Posted on 06/03/2005 5:35:57 AM PDT by tame
I know this is the ultimate vanity, but i'm getting DESPERATE here.
I'm trying to help a friend house train her new pup so he doesn't ruin her carpets, but we're having a little trouble with success.
I really hate to interrupt a big news weekend, what with "Deep Throat" and all, but i've got a little pup achin' for the nickname "Deep Stain"!
Seriously, any freeper dog experts who can help out on this? Thanks.
I even keep powdered formula on hand in the cabnet.
We had two cockers that we did not crate train but should have. When the oldest died we got a springer and crate trained her. It worked like a champ! When the springer was about 5 months old we went on a vacation at a lake resort where we had a smallish unit(and of course we took the dogs with us). Our old cocker started hanging out in the crate as a "safe place" from the puppy because he was limited to where he could get some peace and quiet. Pretty funny.
Just let her know if she wants to "put you to sleep," she's welcome anytime ;o>
The puppy needs lots and lots of opportunity. Take him outside every fifteen minutes and praise when he goes outside. Don't wait for him to tell you it's time, because he won't. It's a full time job the first couple weeks. You will want to crate the pup at night, and problably let him out to pee in the night a couple times! I'd put the crate right near where they are sleeping and let him out when he whines and scratches... this is his first way of signalling to you. It's a little hard to tell 'I want attention' whining from 'I have to pee' whining, but if he gets put outside when he does it, he soon learns the result.
As for punishing when he does go in the house, just yell and make a big production out of cleaning it up, and then take the pup outside. Lots of praise when he goes in the right place.
The biggest mistake is getting lazy about it and not giving lots of opportunity... and expecting the pup to signal. They won't at first. They will get pretty good about it by 12 weeks... but not totally trustworthy (for chewing also) for over a year.
Cockers are cute, but, let's face it, they're awfully neurotic. Ours waited for people to take her out. If we weren't there at that moment, she didn't bother to wait.
Sounds like everyone else here is either more firm or more experienced. Guess you should follow their advice.
Good luck. (Sniff! I think a lot about my cocker spaniel. She went to that great kennel in the sky long ago.)
Other freepers have said that dogs won't soil their sleeping areas, and it also gives them a sense of there own territory and 'place' in the pack.
Our pup just turned the big 3 the other week, and she still uses her crate for quiet time or naps.
Oh, and I think the rule should be the same as with the ann coulter lists: post pictures of this new pup!
Hi! Please excuse me for butting in here, but am curious as I have been wondering how to clean my (fairly) new coffeemaker..but how do you clean a coffeemaker with vinegar? I am thinking you pour the vinegar in where the water goes?... (I hope I dont sound too stupid!)
Thanks!
Ping
>>> I am thinking you pour the vinegar in where the water goes?..
Exactly right!
Pour the vinegar in where the water goes, turn on the coffee maker and let it boil through.
Then run plan water and boil that through at least twice.
:)
I do cocker rescue and one of the main reasons cockers are surrendered to rescue is inability to housebreak. I LOVE cockers but they can be slow learners in the obedience/housebreaking department. :)
That said, how old is the little darlin? Are you using a crate for training?
I would limit food and water to specific times and walk him soon after eating and drinking. Take him out as soon as you see him searching for a place to go and immediately after he wakes up from sleeping. It is also a good idea to limit his access in the house. Keep him to a room or two and be with him at all times. Hope this helps. You can freepmail me if you need more help.
Thank you!!!! I am going to do this tonight.
Have a great weekend!
All I can say is thank goodness you're doing this in nice weather. We got our new pup a day before the HUGE SNOWSTORM that socked us in here in Illinois in February of 1967 (20-something inches of snow in 24 hours). It was a cockapoo puppy that we got free from my Girl Scout leader.
Our 2 year old male cocker loves to chew paper towels. When he gets one, usually stolen from the trash or off the table, he takes it straight to his crate. We can always tell he has one even if we can't see the towel because of the direct no-nonsense way he trots to his crate. I guess he figures when "mom" finds me with this she's going to send me to bed anyway, so I might as well just take my treasure there to begin with.
AMEN......I've house-trained lots of dogs, with and without crates, and the best advice is DON'T BE LAZY......most animals don't operate on "auto-pilot" and they rely on us dumb humans for everything...........crate them (for limited periods...sleeping, time out, when you can't be there to closely supervise), only allow LIMITED access to areas you don't want soiled and then BE THERE TO WATCH OVER THEM, watch for sniffing and circling, remember WHEN they ate, WHEN they last took a drink and then USE COMMON SENSE about what they can hold in their tiny bladders.......also, MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ORGANIC PROBLEM, meaning if the pup is "just not getting it" and you have been diligent about your supervision and routine setting, TAKE HIM/HER TO A VET AND HAVE IT CHECKED OUT FOR INFECTION/WORMS, ETC. Sometimes our critter pals pick up nasty stuff, even when you THINK they have a clean bill of health. An infection or an infestation would make it impossible for them to physically comply with training and to punish or continue to expect them to learn it this point is grossly unfair. I have seen many people look puzzled about their dog's house training and when I suggest that a vet check might be in order they admit they "never thought of that"......doh!
Most dogs are pretty smart..........think about what you are asking the dog to do and look at the signals you give them, from THEIR point of view. It's much easier that way!!
Puppy should only be in the crate when you can't watch him, he shouldn't be crated long periods 'cept at night. When they are there to play with him, let him out! Play with him! Just watch, and take him outside every fifteen minutes... play lots outside. and get the pup used to going outside. You'll learn the '10-second-till-squat' behavior pretty quick, and when you see it in the house, say "ATCH!" or "NO!" scoop him up and take him out.
Is this dog eventually going to have outdoor daytime space or is it an indoor 'cept to pee' situation?
And EMPHASIZE that they need to watch and teach the child to handle the puppy kindly, and don't let them play unsupervised. Children to very mean things to dogs, sometimes unintentionally, sometimes not. Little dogs become fearful and snap at children in self-defense because the dogs are vulnerable and easily hurt. I usually recommend a larger, more amicable dog, like a labrador, for little kids, for that reason. They're just not as fragile.
bump!
I've had cockers for a long time as well (4 over the past 25 years),and have also had "hit or miss" luck with training them. I've also had 2 Springer Spaniels, and they are BY FAR the easiest dog to potty train. Anyway, kennels work best as just about everyone on this thread has noted.
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