Posted on 12/02/2011 10:27:02 AM PST by martin_fierro
So electrical power has been out @ my house in smugly Nuclear-Power-Free Santa Cruz county, CA for close to 2 days now.
An electrical generator is in order for the next blackout.
But what brand to buy, and what features? Is it relatively easy to wire into a standard home electrical system?
We'd use it for only the most important stuff: Keeping the fridge running + a modem, router and laptop to FReep by!
Obama has you exackly where he wants you.....(hee hee)...
No. You'll need a qualified electrician.
If you want to hook it up to your home electrical system, the utility will require you to install an automatic or manual transfer switch. This prevents the generator from energizing the utility main and possibly electrocuting a repairman working on a downed power line.
I have one that is load-sensing...it idles mostly but when load draw is high, it cranks up the speed to handle the output....I like it...seems to use less gas...
FWIW, I’ve read that a typical portable home generator (probably low-end “consumer” model) only has an operating lifespan of about 500 hours.
Absolutely agree; propane is the way to go if you can. You could also get a gasoline generator and add a bi- or tri-fuel kit to allow you to use propane but still keep the gasoline capability.
The second thing is that it takes 4KW to start a refrigerator, 1KW will not do.
Incorrect. 4000W/120V = 33.3 Amps. I guarantee your household fridge does NOT draw 33 amps when the compressor kicks on. Also, I have a fridge that is about two years old and I was able to run it, a single lamp, the power vent for my hot water heater, and my internet connection with a small 1KW generator during our Halloween week power-outage.
Feature considerations in a generator to back up the house in an emergancy.
#1 power output characteristics. meaning, number of plugs, Amps, voltage, etc
#2 feature - fuel type (you have already said gasoline), multifuel possibilities (alcohol possible?)
#3 run time from a full tank and can you fill while running
#4 size and tranportability
#5 Noise level
#6 ease of start
#7 maintenance - drain and replace oil, drain the fuel, spark plug replacement, fuel filter,
#8 Heat generation and exhaust - most are air cooled and need to be placed outside. Can you place in the garage and vent the exhaust?
#9 Warranty
My experience taught me the price of a natural gas-powered automatic genset might not have been as outrageous as I first thought (now down to under $2K).
If you go the gas route, you’ll need 3 to 5 KW capacity, which is in the range of $500. Remember, you get what you pay for, and there’s some real junk out there.
You’ll need a manual transfer switch to protect linemen from accidental backfeed. Don’t even THINK of running a generator without one, anyone who says they “always” remember to pull their main breaker is playing with soeone elses life. They’ll run another $250 or so if you install it yourself. Probably 2-3X if you have to hire an electrician. There are some cheap things that add a double-breaker and a metal slider plate for about $100 or so.
You don’t want to run your genset in an enclosed area, not even a garage. Definitely NOT in your house! I eneded up building a separate detached generator shed. Cost will depend on your DIY skills.
You’ll need at a minimum to run a feeder cable or buy a generator cable and wire it in (or hire an electrician to do it).
You’ll also need to mess with gasoline, I change mine out ever year and still treat it with StaBil. It’s a hassle.
Good luck. For those who need electricity for a medical device or other life-safety reason, I’d strongly recommend the packaged backup power unit, running from LP or natural gas.
I have some experience in this having gone without power for 10 days after Hurricane Ike hit Ohio.
I have both a 5500 watt generator and 20,000 watt generator.
My 5500 watt generator will run my refrigerator, sump pump, computer a few lights and microwave just fine. It’s also not too bad on gas.
The 20,000 watt generator, got it on clearance at Homo Depot, will run my entire home, including central air, but goes through gas twice as fast and is very loud in comparison.
It is always recommended that you get a power transfer switch however I just backfeed my power through the garage. You must ALWAYS throw out the main if you do this and some load panels actually have a lockout switch that permits it otherwise you energize the line and could blow up your house when the power comes back on.
Generac is the way to go and always treat the gas because it will go bad and you’ll be screwed when you need to use it.
Honda’s are great but way overpriced.
Or you can be cheap like me and just turn off the main.
In addition to the advice above, try to get one where the engine is not made by China, but you need to be careful as even Japanese manufacturers may sub out manufacture of the engine
For folks living in the northeast where a majority of homes are heated with oil, a diesel generator is the best bet. You can easily tap a second line from the tank to power the generator. Diesel and heating oil can be stored long periods of time without spoiling. Consumption with the diesel engine is much more efficient.
You could also consider the Interlock Kit...less expensive, safe, convenient and legal where I live.
Just an option to consider, though...massive and heated debates of the transfer switch vs. the Interlock can be found all over the web. Have a look - your opinion may vary!!
http://www.interlockkit.com/intro2.htm
Make certain the generator has electric start and a circular 220 VAC outlet.
The transfer switch kit with the outside box will allow you to set up your system to power four 110 VAC circuits and one 220 VAC circuit. You can actually split the 220 and have six 110 VAC circuits.
Reliance has online video and written instructions for the installation.
Once you are wired up, when you lose power, you just crank up the generator, plugged into the outside box, and go to your tranfer switch and throw the six circuit switches and you are in business.
I have a 17kw propane Siemens with an automatic transfer switch powering a 100 amp emergency panel. The whole house isn’t connected- only needed circuits. I’ve found Siemens (made by Generac) are less expensive but you won’t find them at Lowes or Home Depot. They are only sold through electrical suppliers. I installed my own but suggest if you aren’t that versed in wiring you should have an electrician install it.
If you’re a he-man, you might generate 250 watts for an hour. Then watt?
Much (but not all, be careful) of the Generac line is made in the USA.
Cool, glad you have an efficient fridge. I have seen a vanilla fridge stall a 1KW generator, flat not work and fail ugly. For the money, I’d do 4KW and not worry.
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