobampo restaurants, cookbook author and host of the PBS-TV series "Mexico: One Plate at a Time," calls himself "an inveterate barbecuer."

Bayless puts his charcoal and gas grills to good use every February when he invites friends over for a huge barbecue just to remind them "summer is going to come."

Bayless, whose parents ran Hickory House, a barbecue restaurant in Oklahoma City, says he grew up on the flavors of grilled and smoked meat.

"I don't like charcoal. I like to burn logs," he says. Bayless says it's fun to play around with other woods, "But, man, when I get a hankering for that Oklahoma stuff, it's always hickory."

One of his favorite grilled foods is pizza, particularly one topped with melted goat cheese and bacon. And, of course, he likes to slow-cook pork ribs in the middle of his grill, with the coals banked on either side.

Bayless thinks a common grilling mistake is that people get their fire too hot, causing food to cook too quickly on the outside before it's done on the inside. In fact, Raichlen suggests setting up three grill zones: hot, medium and cool. Then if something is cooking too fast, you can quickly move it to the cool zone.

Bayless also suggests brushing or spraying oil on the food rather than on the grill unless the grate is cast iron.

Cookbook author Rick Tramonto, Gand's partner at Tru, also loves to grill, in fact "almost every night in the summer."

Tramonto plans to grill for about 12 family members on Memorial Day, when he'll also celebrate his 40th birthday (he explains the birthday is actually May 30).

"We're hoping to do some half-lobsters, some shrimp, steaks and some lamb chops," he says. "We'll do corn on the cob. I even do baked potatoes on the grill."

Tramonto believes the most common grilling mistake people make is turning the food too soon. "People don't let stuff cook; they can't just start flipping. They don't let it develop a crust. They don't let it develop a good sear, which seals in all the juices and all the flavor," he says.

Tramonto, who owns one gas and one charcoal grill, says he enjoys grilling because of the great flavor and "the whole ambiance of being outside and cooking outside."

He's adventuresome, too. He says he loves grilling frog legs, he cooks outdoors even when it snows, and hopes others will grill more, too. "It brings family together; it brings friends together; it's a great social setting."

He's particularly fond of his Tramonto Potato Wedges. He says one potato should serve two people. For each potato, this informal recipe calls for a half cup of olive oil, two cloves of minced garlic, salt, pepper and cayenne pepper to taste, and one teaspoon of Dijon mustard.

Wrap each potato in aluminum foil and bake it in a 400 F oven for 45 minutes to an hour. Let it cool about an hour. Make a marinade of the olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper and cayenne pepper. Quarter the potato into wedges, then cut each wedge in half before dressing the potato with the mixture. Allow the potato to marinate about 10 minutes, then grill on both sides for about 3 minutes each side.

Recipes

Rick Bayless, Chicago chef, cookbook author and TV food-show host, recently shared his recipe for barbecued ribs, which serve six.

Barbecued Ribs

3 large slabs (about 5 pounds total) baby back ribs, OR 2 medium to medium-small slabs (about 5 pounds total) spare ribs

1/3 cup barbecue spice

About 2 cups hickory wood chips

About 1 1/4 cup barbecue sauce

Lay ribs on baking sheet. Sprinkle both sides evenly with spice. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 5 hours or up to one day.

One hour before cooking, place wood chips in bowl and cover with water.

About a half hour before cooking, heat half the burners on one side of the gas grill on high. (If your grill has three burners, heat two.)

To set up the grill, pour 1 inch of water into a baking pan (a 13-by-9-inch pan works well) and set over hot part of grill, the lighted burners. Drain wood chips. Wrap in foil. Poke six holes in foil, and set next to water pan directly over high heat.

When wood chips begin to smoke, lay ribs curved-side up over cooler part of grill (unlighted burner). Use a rib rack to stand up ribs when doubling or tripling the recipe so all will fit. Close grill. Turn temperature to medium. Cook 1 1/4 hours for baby back ribs, 2 for spare ribs, until beautifully reddish-brown and meat is tender when tested with fork. If grill has thermometer, it should stay about 325 F during cooking. Brush ribs with barbecue sauce, close grill and cook 10 minutes longer.

To serve ribs: Remove ribs to cutting board. With large knife, cut between bones. Serve with remaining barbecue sauce. Heat barbecue sauce in microwave, so it does not cool off the ribs.

Makes 6 servings.

Recipe from Rick Bayless.

Bayless says the following is the barbecue sauce recipe from his parents' Hickory House restaurant in Oklahoma City.

Hickory House Barbecue Sauce

2 garlic cloves

1 cup ketchup

1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons vinegar, preferably the smaller amount

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1/3 cup brown sugar, well packed into cup

1/2 to 1 teaspoon barbecue spice, store-bought or homemade (you can substitute chili powder)

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Salt, if necessary

Peel garlic cloves and press through garlic press into small saucepan. Add 3/4 cup water and all remaining ingredients. Gently simmer over medium-low heat for 30 minutes. The sauce is then ready to use.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Recipe from Rick Bayless.

lll

Chef Gale Gand, co-owner of Tru restaurant in Chicago, created the following recipe.

Note: Gand advises that you keep the clams chilled until you are ready to clean them.

Grilled Clams With Drawn Garlic Butter

5-pound sack cherry stone clams

2 sticks of unsalted butter

4 cloves garlic, crushed

Rinse the clams in the sink under cold, runny water and scrub with a vegetable brush if needed then drain. Keep chilled till ready to grill.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a saucepan, adding the crushed garlic. Heat the butter a little hotter over medium heat to clarify it. Once the butter is totally melted, skim the foam (salts) from the top. Ladle out just the clear yellow butter fat, leaving the garlic and milky dairy liquid and water in the bottom. Keep this clear butter warm.

When you're ready to serve, just pour the clams onto the grill, spread them out on the grates and close the lid. In about 2 to 4 minutes, they'll open up and they're done. Serve on a big platter with small clam forks; drizzle a bit of the butter over, and serve with more drawn butter on the side to dip.

Makes about 20 servings.

Recipe from Gale Gand.


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To: shotgun
One thing about gassing vs the indirect charcoal method is I can walk away for 30 minutes instead of "baby sitting the grill" so the food doesn't burn.

Isn't that the truth.
The best BBQ grill I ever had was one I made out of a 30 gal. drum. Mounted it on its side on a 2" pipe sunk in the ground. I cut it in half and used dimond mesh for the grill. I could get it really hot, slap some chicken on and close the top. No flareups because there wasn't enough oxygen to support a flame. Similar to a Weber Kettle. Worked great and was fast.

Gas grilling requires re-learning cooking. Charcoal is best if you have the time. But I admit to being a gasser now.

81 posted on 05/21/2003 1:44:12 PM PDT by Vinnie
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To: Vinnie
It is easy to use indirect heat when cooking on a gas grill. I just light the back burner, turn to low, and put the food over the front burner.
82 posted on 05/21/2003 1:46:28 PM PDT by Conservababe
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To: Constitution Day
Mrs. CD planted some rosemary in her herb garden this year so we will try it. We love cooking with rosemary.

Roast corn-on-the-cob to die for:

Peel back husks, remove silk from corn ears.
Rub corn ears with butter, then sprinkle with a pinch each of rosemary, marjoram, salt, and pepper (I substitute spicy season-salt for the salt and pepper).
Re-wrap the husks around the corn ears, secure each corn ear with a strip of foil near the small end (alternately, remove husks and completely wrap each ear in foil).
Place corn ears on a hot grill for 5 minutes, rotate ears 1/3 turn. Grill for 5 more minutes, rotate 1/3 turn. Grill for 5 more minutes. Done!

Smells wonderful while they're grillin', and tastes incredible! Like you think roast corn ought to taste!

NOTE: The left-over foil can be used to make a nifty hat that not only looks good, but repels Government mind-control beams emanating from jet contrails!

83 posted on 05/21/2003 1:47:10 PM PDT by Ignatz (Scribe of the Unwritten Law)
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To: Conservababe
I used to be a hard-core charcoal/wood griller. Then I broke down and got a gas grill. They cannot be beat for the speed (great for grilling after work instead of just weekends) and flexibility. Flavor can be made up for with a smoker box, and I exclusively use my gas grill now.
84 posted on 05/21/2003 1:48:47 PM PDT by ThinkingMan (How's my posting? Call 1-800-UR-RIGHT)
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To: Conservababe
This is the first time I have seen the "gassers vs the coalers".

LOL! I just prefer charcoal.
I'll be back later... I am going home to grill some steaks before it rains.

85 posted on 05/21/2003 1:48:50 PM PDT by Constitution Day (Nasty Little Cliqueâ„¢)
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To: stainlessbanner
Big Fat Rib Bump for later.

FMCDH

86 posted on 05/21/2003 1:49:07 PM PDT by nothingnew
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To: Vinnie
But I admit to being a gasser now.

Yep, so do I.

Especially after consuming prodigious amounts of beer, mesquite brisket, beerbutt chicken, my wifes deviled eggs, slaw and heavenly potato salad.

(The durn grilled corn don't help none, either.)

87 posted on 05/21/2003 1:49:11 PM PDT by OldSmaj
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To: Beacon Falls
BBQ ping/bump/blimp.

FMCDH

88 posted on 05/21/2003 1:52:07 PM PDT by nothingnew
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To: OldSmaj
beerbutt chicken

Yeah, I tried that beerbutt chicken, but everytime I took a swig the doggone chicken neck stuck me right on the bridge of my nose. (g)

89 posted on 05/21/2003 1:55:05 PM PDT by Vinnie
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To: carlo3b
Ping to FR's resident chef...
90 posted on 05/21/2003 1:56:42 PM PDT by jellybean (Not a member of the wet panties brigade)
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To: Eric in the Ozarks
I get mine from First Tenn Bank - I'm an investment client of theirs. I've not tried the net though.
91 posted on 05/21/2003 1:56:42 PM PDT by familyofman
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To: stainlessbanner
This place,


92 posted on 05/21/2003 2:02:39 PM PDT by scab4faa (Perfection is my direction! *Looks at a map* I think I'm going the wrong way...)
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To: stainlessbanner
Bayless also suggests brushing or spraying oil on the food rather than on the grill unless the grate is cast iron.

If you season the grill before the first use and after each thorough cleaning (like if you insist on using soap and water rather than the "wire brush/burning the gunk off the grids" method), a little oil on food does prevent it from sticking. It can be a quick and easy way to season the food, too.

One of my favorite ways to fix pork steaks is to sauté a little garlic in olive oil, which creates an infused oil. Rub a little of the oil on each side of the pork steak. Grill over the high heat area of your grill long enough to sear the meat (which improves the flavor because of the caramelization, btw, but does not sear in any juices); if the steaks need to grill a bit longer, move to a cooler section of the grill so they don't dry out. IMO, the pork steaks don't need any additional seasoning when you grill them this way. Not even any salt! (I just tried Spectrum Naturals Garlic-Olive Oil Spray and it's delicious! Used it to oven-roast some veggies yesterday. I plan to try it on pork asap.)

This method works better for fattier pork steaks than it does leaner pork chops or loin. Most of the fat melts away anyhow, so it's not left behind as calories in the meat. However, as that drips its way through the grids and onto the coals, it does its marvelous magic of enhancing the flavor.

FYI: I'm the author of Lazy About Grilling.
93 posted on 05/21/2003 2:16:15 PM PDT by Fawnn (I think therefore I'm halfway there....)
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To: Constitution Day
Mrs. CD planted some rosemary in her herb garden this year so we will try it. We love cooking with rosemary.

Then you'll love this recipe if you sprinkle some fresh rosemary on the chicken and throw a sprig or two of rosemary on the coals to create a little bit of rosemary smoke!
94 posted on 05/21/2003 2:30:12 PM PDT by Fawnn (I think therefore I'm halfway there....)
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To: Conservababe
Anyone on a salt-restricted diet should try this:

Soak the corn (in the husks) in plain old ordinary no-salt-added water. THEN:

Once it's grilled, season the corn with fresh lime juice and freshly ground black pepper!

You've got to try this to believe it! No oil needed to cut the acidity of the lime juice (as in the usual "3 parts oil/1 part juice or vinegar" vinaigrette ratio). It brings out the sweetness of the corn.

Use bottled water if you're on city water in anything you cook, btw. You'll be amazed at how much better the taste is without that nasty chlorine messin' up the flavor.
95 posted on 05/21/2003 2:42:59 PM PDT by Fawnn (I think therefore I'm halfway there....)
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To: Fawnn
Bumped and bookmarked for the recipes.

I'm a gasser but what's better than smoke?

96 posted on 05/21/2003 3:10:46 PM PDT by Wingy
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To: Conservababe
This is the first time I have seen the "gassers vs the coalers".

Gas, coal or pit, each has its place and a lot depends on how much time you've got. While I love real BBQ, I don't have the setup or many days with 14 hours to spend standing watch over it. I do have both a charcoal and gas grill and use them for different purposes. When you use a gas grill, a lot more depends on quality of the cut of meat, the marinades, sauces and seasonings. Remove the fine smokey quality of indirect, low and slow cooking, and you are more dependant on the very things a BBQ purist doesn't really need.

97 posted on 05/21/2003 3:10:56 PM PDT by Ol' Sox
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To: CyberCowboy777
I use a grill, but with real charcoal, preferably mosquite.
98 posted on 05/21/2003 6:46:53 PM PDT by Lee'sGhost (Crom!)
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To: Constitution Day
"Oh Lordy. Now she's going to think YOU'RE a BBQ purist too! :)"

Then she would be right. If you want to cook with gas, why bother with a grill? You can do that inside. NOTHING beats real charcoal for flavor.
99 posted on 05/21/2003 6:48:54 PM PDT by Lee'sGhost (Crom!)
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To: realpatriot
I've done a lot of cooking out doors in my time - gassers, upright water smokers, horizontal mega ton, seperate chamber / fire box smokers, charcoal grills, etc.

Got my first BGE (large) two years ago, the second one about a year ago - large also, hence, "twins".

Can't beat 'em. Family loves the food, friends love the food - and I like cooking with 'em. Wish I would've had one years ago!

Do you visit the BGE forum? Sure hope so.

Happy Egg'n,

LVM

100 posted on 05/21/2003 7:01:22 PM PDT by LasVegasMac
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