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(vanity)Features to look for in a good gasoline-powered home generator?
12/2/11 | marty_f

Posted on 12/02/2011 10:27:02 AM PST by martin_fierro

So electrical power has been out @ my house in smugly Nuclear-Power-Free Santa Cruz county, CA for close to 2 days now.

An electrical generator is in order for the next blackout.

But what brand to buy, and what features? Is it relatively easy to wire into a standard home electrical system?

We'd use it for only the most important stuff: Keeping the fridge running + a modem, router and laptop to FReep by!


TOPICS: Chit/Chat
KEYWORDS: generator; shtf
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To: Lazlo in PA

Obama has you exackly where he wants you.....(hee hee)...


21 posted on 12/02/2011 10:40:56 AM PST by Gaffer
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To: martin_fierro
Is it relatively easy to wire into a standard home electrical system?

No. You'll need a qualified electrician.

If you want to hook it up to your home electrical system, the utility will require you to install an automatic or manual transfer switch. This prevents the generator from energizing the utility main and possibly electrocuting a repairman working on a downed power line.

22 posted on 12/02/2011 10:41:38 AM PST by justlurking (The only remedy for a bad guy with a gun is a good WOMAN (Sgt. Kimberly Munley) with a gun)
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To: martin_fierro

I have one that is load-sensing...it idles mostly but when load draw is high, it cranks up the speed to handle the output....I like it...seems to use less gas...


23 posted on 12/02/2011 10:42:38 AM PST by Gaffer
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To: martin_fierro
Santa Cruz (city & county) is a lunatic asylum. It's filled to the brim with some of the most foolish people you can ever want to imagine. If not for the fact Innocent people would suffer, I'd like to see more blackouts, brownouts, and other power outages in Santa Cruz. It would serve those people right. But part of me wants to see these idiots suffer.

However to be fair, the latest outages are probably the result of the very high winds that were in the Northern California area(and much of the West) over the last few days.
24 posted on 12/02/2011 10:43:33 AM PST by truthguy (Good intentions are not enough.)
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To: martin_fierro

FWIW, I’ve read that a typical portable home generator (probably low-end “consumer” model) only has an operating lifespan of about 500 hours.


25 posted on 12/02/2011 10:47:12 AM PST by Calvin Locke
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To: Mycroft Holmes; martin_fierro
Two things, forget gasoline and get a propane fired generator if you have propane available. Gasoline stores poorly unless expensive additives are used.

Absolutely agree; propane is the way to go if you can. You could also get a gasoline generator and add a bi- or tri-fuel kit to allow you to use propane but still keep the gasoline capability.

The second thing is that it takes 4KW to start a refrigerator, 1KW will not do.

Incorrect. 4000W/120V = 33.3 Amps. I guarantee your household fridge does NOT draw 33 amps when the compressor kicks on. Also, I have a fridge that is about two years old and I was able to run it, a single lamp, the power vent for my hot water heater, and my internet connection with a small 1KW generator during our Halloween week power-outage.

26 posted on 12/02/2011 10:47:20 AM PST by whd23 (Every time a link is de-blogged an angel gets its wings.)
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To: martin_fierro
Get one that's quiet.
Make sure it's outdoors when you run it.
If you store it indoors, get one that's not too big to move yourself. You can put wheels on it.
To connect it legally you need an electrician.
You want a toggle switch so that you CAN NOT have the generator and public supply connected at the same time.
Failure to do so could electrocute line workers trying to fix your power out.
There are kits to switch over circuits one by one but I prefer the whole house switch.
They will tell you that you need a huge generator for a whole house, but that's not so.
Just don't turn on everything at once when on backup power.
Electric stove and electric dryer are things to be careful about.

Consider a professionally installed automatic generator that runs on propane.
It's expensive but worth every penny.

27 posted on 12/02/2011 10:47:52 AM PST by BitWielder1 (Corporate Profits are better than Government Waste)
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To: martin_fierro

Feature considerations in a generator to back up the house in an emergancy.

#1 power output characteristics. meaning, number of plugs, Amps, voltage, etc

#2 feature - fuel type (you have already said gasoline), multifuel possibilities (alcohol possible?)

#3 run time from a full tank and can you fill while running

#4 size and tranportability

#5 Noise level

#6 ease of start

#7 maintenance - drain and replace oil, drain the fuel, spark plug replacement, fuel filter,

#8 Heat generation and exhaust - most are air cooled and need to be placed outside. Can you place in the garage and vent the exhaust?

#9 Warranty


28 posted on 12/02/2011 10:52:24 AM PST by taxcontrol
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To: martin_fierro

My experience taught me the price of a natural gas-powered automatic genset might not have been as outrageous as I first thought (now down to under $2K).

If you go the gas route, you’ll need 3 to 5 KW capacity, which is in the range of $500. Remember, you get what you pay for, and there’s some real junk out there.

You’ll need a manual transfer switch to protect linemen from accidental backfeed. Don’t even THINK of running a generator without one, anyone who says they “always” remember to pull their main breaker is playing with soeone elses life. They’ll run another $250 or so if you install it yourself. Probably 2-3X if you have to hire an electrician. There are some cheap things that add a double-breaker and a metal slider plate for about $100 or so.

You don’t want to run your genset in an enclosed area, not even a garage. Definitely NOT in your house! I eneded up building a separate detached generator shed. Cost will depend on your DIY skills.

You’ll need at a minimum to run a feeder cable or buy a generator cable and wire it in (or hire an electrician to do it).

You’ll also need to mess with gasoline, I change mine out ever year and still treat it with StaBil. It’s a hassle.

Good luck. For those who need electricity for a medical device or other life-safety reason, I’d strongly recommend the packaged backup power unit, running from LP or natural gas.


29 posted on 12/02/2011 10:53:04 AM PST by bigbob
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To: martin_fierro

I have some experience in this having gone without power for 10 days after Hurricane Ike hit Ohio.

I have both a 5500 watt generator and 20,000 watt generator.

My 5500 watt generator will run my refrigerator, sump pump, computer a few lights and microwave just fine. It’s also not too bad on gas.

The 20,000 watt generator, got it on clearance at Homo Depot, will run my entire home, including central air, but goes through gas twice as fast and is very loud in comparison.

It is always recommended that you get a power transfer switch however I just backfeed my power through the garage. You must ALWAYS throw out the main if you do this and some load panels actually have a lockout switch that permits it otherwise you energize the line and could blow up your house when the power comes back on.

Generac is the way to go and always treat the gas because it will go bad and you’ll be screwed when you need to use it.

Honda’s are great but way overpriced.


30 posted on 12/02/2011 10:53:37 AM PST by TSgt (Suppose you were an idiot and suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself.)
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To: BitWielder1
You want a toggle switch so that you CAN NOT have the generator and public supply connected at the same time.

Or you can be cheap like me and just turn off the main.

31 posted on 12/02/2011 10:53:52 AM PST by Lazlo in PA (Now living in a newly minted Red State.)
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To: martin_fierro
This is a beautiful thing since it allows you to use your main load center without a transfer unit and it's available at Lowes.

Manual Transfer Interlock Kit UL listed for use in siemens and murray load centers and meter combination Suitable for use with optional standby systems in accordance with article 702 of the national electrical code Corrosion resistant finish Easy assembly requiring no modification to the load center or meter combination
32 posted on 12/02/2011 10:56:38 AM PST by TSgt (Suppose you were an idiot and suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself.)
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To: bigbob

In addition to the advice above, try to get one where the engine is not made by China, but you need to be careful as even Japanese manufacturers may sub out manufacture of the engine


33 posted on 12/02/2011 10:58:08 AM PST by S.O.L.
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To: BitWielder1

For folks living in the northeast where a majority of homes are heated with oil, a diesel generator is the best bet. You can easily tap a second line from the tank to power the generator. Diesel and heating oil can be stored long periods of time without spoiling. Consumption with the diesel engine is much more efficient.


34 posted on 12/02/2011 10:58:46 AM PST by BillGunn (Bill Gunn for Congress district one rep. Massachusetts)
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To: justlurking
...the utility will require you to install an automatic or manual transfer switch.

You could also consider the Interlock Kit...less expensive, safe, convenient and legal where I live.

Just an option to consider, though...massive and heated debates of the transfer switch vs. the Interlock can be found all over the web. Have a look - your opinion may vary!!

http://www.interlockkit.com/intro2.htm

35 posted on 12/02/2011 10:59:06 AM PST by IrishPennant (We don't want to work so we go to work to make enough money not to work...Huh?)
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To: martin_fierro
I have a 5 KW Troybilt I bought from Lowe's and a Reliance Model 30216A transfer switch. It was easy to install and works well.

Make certain the generator has electric start and a circular 220 VAC outlet.

The transfer switch kit with the outside box will allow you to set up your system to power four 110 VAC circuits and one 220 VAC circuit. You can actually split the 220 and have six 110 VAC circuits.

Reliance has online video and written instructions for the installation.

Once you are wired up, when you lose power, you just crank up the generator, plugged into the outside box, and go to your tranfer switch and throw the six circuit switches and you are in business.

36 posted on 12/02/2011 11:03:03 AM PST by Redleg Duke ("Madison, Wisconsin is 30 square miles surrounded by reality.", L. S. Dryfus)
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To: martin_fierro

I have a 17kw propane Siemens with an automatic transfer switch powering a 100 amp emergency panel. The whole house isn’t connected- only needed circuits. I’ve found Siemens (made by Generac) are less expensive but you won’t find them at Lowes or Home Depot. They are only sold through electrical suppliers. I installed my own but suggest if you aren’t that versed in wiring you should have an electrician install it.


37 posted on 12/02/2011 11:04:42 AM PST by Walmartian (An update is available for this tagline. Click here to download.)
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To: Lazlo in PA

If you’re a he-man, you might generate 250 watts for an hour. Then watt?


38 posted on 12/02/2011 11:05:56 AM PST by pingman (Durn tootin'; I like Glock shootin'!)
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To: S.O.L.; martin_fierro
In addition to the advice above, try to get one where the engine is not made by China, but you need to be careful as even Japanese manufacturers may sub out manufacture of the engine

Much (but not all, be careful) of the Generac line is made in the USA.

39 posted on 12/02/2011 11:07:06 AM PST by whd23 (Every time a link is de-blogged an angel gets its wings.)
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To: whd23

Cool, glad you have an efficient fridge. I have seen a vanilla fridge stall a 1KW generator, flat not work and fail ugly. For the money, I’d do 4KW and not worry.


40 posted on 12/02/2011 11:09:27 AM PST by Mycroft Holmes (Returned for regrooving...)
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