Weekly Roundup - Living On Nothing Edition [Survival Today

Did you hear about the guy that lives on nothing? No seriously, he lives on zero dollars a day. Meet Daniel Suelo, who lives in a cave outside Moab, Utah. Suelo has no mortgage, no car payment, no debt of any kind. He also has no home, no car, no television, and absolutely no “creature comforts.” But he does have a lot of creatures, as in the mice and bugs that scurry about the cave floor he’s called home for the last three years.

To us, Suelo probably sounds a little extreme. Actually, he probably sounds very extreme. After all, I suspect most of you reading this are doing so under the protection of some sort of man-made shelter, and with some amount of money on your person, and probably a few needs for money, too. And who doesn’t need money unless they have completely unplugged from the grid? Still, it’s an amusing story about a guy who rejects all forms of consumerism as we know it.

How to Brew Your Own Beer and Maybe Save Some Money. A fantastic introduction to home brewing, something I’ve never done myself, but always been interested in trying. (@Generation X Finance)

Contentment: A Great Financial Principle. If I had to name one required emotion for living a frugal lifestyle it would be contentment. Once you are content with your belongings and your lot in life you can ignore forces attempting to separate you from your money. (@Personal Finance by the Book)

Use Energy Star Appliances to Save On Utility Costs. I enjoyed this post because it included actual numbers, and actual total savings, from someone who upgraded to new, energy star appliances. (@The Digerati Life)

Over-Saving for Retirement? Is it possible to “over-save” for retirement? Yes, I think so. At some point I like the idea of putting some money aside in taxable investments outside of retirement funds, to be accessed prior to traditional retirement age. (@The Simple Dollar)

40 Things to Teach My Kids Before They Leave Home. A great list of both practical and philosophical lessons to teach your kids before they reach the age where they know everything. I think that now happens around 13 years-old. (@My Supercharged Life)

Index Fund Investing Overview. If you are looking for a place to invest with high diversification and relatively low fees (for broader index funds with low turnover), index funds are a great place to start. (@Money Smart Life)

5 Reasons To Line Dry Your Laundry. My wife and I may soon be installing a clothesline in our backyard. In many neighborhoods they are frowned upon - one of the reasons I don’t like living in a neighborhood. I digress. One of our neighbors recently put up a clothesline, and we might just follow his lead. (@Simple Mom)

* 4 Quick Tips for Getting Out of a Rut * Young and Cash Rich * Embracing Simple Style * First Trading Experience With OptionsHouse * The Exponential Power of Delayed Consumption * How Much Emergency Fund is Enough? * 50 Questions that Will Free Your Mind * Save Money On Car Insurance

http://www.eartheasy.com/eat_one_pot_meals.htm

One-pot cooking methods

Recipes

One-pot cooking used to be the exclusive domain of bachelors, campers and college students just moved away from home. Meals were quick, simple and often right out of the box. The concept was great - just one pot to wash, but the meals could be quite uninspired.

Here are a few variations on the “one-pot” theme, which broaden the possibilities for creative cuisine, while maintaining the simplicity and energy savings of one-pot cooking.

Solar Ovens
Methods

The three methods described below have one thing in common - substitutions.
You can vary the ingredients to suit your taste or to use up the leftovers. The possibilities are endless, yet the procedure is pretty much the same for each meal. Youngsters and people new to cooking will enjoy the simple instructions and flexibility to make any portion size meal with whatever ingredients are available. They’ll also appreciate the simple clean-up!

Method 1: Rice-based meals

1. Put 3 cups cold water and a pinch of salt in a 2qt saucepan. Bring to a boil.
Add 1 1/2 cups brown rice, let water return to a boil, then lower heat to lowest setting and cover. Leave lid on and cook for 30 minutes.

2. Lift the lid and quickly set cauliflower or broccoli on top of the bed of rice. Sprinkle 1 tsp thyme or rosemary. You can also add thin strips of cooked meat, tofu or shrimp - just set on top of the vegetables. Cover immediately and keep cooking for 10 - 12 minutes.
3. Add grated cheese with thinly sliced almonds. Sprinkle bread crumbs as an option. Cover and remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes and serve.

Serves 3 hearty portions.

For substitutions, you can use white, brown or basmati rice. A bouillon cube, chicken or beef flavor, can be added to the water if you plan to use strips of chicken or beef with the dish. Any quick-cooking fresh vegetable can be used. Avoid using frozen vegetables. Slower-cooking vegetables like carrots should be thinly sliced. The grated cheese topping can be replaced with tomato or mushroom sauce.

If you’re cooking for more people, use a larger saucepan. The pan needs to be large enough so that the rice, when cooked, occupies no more than 2/3 the volume of the pan.

Method 2: Potato-based meals

1. Put 2 inches of water and a pinch of salt into a 2qt saucepan, and set a steamer basket or pan on top. Peel 3 or 4 large potatoes, cube into fairly large pieces and place in steamer. The potatoes should only fill the pan halfway, or a little more. Cover and cook on med-hi for 12 minutes.

2. Add large pieces of fresh broccoli, zucchini or cauliflower, and thinner slices of carrot and onion. Add seasonings such as thyme, rosemary and garlic powder. Set thin strips of ham, cooked chicken or tofu on top of the vegetables. Cover and cook for 10 minutes.
3. Test for doneness by piercing a potato with a fork - the fork should slip out without lifting the potato. Add topping of grated cheese, mushroom sauce or just thin slivers of butter. Sprinkle with parsley.

Serves 3.

Substitutions can include carrots cut in larger pieces and started with the potatoes. String beans can be added after the potatoes have had 5 to 10 minutes head start. Mushrooms can be added after about 10 - 12 minutes. Cooked fish, shrimp or tofu can be used as meat substitutions.

Method 3: Pasta-based meals

1. In a large, deep skillet add 1 tbsp olive oil and a pound of meat, cubed or ground. Brown the meat over med-hi heat.
2. Add equal parts of pasta sauce, water and bite-sized pasta. (A cup per person should do.) Cover, bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes.
3. Add sliced mushrooms, onion, pepper and broccoli, and cook under cover for 5 min. more.
4. Stir in one cup of grated mozzarella cheese, let stand for a few minutes. Sprinkle with parmesan and serve.

Serves 4. Substitutions include any kind of bite-sized pasta. Chicken strips or diced ham can also be used for meat dishes, or tofu for meatless. Corn, peas, olives or sliced peppers can also be used for vegetables.

Recipes

Rice Verde

This simple casserole is great for using up leftover rice. Serves 3.
1/4 cup butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 cup cooked rice
1 pkg (10 oz) chopped spinach 1 cup milk
1 egg, slightly beaten
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
Saute
Stir in rice, spinach, milk, beaten egg, salt and cheese. Mix well with fork.
Cover and bake until mixture is hot. Uncover and sprinkle with bread crumbs or sliced almonds.

Skillet Sausage Paella

3/4 lb hot Italian sausage
1 onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup long-grain rice
2 tomatoes, chopped
1 green pepper, sliced
2 bay leaves
1/4 tsp turmeric
one dash hot pepper sauce
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese

Cut sausage into thick slices; cook in a large skillet over med-lo heat for 10 minutes, or until no longer pink. Pour off fat. Add onion and garlic; cook until softened.
Stir in stock, then rice, tomatoes, green pepper, bay leaves, turmeric and hot sauce. Cover and simmer for 25 minutes or until rice is tender.
Stir in peas, and salt to taste. Cook for 3 minutes.
Spread cheese on top and slip into oven for a few minutes to melt and crisp the cheese.

Herbed Salmon

We recommend Wild Alaska salmon, which is produced from a well-managed sustainable fishery. An online source for sustainable seafoods is Vital Choice Seafoods.
4 salmon fillets
4 potatoes, quartered
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tbsp parsley
1 tbsp Italian seasoning
1 can tomato sauce
3/4 cup white wine
Pour oil in large pan. Lay potatoes in oil and cover with half the mixture of onion, garlic, parsley and seasoning.
Lay fish on top of the potatoes. Pour remaining half of mixture over fish.
Mix tomato sauce and wine together, and pour over fish.
Bake at 375 for 80 minutes, uncovered. Baste fish occassionally with sauce in pan.
Serves 4.

Minestrone

This recipe is large - serves 8. Many substitutions are possible - use what you’ve got on hand. This dish keeps well, and can be used for meals for several days.
1 tbsp olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 cans chicken broth
1 large can tomatoes
2 cups chopped green cabbage
1 cup sliced carrots 2 tbsp parsley
1/2 tsp basil
1/4 tsp each-oregano, thyme, salt, pepper
1/4 cup elbow or shell pasta
1 cup each-chopped broccoli, zucchini
1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms
1 cup drained, canned chick peas
Pour oil in 5 qt saucepan and heat. Add onion and garlic and cook a few minutes over medium heat. Stir in chicken broth, cabbage, tomato, carrots and seasonings. Add 1 cup water. Increase heat to a near boil, then simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in the pasta, cover and cook for 10-15 minutes. Add broccoli, zucchini, mushrooms and chick peas. Cook uncovered on low heat until pasta is tender. Taste for salt.

Dahl

This dish is an Indian recipe.
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 1/2 cups washed lentils
1 small can tomato paste or sauce 1 tsp coriander
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp soy seasoning powder
1 tsp curry
In a small casserole or baking dish, saute the onion until soft, then add the garlic cloves.
After one minute, add the lentils and just enough water to cover them. Add tomato paste and stir in the remaining ingredients. Cover.
Cook one hour. Serve with chapppatis or pocket bread. Leftovers can be made into a nice soup. Serves 3.

Summer Vegetable Medley

This simple dish can be prepared using Method 2, above, or you can leave out the nesting steamer pot and simply toss your ingredients into the one pot with water. This recipe lends itself to substitutions, so feel free to use what you have available.
1 lb fresh green beans, cut in large pieces
3 sweet red peppers, cut in large pieces
1 qt cauliflower florets
1 qt broccoli florets
2 cups leeks, thinly sliced 1 lb firm tofu, cubed
1 vegetable bouillon cube
2 - 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup grated Romano cheese
1/2 cup chopped parsely
In a large saucepan, put the bouillon cube in about 1/2 inch water and bring to a boil. Add all ingredients except the garlic, parsely and cheese. Cover, and steam for 10 - 12 minutes. Add the garlic, mix and cover for another 2 minutes. Add the parsely and cheese, and stir once quickly through the mixture. Replace the cover and steam just until the cheese begins to melt. Remove from heat, sprinkle with sesame seeds and dill, and serve immediately. Serves 4 - 6.

Skillet Taco Supremo

A great way to use up the broken, crumbly tortilla chips at the bottom of the bag.
1 pound lean pork or beef, cut into small cubes
1 can (16 ounces) refried beans
1 cup salsa
2 cups iceberg lettuce, shredded
2 cups broken corn tortilla chips
1/2 cup black olives
1 tbsp olive oil
2 large tomatoes, diced
1/2 cup sour cream
1 cup grated cheddar cheese

Using a large skillet, cook the cubed pork over medium-high heat for 8 - 10 minutes, until browned and partially cooked. Add refried beans and salsa, stirring until blended. Cook until mixture reaches a near boil, then lower heat and simmer, stirring frequently to keep pork from sticking to the skillet. Check the pork for doneness in 6 - 10 minutes (there should be no pink in the center of the cubed meat). Remove from heat. Add tomatoes, chips and cheese, in that order. Cover just long enough to melt cheese. Add sour cream, lettuce and olives. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 - 6.

Related pages:
Campfire Cooking
Sun Ovens
Hybrid Solar Ovens

http://www.eartheasy.com/eat_vegetarian.htm

Vegetarian Meals for Meatlovers

Trying to introduce vegetarian meals to your family?

There are many health benefits to the vegetarian diet, both to the individual as well as to the planet. Incorporating vegetarian meals into your diet is actually quite easy, even if you’re used to a heavier, meat-based diet.

The recipes on this page are hearty and substantial, and chosen to appeal to even the most die-hard meatlovers.

Nutburgers

An all-time favorite meatless burger. The nutburger is tasty, satisfying and filling, without leaving you with the heavy feeling after eating a beef burger. And it’s healthier too!
1 cup cheddar cheese, shredded
2 eggs
1 cup toasted wheat germ or cooked rice
1 cup parsley, finely chopped
3 stalks celery, minced
1 onion, minced
1 cup walnuts, finely chopped
1 green or red pepper, finely chopped
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp basil
2 tsp curry powder
Mix all together in a big bowl, drop batter into patties in hot olive oil in skillet. Use just enough oil to cover the pan bottom. Cook until golden brown. Serve on a bun just like a hamburger, with red onion slice, lettece tomato slice......the works!

Irish Colcannon

1 bag frozen hash browns with peppers
1 medium onion
1 C milk
1 large bunch of fresh kale Nutmeg
6 eggs
1 C. Shredded cheddar
In a 9x13 pan, spray with a vegetable cooking spray. Set oven to 375°.
Clean kale, and remove stems. Chop onion, fry in small amount olive oil until brown. Add kale & stir until kale is slightly cooked. Add salt and pepper to taste, and 1 tsp nutmeg.
Remove from heat. Spread frozen Hash browns in bottom of sprayed casserole. Add milk. Top with kale and onion mixture. Make 6 ‘wells’. Break an egg into each well. Top casserole with shredded cheddar cheese. Bake until eggs are set. Time varies by oven, usually 35-40 minutes.

Thank you Kathy McD for this recipe.

Tofu Tamale Pie

Freezing, thawing and squeezing tofu makes it more chewy and meat-like in texture, and also makes it absorb more of the juices in the dish. Some tofu brands lends themselves to this process better than others, but since not all tofu brands are available everywhere, one has to figure this out by trial and error. Denver brand tofu works well with this method, Melissa’s brand not so much. White Wave extra firm tofu has a good, meaty texture - just dice it and toss it in.

1 lb tofu (firm or extra-firm): freeze, thaw, squeeze out and cut or tear into bite-size pieces.

Saute together until soft:
1 TBSP olive oil (extra virgin cold-pressed)
1 large onion, chopped; 1 large bell pepper, chopped;1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced

When these are almost soft, stir in the prepared tofu in bite-size pieces and:
1 (15-oz) can tomatoes, chopped; 1 (15-oz) can tomato sauce
2 TBSP chili powder, 2 tsp ground cumin, 1/2 tsp oregano
1 cup (1/2 can) black olives, sliced; 1 (10-oz) package frozen cut corn; 1 (6-oz) can green chilis
Pour into a 9”X13” oiled baking dish. Preheat oven to 350* F. Prepare cornbread topping, below.

Cornbread Topping:

Mix together in a bowl:
1 cup cornmeal, 1 cup whole wheat flour, 2 tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp salt
Stir together and pour into the dry ingredients:
1 cup soymilk, 2 TBSP oil, 1 TBSP honey or sweetener of your choice

Pour this over the filling in baking pan and bake about 45 minutes, or until cornbread is browned.

From “Tofu Cookery” by Louise Hagler. Thank you Laurie for this recipe!

Tofu Loaf

This tofu loaf is an excellent meatloaf substitute, and is also good sliced and fried for sandwiches the next day.

Preheat oven to 350º F, and mix together the following ingredients:
1 lb tofu, mashed
1/2 cup wheat germ
1/3 cup parsley, chopped
1/4 cup onion, chopped
or 1 TBSP onion powder 2 TBSP soy sauce
2 TBSP nutritional yeast (optional)
1/2 TBSP Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp garlic powder
1/4 tsp black pepper

Oil a loaf pan with 2 TBSP oil. Press the tofu mixture into the oiled loaf pan and bake for about 1 hour. Let cool 10 minutes before removing from pan. Garnish with catsup and parsley. Sprinkle generously with paprika on the top of the loaf before putting it in the oven.

Grilled Polenta with Portabello Mushrooms

Portabello mushrooms are a great meat substitute. The portabella mushrooms in this recipe give the meal a hearty taste one associates with meat-based meals.
1/2 cup polenta (coarsely ground cornmeal)
1 15-ounce can vegetable broth or 2 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup water
4 large portabella mushrooms
1 TBSP olive oil 2 TBSP soy sauce
2 TBSP balsamic vinegar
2 TBSP red wine
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 roasted red pepper, cut into thin strips for garnish
Combine the polenta, vegetable broth, and 1/2 cup of water in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until very thick, 15 to 20 minutes. Pour into a 9 x 9-inch baking dish and chill completely (at least 2 hours). To grill, cut into wedges, brush or spray lightly with olive oil, and cook

Clean the mushrooms and remove the stems. Prepare the marinade by stirring the remaining ingredients together in a large bowl. Place the mushrooms upside down in the marinade and let stand 10 to 15 minutes. Turn right side up and grill over medium-hot coals about 5 minutes. Turn and pour some of the marinade into each of the cavities. Grill until mushrooms can be pierced with a skewer, about 5 minutes longer. Serve with grilled polenta. Garnish with roasted red pepper strips, if desired.

Note: Many other vegetables are delicious grilled as well. Grilled zucchini, eggplant, sweet potatoes, peppers, or asparagus would make great accompaniments.

Vegetable Fajitas

This is a favorite - quick, easy and satisfying.
1 onion
1 each: red, green, yellow bell pepper
1 garlic clove, minced
8 ounces mushrooms
several broccoli crowns, cut small
6 TBSP olive oil
2 TBSP chili powder 3 TBSP lime juice
fajita seasoning
lemon pepper
guacamole (recipe below)
vegan sour cream (recipe below)
flour tortillas
Slice onion and peppers into strips. Remove mushroom stems and slice the mushrooms thickly. Combine in a bowl, add the crushed garlic and mix slightly.

In a seperate bowl, mix the oil, chili powder, lime juice, fajita seasoning and lemon pepper and pour over the vegetable mixture. Stir well and set aside for an hour or more.

After the vegetables have marinated, heat a frying pan or wok until very hot. Add the marinated vegetables and stir-fry over high heat for 5-6 minutes, until the mushrooms and peppers are just tender. Spoon the filling onto each tortilla, garnish with guacamole, sour cream (and if desired, picante sauce or salsa) and roll up. Makes wonderful leftovers (if there are any!)

From “Vegetarian: The Greatest Ever Vegetarian Cookbook” Edited by Nicola Graimes

Easy Guacamole

5 - 6 avocados
2/3 of a jar of organic salsa
fresh cilantro (about half of a batch)
2 cloves garlic
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
fairly generous dash of cayenne

Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend till fairly smooth. Season to taste.
Refrigerate in airtight container.

Penne alla Cecca

This recipe is very easy, and fast to make. It’s a great meal for summer, too — not heavy or hot, but filling and refreshing! Great with tossed salads and bruschetta or garlic bread...

Drop 5 large tomatoes* into boiling water for 1 full minute. Peel, seed and chop (or use 1 28-ounce can organic diced tomatoes.) Put tomatoes into large bowl with:

1/2 cup olive oil
one garlic clove sliced in half
2/3 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
1 tsp (or to taste) - hot red pepper flakes

Let sit for a couple of hours, then remove the garlic. Boil one pound of the pasta of your choice, drain and toss with the cold tomato mixture. Serve immediately.

Note: This recipe can be doubled, because the leftovers are so good! You can make it easier to fish the garlic halves out later by sticking a toothpick through them before adding them to the mixture.

Adapted from the Linguini alla Cecca recipe in the book “Heartburn” by Nora Ephron. Thank you Laurie for this recipe!

Hearty Bean and Pasta Stew

1 c. onions, chopped
1/2 c. chopped green pepper
16 oz can diced tomatoes
15 oz. can black beans, rinsed
15 oz. can kidney beans, rinsed
15 oz. can pinto beans, rinsed 4 oz. shell macaroni
1 tsp oregano
1/2 tsp basil
1/8 tsp pepper
3 oz. salsa (or more to taste)
3 c. water
Saute the onions and green pepper in olive oil. Add tomatoes, water and beans and bring to a boil. Add pasta, oregano, basil and pepper and cook 10 mins. Add salsa and heat until it’s warm.

Thanks Joanne for this recipe!

http://www.eartheasy.com/eat_pesticides_produce.htm
[See chart at link and links to live urls]

Pesticides and Produce

The choice is yours!

Thanks to improvements in farming, shipping and distribution, shoppers today enjoy a wider selection of fresh produce than ever before. However, pesticide residue on some fruits and vegetables can be a cause for concern.

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Most countries monitor residual levels of pesticides in produce, and establish legal limits for the safety of consumers. In some cases, however, these residual levels may be toxic for children, pregnant women and even pets.
A study by Consumers Union, the publishers of Consumer Reports magazine, examines and rates the residual levels of pesticides on many common fruits and vegetables. A report by the Environmental Working Group, using data from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, has found that much of the health risks associated with pesticides are concentrated in a relatively small number of fruits and vegetables. The list below is compiled from these reports.
.....Produce with Highest Levels of Pesticide Residue.....
Fruit/Vegetable

Strawberries

Bell Peppers
...Green
...Red

Spinach

Cherries (US)

Peaches

Cantaloupe (Mexico)

Celery

Apples

Apricots

Green Beans

Grapes (Chile)

Cucumbers

Pears

Winter Squash (US)

Potatoes (US)

Nutrients

Vitamin C

Vitamin C
Vitamins A, C

Vitamins A, C, Folic acid
Vitamin C

Vitamins A, C

Vitamins A, C, Potassium
Carotenoids

Vitamins A, C, Potassium
Vitamins A, C, Potassium
Carotenoids

Vitamin C, Potassium

Vitamin A, Potassium

Vitamins A, C, Folic acid
Vitamins A, C. Folic acid, Potassium
Vitamin C, Folic acid

Substitutions (approx. nutritional equivalent)

Blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, kiwi, orange, cantaloupe

Green peas, broccoli, romaine lettuce
Carrots, broccoli, brussels sprouts, tomatoes, asparagrus, romaine lettuce
Broccoli, brussels sprouts, asparagrus, romaine lettuce

Grapefruit, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe, orange

Canned peaches, cantaloupe (US), tangerine, grapefruit, watermelon
Watermelon, cantaloupe (US)

Carrots, broccoli, radishes, romaine lettuce

Oranges, banana, kiwi, watermelon, tangerine, mango

Cantaloupe (US), watermelon, tangerines, grapefruit

Green peas, broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, asparagrus
Grapes (US), in season

Carrots, romaine lettuce, broccoli, radishes

Canned pears, canned peaches, oranges

Winter squash (Honduras, Mexico), sweet potatoes (US)

Sweet potatoes (US), carrots, winter squash (Honduras, Mexico)
.....Produce with Lowest Levels of Pesticide Residue.....

Avocados - vitamins A, C, folic acid

Sweet Corn (frozen)- carotenoids, folic acid

Onions - trace vitamins, carotenoids

Cabbage - vitamin C, potassium

Cauliflower - vitamin C, potassium

Brussels Sprouts - folic acid, vitamins A, C

Eggplant - vitamins A, C, folic acid

Mangoes - beta carotene, vitamin C

Grapes (US, Mexico) - vitamin C

Bananas - potassium, vitamin C

Plums - vitamin C

Asparagrus - folic acid, vitamins A, C

Watermelon - potassium, vitamins A, C

Broccoli - potassium, vitamins A, C

Pineapple - vitamin C, potassium, bromelain

Sweet Peas (frozen) - beta carotene, niacin
.................................................................
Information Sources:
Consumers Union
Environmental Working Group
U.S. Food and Drug Administration San Diego Earth Times
Environmental Protection Agency
Food Quality Protection Act
How To Make Produce Safer
Buy Organic
Produce which is “Certified Organic” will cost more, but is your best assurance of pesticide-free status. Although the chart above is useful, it is not 100% accurate; growing methods can change, and country-of-origin considerations make it more difficult to know exactly what you’re buying. For example, the US exports annually 100 - 150 million lbs. of banned (in the US) pesticides, and then imports fruit which may be grown using these pesticides. Buying organic, in-season produce from your local market is the best assurance of pesticide-free produce. If you are on a limited budget, look for organic choices for the produce your family eats the most.

Vegetable and Fruit Washes
Commercial vegetable and fruit washes are available which are formulated to remove chemical residue from produce. Examples are Environné and Vitanet, available online or at your local health food stores and some supermarkets. You can also make your own produce wash using a very diluted solution of mild dishwashing detergent (1 tsp detergent per gallon, or 4 liters, water).
For grapes, strawberries, green beans, and leafy vegetables, swirl the foods in a dilute solution of dish detergent and water at room temperature for 5 to 10 seconds, then rinse with slightly warm water.
For the other fruits and vegetables, use a soft brush to scrub the food with the solution for about 5 to 10 seconds, then rinse again with slightly warm water.

Peel Fruits with Higher Residue Levels
Peeling fruits, especially peaches, pears and apples, will help remove residues. Be sure to keep the peelings out of the compost. Some pesticides permeate the skin of the fruit, so this method does not guarantee residual free produce in all cases.

Grow Your Own
Looking at the list of most contaminated fruits and vegetables, you can chose to grow some of these yourself. Even a small backyard plot can be very productive for family use.
Bell peppers, for example, are easy to grow in most hot or temperate climates, especially when grown in a garden cloche.
Green beans and grapes can be grown vertically on trellises which can also serve as a shade provider during the summer months.
Apples can be grown in most climates, and columnar varieties can even be grown in pots on the deck or rooftop. See our page on fruit trees.
Peaches can be grown in the backyard in warm to hot climate zones, but often require a method of covering to protect the tree from rain-borne disease.
Spinach and cucumbers are easy, if you have the ground space. You can plant one or two of these crops in your yard and encourage a neighbor to grow others - then share the harvests.
Tips

~ Although apples rank high in pesticide residue, apple juice ranks low. Apple juice is a good substitute for non-organic apples.

~ The residue levels in canned peaches are drastically lower than for fresh peaches. The processing requires vigorous washing which removes most residues from the skin. Also, different varieties of peaches are grown for canning, which require less pesticide to grow.

~ Sprouts are easy to grow in the home, very inexpensive and highly nutritious. Sprouts may be the simplest source of organic produce for you and your family.

~ Some of the fruits and vegetables which rank low on the pesticide residue scale may have higher rates of pesticide residue if they come from certain countries. Ask the produce manager in your local supermarket for country-of-origin information.

~ Cherries from the US are three times more contaminated than their imported counterparts, which are among the cleanest fruits and vegetables analyzed. Cherries contain a compound known as ellagic acid which counteracts carcinogens, so it’s worthwhile to seek out a source of imported cherries if you live in the US or Canada.

~ Are pesticide residues less of a problem in canned and frozen fruits and vegetables? Probably, although most of the research has been done by the food industry. The washing and blanching to prepare fruits and vegetables for canning or freezing removes or destroys approximately 80-90% of pesticide residues, according to the U.S. based National Food Processors Association.
````````````````````````````````````````````
Although one should use caution when buying produce, it is most important to note that the benefits of eating fresh fruits and vegetables far outweigh the risks associated with pesticide residue.
Online Sources
Where to find organic produce online:

Diamond Organics - delivers to any address in US
Dave’s Organics - home delivery in California
Front Door Organics - home and office delivery in Toronto
Organics Delivered - delivers to Toronto and Peterborough Co.
Phoenix Rising - delivers to any address in US
Urban Organic - delivers to the New York area
Small Potatoes - delivers to Vancouver, Calgary, Seattle
Organic Express - home delivery throughout California
Door to Door Organics - serves Philadelphia, NJ and vicinity
Planet Organics - home delivery in San Francisco Bay area

http://www.eartheasy.com/grow_fall_care_fruit_trees.html

Fall Care of Fruit Trees
< grow >
fruit tree in autumn

A few simple steps taken now will give your fruit trees a head start for spring.

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Harvesting fruit from your own trees is a most satisfying activity, but care must be taken to ensure the fruit will last when stored through the winter months. Proper storage of winter keeper varieties of apples can provide you with apples through winter and into early spring.

Fall is also the time to look after the health of the tree. A few simple practices will help the tree through the winter dormant period and ensure its vitality for spring flowering and fruiting.

Here are suggestions for preparing your orchard for winter.

Cedar Raised Garden Center

Jora Composter

Raised Garden Beds

Apple Maggot Traps
• make sure that your tree is watered well into mid-October
so that the tree goes into the winter with a good moisture supply. To know that you have watered sufficiently, place a pan or dish under the tree and water until the container accumulates 5-8 cm (2-3 in.) of water. This amount will water the trees deeply down into the root zone, whereas less water will only dampen the soil close to the surface.

• rake fallen leaves from under fruit trees
and put them in areas away from healthy fruit trees. This prevents leaf-borne diseases from recurring. It also reduces habitat for mice, which can be destructive to fruit trees. Cutting the grass around the base of the tree has a similar benefit.

• do not fertilize your tree under most circumstances
Most fruit trees in healthy soils do not require fertilizer. Do not apply fertilizer after July 1. Never fertilize young trees. If fertilized, they will take longer to mature and bear fruit. If fertilized in the fall young trees in particular will lack winter hardiness because they will continue to grow. Fertilize your fruit trees only if they shows pale leaves and weak growth. If these signs occur, a small amount (1 cup) of a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 16-20-0) for a larger tree will usually help it along. Use less for a smaller tree.

• pick fruit carefully
The stem should remain on a picked apple, but if the leaf spurs are breaking off with the stem, it’s likely that you’re picking too soon, or your picking technique isn’t working. Try grasping the apple from the bottom and gently lifting it upwards till it is upside down; the twig usually breaks free easily. Another technique is to twist the fruit upwards and to one side.

• separate flawed fruit from perfect fruit when storing
Even the smallest nick or beak mark on the fruit will encourage spoilage. Flawed fruit should be set aside for fall eating and cooking; save only the perfect fruit for winter storage.

• wait until early spring for all major pruning
Only minor pruning should be done in other seasons.Pruning in the late summer or fall may encourage the tree to continue growing. It must stop growing for some time in order to harden-off before winter. If it does not have this hardening-off period, it will not become come fully winter hardy, and winter injury may occur.

• control insects
Did you have canker worms on your trees last spring? If you did, fall is the time to get some tanglefoot on the tree to prevent female moths from going to the top of the tree, where they lay the eggs that hatch into next year’s worms. Did you have tent caterpillars on your tree last spring? Watch for their egg bands on the twigs in the fall. Remove any bands, and you will have few or no problems next spring.

• do not leave your fruit on the tree too long before picking
Overripe fruit attracts pests such as wasps and racoons, and is prone to rot. Overripe fruit also puts a burden on the tree structure and may result in broken branches. Also, overripe fruit will not last as long in storage.

Pick pears before mature and allow them to ripen in the house at cool room temperature. Cut into a pear and check the seed colour. Pick pears at the first hint of browning of the seeds. Apples can be picked when each seed is about half brown. Once picked, they can be stored at room temperature for a few days and then used. If you want to store your apples for a longer period, pick them when you notice the first hint of brown in the seeds. Place newly picked apples for storage in the refrigerator and reduce wilting by placing them in a perforated plastic bag.

Plums are tricky, and often fall from the tree just before they are ripe. They should be picked when they are a little on the green side and allowed to ripen at cool room temperatures.

• take care to protect the branch spurs
Branch spurs are the short twigs holding the fruit, and they are easily damaged when harvesting fruit from the tree. Use a pole picker rather than climbing through the tree when picking fruit, as the spurs break off easily when you brush against them while in the tree. The fruit for subsequent years is produced on these spurs.

• in cold climates, protect trees from sunscald
Sunscald can occur in late winter while the roots are still frozen. Sun can warm the bark during the day, but cells die at night causing damage to the tree. Young trees with smooth bark are particularly susceptible to sun scald. Plastic tree guards or paper tree wraps can be placed around the lower trunk to prevent sunscald; other methods include painting the lower trunk with white latex paint, or wrapping aluminum foil to shade the trunk.

• protect trees from mice and rabbit damage
In cold climates, mice and rabbits can damage or destroy fruit trees by eating the lower bark. Observe the lower bark for mice activity, and install tree guards if this is a problem in your orchard.

• compost or juice windfalls and damaged fruit
Windfalls and slightly damaged fruit can be saved for eating or processing. However, some fallen fruit will be too damaged to save. This fruit attracts wasps and other pests, and is better off in the compost where it can contribute to building healthy compost for spring. Wear gloves when picking fruit off the ground, as wasps can be present in the hollowed-out parts of fallen fruit, and pose a hazard.

Windfalls are also among the tastiest apples for summer/fall eating. This is because they have reached the peak of ripeness. They often have a bruise, sometimes difficult to see, which is why they should not be stored with the ‘perfects’. Remember the old saying “One bad apple spoils the whole bunch.” This is so true. For this reason we gather windfalls and use them for making our own homemade apple juice. Making juice is a perfect way of using apples which are not perfect enough for storing, or for using the excess “early-eating” apples such as Transparents and Gravensteins which are not meant for storing.

• check tree stakes for firmness and vertical orientation
If you have any of your trees staked, now is the time to check to see if they are still well set and vertical. During the summer months of growth and taking on weight due to the fruit load, the stakes can loosen in the ground, allowing the tree to lean. In our orchard, the trees which became ‘leaners’ have all since fallen during winter wind storms. We now take care to see that the stakes on young trees are sound, and each fall we cinch-in the ropes (from stake to tree) enough to keep the tree as vertical as possible.

While you’re at it, take a careful look at the fence around your garden or orchard. If deer get in they may nibble the bark around the base of young trees which will harm of kill the tree. Make sure your fence has no weak spots that will give in to winter storms.
Over the years, we’ve come to realize that the fruit from our orchard yields the greatest ‘return on effort’ of all our garden crops. Now that the price of organic apples has risen to as much as $1 per apple, we see real value in a mature fruit tree which may have 500 - 1000 apples! Considering this value, and the relatively small amount of work it takes to realize, it’s well worth taking the time to care for your trees during and after the harvest to ensure future productivity.

http://www.eartheasy.com/grow_garden_insectary.htm

Garden ‘Mini’ Insectary

[Chart looks better on the site....]

A garden ‘mini’ insectary is a small garden plot of flowering plants designed to attract and harbor beneficial insects.

These ‘good’ insects prey on many common garden insect pests and offer the gardener a safer, natural alternative to pesticides.

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A garden insectary is a form of “companion planting”, based on the positive effects plants can share as a method of deterring pests, acquiring nutrients or attracting natural predators. By becoming more diverse with your plantings, you are providing habitat, shelter and alternative food source, such as pollen and nectar, something many predators need as part of their diet.

Aphid predators such as aphidius, need the pests to be present in order to reproduce. The idea of inviting the pests in may seem alarming, until you understand that you can encourage host specific pests. These pests will remain on the desired plant in your mini insectary yet provide an ideal breeding ground for the associated predators and parasites.

The plot does not have to be large, just big enough to hold 6-7 varieties of plants which attract insects. Once the garden has matured you can watch your personal insect security force do the work for you.

Cedar Potting Bench

Jora Composter

pictured below, left to right: Statice, Lupin, Tansy, Queen Anne’s Lace, Sunflower

“Mini Insectary” Plants

Achillea filipendulina
Alyssum
Amaranthus
Anethum graveolens (Dill)
Angelica gigas
Convolvulus minor
Coreopsis
Cosmos bipinnatus
Digitalis
Daucus Carota (Queen Anne’s lace)
Foeniculum vulgare (Fennel)
Helianthus annulus
Iberis umbellata
Limonium latifolium (Statice)
Lupin
Melissa officinalis (Lemon balm)
Petroselinum crispum (Parsley)
Scabiosa (Pincushion flower)
Shasta Daisy
Sunflowers
Tanacetum vulgare (Tansy)
Verbascum thaspus
Yarrow Beneficial Predators Attracted

Lacewings, Aphidius, Ladybugs
Hoverflies, Lacewings, Tachnid flies
Ground beetles
Ichneumon wasp, Ladybugs, Lacewings
Lacewings
Ladybugs, Hoverflies
Hoverflies, Lacewings, Parasitic wasps
Hoverflies, Parasitic wasps, Lacewings
Dicyphus
Lacewings, Ladybugs, Hoverflies
Damsel bugs, Ladybugs, Lacewings
Pirate bugs, Beneficial mites
Hoverflies
Hoverflies, Parasitic wasps
Aphidius, Aphidoletes, Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps, tachinid flies
Parasitic wasps, hoverflies, tachinid flies
Hoverflies, Parasitic wasps
Pirate bugs, Beneficial mites
Pirate bugs, Aphidius, Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs, Lacewings
Dicyphus
Hoverflies, Parasitic wasps, Ladybugs

Beneficial Predators

Aphidius
Aphidoletes
Beneficial mites
Damsel Bugs (Nabidae)
Dicyphus
Ground Beetles
Hoverflies
Lacewings
Ladybugs
Pirate Bugs
Tachinid flies
Wasps (parasitic) Prey

Aphids
Aphids
Thrips, spidermite, fungus gnats
Eggs of many pest insects
Whiteflies, aphids, thrips, spider mites
Slugs, small caterpillars and grubs
Aphids, mealybugs and others
Scale, aphids, mites, softbodied insects
Aphids, mites
Thrips, aphids, mites, scales, whiteflies
Caterpillars, beetle and fly larvae
Whiteflies, moth, beetle and fly larvae
pictured above, left to right: ichneumon wasp, lacewing, pirate bug, hoverfly, damsel bug

Tips and suggestions:

~ Intersperse vegetable beds with rows or islands of insectary annuals. This will add decorative elements to your vegetable beds while luring beneficials toward prey.
~ Allow some of your salad and cabbage crops to bloom. Brassica flowers (cabbage, broccoli, brussel sprouts, bok choy) are also attractive to beneficial insects.
~ Include plants of different heights in your insectary. Ground beetles require the cover provided by low-growing plants such as thyme, rosemary, or mint. Lacewings lay their eggs in shady, protected areas, so providing such places near crop plants is a good idea.
~ Tiny flowers produced in large quantity are much more valuable than a single, large bloom. Large, nectar-filled blooms actually can drown tiny parasitoid wasps.
~ Members of the Umbelliferae family are excellent insectary plants. Fennel, angelica, coriander, dill, and wild carrot all produce the tiny flowers required by parasitoid wasps.
~ Composite flowers (daisy and chamomile) and mints (spearmint, peppermint, or catnip) will attract predatory wasps, hoverflies, and robber flies.
~ Grow green manure. Clover and vetch, commonly used as cover crops for soil enhancement, are also effective insectary plants.
~ Herbs (coriander, dill and fennel) will attract hoverflies, lacewings, ladybugs and tachnid flies to your garden. Coriander (cilantro) is one of the top insectary plants. Caraway, chervil, dill, fennel and parsley flowers are also valued insectary plants.

A garden insectary should be thought of as a long-term permanent component of your garden. Results are not instant and conclusive; rather, the benefits to your garden are cumulative. As your plantings mature and resident populations of beneficial insects are established, the need for chemical pesticides and other agressive insect control techniques will diminish. Your garden will become a more natural and balanced environment for the healthy production of vegetables and flowers.

http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/11/transition-towns-%E2%80%93-preparing-for-a-self-sufficient-community-based-future/

Transition Towns – preparing for a self-sufficient community-based future

transition-towns_largeWhile leaders in all levels of government discuss the realities of global economic distress, uncertain future energy supplies, and the overarching threat of climate change, a quiet evolution is making real progress in developing strategies to help us transform our communities to adapt to these upcoming challenges.

In over 150 cities in 14 countries, ‘Transition Town’ communities are raising awareness of the threats associated with peak oil and climate change, and taking practical steps to prepare for a post-industrial future. And rather than dwell on bleak scenarios, participants in this grass-roots movement see future communities being more connected, more vibrant and more in touch with our environment than we see today.

Each Transition Town is independent, developing its own plans and working on its own priorities. But the common denominator of all Transition Towns is a bottom-up, participatory process for all major decisions in each community.

“If we collectively plan and act early enough there’s every likelihood that we can create a way of living that’s significantly more connected, more vibrant and more in touch with our environment than the oil-addicted treadmill that we find ourselves on today.”

Transition Towns website

Initiated by Louise Rooney and environmentalist Rob Hopkins in 2005, the “transition towns” movement is dedicated to drastically reducing carbon emissions on a local basis, developing alternatives to oil, and nurturing resilient local economies. Instead of looking to federal governments for money or leadership, transition towns are taking on the responsibility themselves. They are committed to working as communities to find new and better ways to live in harmony with nature while meeting essential needs.

Dealing with the threats of peak oil and a changing climate requires fundamental change, beginning with the notion of individual ‘well-being’ as dependent on material acquisition. This entails redefining the very nature of community and culture so that people can move beyond the ‘infinite-growth’ economic model and begin to develop more locally based lifestyles that are more self-reliant, interdependent and meaningful.

The key areas commonly examined are food, energy, transportation, local economics, communication, systems of care and the arts.

transition_townEach Transition Town has its own priorities and issues it is working on. For instance, Multnomah County in Oregon has launched the Multnomah Food Initiative – a public engagement process that will bring the community together to create a shared vision, shared goals, and the first comprehensive community food action plan in the nation.

In Santa Cruz, CA, they are holding a reskilling expo where people can learn about composting, beekeeping, water catchment and nonviolent communication, in addition to workshops about peak oil and local economics.

Folks in Newburyport, MA are hosting a climate change debate as part of a six part series on global warming and climate change.

Any town can become a Transition Town, regardless of size, demographics or political orientation. All that is required is an initiating group of individuals who come together to adopt the Transition Model, with the intention of engaging a significant proportion of the people in their community to kick off a Transition Initiative. The Transition Initiative is a comprehensive process of raising awareness, building bridges with existing community groups and local government, and forming groups to look at key areas of life which are impacted by climate change, with the goal of launching a community-defined “Energy Descent Action Plan” over a 15 – 20 year time span.

transitiontownWhile each community develops its own plans and priorities, the Transition Model provides a structure to help the process move forward. Participating communities are also encouraged to connect with other community transition initiatives to share ideas and experiences. This results in a coordinated range of projects across all energy-related areas of life that strives to rebuild the resilience we’ve lost as a result of cheap oil and reduce a community’s carbon emissions drastically.

Coordinating these initiatives and ensuring some uniformity of process has been the job of the Transition Network Ltd, a legally constituted charity that oversees the different forms of transition that seem appropriate to different scales of action: towns, cities, counties, countries. Its stated intention is to “inspire, encourage, support, network and train communities as they adopt the Transition model in response to peak oil and climate change, building resilience and happiness”.

In 2008 The Transition Handbook, written by Hopkins, was published by Green Books, and it has become the guide for communities seeking to participate in the transition to sustainability.

The Transition Network suggests a list of seven principles of transition that enable a diversified response grounded in the local context. These are:

* Positive Visioning: Transition initiatives are based on a dedication to the creation of tangible, clearly expressed and practical visions of community life beyond dependence on fossil fuels.
* Trust and Empowerment: Transition initiatives are based on telling people the closest version of the truth that we know in times when the information available is deeply contradictory, and then empowering appropriate responses.
* Inclusion and Openness: Successful Transition initiatives depend on the unprecedented coming together of diverse sections of society.
* Sharing and Networking: Information sharing and learning are key principles of resilient ecologies that are central to transition.
* Building Resilience: How communities respond to shocks is critical to the transitional path beyond fossil-fuel dependency. The movement is explicit in its intention to build resilience across key economic sectors (including food, energy and transport) and across a range of appropriate scales – from local to national.
* Inner and outer transition: Transition is a catalyst to shifting values and unleashing the energy and creativity of people to do what they are passionate about.
* Subsidiarity: Self-organization and decision making at the appropriate scale are key principles drawn from resilient ecological systems.

Participants find the process of developing a Transition Initiative empowering. Envisioning how communities can come together in adapting to new ways of supporting each other is a positive step in bringing cooperation on par with competition. People imagine a future with healthy communities, where there’s less need to commute, where neighbors know each other, where business is local and people have skills that they are sharing. And although it will take big changes and considerable economic rebuilding before communities can successfully adapt to more limited resources, taking the first visioning steps is a practical tonic to the stress we carry under the weight of awareness about climate change.

“We truly don’t know if this will work. Transition is a social experiment on a massive scale. What we are convinced of is this: if we wait for the governments, it’ll be too little, too late; if we act as individuals, it’ll be too little; but if we act as communities, it might just be enough, just in time.”

Transition Towns website

Transition Towns Wiki
Related articles:

1. Hydrogen – fuel of the future?
2. Future Farming: Planning now to prevent a national food crisis
3. 9 ways NASA can help fight Climate Change
4. Corn-based fuel fares poorly in new analysis
5. Can one crisis lead the way to recovery from another?
6. Feeding Our Future

http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/10/making-your-own-apple-juice/

Making your own apple juice

Turning windfalls into autumn’s elixir…
By Lindsay Seaman, Eartheasy Posted Oct 29, 2009

applejuice_bigAs anyone who has fruit trees knows, a lot of fruit goes to waste. Woodpecker holes, worm holes, bug damage and bruises occur on a considerable portion of the harvest. Imperfect fruit will not last in storage and can ruin other fruit it is stored with. A great way to avoid this waste is to make your own juice.

And the benefits of juicing are not limited to those with fruit trees in their yard or orchard. Just visit a farmer’s market at the close of day on any autumn weekend, or check in with your local produce mart; there’s often a surplus of fruit which may be overripe, bruised or flawed. Or you can visit any farm or orchard and ask to gather windfalls. The eager gleaner can usually come home with a free load of imperfect apples.

Converting our surplus apples into juice seemed to make good sense

Although we’ve had our own small orchard for many years, we’ve never really had an over-abundance of apples. Our growing family kept ahead of the harvest, we were able to store many as winter keepers, and the raccoons and woodpeckers took care of the windfalls. The damaged fruit we collected was usually made into apple sauce or apple crisps. But this year an unusually large fruit set, coupled with the kids now grown and out of the home, had us thinking beyond apple sauce. Converting our surplus apples into juice seemed to make good sense.

Juicing fruit:

* Is economical, as organic juices are expensive.
* Is practical. The juice is easy to store, and the leftover pulp can be dried into fruit leather or added to the compost.
* Encourages the family to consume more fruit.
* Involves children in a rewarding project. They can see the end reward of caring for your fruit trees all year.
* Is a good use for early summer apples which may not store well, like Transparents and Gravensteins
* Creates a very tasty beverage.

Being convinced of the merits of this idea, I decided to give juicing a try. My neighbour and garden mentor makes juice and wines from his produce so he gave me advice on getting started. He loaned me his German AEG macerating juicer (250 amps) which has a small motor and feeding chute. The small feeding chute, about 2” diameter, required cutting the apples into smaller chunks, about 2”cubed. The juicing process seemed to go quickly with about 7 minutes of feeding for one quart of juice, approximately 6-7 apples.

I would suggest borrowing a juicer as we did for your first try at juicing. It will give you a feel for the process and help you make a more informed decision about whether to get your own juicer and how large it should be.

The biggest time consumer was preparing the fruit before juicing.

The biggest time consumer was preparing the fruit before juicing. I had to trim rotten spots and cut the rest into a big bowl. From there my right hand would grab a handful of chunks and toss them into the chute, while my left hand would propel the plastic plunger and fruit toward the whirling disk. The juice would spurt to the left into a container and the seeds and fibre flowed into a container attached to the right side. This I would empty every half hour or so. The pulp residue could be a good contribution to the compost or the chicken yard, or it can also be spread onto a cookie sheet and dried into fruit leather. To keep things simple, I composted the pulp.

pouring_juiceI was surprised that there was so much foam on top of the juice, which I skimmed with a slotted spoon. Also, at the bottom of a quart of juice would be about 1/2” of sediment, which is perfectly drinkable, but might not be appealing to some folks. Pouring the juice through a cheesecloth-lined sieve would remove much of the foam and sediment.

My small initial experiment yielded 7 quart jars of beautiful rose-hued apple juice. To ensure safe storage I decided to can them. (Beware, once you start juicing, you can’t stop.) My canning books advised heating the juice in a big pot until 200F./93C., but not to boil, then pour into hot, sterilized jars leaving ½” headroom, cap with hot lids, and process in a boiling water bath for 30 minutes. The water should be 190F. And cover tops of jars one or two inches. This is pasteurization.

Other options are:

* Store in fridge up to 7 days
* Freeze up to a year
* Pasteurize to 160F., which will give the juice a fridge life of up to 3 weeks

My conclusions about the process were mixed. It was most satisfying to get this beautiful pale pink juice from my windfall apples. My husband says the taste is incomparable to store-bought juice, and I modestly have to agree. The juice is truly autumn’s elixir. And it’s no problem encouraging people to eat more apples (a constant meme at our home this time of year) – everyone who visits wants a glass. And another.

But the process needs streamlining before I jump into juicing on a larger scale. It was quite a production with foam and pulp abounding, and took time to clean up. The bottleneck was the small 2” feed chute on the little juicer. This not only slowed the process of juicing, it added greatly to the preparation time since the apples had to cut into small pieces. It became readily apparent that a larger juicer would better suit my needs.

glassofjuiceSo, I went to the internet to find a model which would improve the process. A tip: the term “juice extractor” produced more results than” fruit juicer”. Generally I learned about these types: macerating, centrifugal, and large types, often home-made, which grind or crush the fruit and then press the juice out. The first two types are usually smaller counter-top models, and suitable for the non-commercial home juicer. Of these, my research points to the three centrifugal “Juice Fountains”, manufactured by Breville, as the best choice for home juicing. These powerful models range from 850 W. to 1000W. From independent reviews on Amazon.com and others and from the manufacturer’s claims they sound fast (8 oz. of apple juice in 5 seconds); handle whole or large chunks of produce; are easy to assemble and clean; and are made using durable and rust-free components. The cost for the mid-range model is about $300.

So if you’re interested in enjoying fresh wholesome juice from your gathered fruit, I suggest you start small with a borrowed juicer if possible, and then you’ll have a good idea of what the ideal juicer is for your needs. When you decide on the right model, you can go in on the purchase with a few friends, since juicing is a seasonal activity and the machine can be passed around as needed. It might also be a fun group activity to get together and divide the tasks working with friends. In either case, you’ll find that making your own juice can be thrifty, healthy and fun.

jar_of_juice

1. Five easy ways to go organic
2. How a plate of fruit can change the world
3. Canning tips you may not see in the manual
4. Fruits and vegetables yielding fewer nutrients than in the past
5. Our experience with a solar powered refrigerator
6. The 100-mile diet

http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/10/taking-urban-farming-to-the-next-level/

Taking urban farming to the next level

Urban farmer Novella Carpenter experiments with raising farm animals such as pigs, turkeys, geese and rabbits within the Oakland city limits.
By Twilight Greenaway, Culinate Posted Oct 19, 2009

This story first appeared in Culinate.

Most urban farmers confine their agricultural efforts to vegetables, fruit, and the occasional egg-laying chicken. But on her small plot in Oakland, California, Novella Carpenter has raised bees, goats, rabbits, geese, and turkey, among other fauna.

A graduate of the Berkeley Graduate School of Journalism, where she studied with Michael Pollan, Carpenter now writes about urban farming and sustainable-food production for various publications, including her blog, Ghost Town Farm. Her memoir, Farm City, came out this summer from Penguin Press.

Twilight Greenaway: Why did you want to start a farm in the city, rather than moving to a rural area?

Novella Carpenter: I think people have a lot of nostalgia and yearning for these pastoral places, but my parents did that — they were back-to-the-land hippies in the 1970s — and it quickly became clear to me that city people moving to the country is kind of a horrible idea. They don’t usually have any skills, for one.

I grew up in Idaho till age six, then moved to Shelton, Washington, which had a population of only 7,000. It was isolated. So when people tell me they’re planning to move to the country, I say, “You’re going to have great food, but you’re not going to have anyone to share it with.”

TG: What percentage of the food that you eat comes from your farm?

NC: I’d say around 50 percent. This Thanksgiving, we raised our own turkey, so that was our contribution to the meal we ate with friends.

TG: What would have to happen for urban farming to really take off in the U.S.?

NC: They would have to drop a lot of the regulations and laws that exist to stop people from doing it. From what I understand, the dualism between the city and the farm has been created by laws, and often they’re anti-immigrant laws.

During the Second World War and after, there were lots of immigrants who moved to cities to work in factories, and often they wanted to bring their animals with them. Italians would want to have rabbits, and people from the South would want to have chickens. So some laws would have to change to make it more possible for more people to keep animals.

It would be great to section off whole parts of cities for people who wanted to have small farms — a kind of farm zone. Attitudes would have to change, too. People would have to stop seeing the “city” and the “country” in such a dualistic way. In Missoula, Montana, there’s a battle going on right now between the people who want to have chickens in the city and those who are violently opposed to it.

People usually do more urban farming in times of economic depression, so who knows? Maybe things will get so bad that everyone will start farming in cities again.

TG: What are the biggest challenges you face in maintaining an urban farm?

NC: Learning to take care of animals is a challenge, but it’s also where you learn the most. I’ve tried raising basically everything short of a cow; they need too much space.

You really have to be in a different zone to take care of animals; sometimes city life just isn’t conducive. If your goat is giving birth, it’s not like you can go to work. So there’s a tradeoff, but I think it’s an all an adjustment, and many people do figure it out.

When people ask how to begin, I always tell them to start slow: try bees, and then chickens. My recent acquisition was to get some goats, but I was thinking, “Wow, if I had gotten the goat, the rabbit, and the geese all at the same time, it would have been a total disaster.”

TG: What was your goal in writing the memoir?

NC: The goal is just to tell the story of one urban farm and the characters that I encounter while farming. It’s a portrait of a time. I also do a lot of describing processes; I think there’s a real hunger for that kind of book. It’s a little like 1,001 Things Your Grandpa Used To Do. Now I’m working on a proposal for a how-to book, because I think people want to know more details.

TG: Where is the line between stepping backwards, or returning to ways we did things in the past, versus moving forward and doing new things with food production?

NC: Some people see what I’m doing as a revival. And it’s true, in a way; it is kind of like going backwards. The difference is, things are so much easier because of the Internet, in terms of knowledge. When I was trying to figure out how to kill my rabbits, I eventually found out some really great instructions on a website. I can order day-old chicks on the Internet and get them the next day in the mail. So it’s not like I’m trying to live in the Stone Age.

There’s also this huge waste stream that wasn’t there when grandpa was alive. Now you can go to the dumpster at the organic grocery store, and it’s just brimming with food to feed your chickens or rabbits.

It’s not like I’m trying to become totally self-sufficient as a hobby; I think that’s kind of a ridiculous goal. But I do believe in using what I have. For instance, I’m going to make soap with the tallow from my goat. And I have rabbits we kill for meat, so I have all these pelts, and I’m learning how to tan them, because throwing them in the compost would just be wrong. Living like this opens you up to the full cycle of life of the animal.

Twilight Greenaway works for the Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA), where she writes about efforts to create a more sustainable food system throughout the Bay Area.
Related articles:

1. Urban Beekeeping – the latest buzz
2. Future Farming: Planning now to prevent a national food crisis
3. Can organic farming feed the world?
4. The New Rules of Food
5. Feeding Our Future
6. Fair Food Farmstead – providing accessibility to locally grown food

http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/09/geoengineering-will-schemes-to-reverse-global-warming-do-more-harm-than-good/

Geoengineering – will schemes to reverse global warming do more harm than good?

Perhaps we had better use our energies to adapt and leave nature to take its course.
By James Lovelock, The Guardian Posted Sep 29, 2009

The idea of serious scientists and engineers gathering to discuss schemes for controlling the world’s climate would a mere 10 years ago have seemed bizarre, or something from science fiction. But now, well into the 21st century, we are slowly and reluctantly starting to realise that global heating is real. We may have cool, wet summers in the UK, but we are fortunate compared with the Inuit, who see their habitat melting, and Australians and Africans who suffer intensifying heat and drought. We should not be surprised that public policy is edging ever nearer to geoengineering, the therapy our scientists are considering for a fevered planet.

Our senior scientific society, the Royal Society, met at the start of the month to launch the report “Geoengineering the Climate” and to hear from its representative scientists. The meeting was hosted by the president, Lord Rees, and the chairman was Professor John Shepherd, who chaired the study group. The goal, as Prof Shepherd explained in the Guardian in April, was to investigate theories of “intervening directly to engineer the climate system, so as to moderate the rise of temperature” and to “separate the real science from the science fiction”.

Geoengineering is about deliberately changing the air, oceans or land surface of the world to offset global heating with the hope of restoring the cooler world we enjoyed in the last century. We are now fairly sure that the Earth has grown hotter by about one degree Celsius as a consequence of our own action in taking away as farmland the forests and other ecosystems that previously acted to keep the Earth cool. We also have increased by 6% the flow of CO2 into the air by burning coal, oil and natural gas. If we started global heating, can we reverse it by engineering?

The first scientist to consider geoengineering seriously was the Russian geophysicist Mikhail Budyko. In the 1970s he proposed that we could offset global heating by spreading in the stratosphere a fine dispersion of particles that reflected sunlight back to space; he based the idea on the observation that volcanic eruptions that did this were followed by global-scale cooling. He suggested that we could mimic the effects of a volcanic eruption by putting an aerosol into the stratosphere. His idea was confirmed by the detailed observations and analysis of the effect of Mount Pinatubo’s eruption in 1991. It injected 20m tonnes of sulphur dioxide into the stratosphere and this soon oxidised to form the white reflecting particles that offset global heating for three years. It is within our capacity to put this much sulphur dioxide into the stratosphere.

There are other ways of reflecting sunlight: large mirrors or diffusers of sunlight put in orbit around the sun. One of the more promising and controllable reflection methods was put forward by John Latham and Stephen Salter, who proposed spraying very fine droplets of sea water from the ocean surface to make the natural surface clouds, called marine stratus, whiter.

As well as cooling by reflecting sunlight away we could cool by removing the carbon dioxide or methane from the air. Klaus Lackner has proposed making artificial trees to do this; others, following the lead of Johannes Lehmann, would sooner see vegetation capture CO2 and then, after harvest, turn the plant waste into charcoal and bury it.

Geoengineering is like trying to cure pneumonia by immersing the patient in a bath of icy water; the fever would be cured but not the disease.

Geoengineering implies that we have an ailing planet that needs a cure. But our ignorance of the Earth system is great; we know little more than an early 19th-century physician knew about the body. Geoengineering is like trying to cure pneumonia by immersing the patient in a bath of icy water; the fever would be cured but not the disease.

Many of us feel a sense of unease about using geoengineering to escape global heating. Most of the planetary therapies have side effects, potentially as severe as the disease itself. We know that the cooling by Pinatubo was accompanied by droughts; cooling alone does nothing to prevent the ocean growing ever more acid as the carbon dioxide dissolves in the water.

Before long, global heating could reach a level that makes geoengineering an enticing option. Indeed, cautiously applied it may help by buying us time either to adapt to climate change or to develop a practical scientific cure. We have, as yet, no comprehensive Earth system science; in such ignorance I cannot help feeling that attempts by us to regulate the Earth’s climate and chemistry would condemn humanity to a Kafkaesque fate from which there may be no escape. Better, perhaps, to learn from the wiser physicians of the early 19th century; they knew no cure for common diseases but also knew that by letting nature take its course, the patient often recovered. Perhaps we, too, had better use our energies to adapt and leave recovery to Gaia; after all, she has survived more than three billion years and has kept life going all that time.

James Lovelock is an independent scientist, author, researcher, environmentalist and futurist. He proposed the Gaia hypothesis, in which the Earth functions as a superorganism. His most recent book is The Vanishing Face of Gaia: A Final Warning.
Related articles:

1. Global Warming: background
2. Global Warming / Climate Change: What we can do about it
3. Geoengineering: Time to get serious?
4. Glacial rock dust boosts vegetable growth, and helps to mitigate global warming
5. Climate Change Threats Can Be Stabilized
6. 9 ways NASA can help fight Climate Change

http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/06/organic-mulches-and-compost-%E2%80%93-good-for-your-plants-and-even-better-for-the-soil/

Organic Mulches and Compost – good for your plants and even better for the soil

The former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden explains the benefits of using organic mulches and compost.
By Jonathan Yaakobi Posted Jun 1, 2009

Applying chemical fertilizer in the garden, supplies the mineral nutrient that the plants need for their growth and development in the cheapest and most convenient way. Organic additives whether dug into the soil like compost, or spread on top of it like mulch, also supply mineral nutrient, but at greater cost, labor and effort. Why then should the organic method be preferred to the chemical one? The reason is that organic matter in sufficient quantities, improves the condition of the soil especially in the long term. Remember that the soil is the habitat in which your garden plants grow, and ultimately, poor soil conditions result in unsatisfactory plant development, irrespective of how much fertilizer is thrown in.

The benefits of high organic percentages in the soil can be summarized as follows:

* The improved supply of oxygen available to the plants’ roots in heavy, clay soils as a result of the crumbly soil structure that develops.
* The improved retention of water and nutrients in light, sandy soils.
* The enrichment of the micro-flora and fauna of the soil. The expanding variety and quantity of micro-organisms actually improves plant nutrition, because while plants absorb nutrients in the form of dissolved mineral salts, nutrient take-up is associated in many ways with the activity of microbes. The association of legumes with Ryzobium bacteria to make nitrogen available to the plants, is but one example.
* The supplying of raw material to larger organisms such as earthworms to establish themselves in the garden. The earthworm is undoubtedly the greatest gardener in the world, which by its activities, aerates the soil, improves its crumbly structure and causes nutrients to be released, thus increasing their availability. It should be noted that earthworm populations in the earth decline and disappear as more chemical fertilizer is used.
* The increasing range and volume of micro-biotic activity creates a healthier ecological balance in the soil. Consequently, pest and disease infestations are reduced to manageable proportions as the populations of pathogenic organisms are controlled.

The importance of organic mulch in hot, dry climates

The benefits of organic mulch materials such as wood chippings have been written about extensively, particularly with regard to weed prevention and water retention in hot weather. Less known perhaps is the role mulch plays in regulating the temperature at the soil’s surface. In hot dry and Mediterranean climates, exposed soil can reach temperatures of 50c in the summer. In these conditions not only do the plants directly suffer, but micro-biotic activity virtually ceases as well, thereby hindering the absorption of nutrients by the plants’ roots.

Furthermore, mulch prevents the excessive drying out of the soil at depths of say 20-50cm, which is common in hot regions as a result of the cracks formed at the soil’s surface. Apart from reducing the loss of moisture through evaporation, the mulch layer, slows down the breakdown of organic matter (humus). Experiments in Israel have shown that a soil well composted in the winter, can contain virtually no humus at the end of the summer, when that soil is unprotected. By way of comparison, in cool climates, humus percentages of 15-20% are quite normal even without the addition of compost.

In conclusion it can be seen that feeding, composting and mulching are horticultural tasks that work together. Compost releases small amounts of nutrient available for the plants to take-up, but it improves the soil in the short term and prevents it from degenerating in the long term. Organic mulch not only provides better conditions in which the plants grow, it also protects the top soil from the effects of sun, wind and rain, and further ensures that the soil will have a larger percentage of the organic matter so crucial to its health and the life it contains.

Article by Jonathan Yaakobi, a professional gardener since 1984. The former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, Mr. Yaakobi now concentrates on building gardens for private home owners and teaches horticulture to students on training courses. Visit his site at: http://www.dryclimategardening.com
Related articles:

1. Organic produce may soon be cheaper than conventional produce
2. New Year’s seed starting mix
3. No-till Gardening
4. Organic Seeds Basics
5. Garden projects for early spring
6. Fruits and vegetables yielding fewer nutrients than in the past

http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/06/what-its-like-living-off-grid/

What It’s Like Living Off-Grid

In the summer of 1980, my wife, three-month old son and I moved “off-grid”. We loved living in San Francisco but wanted to live a simpler, more independent lifestyle…
By Greg Seaman Posted Jun 9, 2009

In the summer of 1980, my wife, three-month old son and I moved “off-grid”. We loved living in San Francisco but wanted to live a simpler, more independent lifestyle, and so we bought a small cabin with land on a rural island in the Pacific Northwest. Since there were no services to the island, our home had no electricity. Residents of the island had to create their own electricity or do without.

Now here I sit, almost 30 years later, with the kids grown and their rooms empty, and with some time to reflect on our experience living and raising a family off-grid. But before even considering the challenges and solutions in dealing with our energy needs over the years, one observation seems to leap out: how little things here have changed. We’ve done very little over the years to enhance our energy needs, aside from installing two solar panels last year to power the computer I’m using to write this article. (Alongside my computer on the table here is a kerosene lamp, and a candle for added light.) This lack of change is testament to the feasibility of off-grid living, and my vision for the upcoming years is to keep things pretty much the way they are.

But keeping it simple hasn’t always been simple. We had to learn alternate methods of preserving food, how to build things without power tools, how to cook on a wood stove, how to clean diapers without a washing machine, entertain ourselves without TV, and accept that many common tasks can take longer and be more difficult without electricity. Here are the main challenges we encountered in living off-grid, and how we managed with them.
Lighting

The biggest difficulty we had living off-grid was, and continues to be, lighting. Our home has two small propane lamps over the cooking areas, but we use them sparingly because we have to pack in the propane tanks, and propane is expensive. Our general room lighting is by kerosene lamps, which give off marginal quality light and fumes if the wicks are not carefully trimmed. We also used candles, and are lucky we didn’t burn our place down. We arranged the furniture to make best use of available natural light from the windows. Over time, we adapted our habits to the natural light patterns in nature, e.g. you don’t stay up till midnight reading a novel.

We tried solar power for lights but found that when we need light the most, in winter, there was the least amount of solar energy available. The development of LED bulbs is promising, however, because they require much less energy. Today, we use little ‘clip-on’ book lights with small LED bulbs which are powered by rechargeable AA batteries. These are very efficient and have made things easier and safer for reading and for small task lighting. Our son Ben is installing indoor fixtures for LED area lights which we’ll be testing this winter. We also use LED headlamps when going outdoors at night.
Refrigeration

I remember being at the dock with my wife one hot summer day and seeing a tourist sipping a drink on the deck of his yacht. My wife looked at the drink and said “Looks good!” The tourist said “Well, come aboard and I’ll fix you a drink.” “Oh” my wife said, “I was referring to the ice cubes, not the booze!”. He then proceeded to his on-board ice-maker and gave us a sack of ice. As we hurriedly rowed home before it melted, we thought it curious that his boat had more modern amenities than our home.

Life without ice, or refrigeration, takes some getting used to. No ice cream in summer, no cold beer, no easy way of dealing with food leftovers. But this is only in summer; the rest of the year we have our pantry which keeps things cool and preserved long enough for our needs. Most of the food we eat is fresh from the garden or the sea, or preserved in jars in the pantry. A few years ago I bought a half-sized used RV refrigerator which runs on propane. We use this in the hottest weeks of summer or when guests arrive; a 20-lb propane tank keeps it running for about 3 weeks. But I don’t like running this appliance with its little pilot light flame so close to our cedar house. Ideally, we would use a solar powered refrigerator, but they are very expensive.
Washing Clothes

The only way I could get my wife to participate in an off-grid lifestyle was to help her with the menial tasks which modern appliances were designed to handle. So I enthusiastically set up a cast iron bathtub out in the garden with a fire underneath, propped up an old-fashioned washboard, and started washing the baby diapers by hand. After a few sessions of this I gave up. You don`t need the details – it was too much work and they didn`t get clean enough. (Our neighbours would dye their diapers yellow to make them look a little better.) After trying a few other ideas, we settled on taking our dirty clothes to the Laundromat each time we would go off-island to the nearest town. This worked well, and was a great chance to socialize with other islanders who were doing the same thing. However, it meant we had to own more clothes, and buy more diapers, since it could be as long as a month between trips to town. Today there are very efficient mini-washers which require very little energy to run, and this is a solution for some people who live off-grid.
Cooking

To our constant delight, cooking ‘off-grid’ seems to deliver the best tasting meals with relatively little work. We use an old-fashioned wood cookstove which is as easy to use as a modern gas or electric range. And besides providing an ideal cooking surface and oven, the stove also provides us with hot water via the water jacket in the firebox. The cookstove is an Elmira Oval, and it reaches 350 degrees within 20 minutes.

Our home also has a wood heater, and in winter we use this for cooking. It has a large flat top which can hold 4 or 5 saucepans. We’ve become adept at cooking on this heater, thereby saving the firewood needed for the cookstove.

For quick hot meals, or a cup of tea before the stove heats up, we have a small two-burner propane stove similar to those used for camping. We use this in the summer during fire season.

Food seems to be center of life here, and when the cook is at work there is a tangible reverence in the air. Our cookstove is at the heart of our family life – we love to hear the crackling fire and whiff the scents from the oven curling through the room. And is there any smell more wonderful than fresh baked bread?

We realize that cooking with wood is not ideal from an environmental perspective, and we look for ways to be more efficient when using the cookstove. We may prepare several meals at once, we almost always eat together, and we use only well-seasoned wood. We’ve also learned to be patient in off-grid cooking – water doesn’t boil as fast in winter.
Building

Before we moved to our island home, an old man gave me his collection of antique hand tools, which have since been put to good use. Learning to use hand tools was fundamental to getting anything built or fixed, since we did not have a generator to run power tools. Fortunately I had the benefit of learning from an old-timer in the community who was skilled in woodworking using only simple, common hand tools. Through his example, one could see that many carpentry jobs could actually be done as fast or faster than by using power tools – as well as safer, quieter, cheaper and more satisfying. But this was not the case with all jobs. If a long board needed to be perfectly ripped or planed, I would carry it to a neighbor who lived about a mile away with a fully powered workshop.

An invaluable tool for building has been the chainsaw. Besides being essential for cutting firewood, the chainsaw is very handy for many carpentry/building tasks. All the beams and timbers used in rebuilding and adding on to our house were cut with a chainsaw. Also, there are building methods which we used, such as post and beam construction, which lend themselves more to chainsaw/hand tool methods.

There have been some downsides to being limited to hand tools. While some tasks are done quickly using hand tools, most projects do take longer without power tools, and the finished work is not as perfect. I’ve been building my 1200 sq ft home for 29 years and it’s still not done.
Entertainment

Living without the TV, movies and video games while raising children was not a problem. We had board games, crafts, musical instruments, books and all sorts of natural learning materials. Every night my wife would read a book out loud for an hour. Playing together in the evenings was special family time, and the kids never asked for TV.

After we had been living off-grid for seven or eight years, my father-in-law brought us a small black/white TV with a 12v battery. It felt like an intrusion at first, but the only channel we could get showed reruns of Sesame Street, which we found entertaining and instructive for our younger child. This didn’t last long however, since taking the battery to the store for recharging became too tedious. Eventually we broke down and bought a small Honda 350 generator, about the size of a toaster, but it didn’t run right. So we had it repaired and it worked a few more times then quit again for good. In retrospect, we went to a lot of work and expense, and waste, for a few Sesame Street shows.

It seems to follow that when children create their own games and play, they’re more likely to use their own imagination and develop independent thinking skills later in life. Being able to raise children with our own values, and without the distraction of electronic entertainment, was one of the main reasons we wanted to live off-grid.
In conclusion

Our experience living off-grid is neither unique nor stereotypical. Although our community has no electric service, different homes have different degrees of self-generated electricity. Some people have wind generators, others have solar arrays or micro-hydro runs on small streams that provide their power needs. Some residents have big TVs, washing machines, freezers, power tools and all the amenities. With recent advances in efficient appliances and technologies, “off-grid” living can be the same as living anywhere else. But for our family, we felt there was more to be learned by building things by hand, creating our own family culture, and trying to live a little more at the pace of nature. By keeping things simple, we had to rely on each other more to put food on the table and to get things done, and this helped empower the children. As young adults today, I see they are resourceful, independent and confident.

So if you are thinking of living off-grid, I suggest you start simple, and gradually ‘power up’ if needs increase. And as you evaluate future electric needs, keep in mind what you may be losing as well.

After all these years, our home is still not finished, but every board has a story to tell.

Greg Seaman, the founder and editor of Eartheasy.
Related articles:

1. Choosing Land for Homestead Living
2. Our experience with a solar powered refrigerator
3. Warming up to solar ovens
4. Living Large in a Tiny House
5. More, Better, Faster – living at digital hyperspeed
6. Induction Cooking

http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/05/the-top-10-plants-for-removing-indoor-toxins/

The Top 10 Plants for Removing Indoor Toxins

A recent NASA study has determined the top 10 plants for reducing indoor air pollution.
By Greg Seaman Posted May 13, 2009

Common indoor plants may provide a valuable weapon in the fight against rising levels of indoor air pollution. NASA scientists are finding them to be surprisingly useful in absorbing potentially harmful gases and cleaning the air inside homes, indoor public spaces and office buildings.

The indoor pollutants that affect health are formaldehyde, Volatile Organic Compounds (benzene and trichloroethylene or TCE), airborne biological pollutants, carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides, pesticides and disinfectants (phenols), and radon. These pollutants contribute to ’sick building syndrome’, which causes symptoms ranging from allergies, headaches and fatigue through to nervous-system disorders, cancer and death.

Through studies conducted by NASA, scientists have identified 50 houseplants that remove many of the pollutants and gases mentioned above. Dr. B. C. Wolverton rated these plants for removing chemical vapors, ease of growth, resistance to insect problems, and transpiration (the amount of water they expire into the air).

NASA, with assistance from the Associated Landscape Contractors of America, conducted a two-year study directed by Dr. B.C. Wolverton, an environmental engineer from Picayune, Miss. Wolverton has worked as a research scientist for NASA for some 20 years. His study, in the late ’80s and early ’90s, of the interaction of plants and air found that houseplants, when placed in sealed chambers in the presence of specific chemicals, removed those chemicals from the chambers.

Dr. B.C. Wolverton, researcher and author of “How to Grow Fresh Air — 50 Houseplants that Purify Your Home or Office” (1997, Penguin paperback, $15.95), conducted plant studies for NASA that determined that plants can clean pollutants in homes, offices, factories and retail outlets.

Later, Wolverton expanded the study and assigned plants a rating from one to 10, based on a plant’s ability to remove chemical vapors or indoor air toxins, ease of growth and maintenance, resistance to insect infestation and the rate at which water evaporates from the leaves.

Dr. B.C.Wolverton’s book, “How to Grow Fresh Air”, is available in book stores, directly from Penguin books, New York (1-800-526-0275) or online at websites such as www.amazon.com and www.bn.com.

The source report is not available on NASA’s website.

Top ten plants for removing formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from the air:

1. Areca Palm (Chrysalidocarpus lutescens)

Also called the “Butterfly Palm”. An upright houseplant that is somewhat vase shaped. Specimen plants can reach 10 to 12 foot in height. Prefers a humid area to avoid tip damage. Requires pruning. When selecting an Areca palm look for plants with larger caliber trunks at the base of the plant. Plants that have pencil thin stems tend to topple over and are quite difficult to maintain.

2. Lady Palm (Rhapis excelsa)

Also called the “Lady Palm”, this durable palm species adapts well to most interiors. The Rhapis are some of the easiest palms to grow, but each species has its own particular environment and culture requirements. The “Lady Palm” grows slowly, but can grow to more than 14 in height with broad clumps often having a diameter as wide as their height.

3. Bamboo palm (Chamaedorea seifrizii)

Also called the “reed palm”, this palm prefers bright indirect light. New plants will lose of some interior foliage as they acclimate to indoor settings. This plant likes to stay uniformly moist, but does not like to be over-watered or to sit in standing water. Indoor palms may attract spider mites which can be controlled by spraying with a soapy solution.

4. Rubber Plant (Ficus robusta)

Grows very well indoors, preferring semi-sun lighting. Avoid direct sunlight, especially in summer. Young plants may need to be supported by a stake. The Ficus grows to 8’ with a spread of 5’. Wear gloves when pruning, as the milky sap may irritate the skin. Water thoroughly when in active growth, then allow the soil to become fairly dry before watering again. In winter keep slightly moist.

5. Dracaena “Janet Craig” (Dracaena deremensis)

The Dracaena grows to 10’ with a spread of 3’. Easy to grow, these plants do best in bright indirect sunlight coming from the east/west. They can adapt to lower light levels if the watering is reduced. Keep the soil evenly moist and mist frequently with warm water. Remove any dead leaves. Leaf tips will go brown if the plant is under watered but this browning may be trimmed.

6. Philodendron (Philodendron sp.)

One of the most durable of all house plants. Philodendrons prefer medium intensity light but will tolerate low light. Direct sun will burn the leaves and stunt plant growth. This plant is available in climbing and non-climbing varieties. When grown indoors, they need to be misted regularly and the leaves kept free of dust. Soil should be evenly moist, but allowed to dry between watering.

7. Dwarf Date Palm (Phoenix roebelenii)

A hardy, drought-tolerant and long-lived plant, the Dwarf Date Palm needs a bright spot which is free of drafts. It grows slowly, reaching heights of 8-10’. The Dwarf Date Palm should not be placed near children’s play areas because it has sharp needle-like spines arranged near the base of the leaf stem. These can easily penetrate skin and even protective clothing.

8. Ficus Alii (Ficus macleilandii “Alii”)

The Ficus Alii grows easily indoors, and resists insects. It prefers a humid environment and low to medium light when grown indoors. The Ficus Aliii should not be placed near heating or air conditioning vents, or near drafts because this could cause leaf loss. Soil should be kept moist but allowed to dry between watering.

9. Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata “Bostoniensis”)

The Boston fern grows to 4’ in height with a spread up to 5’. It has feathery ferns which are best displayed as a hanging plant. It prefers bright indirect sunlight. Keep the soil barely moist and mist frequently with warm water. This plant is prone to spider mites and whitefly which can be controlled using a soapy water spray. Inspect new plants for bugs before bringing them home.

10. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum “Mauna Loa”)

The Peace Lily is a compact plant which grows to a height of 3’ with a 2’ spread. This hardy plant tolerates neglect. It prefers indirect sunlight and high humidity, but needs to be placed out of drafts. For best results, the Peace Lily should be thoroughly watered, then allowed to go moderately dry between waterings. The leaves should be misted frequently with warm water.

1. Organic Mulches and Compost – good for your plants and even better for the soil
2. Monitoring the air quality in your home
3. No-till Gardening
4. Growing potatoes is easy …and so rewarding
5. Drought Survival for Lawns
6. Be alert to false product claims with bamboo textiles

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Energy Efficient Lighting

CFL and LED light bulbs

• Benefits of LED lightbulbs
• Choosing a LED bulb - different models
• LED terminology
• Benefits of CFL lightbulbs
• Choosing a CFL bulb
• Limitations, Disposal of CFLs

Compare the cost / benefit of
LED vs CFL vs Incandescent
light bulbs

Electric lighting burns up to 25% of the average home energy budget.

The electricity used over the lifetime of a single incandescent bulb costs 5 to 10 times the original purchase price of the bulb itself.

Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL) and Light Emitting Diode (LED) bulbs have revolutionized energy-efficient lighting.

CFLs are simply miniature versions of full-sized fluorescents. They screw into standard lamp sockets, and give off light that looks just like the common incandescent bulbs - not like the fluorescent lighting we associate with factories and schools.

LEDs are small, solid light bulbs which are extremely energy-efficient. New LED bulbs are grouped in clusters with diffuser lenses which have broadened the applications for LED use in the home.

LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) are solid light bulbs which are extremely energy-efficient. Until recently, LEDs were limited to single-bulb use in applications such as instrument panels, electronics, pen lights and, more recently, strings of indoor and outdoor Christmas lights.
Manufacturers have expanded the application of LEDs by “clustering” the small bulbs. The first clustered bulbs bulbs were used for battery powered items such as flashlights and headlamps. Today, LED bulbs are made using as many as 180 bulbs per cluster, and encased in diffuser lenses which spread the light in wider beams. Now available with standard bases which fit common household light fixtures, LEDs are the next generation in home lighting.

The high cost of producing LEDs has been a roadblock to widespread use. However, researchers at Purdue University have recently developed a process for using inexpensive silicon wafers to replace the expensive sapphire-based technology. This promises to bring LEDs into competitive pricing with CFLs and incandescents. LEDs may soon become the standard for most lighting needs. We are following these developments with interest and will report the latest updates in this research.

Benefits of LED lightbulbs

Long-lasting - LED bulbs last up to 10 times as long as compact fluorescents, and far longer than typical incandescents.
Durable - since LEDs do not have a filament, they are not damaged under circumstances when a regular incandescent bulb would be broken. Because they are solid, LED bulbs hold up well to jarring and bumping.
Cool - these bulbs do not cause heat build-up; LEDs produce 3.4 btu’s/hour, compared to 85 for incandescent bulbs. This also cuts down on air conditioning costs in the home.
Mercury-free - no mercury is used in the manufacturing of LEDs.

More efficient - LED light bulbs use only 2-10 watts of electricity (1/3rd to 1/30th of Incandescent or CFL) Small LED flashlight bulbs will extend battery life 10 to 15 times longer than with incandescent bulbs. Also, because these bulbs last for years, energy is saved in maintenance and replacement costs. For example, many cities in the US are replacing their incandescent traffic lights with LED arrays because the electricity costs can be reduced by 80% or more.
Cost-effective - although LEDs are expensive, the cost is recouped over time and in battery savings. For the AC bulbs and large cluster arrays, the best value comes from commercial use where maintenance and replacement costs are expensive.
Light for remote areas - because of the low power requirement for LEDs, using solar panels becomes more practical and less expensive than running an electric line or using a generator for lighting.

Choosing an LED lightbulb
Many different models and styles of LED bulbs are emerging in today’s marketplace. When choosing a bulb, keep in mind the following:

• Estimate desired wattage - read the package to choose desired illumination level. For example, a 3W LED is equivalent in output to a 45 W incandescent.
• Choose between warm and cool light - new LED bulbs are available in ‘cool’ white light, which is ideal for task lighting, and ‘warm’ light commonly used for accent or small area lighting.
• Standard base or pin base - LEDs are available in several types of ‘pin’ sockets or the standard “screw’ (Edison) bases for recessed or track lighting.
• Choose between standard and dimmable bulbs - some LED bulbs, such as the LumiSelect series, are now available as dimmable bulbs.

The common styles of LED bulbs include the following:

ZetaLux LED bulb

Diffused bulbs
In this style LED bulb, clusters of LEDs are covered by a dimpled lens which spreads the light out over a wider area. Available in standard Edison bases, these bulbs have many uses, such as area lighting for rooms, porches, reading lamps, accent lamps, hallways and low-light applications where lights remain on for extended periods. more info

EvoLux LED bulb

Diffused high power bulbs
Designed for standard household use, these bulbs produce light equivalent to a 100-watt incandescent bulb. The EvoLux (pictured), and ZetaLux (pictured above) are the first UL Listed and FCC approved LED light bulbs for general household illumination. more info

LED track light bulb
Track Lighting
Available in pin base or standard (Edison) base, LEDs are ideal for track lighting. LEDs do not contribute to heat buildup in a room because no matter how long they remain on, they do not get hot to the touch. Also, because they are 90% more efficient than incandescents, and last 10 times longer than CFLs, the frequency of changing bulbs is greatly reduced. more info

LED recessed bulb and module
Recessed Downlight and Spotlight bulbs
LEDs are now available for standard recessed lighting pots and housings. The light output and color quality are similar to incandescent downlights, but draws only about one-fifth of the power. Also, because they are 90% more efficient than incandescents. and last 10 times longer than CFLs, the frequency of changing bulbs is greatly reduced. more info

LED spotlight
Spotlight and Floodlight LEDs
The spotlight LED lacks a dispersing lens, so it appears brighter as its light is directed forward. It runs cool and will last over 50,000 hours due to advanced thermal management design. The floodlight model gives a spread-out dispersed light. Well suited for ceiling lights, outdoor floodlights. retail display lighting, landscape lighting and motion sensors. more info

LED Terminology

CRI - Coloring Rendering Index. CRI represents the quality of light and its faithfulness to render colors correctly. The EvoLux bulb, for example, features a CRI of 75 for Cool White and 80 for Warm White making it one of the highest in the industry.
CCT - Correlated Color Temperature is the measure used to describe the relative color appearance of a white light source. CCT indicates whether a light source appears more yellow/gold/orange or more blue, in terms of the range of available shades of “white.” CCT is given in kelvins (unit of absolute temperature).
RGB - stands for red, green, and blue, the three primary colors of light. When the primaries are mixed, the resulting light appears white to the human eye. Mixing the light from red, green, and blue LEDs is one way to produce white light. The other approach is known as phosphor conversion [see below].
Luminous Flux - the flow of light measured in lumens. With light bulbs, it provides an estimate of the apparent amount of light the bulb will produce.

LED Colors

Red - red is the traditional color for maintaining night vision.
Green - green is now the preferred color for pilots and the military. The green color is also great for retaining night vision, and it doesn’t erase the red markings on maps and charts.
Blue - many people like the blue because it is very easy on the eyes. Blue appears to be a good reading light for elderly eyes. Elderly folks report that they can read under the blue light for hours without eyestrain, compared to severe eyestrain in less than 30 minutes with incandescent lighting.
White - the most popular of the LED colors. It produces a soft white light, without harsh reflection, glare or shadows.
Amber - LED amber bulbs do not attract flying insects, as do ordinary white bulbs. Amber LEDs are used outdoors in areas such as patios and decks where insects flying around lights are a nuisance.
CFL Lighting: Benefits

Efficient: CFLs are four times more efficient and last up to 10 times longer than incandescents. A 22 watt CFL has about the same light output as a 100 watt incandescent. CFLs use 50 - 80% less energy than incandescents.
Less Expensive: Although initially more expensive, you save money in the long run because CFLs use 1/3 the electricity and last up to 10 times as long as incandescents. A single 18 watt CFL used in place of a 75 watt incandescent will save about 570 kWh over its lifetime. At 8 cents per kWh, that equates to a $45 savings.
Reduces Air and Water Pollution: Replacing a single incandescent bulb with a CFL will keep a half-ton of CO2 out of the atmosphere over the life of the bulb. If everyone in the U.S. used energy-efficient lighting, we could retire 90 average size power plants. Saving electricity reduces CO2 emissions, sulfur oxide and high-level nuclear waste.
High-Quality Light: Newer CFLs give a warm, inviting light instead of the “cool white” light of older fluorescents. They use rare earth phosphors for excellent color and warmth. New electronically ballasted CFLs don’t flicker or hum.
Versatile: CFLs can be applied nearly anywhere that incandescent lights are used. Energy-efficient CFLs can be used in recessed fixtures, table lamps, track lighting, ceiling fixtures and porchlights. 3-way CFLs are also now available for lamps with 3-way settings. Dimmable CFLs are also available for lights using a dimmer switch.

Choosing a CFL

CFLs come in many shapes and sizes. When purchasing CFLs, consult the seller for recommendations and consider the following:
• Choose your preferred light quality
CFL bulbs have a Kelvin or ‘K’ number listed on the packaging. CFLs with K numbers between 2700-3000 give off a soft bright light like incandescents. CFLs with K numbers between 3500-6000 give off a bright light. As you go up the K number scale the light gets bluish and closer to daylight.

For example:
Approx. 2700K = Warm White (looks just like incandescent)
Approx. 5000K = Cool White (white/blue, bright light)

• Choose the shape. CFLs are available in a variety of shapes to fit a range of lamps and lighting fixtures. See below on this page for the most popular CFL shapes.

• Match lumens to the incandescent being replaced. Lumens indicate the amount of light being generated. (Watts is a measure of energy use, not light strength.) To compare lumens and watts see chart below:
..................Incandescent Watts...... . ..CFL Watt range... . . ... .. Lumen Range
40
60
75
100
150 8 - 10
13 - 18
18 - 22
23 - 28
34 - 42 450
890
1210
1750
2780

CFL Models

CFLs are available in a variety of styles or shapes. Some have two, four, or six tubes. Older models, and specialty models, have separate tubes and ballasts. Some CFLs have the tubes and ballast permanently connected. This allows you to change the tubes without changing the ballast. Others have circular or spiral-shaped tubes. In general, the size or total surface area of the tube determines how much light the bulb produces.

The following CFL bulb models come with standard sockets for easy installation in most common household applications. These bulbs are available in our online store.

Spiral Lamps
These bulbs are designed as a continuous tube in a spiral shape which has similar outside shape and light casting qualities to a standard incandescent bulb. Spiral CFL bulbs are made in several sizes to fit most common fixtures. more info

Triple Tube Lamps
These CFLs have more tubing in a smaller area, which generates even more light in a shorter bulb. They pack high light output into a very small space and can be used in fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs, such as table lamps, reading lamps, open hanging lamps, and bare bulb applications. more info

Standard Lamps
These are spiral lamps with a dome cover. They are designed to give the appearance of the traditional light bulb for consumers looking for the more familiar light bulb appearance. The glass diffuser provides a quality of light similar to the ‘soft-white’ type of incandescent bulbs. more info

Globe Lamps
This shape is commonly used in bathroom vanity mirrors or open hanging lamps, and bare bulb applications. Bathroom vanities usually require multiple bulbs, which generate radiant heat. The CFL globe will reduce this heat buildup while saving energy. The glass diffuser provides a soft-white light. more info

Flood Lamps
These lamps are designed to be ideal for recessed and track lighting fixtures, indoors and outdoors. They provide diffused, soft, white light, and generate less heat than will an incandescent flood or a halogen bulb. more info

Candelabra
The screw-in torpedo-shape and the small-base of this bulb is designed for smaller light fixtures throughout the house, from chandeliers to sconces. To use a smaller candelabra-based bulb in a regular socket, you can use a socket reducer. more info
cfl spiral bulb

cfl triple tube bulb
cfl standard bulb
cfl globe bulb
cfl flood bulb
cfl candelabra bulb

Limitations of CFL lightbulbs

Although CFLs are an excellent source of energy-efficient lighting, they are not always the best choice for all lighting applications. Here are a few limitations to consider:

* On/Off cycling: CFLs are sensitive to frequent on/off cycling. Their rated lifetimes of 10,000 hours are reduced in applications where the light is switched on and off very often. Closets and other places where lights are needed for brief illumination should use incandescent or LED bulbs.
* Dimmers: Dimmable CFLs are available for lights using a dimmer switch, but check the package; not all CFLs can be used on dimmer switches. Using a regular CFL with a dimmer can shorten the bulb life span.
* Timers: Most CFLs can be used with a timer, however some timers have parts which are incompatible with CFLs; to check your timer, consult the timer package or manufacturer. Using an incompatible timer can shorten the life of a CFL bulb.
* Outdoors: CFLs can be used outdoors, but should be covered or shaded from the elements. Low temperatures may reduce light levels - check the package label to see if the bulb is suited for outdoor use.
* Retail lighting: CFLs are not spot lights. Retail store display lighting usually requires narrow focus beams for stronger spot lighting. CFLs are better for area lighting.
* Mercury content: CFLs contain small amounts of mercury which is a toxic metal. This metal may be released if the bulb is broken, or during disposal. New ‘Alto’ CFL bulbs are now available with low-mercury content. These low-mercury CFLs are available at our online store. For more information about mercury and CFLs, see below.

The principle reason for reduced lifespan of CFLs is heat. CFLs exhibit shorter lifespans in light fixtures and sockets where there is low air-flow and heat build-up such as recessed lighting. For these types of sockets it is recommended to ues specially designed CFLs for recessed lighting or LEDs. Another main reason for reduced lifespan of CFLs is too-frequent on/off cycling. These bulbs should be used where they will be left on for steady periods without being flicked on and off.

Mercury and CFLs

Mercury is a toxic metal associated with contamination of water, fish, and food supplies, and can lead to adverse health affects. A CFL bulb generally contains an average of 5 mg of mercury (about one-fifth of that found in the average watch battery, and less than 1/100th of the mercury found in an amalgam dental filling). A power plant will emit 10mg of mercury to produce the electricity to run an incandescent bulb compared to only 2.4mg of mercury to run a CFL for the same time. The net benefit of using the more energy efficient lamp is positive, and this is especially true if the mercury in the fluorescent lamp is kept out of the waste stream when the lamp expires.

All fluorescent lamps do not contain the same amount of mercury. Philips lamps with Alto Lamp Technology, for instance, contain less mercury than conventional fluorescent lamps. Philips claims the bulbs have the lowest amount of mercury of any bulb on the market at less than 3.8 mg per bulb. To achieve this, Philips uses a specially developed mercury capsule which ensures the exact amount of mercury is placed in a tiny glass capsule which is attached to the lamp cathode. To purchase the new ‘Alto’ CFLs, click here.

Handling and Disposal of CFLs

The mercury in compact fluorescent bulbs poses no threat while in the bulb, but if you break one:
- open a window and leave the room for 15 minutes or more
- use a wet rag to clean it up and put all of the pieces, and the rag, into a plastic bag
- place all materials in a second sealed plastic bag
- call your local recycling center to see if they accept this material, otherwise put it in your local trash. Wash your hands afterward.

Burned out CFLs can be dropped off at Home Depot and Ikea stores. Another solution is to save spent CFLs for a community household hazardous waste collection, which would then send the bulbs to facilities capable of treating, recovering or recycling them. For more information on CFL disposal or recycling, you can contact your local municipality.

Energy-Efficient Lighting: Online Sources

A complete selection of CFLs and LEDs is available online at Eartheasy’s online store.

http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/06/are-pesticides-causing-parkinson%E2%80%99s-disease/

Are pesticides causing Parkinson’s disease?

30-plus years of research sheds light on a hidden connection…
By Robin Marantz Henig, OnEarth Magazine Posted Jun 22, 2009

Excerpted from the article which appeared in OnEarth Magazine.

Jackie Christensen was 32 when her body began to betray her. She had just returned to work after the birth of her second son and when she tried to type, two fingers on her left hand refused to cooperate. “They wouldn’t go where I would want them to on the keyboard,” says Christensen, who at the time — it was 1997 — was co-director of the food and health program at the Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy, a Minneapolis think tank. “I also had what they frequently call frozen shoulder, with a very low range of motion in my left arm.”

The first neurologist Christensen went to responded flippantly to her suggestion that she might have multiple sclerosis, which she had self-diagnosed because of her relatively young age and the fact that she was female. “If you want me to write that down, I will,” she remembers him saying, refusing to pursue the matter further. A second neurologist thought it was all in Christensen’s mind and referred her to a psychiatrist. Over the next several months, her symptoms got progressively worse, and she finally consulted neurologist number three. His startling diagnosis: Parkinson’s disease.

“I thought, ‘I can’t have Parkinson’s because I’m not old,’” Christensen recalls. But a trial of the standard treatment, a drug called L-dopa, seemed to work. Based on that clinical observation, the diagnosis was confirmed. This was in 1998, when Christensen was not quite 35, and she has been on L-dopa, with varying degrees of success, ever since.

Why did a disease that usually affects people in their sixties and seventies, and that affects men more often than women, strike this vibrant young mother? Christensen, a lifelong environmental activist, suspected an environmental cause — not only because she was politically inclined to, but because she knew that accumulating scientific information was pointing in that direction. In the past few years, Christensen has been part of a movement exploring a possible connection between exposure to environmental toxins — in particular, the organophosphate pesticides — and Parkinson’s disease, through her work with the Collaborative on Health and the Environment, a national network of advocacy and scientific organizations. She is co-founder of CHE’s working group on Parkinson’s Disease and the Environment.

A cause-and-effect relationship between environmental neurotoxins and Parkinson’s is difficult to prove. As with many other scientific efforts to establish disease causation through population studies, there will probably never be a smoking gun that settles things once and for all. Population studies can detect associations between certain suspected agents and diseases such as cancer, but it’s hard to draw conclusions about what causes a disease from studies that can register only correlations. In the case of Parkinson’s and the environment, however, there has been a steadily mounting consensus about such a connection, and the pace has quickened in the past year or so.

A January 2009 consensus statement from CHE, in collaboration with the Parkinson’s Action Network, a patient advocacy group, found that there was “limited suggestive evidence of an association” between pesticides and Parkinson’s, and between farming or agricultural work and Parkinson’s. This followed by just a few months the publication of Environmental Threats to Healthy Aging, a report co-authored by the Science and Environmental Health Network, a consortium of advocacy groups based in Ames, Iowa; it included a summary of 31 population studies that have looked at the possible connection between pesticide exposure and Parkinson’s. Twenty-four of those studies, according to the report, found a positive association, and in 12 cases the association was statistically significant. In some studies, the group found, there was as much as a sevenfold greater risk of Parkinson’s in people exposed to pesticides. In addition, in April 2009, scientists at the University of California, Los Angeles published a provocative study connecting the disease not only to occupational pesticide exposure but also to living in homes or going to schools that were close to a pesticide-treated field.

Taken together, 30-plus years of research add up to an increasingly persuasive conclusion: exposure to pesticides and other toxins increases the risk of Parkinson’s disease, and we are only now beginning to wrestle with the true scope of the damage.

Parkinson’s is the second most common neurodegenerative disease (after Alzheimer’s) in the United States, affecting between 1 million and 1.5 million Americans. The majority of cases occur in people over 65, about 60 percent of them male. It leads to uncontrollable tremors, muscle rigidity, and the inability to direct your arms or legs to move when you want them to. People with Parkinson’s often have a masklike, impassive expression. They may have difficulty speaking clearly and develop a characteristic shuffling gait. Cognitive skills usually are not affected, though some functions like memory and decision-making can be impaired, and, in the face of the gradual and inevitable encroachment of physical limitations, people with Parkinson’s often become depressed.

In part because it can take many forms, Parkinson’s disease is difficult to diagnose. Several movement disorders have been classified in the general category known as Parkinson’s-like syndrome, or parkinsonism. Scientists are divided about whether Parkinson’s disease and parkinsonism are even related in any meaningful way, beyond sharing some symptoms. The two conditions may not even involve the same brain defects. The strict definition of Parkinson’s disease is a loss of cells in the substantia nigra, a small structure in the basal ganglia region of the midbrain (though other brain structures are now thought to be involved as well). The substantia nigra ordinarily secretes the neurotransmitter dopamine, which is involved in many of the brain’s functions, including the control of motor activity.

Often a diagnosis of Parkinson’s disease is made the way it was made for Christensen: by a trial run of L-dopa, which boosts dopamine in the brain. If it works, the problem must be Parkinson’s. It’s a circular kind of logic, but it’s all that most doctors have. There still are no definitive blood tests or brain scans to make the diagnosis.

“Despite remaining uncertainties and data gaps,” wrote the authors of a 2008 report by the Science and Environmental Health Network — Jill Stein, Ted Schettler, Ben Rohrer, and Maria Valenti — “the body of evidence linking pesticide exposure to Parkinson’s disease fulfills generally accepted criteria for establishing causation.” When combined with “extensive laboratory animal data” specifying the underlying biology of this relationship, they wrote, “collectively, this evidence supports the conclusion that pesticide exposures can cause Parkinson’s disease in some people.”

Like most other population studies, this one has no way of proving that, for any one individual, X definitely led to Y — that Jackie Christensen’s early-onset Parkinson’s disease, for instance, was caused by her exposure to pesticides as a teenager. To Christensen, however, the causal connection is clear. Growing up in rural Minnesota, she spent summers working on local farms. In her early teens, this meant engaging in a practice known as “walking beans.” A pickup truck would drop off a bunch of youngsters, including Christensen, at one end of a field, and they would walk the rows of soybeans, weeding as they went. Later, Christensen and her friends rode a “bean buggy,” a rig attached to the front of a tractor from which they would spray the herbicide Roundup, sometimes dyed purple so they could see where it was landing, carefully aiming for the weeds and trying to avoid the beans. Often she was dressed in nothing more than a bathing suit and a baseball cap. “I had a great tan those summers,” she wrote in the introduction to her book, The First Year: Parkinson’s Disease; An Essential Guide for the Newly Diagnosed, “and I had no idea nor gave any thought whatsoever to what I might be exposing myself to, or what the effects might be. After the first day or two of spraying, I could no longer smell the odor of the herbicide. I do remember that when I would come home, my mother would immediately tell me to take a shower because I smelled like chemicals.”

As a young adult, Christensen had a single massive chemical exposure, during a political demonstration that involved wading into the Mississippi River in St. Louis. Wastewater treatment runoff made the water as neon green as Mountain Dew. She says it’s “anybody’s guess” what was in the water, but since many of the industries in St. Louis at the time discharged their wastes into the river, she says the brew probably included organophosphate pesticides, dry cleaning solvents, and other compounds. “After that action, within an hour I had a headache,” she says, “and I was nauseated and felt fatigued and lousy for a week. I know now that those are common symptoms of acute pesticide poisoning. At the time I didn’t think about what was causing it. I was 25 and thought I was bulletproof.”

Since the British physician James Parkinson first described the “shaking palsy” in 1817, Parkinson’s disease has been linked to a variety of possible environmental causes, both natural and artificial. It has been linked, too, to genetic factors, dating back to the beginning of the twentieth century, when early-onset Parkinson’s was first found to run in a few scattered, unlucky families. Those who study the connection between Parkinson’s and the environment suggest that it’s probably the combined result of having a genetic predisposition to the disease and a dangerous exposure to some sort of neurotoxin. A favorite expression of people in this field is that “genetics loads the gun and environment pulls the trigger.”

To read entire article in On Earth magazine, click here.

Robin Marantz Henig is a contributing writer to the New York Times Magazine. She is the recipient of a 2009 Guggenheim Foundation fellowship, and is the author of eight books on science, including The Monk in the Garden (Houghton Mifflin), a finalist for the National Book Critics Circle Award.
Related articles:

1. Pesticides & Kids – why you should be concerned
2. Most homes in US found to harbor lingering pesticides
3. Outdoor Pesticides – are they worth the risk?
4. Pesticides choke pathway for nature to produce nitrogen for crops
5. Lawn care chemicals: how toxic are they?
6. Let fish go to your head

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