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How to (safely) cut outside parts of plywood sheet

Posted on 12/30/2006 10:03:26 AM PST by rudy45

My daughter needs to cut a silhouette out of a 4x8 plywood sheet. In other words, she will draw the figure, then I need to cut the outside pieces of the sheet.

Someone lent me an auto scrolling saw.

I have no workbench or vise. Of course, I will wear my shooting/safety goggles and earplugs.

What else do I need to cut the plywood safely?

Can I just borrow or rent two sawhorses? If so, how do I clamp the sheet to the sawhorses? Thanks.


TOPICS: Hobbies
KEYWORDS: woodworking
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1 posted on 12/30/2006 10:03:29 AM PST by rudy45
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To: rudy45

I have no idea, but I'll be interested in learning, too! We'll be making a beanbag-toss game out of plywood for our church fair next fall :-).


2 posted on 12/30/2006 10:09:40 AM PST by Tax-chick ("Everything is either willed or permitted by God, and nothing can hurt me." Bl. Charles de Foucauld)
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To: rudy45

Get somebody who knows what they are doing to cut it. Remember: Safety First.


3 posted on 12/30/2006 10:12:52 AM PST by BipolarBob (Yes I backed over the vampire, but I swear I didn't see it in my rear view mirror.)
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To: rudy45

Not much of a tool guy, hey, Rudy??

Don't need a sawhorse. If your front (or back) porch is flat and of the appropriate size, just lay it flat with the part to be cut hanging over the side. Kneel on the sheet and cut. You will have to make several adjustments during the process but it will work.


4 posted on 12/30/2006 10:13:05 AM PST by CTOCS (Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge. Others just gargle.)
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To: rudy45

This isn't a very dangerous job. Hell, I'd just lift the thing off of the garage floor with bricks or blocks and cut away. The weight of the plywood is such that it won't move much, and you can stabilize it with your leg.


5 posted on 12/30/2006 10:14:48 AM PST by Jaysun (I've never paid for sex in my life. And that's really pissed off a lot of prostitutes.)
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To: rudy45
Just set it up on the home range and shoot the lines. Like the carnival shoot the star game. Make work fun.

In all seriousness, let someone with some experience do it. You need to support the scrap during the cut. Use the right kind of blade (a sharp one) in the saw and don't rush the cut by pushing too hard.

6 posted on 12/30/2006 10:18:39 AM PST by Dinsdale
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To: rudy45

Rent or buy a really good quality (like Bosch) and buy some extra blades, since you will probably break a few.

Support it on some 2 x 4's ( or thicker). Be sure the blade isn't hitting the support Sawhorses are easier for your back. Have a helper support the drop off. Have the supports close to the cut to lessen vibration. Test your cutting tool handling on scrap before you start on the good sheet.

Or just have a milling or cabinet shope cut it for you.


7 posted on 12/30/2006 10:26:21 AM PST by garyhope (It's World War IV, right here, right now courtesy of Islam.)
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To: rudy45

Don't try to do this without the proper tools and staging equipment.
If you have a neighbor or janitor who has a workshop, take the project
to them.

Power Tools and Power (ful) tools like saws and knives are dangerous.
Wear goggles and use gloves.

-- Rejoicing Jo --


8 posted on 12/30/2006 10:26:53 AM PST by Jo Nuvark (Those who bless Israel will be blessed, those who curse Israel will be cursed. Gen 12:3)
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To: Jo Nuvark
"Power Tools and Power (ful) tools like saws and knives are dangerous."

And reattaching fingers is not always successful.

9 posted on 12/30/2006 10:55:25 AM PST by trickyricky
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To: rudy45

No problem here Rudy. Use your deck or a couple of 2 x 4's in the garage. Just don't try to cut out the entire silhouette without cutting off the scarp at intervals and you'll do just fine.


10 posted on 12/30/2006 11:01:50 AM PST by jwalsh07 (Duncan Hunter for President)
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To: rudy45

Get a grip people!

This is really a simple job. You won't need the ear plugs, the glasses may keep sawdust out of your eyes, the really careful would say use a mask to prevent inhaling any sawdust, but for God's sake...people have been doing simple projects like this forever...and surviving.

Sheesh!


11 posted on 12/30/2006 11:09:27 AM PST by x1stcav (I always thought he was a Murthaf*cker.)
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To: rudy45
The biggest problem with doing this is that the piece has to be supported to have clearance for the blade underneath. You need to support it evenly across both the finished piece and waste sections, so that they stay flat relative to each other as you make the cuts.

If you don't do this, then the unsupported secion will sag as it's being cut loose, which results in binding the saw blade and then all manner of unpleasant things tend to follow.

12 posted on 12/30/2006 11:09:31 AM PST by tacticalogic ("Oh bother!" said Pooh, as he chambered his last round.)
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To: tacticalogic

do not think that you have to do it in one continuous cut, remove managable sections


13 posted on 12/30/2006 11:12:49 AM PST by daku ("Behold this creature that walks like a man. It wants ketchup on its hot dog.")
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To: daku; rudy45
do not think that you have to do it in one continuous cut, remove managable sections

You can, but how often you have to remove the secions will depend on how heavy the unsupported part is. Once it gets heavy enough to sag under it's own weight it's time to stop and cut it loose. If you have to stop and do this too often it gets tedious, and you tend to start "pushing your luck". The final procedure usually ends up being some combination of the two.

As something of an aside, I think you're going to find that the sawdust will tend to obscure your view of the line as you work. Having a helper with a vacuum can make things much easier, and the final result much better.

All of this is simply MHO, of course.

14 posted on 12/30/2006 11:22:37 AM PST by tacticalogic ("Oh bother!" said Pooh, as he chambered his last round.)
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To: x1stcav

ssshhhhhh. Don't let them know. It's part of the magic....


15 posted on 12/30/2006 11:54:32 AM PST by CharlesWayneCT
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To: rudy45
These instructions require the use of a router, which would be more effecient for the task.

Use two sheets of plywood, on a flat surface. Draw your picture/pattern on the top sheet. The bottowm sheet might get scarred, but bettter it than your front porch or table. Set the depth of your router to the depth of 1 sheet of plywood. Using a cutoff bit plunge it into the sheet of plywood on the outside of your pattern and then follow the pattern you have drawn. Pull the router don't push. Use a steady slow motion.

Always use saftey. Don't let the router get away from you.

16 posted on 12/30/2006 1:28:30 PM PST by Bear_Slayer (When liberty is outlawed only outlaws will have liberty.)
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To: tacticalogic

Use a Skil saw to plunge cut most of the material out of the middle. Then go through with the sabre saw to remove the rest of the material.


17 posted on 12/30/2006 1:30:57 PM PST by Bear_Slayer (When liberty is outlawed only outlaws will have liberty.)
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To: Bear_Slayer
CORRECTION:

Plunge the bit on the waste side of the pattern. inside or out depending on which side you wish to keep.

18 posted on 12/30/2006 1:32:42 PM PST by Bear_Slayer (When liberty is outlawed only outlaws will have liberty.)
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To: Bear_Slayer
Depending on how much waste there's going to be you might want to do that.

If I understand the situation correctly, rudy45's availble selection of tools suitable to the task is limited to a borrowed jig saw.

19 posted on 12/30/2006 1:38:09 PM PST by tacticalogic ("Oh bother!" said Pooh, as he chambered his last round.)
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To: Bear_Slayer

IMHO, for someone unfamiliar with power tools this task is better approached with a jig saw. Freehand pattern routing on that scale doesn't seem like a good choice for a first woodworking project.


20 posted on 12/30/2006 1:43:22 PM PST by tacticalogic ("Oh bother!" said Pooh, as he chambered his last round.)
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