Posted on 07/10/2022 5:16:27 AM PDT by ExGeeEye
I've had these tiny zebras in my* home all my life. I don't know where they came from, or why there are two that are identical.
When my late parents' house was emptied, my sister sent these (and other things) to me. One of the zebras had suffered from a failure in packaging.
I would like to repair it, but fear making a hash of it. At the very least, I would like to know the best adhesive for the purpose, and any recommendations as to method of securing pieces together while an adhesive sets or cures.
Thanks in advance!
*I count the home I left, but frequently visited, once I left the nest.
Best moose: Alaska, or Sweden (or so the title writers hired by Monty Python informed me)
Best sister: I only have the one and she did a mostly good job of preserving and forwarding my stuff.
My husband uses superglue when we need to repair broken glass or ceramic,
You didn't assist your sister emptying your parents home. At least give her credit for the enormous task.
Loctite Super glue. Best for tgis job is the gellwd type. Won’t run. Just a dab’ll do ya. Hold in place for 60 seconds.
“this” “gelled”
Look up super glue and baking soda on Youtube
I have repaired many tiny ceramic miniatures. Liquid crazy glue and not too much. Not the thicker crazy glue either. Thin stuff works best and have some Q tips handy for wiping off any excess quickly. Start with the torso and take some time, check the fit first. I would wait at least 20 minutes between fixes.
There is glue that cures instantly with UV light. It comes in a container that has a LED light on one end. You put a drop in place, mash the pieces together, and shine the light on the joint like a flashlight. You can get it at Walmart.
Dry test fit the pieces first to see if any bits are missing. If there are clean breaks, shouldn’t be a problem to glue it. If there are some bits missing, you might want to find a restorer to do this for you.
Any superglue that works on ceramics should do the trick as long as you follow the instructions to a t.
To apply in situations like this (we have always had cats and tchotchkes, so I get a lot of practice), I use a toothpick to apply the glue. Sparingly.
Follow the glue’s instructions on how long to hold/dry/cure.
Figure out how you’ll support it before you start gluing. You won’t have time to do that after application.
As for support while it dries, I’d glue one piece at a time. Before you start gluing, find/make some kind of support that will hold your piece while it dries. I’ve used things like a braced empty toilet paper tube, a bench vise with something to cushion and protect what I’m gluing. Get creative, and test before gluing.
Remember that if you apply more glue on the pieces than you need, it might squeeze out when you press. Do NOT wipe that away. Have toothpicks or a jewelers screwdriver handy to gently tease away the glue.
FWIW, I’d practice on something else first. Go to the store and buy some inexpensive ceramic trinket, break it, then glue it.
Keep in mind that, while well intentioned, this advice is worth what you paid for it.
Good luck!
That’s what I was thinking.
You are a Wise Fixer. You remind people to use Q Tips when handling any of those Super Glues. You dont want to end up like that lady from 3 years ago.
Her nickname was Gorrila Girl.
She used Gorrila Glue and had some sort of embarrassing mishap.
If you really want to make it so you can’t tell it was broken, and they mean a lot to you, don’t fix yourself. Go to an art restorer.
They do it all the time and they do a much better job than you or I could do.
I use Titebond (or Elmers or Gorilla wood glue) it works well on porous surfaces, gives you plenty of time to align the parts and cleans up easily with water.
Use small amounts from a drop you put on a small piece of cardboard, use a toothpick to put the glue on the contact surfaces, then attach only two pieces at a time, allowing those pieces to fully harden before putting the next two pieces together.
I use clay to hold small pieces in position while they dry.
I am a model builder and old stuff restorer - so this is my best advice.
Good luck!
Yes, the UV setting glue is a good solution.
Another important piece of the process. No matter what glue you use, cleaning the broken area is essential to bonding.
Looks like this is a recent break, so probably clean. Best cleaner is denatured alcohol. (contains no oily residue) I have used it for many many years in repairs using epoxy adhesives. You can use lacquer thinner first followed up by denatured alcohol for dirty surfaces.
For the pieces that are hollow and to be joined I’d use some light weight modeling clay in the void to give it stability and help stop movement off center. Then after using the right glue for ceramics would use strips of something like painters tape to hold while the glue sets.
Good advice.
I’ve used old fashioned Duco Cement to make such repairs. Set time is slower than super glue. And it is clear.
I did.
Also: she and husband are retired. I do 50 hours a week.
Thanks for the completely on-topic response, by the way.
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