Posted on 11/25/2014 11:06:02 AM PST by Eric Pode of Croydon
Edited on 11/25/2014 11:43:23 AM PST by Admin Moderator. [history]
It happened on Thursday night. I went out to my car. I climbed inside. I turned the key in the ignition. And
(Excerpt) Read more at jalopnik.com ...
Yep. Had a 97 Acura that kept giving a check engine light every time I went down a hill. Got a decoder that showed an exhaust pressure failure. Fix was to replace the engine, basically. I used the “reset code” function instead. Just kept it plugged into the computer outlet, on the seat next to me. Never had any problems.
We bought the icemaker part from a retired appliance salesman on Ebay who sells parts for about $15.
I spend so few minutes in my car that an expensive stereo would be a waste.
I have had a code reader for about 10 years now...someone lost it for me so instead of spending another $100+ or so for reader that can do most everything, including ABS issues, I switched up to a Mini ELM bluetooth reader from Ebay for $10 shipped.
I then bought Torque Pro for my smartphone for $5.
Not only does it work just as well, it has all these cool gauges, can give you your 0-60 times, show your turbo boost levels, etc. It's a way better solution than the standalone readers unless you can afford one of those $8,000 snap-ons or whatever.
Assuming Toyota puts the manuals for other models together similarly, the instructions for mine were in the “OPERATION OF INSTRUMENTS AND CONTROLS” section that explains the various dash warning lights.
You may be correct, because when I picked it up from the dealer I had to change it from the trip meter back to the regular odometer.
OBDII is a typical government solution to a non-existent problem. With the computer power available in the cars, it is likely that the automobile makers would have instituted real diagnostic systems that are useful.
Last 4 cars owned, Check Engine light. Every time was a minor environmental-regulation-based “emission” issue that mechanics had problems diagnosing.
In my state, they don’t even let you in the door to the state emissions testing place if that d-— light is on.
Follow the money.
Computer systems in cars just ain't very scary. They consist of a bunch'o'on-off sensors wired to the computer, a dirt-simple ROM circuit board, which then tells a dozen or so cheap valves, and switches what to do. BFD. What they are doing is balancing the air/fuel ratio depending on everything from your altitude (barometric pressure and ambient temperature) to the amount of ethanol your gas station is adding or not adding to the real stuff and its octane rating, coolant temperature, speed, load, etc. Today's cars are an incredible marvel for sure, but the "computer" --- same old rube goldberg engineering, just really really slick.... and tiny. Differential diagnosis is the trick. Data. Early computers had the good manners to flash Code signal lights and give you the key in the owners manual. Too simple. Had to be stopped.
Except that it would cost dealer service depts a fortune, it should really be cake to replace the dumb Warning Light with a real-info readout. E.G., "Yo, Golux your catalytic converter is on fire and you left the baby carrier ...and baby...on the roof"
Case in point: Nissan Idle Air Control Motor (who knew?) blows, that in turn blew a ($1.95 Radio Shack)resistor/condenser thing in the "computer" which is a circuit board about as complex as the one in an automatic coffee maker. Cost: Idle air motor (ebay) $65. Rebuilt computer, $250. (Nerds out there on the web do anything for a buck. I'm buying the drinks if you can solder this embarrassingly simple gizmo yourself ... or figure out how to repair and test a fried circuit on the board.) Labor: 1.5 hours (OK 24 hours to figure it out! Youtube is your friend. Nissans all over the country are blowing this circuit and helpful souls communicate the fix.... and anything else you can possibly think of. Heartwarming.
OBTW, dealer estimate: $1750!
DIY Requirements: 1/4" drive metric sockets and ratchets, including swivel sockets, extensions in every known length, and the top secret articulated ratcheting box-end wrenches from 6 mm up. Really good screwdrivers help, Allen sockets, Star sockets, Star sockets with post, are also helpful. Think toaster repair. For mechanical work, you'll still need all the usual stuff, but for this warning light crap, think very small. Sun systems readout and documentation stuff, if you are really really serious. Oh yeah, check ALL vacuum lines.
My ‘96 Ford Ranger had a Check Engine light that came on at 25,000 miles automaticaly (I ignored it), and it automatically turned off at 50,000 miles, and when it turned on again at 75,000 miles I just told the new owner that he should not have bought a Ford.
RE: the Tacoma maint required light.
That’s your time-to-change-the-oil indicator. It starts blinking about 4,500 miles after the last reset; at 5,000 miles, it stays on solid. You can’t set it to where it won’t come on, but you can reset it yourself:
The Tacoma has the regular odometer readout, and it has 2 trip odometers (A & B). The reset procedure is to (with the truck off and the key out) select the “Trip A” odometer, then push and hold it while you insert the key and turn it to “ON” (not “Start”, “ON” - where the dash lights all come on). Keep holding it for at least 5 seconds - the light should reset and stay off until you go another 4500 miles.
In California, you cannot pass the smog check if your Check Engine Light is on. Its a heck of a racket.
I now drive a 2015 Taco and it is by far the most complex peice of machinery I have ever operated.
There is a secret filter meant to prevent reverse release of gas fumes when the vehicle is turned off.
My goal in life is to find that filter and remove it; word on the street is that I can realize an increase of 2 to 4 HP.
The filter serves no other purpose.
My chenk engine light has been on since ethanol was introduced to gasoline. When I lived in North Texas and would fill up with pure gasoline in Oklahoma, it went off.
I imagine you meant "gas". Mine has that feature also. Only no matter what I do it stays on. I even replaced the cap and had the mechanic reset. Still get the check engine along with the check gas cap.
I had an ‘80 Olds Cutlass Brougham that did that when I got over 60.
But it will have been serviced properly and at 200,000 miles for the third owner will still be dependable.
Speaking of lowering maintenance costs, the ease of changing basic disc brakes, and do so without specialized tools would probably surprise a lot of people. Set of brakes for my Toyota is only $18, for maybe a half hours worth of work. Even the “cheap” brake places charge over 4x that ...
When the dealership does service they turn light off, as do the guys at the gas station who service my car. Too bad it can’t be turned off permanently, or can it? Maybe learning how to do that would help.
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