Posted on 01/31/2012 9:47:56 PM PST by djf
I have a mid-80's Blazer with disc brakes on the front, one is hopelessly seized and took me about an hour and fifteen minutes to get off... so new calipers on both sides is in the planning stage, but I am wondering. I will be able to almost fill the calipers w/brake fluid before I attach the main brake lines, or I can mount them empty, open the bleeder valve, and fill them from the top.
Which is best? Why?
I can mount them empty, open the bleeder valve, and fill them from the top.
Probably so.
I need to bleed the whole system, the fluid hasn’t been totally swapped out for years...
It’s also gonna get new half-axles the same day. Lotta work for a truck that might be worth 500 bucks, but dang, when it’s running good, it runs great!
No matter how much you fill them, you’re still going to have to bleed the feeder lines of air big time. I would tend not to want to spill brake fluid, not because it’s expensive, but out of not wanting to clean it up. And, to be able to detect a leak should it occur once the whole thing is assembled. Which is hard if you have little puddles of brake fluid that you haven’t cleaned up yet. What’s the difference in saved effort, you’d have to pump the brake pedal 8 times instead of 3 times? I would not pre-fill them.
I’d bleed em through. less mess.
I'm a cook now. (The lawyers made me say that)
/johnny
Dump the car. The brakes will be only the beginning of your troubles. Is it a 4x4?
Lol!
Mount them dry and attach a clear line to the bleeder valve with the other end in a glass bottle.That will show you when you have all the air out of the line plus keep it from making an unholy mess.
I also would go with the empty install, esp since you will be doing so much other work. You can put a tube over the bleeder and into a jar and reduce some of the mess as you bleed them, and also lessen the risk of sucking air if the coordination btwn the one pumping and the one bleeding is not good.
Around here it is actually illegal to work on your car in the street.
Yup.
And the 3wd works excellent.
Two years ago I put new carpet in it, new headliner, and did mass electrical stuff... then, all of last year, I put less than 200 miles on it, I have it more only so when I need it I got it to haul something or if the weather is crap...
Cost me 50 bucks a year to keep it registered and it’s old enough it doesn’t require a smog test, so what the hey...
and I have broad form insurance so it doesn’t cost me anything additional insurance-wise.
I have a vehicle worth 900, heck its worth 5000 to me. It keeps on running and dependable.
Never, ever, dump a second generation Blazer. They’re just too awesome.
How do I get that. I am in Texas.
Wait... We're talking about an ancient jeep or a VAX?
And either way, just how blind is your insurance agent? And is he taking new customers?
/johnny
I don’t think it much matters. Just don’t do what I did once, and put a pad on backwards. Hey, I was tired.
It’s an 84 with the 2.8
I don’t mind the 2.8 not having alot of power because I don’t have it for that. But that 700R4 is one picky-azz tranny, before the redesigns.
New block in it in 99 that probably has less than 25K on it.
Like I said, when it’s running good, it runs great!
First I need to know if it’s 4WD and does it have a removable top?
My FAQ says 'live boy/dead girl, state senator, rinse and repeat as required'.
I've got questions, too.
/johnny
But first, You really should let the open line drain the flush the old nasty fluid out first anyway.
Just keep pouring fluid into the reservoir (don't let it run all the way down).
Then,do as I described above.
Leave tires off until your done with all the bleeding.
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