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Brake work - caliper question

Posted on 01/31/2012 9:47:56 PM PST by djf

I have a mid-80's Blazer with disc brakes on the front, one is hopelessly seized and took me about an hour and fifteen minutes to get off... so new calipers on both sides is in the planning stage, but I am wondering. I will be able to almost fill the calipers w/brake fluid before I attach the main brake lines, or I can mount them empty, open the bleeder valve, and fill them from the top.

Which is best? Why?


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To: smokingfrog
He already said it was 3WD.

/johnny

21 posted on 01/31/2012 10:10:55 PM PST by JRandomFreeper (Gone Galt)
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To: smokingfrog

It’s the S10 not the big K Blazer


22 posted on 01/31/2012 10:11:07 PM PST by djf (http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/2801220/posts)
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To: JRandomFreeper

Typing in the dark... well, almost


23 posted on 01/31/2012 10:12:06 PM PST by djf (http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/2801220/posts)
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To: JRandomFreeper

Broad form gives you liability only. If you drive your rig off the cliff, they don’t pay you a dime for repairs.

But I can drive any one of my 3 rigs and my entire insurance bill is < 650 bucks a year.

If someone hits me, their liability will cover my rig.


24 posted on 01/31/2012 10:14:51 PM PST by djf (http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/2801220/posts)
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To: HANG THE EXPENSE; djf

Seems to me you could even pump it yourself if you had no assistant, with the nuisance of having to keep stopping and refilling the master cylinder, if your clear hose is long enough to run into a jar where you can see it. Use a clean dry hose and don’t put any purged fluid back into the system. (Absorb the waste into kitty litter or whatever your local environuts say, although if non silicone then it will be water miscible, non-hint non-hint.)


25 posted on 01/31/2012 10:15:01 PM PST by HiTech RedNeck (Sometimes progressives find their scripture in the penumbra of sacred bathroom stall writings (Tzar))
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To: djf

Wait - it took you an hour fifteen to get a caliper off of a chevy?

(shakes head)


26 posted on 01/31/2012 10:16:11 PM PST by patton ("Je pense donc je suis," - My Horse.)
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To: djf
If it were me I would put them on right out of the box, attach the lines, fill the master cylinder and properly bleed the break lines.

If you disconnect the break line and reattach it to the new caliper with any fluid in it you will be sure to create an air bubble in the line and the system will not function properly.

If you don't know how, see here for some decent instructions: How To Bleed Brakes

Or for around $25 you can get a "bleeder kit" and skip the helper in the above example. The kit is handy but if it were me, I would find a helper. The old fashioned way (as described in the link) works just as well and you can use the money saved to buy some beer :)

Hope this helps and good luck.

27 posted on 01/31/2012 10:16:48 PM PST by voteNRA (A citizenry armed with rifles simply cannot be tyrannized)
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To: djf
Lotta work for a truck that might be worth 500 bucks, but dang, when it’s running good, it runs great!

It isn't pre computer, but it is pre-Onstar, and that's something...

I have a 37 year old van I keep in running condition, and still use as a backup commercial vehicle when the fancier stuff goes down. If it comes to bugout time, it's going with, simply because I can fix it.

28 posted on 01/31/2012 10:17:55 PM PST by Smokin' Joe (How often God must weep at humans' folly. Stand fast. God knows what He is doing)
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To: patton

I tell ya, that puppy was SEIZED!! Even after I got it off, I can’t budge the piston at all.


29 posted on 01/31/2012 10:18:49 PM PST by djf (http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/2801220/posts)
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To: djf

Oh, mount them empty and bleed the system. You’ll likely be amazed at the crud that you get out of the lines—so keep bleeding until the fluid is clear.


30 posted on 01/31/2012 10:19:39 PM PST by Smokin' Joe (How often God must weep at humans' folly. Stand fast. God knows what He is doing)
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To: patton
Wait - it took you an hour fifteen to get a caliper off of a chevy?

Hard to find an American Made C-clamp big enough nowadays--the Chinese ones break.

31 posted on 01/31/2012 10:22:36 PM PST by Smokin' Joe (How often God must weep at humans' folly. Stand fast. God knows what He is doing)
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To: voteNRA
disconnect the break line

I promised to be nice tonight. So I'll practice that with you.

What kind of break?

Arm?

Leg?

Are we using a user adjustment tool?

Or did you mean 'brake', as in a wood shoe against an iron tyre (archaic, but correct) or brake as in calipers and rotors?

/johnny

32 posted on 01/31/2012 10:23:21 PM PST by JRandomFreeper (Gone Galt)
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To: Smokin' Joe

That old GM stuff, I can get an alternator for it for like 50 bucks.
My Nissan will cost me a good 150-180 bucks for an alternator, and that’s still me doing the install!


33 posted on 01/31/2012 10:24:46 PM PST by djf (http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/2801220/posts)
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To: djf

Chevy rotors slip off. Toss the rotor and caliper.

Pull tire, bang out caliper pins, hammer on rotor, toss all of the above.

Rotor is $25, caliper about $10.


34 posted on 01/31/2012 10:25:01 PM PST by patton ("Je pense donc je suis," - My Horse.)
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To: djf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwp&NR=1&v=L0oUejw5Edc

If it’s an S10, I’m not sure it’s worth the trouble. ;)


35 posted on 01/31/2012 10:27:28 PM PST by smokingfrog ( sleep with one eye open (<o> ---)
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To: Smokin' Joe

Ford F-150 Calipers are - get this - $6

The heck with repairing them.


36 posted on 01/31/2012 10:27:55 PM PST by patton ("Je pense donc je suis," - My Horse.)
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To: djf
Broad form gives you liability only. If you drive your rig off the cliff, they don’t pay you a dime for repairs.

Being judgment-proof seems like a better option.

The opposition lawyers look at your net worth and don't even bother filing a claim.

Dirt poor (on paper) and toothless has advantages.

Who wants to sue someone standing on a banana peel at the corner of Broke and Dead?

/johnny

37 posted on 01/31/2012 10:29:07 PM PST by JRandomFreeper (Gone Galt)
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To: djf

I work at an auto parts store, we also sell “one man bleeder kits.” This post interest me since I just got a 1999 Blazer myself.


38 posted on 01/31/2012 10:29:52 PM PST by Nowhere Man (Holodeck Computer: End Obama Administration simulation program, NOW!!!!)
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To: HiTech RedNeck

Agreed.I was assuming that the guy would purge the system of all the old brake fluid first.I hate brake fluid.


39 posted on 01/31/2012 10:30:43 PM PST by HANG THE EXPENSE (Life is tough.It's tougher when you're stupid.)
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To: djf
Yeah, mine is a chevy 1/2 ton, almost 300,000 hard miles on it, and about ready for a new mill (the last one, fully rebuilt, lasted 125,000 so far, but I had an A&P (airframe and powerplant) mechanic friend walk me through the build, so I can't take all the credit for that.

The new motor is on my 'to do' list along with a host of other minor repairs and some bodywork and paint, before I 'retire' it to pioneer vehicle status at 40 years old.

It won't be a commercial vehicle at that point, but one ten dollar set of tags and it's good forever (no annual registration fees).

It was a mere pup of seven years when I got it...

40 posted on 01/31/2012 10:31:28 PM PST by Smokin' Joe (How often God must weep at humans' folly. Stand fast. God knows what He is doing)
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