Posted on 03/19/2015 6:01:22 PM PDT by SkyPilot
This is a Jeep thread, for all Jeep owners and Jeep lovers. Contribute as you wish or are driven. Long live Freedom. May God Bless You!
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Agreed. The factory Wrangler shift knob is larger than the after market one I used, and the numbers and reverse are in silver under clear plastic. When you look directly at it, it looks OK, but from the side or in glare, its definitely tougher.
I plan on making Saturday a major service day, a lot of small parts have shown up.
One thing I plan on doing is cracking the fuel line up top and give a healthy shot of fresh non-corn gas and see if it will prime and run.
If that fuel pump is dead, I am sorely tempted to convert to electrical. I had enough misery getting that replacement to bolt up. Typical knockoff aftermarket tolerances.
Good strategy. I bet you have to replace the fuel pump in the end though.
I got the "change oil" light - so tomorrow I'll do that minor job. Found out the best recommended for my year Jeep is 5.7 Liters of 5W20 (synthetic), and the filter should be Royal Purple, MOPAR, or K&N Engineering. If Autozone or NAPA doesn't have those, I'll go with a Purlator.
Also read, on these later model Jeeps, to turn off the "Change Oil" message words on the dash, turn the key on, bring gas to the floor 3 full times, turn key off.
On the earlier model Jeeps, you don't have to worry about this nonsense!
Ever check into Baldwin filters?
I have a good feeling you are right. If it is dead, I’m going to pick up an electric conversion kit in stock at O’Riely’s.
The original replacement is $100 and the electric kit is $70 or so.
A few people I’ve read of went electric on their vintage models. If it works for me and I can ditch the mechanical, suits me.
This won’t be your problem but I’ll chunk it out there.
Knew a guy back in the early 80s who related how he had run out of gas in his Chevy pickup. He bought gas and a funnel. Afterwards he would periodically have fuel problems. Eventually got to the stage of pulling his saddle tanks. In the one he had used to re-fuel with the gas can he found the trouble source. A label that had been stuck on the inside of the funnel was washed off by the gas and went into the tank and was sometimes being sucked up against the line inlet.
I think the electric conversion kit is the way to go.
Here is a thread of someone doing that on an early CJ.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/electric-fuel-pump-conversion-501031/
Just changed the oil on the Jeep. Didn't put in the drain plug at first! Wow, how stupid. Spilled a bunch of oil. I felt like such an idiot. Only spilled about a quart or so. I had a 5 liter jug of 5W 20 synthetic. I actually caught about 1/2 quart, and reused that which was caught in my (clean) catch pan. I don't think that does any harm, as it was new oil. The autopart store was closed and I didn't feel like waiting until morning.
Bump. Must resist temptation to post pics.
Wow. I hate labels. You buy something today, and you have to spend 10 minutes with GoofOff to remove the glue.
No, please, please post.
Nope. I have reasons for maintaining anonymity, but do appreciate the thread, having to this day always had one, and often two, in the stable since I got my license back in the years when the CJ-7 was still in production.
Here is a photo of a CJ-7 just for fun.
Probably not but the main flex line is original and I have a replacement that I bought months ago. There is a chance some internal breakdown and clogging. Ran into that once too.
Nice! Mine was copper with the ba’dass flame gold striping and bi’gass lettering on the hood. I miss that one - ‘cept for the stalling on hot August days.
Just remembered another guy with a weird fuel bug. He had a little loose sliver of rubber on the INSIDE wall of a fuel line. It would open and close acting like a valve.
Speaking of Jeeps...
Anyone have any recommendations for a new ragtop for my ‘95 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande?
According to this thread for a Jeep YJ, the best is Best Top, the worst is Pavement Ends.
Considering how much use and abuse soft tops get, it doesn't make much sense to me to scrimp on a couple of hundred bucks. I would go with the better top if you have the means.
Also, check out this Soft Top Advisor from Quadratec. Just enter your info, and it gives you ever bit of data and products you need:
I installed a Best Top Sunrider in 2007, and the rear window’s fabric by the zippers started fraying last year. It finally cracked off badly. The top is still good, and I tried to order another window section, but they discontinued that model.
The hard tops comes off pretty easy - the trick is stowing it properly so it does not get damaged.
I have the electrical pump electrically roughed in. The biggest hangup believe it or not was a barb to step down fro 3/8 to 1/4.
Tonight was the first time it’s ran in a few weeks. Hums just fine with the one from O’Rielly. I ran it with a remote starter and a jumper wire to the hot side of the pump. Gave it a good 5 minutes. Carb needs adjusting or it may be messed up to from sitting. I’ll tap the side with a rubber mallet in case a float is stuck.
Have to order a socket for a flasher and an LED flasher that I found that can handle LED and normal power.
Me, a good set of crimpers, and heat shrink have been good friends lately.
Thanks for the diagram. I’m a member of that board and the guy sent me a link with the same one. My oil pressure switch is messed up and I don’t seem to have the touch to break it loose.
I get it roadworthy again and book some shop time with the guy, maybe he can take a shot at it while dealing with the laundry list.
That does sometime work. How is running this weekend? Sounds like you scored a major victory with the electrical pump - congrats.
I have some sort of EVAP leak or something. I am getting a variety of codes: everything from Catalytic Converter Efficieny Below Threshhold, so Small EVAP Leak, EVAP general, + the annoying "gascap" light.
I think it might be the EGR valve, but it could also be the canister or the leak detection pump (or an 02 sensor, or a leak in the tank, and on and on). If I can replace the EGR valve, I might take it for a smoke test to see if they can tell me if it has a leak somewhere.
Driving me crazy. The CATs can't be bad, the car has less than 38K.
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