Well, if you wasted your money on a Range Rover, you ARE an idiot...
(duck and run)
Hey Doug...buy a CarMD diagnostic code reader and relax will ya?
Just get under the hood, remove one of the terminals on your battery and reinstall it. If the check engine still comes back on, take it to auto supply place and have them run a check for problems.
I had a 2000 Saab. When auto the transmission is locked on the highway cruise, and the torque converter calls for a downshift; and it does not happen in time, you get the light.
You have to have a combination of load, speed, hill and throttle input to reproduce the error. How often remains a mystery. Reset by lifting battery cable. Good perhaps for a year, or a day?
In California, my 2005 Trailblazer on a certain fly over climb to the 73 toll road triggers the light. The same thing. I’m thinking of keeping the trans in 3rd until after the fly over to avoid.
Yes, the temperature, oil and electric gauges are far more important.
Yep code readers are a must. Even if you can’t do the repair you can take it in the shop and tell them the codes so that they can’t charge $40 for doing the same 1 minute test. Truly it took me one minute to determine it was time for a new gas cap last month. And just last Sunday one more minute to determine it’s time for some new spark plugs / coil Packs for my Mazda 6.
The check engine light is a good diagnostic tool for technically inclined people with vehicles like Jeeps. But like most other tools, it’s not so useful for those who are not technically inclined.
There’s a reason they’re referred to as “IDIOT lights”...
Ha ha ha, wait until a check engine light dispatches an EPA hit squad to your house. If your lucky, you won’t spend the next 30 years in emissions prison.
In the mean time, I drive daily a 40 year old vehicle with about 12 moving parts in the fuel system, and an electrical system that has a schematic that would fit on the back of an envelope with room to spare.
Oh, and short of blowing it up with dynamite, it will crank and start reliably in even the coldest climates.
Last 4 cars owned, Check Engine light. Every time was a minor environmental-regulation-based “emission” issue that mechanics had problems diagnosing.
In my state, they don’t even let you in the door to the state emissions testing place if that d-— light is on.
Follow the money.
Computer systems in cars just ain't very scary. They consist of a bunch'o'on-off sensors wired to the computer, a dirt-simple ROM circuit board, which then tells a dozen or so cheap valves, and switches what to do. BFD. What they are doing is balancing the air/fuel ratio depending on everything from your altitude (barometric pressure and ambient temperature) to the amount of ethanol your gas station is adding or not adding to the real stuff and its octane rating, coolant temperature, speed, load, etc. Today's cars are an incredible marvel for sure, but the "computer" --- same old rube goldberg engineering, just really really slick.... and tiny. Differential diagnosis is the trick. Data. Early computers had the good manners to flash Code signal lights and give you the key in the owners manual. Too simple. Had to be stopped.
Except that it would cost dealer service depts a fortune, it should really be cake to replace the dumb Warning Light with a real-info readout. E.G., "Yo, Golux your catalytic converter is on fire and you left the baby carrier ...and baby...on the roof"
Case in point: Nissan Idle Air Control Motor (who knew?) blows, that in turn blew a ($1.95 Radio Shack)resistor/condenser thing in the "computer" which is a circuit board about as complex as the one in an automatic coffee maker. Cost: Idle air motor (ebay) $65. Rebuilt computer, $250. (Nerds out there on the web do anything for a buck. I'm buying the drinks if you can solder this embarrassingly simple gizmo yourself ... or figure out how to repair and test a fried circuit on the board.) Labor: 1.5 hours (OK 24 hours to figure it out! Youtube is your friend. Nissans all over the country are blowing this circuit and helpful souls communicate the fix.... and anything else you can possibly think of. Heartwarming.
OBTW, dealer estimate: $1750!
DIY Requirements: 1/4" drive metric sockets and ratchets, including swivel sockets, extensions in every known length, and the top secret articulated ratcheting box-end wrenches from 6 mm up. Really good screwdrivers help, Allen sockets, Star sockets, Star sockets with post, are also helpful. Think toaster repair. For mechanical work, you'll still need all the usual stuff, but for this warning light crap, think very small. Sun systems readout and documentation stuff, if you are really really serious. Oh yeah, check ALL vacuum lines.
My chenk engine light has been on since ethanol was introduced to gasoline. When I lived in North Texas and would fill up with pure gasoline in Oklahoma, it went off.
My Hyundai sends me emails.
It took me one week (with dealer help and reading the manual), to drive my vehicle. Damn thing communicates with me through various electronic/voice/touch methods. Reminds me of Christine.
Bad ass vehicle though...
5.56mm
Not rocket science. i can manually pull the codes from my xterra, get problem fixed & manually rest the codes. :). Can do it with son’s honda, too.
I know it works because i have not had any issue with passing emissions.
Automobiles are amazing machines. They get you to where you want to go 99.99% of the time. But people still like to gripe and complain about them.