gas storage options question

me ^ | 11-3-12 | TurboZamboni

[TurboZamboni]

What are the best long term gas storage options("long" being 2-3 years)

It will be in a non-climate controlled shed with summer temps up to 100 and winter down to -30.

[steve86]

I installed an oil filter kit on the old Generac (with VW bus muffler and SA), so it should last at least a couple of oil changes LOL.

[steve86]

With Avgas you can’t legally add a stabilizer (unless one has been approved). So unless it is stored in the sealed steel barrels you will still have gum formation over time. Keep it totally out of sunlight at least. This is what I have found over decades to be the real killer. For example, you will see early gumming and black deposits in a clear fuel line or transparent fuel filter with any kind of gasoline.

[loungitude]

Somewhat related question :
In a portable, gasoline fueled generator, should the tank be empty or full for long term storage?

[count-your-change]

You mean Use It or Lose It?

[GeronL]

empty, gasoline is corrosive (especially with ethanol)

Make sure the fuel lines are clean too

[Errant]

Any fuel allowed to evaporate will have its formula altered. It's why you need tightly sealed, metal containers, or store it under very cool and dry conditions.

Gasoline evaporation builds pressure when temps climb and you need metal containers able to withstand the pressure to prevent venting.

Commonly available plastic containers aren't strong enough though I'm not too sure about commercial 55 gallon plastic drums. I have no experience with these but they do seem to be pretty well put together and the bungs seem to be pretty strong.

I highly recommend having at least empty containers on hand. Having been through at least a half dozen power out conditions from both hurricane and ice storms, I find fuel containers are some of the first items to disappear from shelves.

What I do, is I fill 'em at the first signs of trouble knowing I have an airplane with over 60 gallons of 100LL just a few miles away. :)

I lost power during hurricane Isaac a month ago, but only for three days. I only used my little Honda 2K generator which doesn't use much fuel and I still have 4 six gallon cans of gasoline that I need to use up.

Been using that in my motorcycle and ATV mostly. The motorcycle is a KLR that gets 65 mpg so it's taking awhile to use it up. Guess I need to fire up the Harley instead and do some cruzin'... ;)

[steve86]

Some have steel tanks and others, like my Generac, have plastic. The metal I definitely would keep filled (that might be the only gasoline you actually end up having access to). The plastic is up to you. I keep mine filled, but evaporation does occur. Keeping a float bowl filled or not is another issue.

[The Cajun]

I been known to go 2.5 times regular dose for 2.5 years.

Had to rebuild a buddy's lawn tractor carburetor last year.
He had it setting up for over a year in his barn, the gas tank smelled like varnish.
Really a gummed up mess, steamed cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel lines and filter.
Chewed him out about not using Stabil, LOL.

[steve86]

What is your opinion on the float bowls on bikes/generators filled or not issue?

I generally keep mine filled (have through 30+ years, with never more than a partially clogged jet that cleaned itself quickly with no fuel. And that includes pre-stabilizer years).

If the bowl is not filled there is a greater chance the float valve o-ring will dry out.

But OTOH, I bought a used KE100 last February and the pilot jet clogged a month later with brand new non-ethanol gas!

I have an ‘82 XL250 with 2 year old old STABILized gas I need to change out this week or next. That is the one that starts up a little balky and needs extra choke until the pilot cleans out.

[JoeFromSidney]

Don't store it for long periods. Rotate it, just as you do with your other survival supplies. When you need to refill your gas tank, pour in one of your five-gallon cans, then fill the tank up the rest of the way, and refill the can.

[steve86]

For some reason, gasoline around here really doesn't get too bad in one single year even without stabilizer (as long as it isn't stored in the sun). Maybe because we don't have a big-city formulation? On my main generator, I bought an entire spare carb and other people should probably do that as well. It is so easy to lose small parts when you work on them even in good conditions. Have you ever lost the little float shaft? Yes, you can make one out of a tack or something. I think my spare carb (brand new) cost about $30 on eBay although it was around $70 from a dealer. Just the bowl gasket at a dealer is 7 or 8 dollars. I took it apart to make sure there weren't any missing parts, etc., and it looks good.

[steve86]

Have you considered buying spare parts for your generator (carb(s), etc.)? Reminds me I need to make sure I have a spare starting rope for the manual Generac. I always worry about that plastic fuel petcock also but could rig up a motorcycle tank to supply it.

[Errant]

What is your opinion on the float bowls on bikes/generators filled or not issue?

I recommend turning off the fuel and draining the bowl if something is going to be sitting for over 6 months or so. This is were most problems occur (in the carb), both from evaporation leaving behind "gunk" and from corrosion.

For equipment where this isn't possible, siphon/pour out as much fuel as possible and let it run dry. O-rings and vi-ton valves don't dry out and today's gasket materials are better able to withstand such.

You may have some sticking issues from evaporation but this usually fixes itself by allowing time for fuel to free things up or tapping on the side of the bowl. This is a whole lot easier than disassembling the carburetor and removing the gunk/corrosion.

Btw, I have a XL250 too. Needs work though (wrecked) lol I also have a Shadow 1100 and like most Hondas, needs a heavy application of choke but NOT TOO much. Grrr.... The Harley requires LOTS of choke and only push it in after you get about a mile down the road.

[The Cajun]

I always worry about that plastic fuel petcock also but could rig up a motorcycle tank to supply it.

I always replace those suckers with a stainless steel 90 degree turn ball valve from the start on riding mowers, generators, etc.
A little pricey $12-$15, but you're done with that problem.
Those plastic jobs are crap, they eventually leak or come apart totally.

[steve86]

People’s widely varying experiences and recommendations with fuel storage really show that anything can happen at any time and YMMV.

Yes, stuck floats happen all the time (usually rich and won’t shut off), but generally free themselves quickly.

I guess for any one person, if what you’ve been doing works, keep doing it (as long as the gasoline formulation doesn’t change, etc. LOL).

The XL250 has only 1,600 miles and is like brand new. Going to list it on eBay Motors soon. Did do fairly well listing an equally nice Hawk GT NT650 a few months ago. Sold it to a rich Alaskan lawyer with 30+ bikes who bought it on a trip down.

[The Cajun]

The Harley requires LOTS of choke and only push it in after you get about a mile down the road.

That's how you get that beautiful Blap, blap, blap................Blapblapblapblap, blat, blap, blap, blap sound, LOL!

[steve86]

Thanks, I will look for one of those. Last thing I need is another fuel dump on the floor.

[The Cajun]

Don't know if you have any around where you live, but oilfield supply stores have any type you need.
I know True Value handles the brass ones, but I prefer the stainless for just a few bucks more.

[Errant]

I have an ‘82 XL250 with 2 year old old STABILized gas I need to change out this week or next.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cs9gYJXM2IA

[steve86]

It is threaded right into the tank? I forget if the petcock has two mounting bolts like a motorcycle or threads in. Have to look at a diagram (generator isn’t here at my house).