Home gardening offers ways to trim grocery costs [Survival Today, an on going thread]

http://melrosemirror.media.mit.edu/servlet/pluto?state=3030347061676530303757656250616765303032696430303434353234

Bobotie

by Hedy Kodish

This is a recipe for one of my favorite meat loafs:

1 lb ground beef
3 tbsp chopped dried apricots
1 tbsp curry
1 tbsp vinegar
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp sugar
onion and cayenne pepper to taste

Put two bay leaves on top and bake at 325-350 for about 20 minutes.

December 15, 2000

http://melrosemirror.media.mit.edu/servlet/pluto?state=3030347061676530303757656250616765303032696430303434333935

Green tomatoes

... what to do.

Russ Priestley

Now that it is the time for green tomatoes, at least locally. Here are two tips for the neophyte gardener. Green tomatoes can be wrapped individually in newspaper and placed in a cool spot. They will ripen to bright red in a couple of weeks or more. You may enjoy the end of your crop for Thanksgiving.

And here’s a recipe which you may utilize now. I heard it first from Paul Parent who ran a program of garden advice for many years on a major Boston radio station. It started as a one hour program on Sunday morning, but soon, due to popular demand, it was extended to two, then three and finally, four hours. He now owns a florist and garden business in Scarborough, ME.

Are you ready for this? It’s Raspberry Jam made with green tomatoes.

3 cups of green tomatoes finely chopped, or put into your blender
2 cups of white sugar
one .6 ounce pkg., or two .3 oz pkgs. Raspberry gelatin
Mix all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook at a low boil for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Let cool. Put into peanut butter jars which have a liner seal in cap, or seal with wax. It may also be frozen, until used. Seeds from the tomatoes, plus the gelatin will taste like Raspberry Jam. As an alternative, Strawberry flavored gelatin may be used.

November 3, 2,000

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Forgotten cookies

... nice and light after a big meal, or just anytime

by Kay McCarte

(Meringue Kisses)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2 Egg Whites (Room Temperature
1/8 tsp. Cream of Tartar
2/3 cup Sugar
1 tsp. Vanilla
1 cup Milk Chocolate Bits
or
Regular Chocolate Bits
or
M&Ms
1 cup Walnuts, chopped

Beat egg whites until frothy. Slowly add cream of tartar and sugar and beat until very stiff. Beat in vanilla and then fold in bits and nuts.

Drop by teaspoonful onto ungreased cookie sheet.

Place in preheated oven, turn oven off and leave, without opening door, for eight hours.

Makes about 30-40 cookies.

September 5, 2003

[My friend Mary made these for me, they are good...granny]

http://www.survival-center.com/dl-list/dl13-sta.htm

Staying Alive
by Bill Revill
Published in American Surival Guide, November 1994

Permanently leave the following in a vehicle

* Water bottle (2 pints)
* Canned/dried food
* Nylon shelter (hootch)
* Machete
* Torch
* 12 volt light
* Toilet tissue
* Leather gloves
* Nylon rope (30 feet)
* Silva compass
* Sun screen cream
* Canvas water filter
* Tomahawk
* Hunting Knife
* Candles
* Fire starter kit
* Small frying pan
* Folding stove
* Solid fuel tablets
* .22 Rifle (single shot)
* Ammo
* Space blanket
* Folding shovel
* Roll of thin wire

Knapsack Survival Kit

No matter what the destination or reason for the trip, my knapsack survival kit travels with me whenever I venture beyond the blacktop. It’s the very first item thrown on board. No exceptions.

If I happen to be taking off as navigator in a friend’s vehicle, the knapsack is still mandatory equipment. Survival is a personal responsibility so it’s unwise to count on someone else being sufficiently prepared.

This entire kit is contained in a robust, canvas knapsack that, when full, weighs just under 7 pounds and takes no more space than two six-packs.

Here are some examples of what’s in it:

* Water purifiers
* Wind/waterproof matches
* Water filter
* Candle stub
* Plastic zip-lock bags
* Solid fuel
* Compass
* Survival blanket
* Notebook and pencil
* Nylon para cord
* Fishing kit
* Small tent pegs
* Dried stew mix
* Plastic eyelets
* Dried soups
* Cotton gloves
* Biscuits
* Toilet tissue
* Tea and coffee
* Soap
* Sugar
* Repellent
* Tube milk
* Field dressings
* Breakfast cereal
* Mosquito coils
* Pocket knife
* Sewing kit

In all, there are 122 items randomly packed into the kit, all of which directly or indirectly contribute to the six basic survival requirements. But here too, food items require rotation at least annually.

[Ladies, do not forget walking shoes....]

http://www.survival-center.com/dl-list/dl11-ess.htm

The Ten Essentials
by Scott Stoddard
(Originally published in the American Survival Guide, January 1992)

“DON’T leave home without it.” But what good will a green plastic credit card do you 20 miles from the nearest paved road? What do you really need when out away from civilization?

Experienced outdoor enthusiasts know what items are most important to bring - even for short walks or hikes out of base camp. The “10 Essentials” are items that cannot be improvised from materials lying on the forest floor. To be found without these few items, even only a few miles from camp or cabin, can spell disaster.

The standard list of 10 essentials varies slightly depending on which source you go to. The Boy Scouts have their list, the Sierra Club has another, and the Mountaineers in their outdoor bible, Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, have come up with another variation. They all incorporate the same basic items.

The following list is not to be considered cast in concrete - each survivalist should customize his or her own kit for the barest minimum of supplies. Note that the first three items are for finding your way, the second three are for your protection, and the last four are for emergencies.

1. A MAP of the area you will be hiking, canoeing, or camping should be detailed enough so that you can find man-made items like trails, unimproved roads, power lines, etc., and natural features such as rivers, streams, hills and other terrain land marks that will guide you. A U.S Geological Survey Topographical map has all of these features and more. For an index to topo maps in your home state contact: U.S. Geological Survey, Map Distribution Section, Federal Center, Box 25286, Denver, CO 80225; (303) 236-7477. A 365 page book titled, The Map Catalog, (Every kind of map and chart on Earth and even some above it), is available from: High Country Enterprise, P.O. Box 746, Saguache, CO 81149; (719) 655-2432.

2. A map without a COMPASS is almost useless unless you possess a sixth sense in direction finding. I prefer the liquid filled “Silva” or “Suunto” compasses. These have straight edges that are useful in plotting bearings. Military lensatic compasses are more bulky and don’t have a clear base making map reading through the compass impossible. With both map and compass you should be able to “orient” the map by lining up magnetic north on the compass with the magnetic north arrow printed on the map. Once you do this, you’ll be able to identify terrain features and plot your course.

3. Be sure that the FLASHLIGHT you bring doesn’t have a switch that is easily turned on and off. You may find that it has been accidentally on all day, and when you need it the batteries will be already worn out. In that case don’t put the batteries inside the unit until you are required to use it. Even if you have the most advanced, water proof machined aluminum light source, bring a spare bulb and spare alkaline batteries just in case. A Mini- Mag Lite will fit in the smallest of 10 essential kits but may not be adequate for all-night travel. Headlamps are useful for cave exploring and when the hands are otherwise occupied.

4. On one trip to the top of an 11,000 foot peak I forgot my SUNGLASSES and I nearly went snowblind. After tiring of looking through my balled-up fists I finally had to cut slits in some cardboard and jury-rig some Eskimo sunglasses. Sunglasses are available today that stop 99 percent of ultraviolet light. Poly carbonate lenses with “wraparound” designs provide more protection against wind and side glare. Glacier glasses are recommended for snowy conditions. They usually have polarized lenses and leather side shields to block out the side glare. Buy some retaining straps when you purchase your sunglasses. Croakies or Chums cost less than $5 and will prevent damage or loss of your expensive eye wear. Add some sunscreen to your kit for total solar protection.

5. EXTRA FOOD and WATER. This category puzzles me a bit. Does it mean that I should have two water bottles filled with water and two bags of trail mix? The amount of water you bring should be determined by the length of the trip and the temperature and physical demand put on your body. Water should be used as needed and not rationed out,(i.e.,a few ounces now and no more for another hour). If your body needs water, it needs it now not three hours from now! Water purification tablets might help you use other water sources. As far as food, some hikers throw cans of sardines or tuna fish into their packs knowing that they wouldn’t eat it unless there was an emergency. Normal trail foods (dried fruits, nuts, and granola) should be eaten at regular intervals to resupply the body with energy. Pemmican is one of the most concentrated high energy foods you can carry. See the Oct. 1991 ASG issue on page 57 for directions on its preparation.

6. Once again, the EXTRA CLOTHING you bring is determined by the time of the year and the weather. A breezy summer hike may require only a poncho for rain protection and a light nylon wind jammer for possible cold. A day snow hike gets more complicated. An extra jacket or sweater may do, but if you will be in extreme mountain conditions, a bivouac sack, insulation pad, and a winter sleeping bag may be the only thing that will save you should the weather go bad. In normal conditions you should at least throw a metalized space blanket into your kit. This with a poncho can be used to rig up an improvised lean-to shelter. Tape the space blanket to the poncho for support, tie the poncho to trees to form a lean-to and then build a fire in front. The space blanket will reflect the heat of the fire back on to you.

7. Expensive WATERPROOFED MATCHES have always seemed a little too gimmicky for my taste. Strike anywhere wood matches are a lot cheaper and can be stored in a waterproof container such as an empty plastic 35mm film can. If they’re too long, just clip off the ends to the right length. A more convenient item for starting fires can be found at your local liquor or convenience store. Throw-away plastic cigarette lighters work well and some have adjustable flames in case you need “blow torch” action. Other fire sparkers such as the flint/magnesium bars on key chains are good back-ups should you lose your matches or lighter.

8. FIRESTARTERS. In this category you can include a regular paraffin candle (store inside a plastic bag so it doesn’t melt in your pack), commercial firestarter tablets, Sterno, or my favor ite - Hexamine tablets that are available at most Army/Navy surplus stores. Hexamine tablets won’t evaporate like Trioxane Fuel Bars do when the wrapper is ripped, and come six tablets to a small cardboard tube.

A firestarter is used only when conditions make it difficult to start a fire. Preparation is the key to fire building. You need plenty of kindling sticks or pieces of wood split thin with your knife to make the larger diameter branches catch. Most people begin their fires with inadequate supplies of tinder and kindling and are frustrated when they can’t get a three inch thick log to catch fire.

9. A POCKET KNIFE is your most important 10 essentials item. Among other things it helps in first aid, food preparation, and fire building. As long as you have a knife you can make fire. Striking steel on any flint-like rock will produce sparks that can catch fire in carefully prepared tinder and kindling - materials you have gathered and prepared using the knife. More elaborate versions of pocket knives contain a treasure chest of useful tools: saws, tweezers, scissors, screwdrivers, awls, toothpicks, can openers, etc A good Swiss Army knife will bring out the MacGyver in all of us. Don’t forget this item!

10. A FIRST AID KIT really isn’t one item but a collection of items that can contain the bare minimum of bandaids, aspirin, and iodine or on the other extreme contain suture kits, chemically activated cold packs and prescription drugs. This is where you will have to really do some customizing and personalizing. I store my first aid items in a plastic Zip Loc bag so that I can see everything inside and protect them from the weather. Along with an assortment of bandaids, gauze pads, and Steri-Strips, are the following: insect repellent, sunscreen, lip balm with SPF 21, triple antibiotic ointment, small bottle of Hibiclens Surgical Scrub, Aspirin, Diasorb tablets for diarrhea, Actifed (decongestant), Bonine (motion sickness), and Benadryl (antihistamine). Other items that are helpful are: a needle for splinter extraction, moleskin or Spenco Second Skin for blisters, Ace bandage, small needle-nose pliers, single-edge razor blades, and Calamine cream for insect bites.

The “11th” item of the 10 essentials most people carry is toilet paper. Other “essentials” I bring include: an Air Force type signal mirror, 50 feet of parachute cord, mini-Leatherman tool, and plastic fluorescent marking tape for trail marking. You might want to add a pocket signal flare and other items such as a smoke generator for signaling.

Your 10 essentials kit can be packaged in a number of ways. The most convenient is a small day pack. Day packs will hold your water bottle, extra clothing and food for most daytime trips. Get one made out of Cordura nylon with padded straps.

For extensive mountain bike rides many cyclists like to use waist packs or fanny packs to store their emergency gear and a banana or two. A waist pack is generally cooler to wear and provides for a lower center of gravity. Water is normally carried on the frame of the bicycle, so the packs can be smaller and lighter.

The last essential that needs to be taken on all your trips into the wilderness won’t fit in a survival kit. It’s called common sense and is a prime commodity in both the city and in the outdoors. If it looks like rain - don’t go. If it looks too high - stay back. If it’s getting dark - get back to your base. By avoiding unnecessary problems and dangers you will save on your own personal wear and tear, and probably get back home in one piece. However, if something does come up, at least you know you’ve got those 10 important items stowed away in your rucksack.

Subscription Information
American Survival Guide
Subscription Dept.
2145 W. La Palma Ave
Anaheim, CA 92801-1785

Editorial Note: Captain Dave highly recommends subscribing to ASG, which covers a broad range of survival topics.

http://www.survival-center.com/dl-list/dl5-sman.htm

Survival: A Manual that Could Save Your Life
by Chris & Gretchin Janowsky (Paladin Press)

This book is geared toward long-term survival in typical North American environments. A wonderful little book.

Chris runs the World Survival Institute in Tok, Alaska, and is a regular contributor to the American Survival Guide. The WSI can be reached at (907) 883-4243 or by writing to Box 394C, Tok, Alaska 99780. He also produces videotapes, including a set of 4 wilderness survival tapes, 5 combat martial arts tapes, and 5 emergency response tapes. Beware of imitators selling his Tracking & Ambush tape!

You can buy this book online from Amazon.com.

This is his 1980s-era list: His updated 1996 list is below.

Survival Belt:

* Belt pack 4”x5”x2” waterproof nylon
* Small folding knife 3” blade
* Knife sharpener (E-Z Lap Diamond Sharpener)
* 1 2” flint
* 1 large safety pin
* Waterproof tape
* Ziplock plastic bag
* Nylon twine
* Wire ring saw
* 1 container fire starter
* Flashlight micro-lithium
* Spool wire
* Gaff hook
* 1 nail
* 3 small animal snares
* 1 fishing kit
* Metal signal mirror

Fishing Kit:

* 4-1/2” x 3” x 1-1/4” box
* 4 assorted dry flies #12 hooks
* 4 assorted dry flies #14 hooks
* 3 large lead jigs in assorted colors #4 hooks
* 4 small ice fishing jigs, assorted colors #12 hooks
* 6 lead-lined jigs, assorted colors #6 hooks
* 6 short shank #4 hooks
* 4 short shank #14 hooks
* 4 short shank #2 hooks
* 6 long shank #4/0 hooks
* 1 gaff hook #8/0 hook
* 3 Swedish pimples, assorted sizes (ice fishing jigs)
* 2 large safety pins
* 1 band-tied 3-hook worm harness
* 1 Rapella lure
* 1 red & white Dare-devil
* 1 small gold spoon
* 1 small silver-spoon
* 1 container floating fly dope
* 6 4” plastic worms
* 3 2” plastic worms
* 6 3-way swivels
* 6 ball-bearing snap swivels
* Assortment of lead weights
* 1 tapered fly line
* 50 yards 18# test braided nylon squidding line
* 1 steel leader 8”
* 3 nylon leaders 20” each
* Container fish poison

Medical Kit:

* 1 sterile 2” Kling bandage
* Tweezers
* Scissors
* 5 Band-Aids
* 1 package Tums
* 4 sterile 3”x3” dressings
* 4 sterile 4”x4” dressings
* 1 sterile adaptic 4”x4” dressing
* 1 3x5 moleskin
* 4 individual application tubes antibiotic ointment
* 1 eyewash applicator with saline solution
* 1 pkg aspirin
* Triangular bandage
* 4 alcohol prep pads
* 4 butterfly bandages

Large Survival Kit for Indefinite Survival:

* Sewing awl
* Needle nose pliers with wire cutter
* Needle
* Dental floss (for sewing)
* Folding knife
* Sierra saw (folding)
* Ring saw
* Survival saw
* Snow shovel
* Visqueen (heavy plastic tarp)
* Water generator
* 3’x3’ signal cloth
* Fishing kit: safety pins, 150’ 18 lb line, hooks, floats, bait, etc.
* Multi vitamins
* Protein tablets
* Hard candy
* Dried eggs
* Dried milk
* Tent cloth
* File
* Silverware
* 3 space blankets
* Compass
* Signal mirror
* 2 sky blazers
* 4 candles
* Micro-lithium flashlight, battery, bulb
* Fire starter
* Matches
* Butane lighter
* Flint
* Bug dope (GI)
* 12 snares
* Spool snare wire
* Plastic drinking tube
* 2 heavy zip-lock bags
* P38 can opener
* Water purification tablets
* Sling shot rubber and ammo
* Diamond knife sharpener
* Whistle
* Towel & face cloth
* Soap
* 2 orange smoke signals
* 75 yards 42 lb nylon twine
* 75’ nylon cord
* 1 pair work gloves
* Metal cup
* Mess kit
* Small grill
* Mousetrap
* 1 roll surveyors tape
* Folding water jug

This is Chris’ 1996 list. Note how it has evolved.

Survival Kit

* Complete fishing kit
* Gill net
* Awl with extra thread
* 25 ft 550 cord
* Carton cutter (razor knife)
* Solar battery charger for AA batteries, with rechargeable batteries
* Signal mirror
* Magnifying glass
* 2 pre-made wire snares
* Bug dope (insect repellent)
* Camo paint kit
* Katadyne H2O purifier
* Extra H2O purification tablets
* Spool of nylon twine, with capped center holding safety pins and sewing needles
* 2 compasses (1 regular, 1 lensatic)
* Duct tape
* Waterproof notepad with pens and pencils
* Space blanket
* Thermometer
* Altibaro (combination altimeter and barometer)
* Spool of tripwire

Speed Pouch Inside Survival Kit:

* Lock-back knife
* EZ-Lap diamond knife sharpener
* WSI Hot Spark flint
* Fire starter
* Small flashlight
* Slingshot rubber
* Surveyor’s tape
* Electrolytes

Medical Kit

* 6 3X3 gauze pads
* 4X4 gauze pads (6 doubles, 4 singles)
* 3 4X5 Kling bandages
* 3 3X5 Kling bandages
* 1 field dressing
* 10 Adaptic nonadhering dressings
* Triangular bandage
* Ace bandage
* Assorted bandaids
* Assorted rolls of tape, 1 waterproof
* Safety pins, various sizes
* Moleskin
* Swab sticks
* Field surgical instruments
* Assorted sizes of suture thread and needles
* Iodine
* Antibiotic cream/ointment
* Lanacane cream
* Eye drops
* Tylenol
* Bactine
* Potassium iodine tablets
* Ground yarrow flowers and leaves
* Tums
* Vitamins
* Toothbrush
* Dental powder
* Dental floss
* Snake bite kit (optional)

Fanny Pack

* Fishing line, 2 kinds
* Small crookneck flashlight
* Mousetrap
* Book: Survival, A Manual That Could Save Your Life
* Waterproof collection bag
* Net bag
* 2 ponchos
* 100 ft 550 cord
* Sierra saw with extra blade
* 3 heavy-duty water bags
* 6 regular water bags

Misc Items for Belt

* Canteen with drinking/cooking cup and outside pocket for water tablets, large knife with sheath

If you need more information or details, you can buy Survival: A Manual that Could Save Your Life online from Amazon.com.

http://www.survival-center.com/dl-list/dl30-pak.htm

10 Packs for Survival
From: Joel Skousen

Joel is an author and expert in building secure homes. Please visit his web page for more information or to purchase his informative books.

Introduction

This booklet was prepared to provide you with the essential minimums for survival preparations. While it is not exhaustive in coverage, it is complete as to the needs of most people. Before adding long lists of your personal extra needs, try calculating the cost of these bare essentials. You will be amazed at the high cost of contingency preparations. This is not intended to discourage you, but rather, to help you realistically determine your future financial priorities so as to ensure you have bought the essentials before adding the sophisticated extras. After you have acquired about half of the recommended items, you will become aware of a critical lack of storage space within your home—if it is designed like most American houses. To assist you in planning for a more self-sufficient residence we have also included a brief summary of the concepts outlined in the 500 page Survival Home Manual. If you desire to pursue the subject in more detail, we suggest you order the manual direct from our Architectural offices using the order form at the end to the booklet.

Philosophy And Design Criteria of The Survival Home

Survival architecture is the unique design combination (in the proper proportion) of facilities, materials, supplies, equipment, knowledge and skill exactly matching a correct analysis of what shortages and crises we will face in the future. In achieving this purpose I make reference to the fact that “survival means more than solar” to emphasize the need to avoid becoming too involved with only one aspect of self-sufficiency at the expense of the others. This error in proper perspective has become the most common mistake in the entire craze for self-sufficiency. With each new product devised, a corresponding marketing slogan usually appears describing “how you can become totally self-sufficient” with their product. The potential severity of future crises, however, seems to dictate that no one product brings total self-sufficiency. It seems most probable in the final analysis that no set of products or facilities, no matter how complete,brings anything but temporary self-sufficiency for a lone individual.

There are a variety of terms and definitions floating around in the “self-sufficiency” arena—one of the least understood pertains to “survival and “retreat” philosophy. “Self-sufficiency” as a term is well accepted and enjoys frequent use among the entire social strata, whereas “survival” intimates “gloom and doom”. However, under more careful scrutiny, it becomes obvious that “survival” and “self-sufficiency” are nearly synonymous. In actuality, the purpose of self-sufficiency is to SURVIVE various crises where one is in competition with others for scarce resources: ie, food and fuel shortages, dwindling finances, or social unrest, etc.

There is a significant difference between the general term “survival” and its child, the “retreat” philosophy, which is an ultimate reaction at the limits of the self-sufficiency concept.

Why Self - Sufficiency?

Many subscribe to the view that most of our future economic woes and commodity shortages will be government induced through bureaucratic mismanagement and excessive regulation. So, you say, the responsibility will simply fall back on ourselves, where it rightly belongs. However, this view overlooks our prime and ever-increasing social weakness; that our society has become so specialized in its occupational endeavors, we no longer have the will or skills to revert rapidly to a generalists society with each providing his own essential skills and services. Thus, we encounter the real reason for the craze for self-sufficiency: the inner need to become confident in our ability to provide for ourselves and our family should a minor or major crisis or shortage arise. The motive to save a few heating dollars is perhaps primary with many who may purchase a wood stove, but it soon becomes obvious to most woodburners that wood heat is only a small portion of their total self-sufficiency needs. In fact, when you tally all the other additional self-sufficiency needs such as water, waste disposal, electricity, storage space, tools, and security, you suddenly realize that you have come face to face with the word “survival”, which is the word that, in essence, reflects “ultimate self-sufficiency”.

Everything Involves a Priority Choice

While the survival retreat concept gets all the headlines in the hard money newsletters, its share of actual dollars invested is insignificant. From my experience as the architect most often involved in survival housing, the majority of client energy and funds are devoted to residential upgrade and preparation within the bounds of suburban or semi-rural living. Why? Frankly because very few people have the time, money or inclination to separate themselves completely from society even though they believe that difficult economic and social problems will be forthcoming.

100% rural self-sufficiency is almost impossible to achieve on anything more than a hermit level. Even then it is either all-time consuming or inordinately expensive and probably both.

In the final analysis then, everything in the survival and self-sufficiency field is a compromise or trade off of one lesser asset for another more important to you. If you want isolation to have security, then you usually sacrifice social ties, time and gasoline in commuting, and maybe electricity, telephone, and leadership opportunities.

There are ways of overcoming these compromises—if you have enough money, additional manpower and equipment; but you may become so sophisticated that you aren’t self-sufficient any more. No two individuals or families should utilize the same self-sufficiency plans.

Here are the Essential Steps

1. Begin reading non-governmental analyses of the state of the nation. Specifically: political, economic, social, military, and moral trends. Reading recommendations include:

PERSONAL FINANCE newsletter
901 N. Washington St. suite 605
Alexandria, Va 22314

Gary North’s REMNANT REVIEW
P. O. BOX 39800
Phoenix, AZ 85069

2. Analyze the condition of your local state and community as to long term survivability in a crisis:

Most favorable criteria are:

a. low population density (50 people per sq. mile or less)
b. High level of religious, moral character.
c. Lack of highly unionized heavy industry, or welfare populous.
d. Strong local autonomy with little attachment to federal funds.
e. Diversified economy with an agricultural base.

3. Make a series of decisions based upon your national and local assessment as what problems you most likely will encounter. Note: You cannot come to a proper design of a self-sufficient or survival residence unless you have determined what shortages, crises, or threats you face. The better your research, the more accurate your predictions will be.

4. Read the Survival Home Manual and study the essentials of survival residential design to determine what your present home lacks and what is available in new or remodeled survival construction.

5. Determine, financially and security wise, whether you should remain in your present home and remodel, move and build or buy a more suitable home. Consider job, and/or commuting time. It is imperative that you do not destroy your income producing ability unless you have other means or opportunities to turn to which will survive most economic downturns. Don’t be tricked into thinking you can go “live off the land”. The capital required for machinery and non-growable necessities will require substantial monthly income.

6. Start saving and begin a monthly procurement plan for acquiring the items listed in the 10 packs for survival. Do it each month—don’t wait for enough money to accumulate for a one time purchase of everything—it may not be readily available then.

The foregoing introductory material is essential in order to appreciate the following survival design criteria. The quantity of preparedness features I will describe may not be necessary in every case, depending on the relative security of the location you choose to live in. Remember, the more self-sufficient and secure the area in which you live, the less it costs you to prepare for personal survival,,

Primary Faults of Conventional Housing

The following are the six essential liabilities of the conventional residential structure:

1. Lack of security (fire, intrusion, vandalism)
2. Poor resistance to heat, cold, wind, and sun.
3. Lack of storage facilities (food, dry goods, machinery etc).
4. Poor floor plan efficiency (costly wasted space, lack of emergencyaccommodations)
5. Single source of heat for space heating, water heating, ,@Ind cooking.
6. Single source of water and electrical power.

Design Criteria

In my actual design work, the most common concern expressed by the wife of a client is that the home not look like a fortress or a bunker. This is not only possible but preferable. There is no benefit in becoming a known target for resentment during hard times. The best survival residences are designed to look completely conventional both inside and out, so that you may stay within the bounds of society without appearing as an extremist and encouraging undue resentment.

The properly designed survival residence has within its walls and private recesses all the equipment and design technology that allows you to maintain a nearly normal lifestyle throughout a crisis. This is extremely important to the family man who must maintain his income during hard times. He cannot afford to take time off from work to heat hot water over a camp stove during an electrical outage or stand guard over his house day and night when major civil disturbances occur.

The following are some of the major design features of a survival residence:

1. Independent well water and/or water storage facilities integral with the home
2. Multi-fuel furnace (burns at least three different fuels)
3. Reserve or standby electrical power
4. Multi-fuel cooking facilities, and water heating equipment
5. Secure walls, doors, and windows with intrusion monitoring equipment
6. Superior energy-conserving structural design utilizing solar and underground design where possible
7. Secret and semi-private storage facilities which include a fallout shelter
8. Maintenance and repair facilities with appropriate tools
9. Greenhouse and other food production facilities
10. Internal communications equipment

If you are questioning the potential costliness of a full survival residence, consider this: it is not intended to discourage you from acting due to lack of sufficient funds, but rather to show you the importance of ordering your financial priorities In order to start preparing in the most critical areas first. In all cases, never place all of your available funds into one, or even two areas at the exclusion of all others.

If, in the final analysis, you find that not all of your self-sufficiency preparations were utilized, you will have at least spent many a restful night with the assurance that you have done everything within your ability to prepare you and your family for realistic potential difficulties.

Both those who wish to relocate permanently and those who may simply desire to construct a vacation retreat cabin elsewhere will need some guidance as to the best areas for security: We have made available to our clients the most comprehensive security map covering the entire United States, both as to the most dangerous areas and the most secure areas. It represents many years of research and analysis and may be ordered direct from the architectural and planning division using the order form at the end of this booklet.

Food Pack

200 lbs/person, hard winter wheat 50 lbs/person,rice 50 lbs/person, beans 10 lbs/person, honey 25 lbs/person, powdered milk(non-instant type) 6-months supply normal canned goods and bottled fruit

1-large bottle 1000mg VITAMIN C 1-large bottle multiple vitamin 2-clove garlic (nature’s anti-biotic) (keep refrigerated)

4-#10 can/person dehydrated fruits and vegetables (use for variety-not for bulk) Salt, pepper, spices Oil (keep refrigerated)

Water Pack

* 1- portable water washer filtering kit (from american water purification co. 1990 @olivera rd. Concord, ca 94520)
* 1/person water straw individual filter straw (from american water@purif.)
* 1-pack scientific filter paper (cone) (12v diameter papers)
* 1/person 10 gallon glass distilled water bottle. (date and seal with stopper and tape. Wrap on bottom and sides with dense foam carpet pad to protect against earthquake or jarring.
* 1-bottle halazone tabs. Or regular chlorine bleach for water purification.

Power Pack

* 1-mobile, self-contained 3kw 120/220v generator (diesel or gasoline/gas) with one month fuel supply in portable tanks
* 1-12 volt auto battery with carry strap trickle charger, and jumper cables and 12v light attachment
* 1-100 ft. 4-plug heavy duty extension cord with built in light bulb (rough duty rated) in a “cage”
* 2-hand-operated flashlights (item #605-771w695 from us general catalog 100 general place, @jerico n.y. 11753)
* 2-nicad flashlights (item # 852-5350w us general catalog)
* 1-long range police-type flashlight with extra bulbs
* Supply of nicad batteries with charger:
* 8-D cell
* 4-D cell
* 16-AA cell
* 2-9v transistor type

Med Pack

* Blood pressure gauge (electronic)
* Stethoscope
* Bandage scissors
* Long tweezers
* 2-locking forceps (1-curved point)
* Disposable scalpels
* Thermometer (oral and rectal)
* Inflatable splints
* Bandages elastic, self adhesive band-aids large compress type with straps.
* Sutures (dissolvable)
* Cotton backed adhesive tape
* Gauze
* Aloe vera burn ointment
* Anti-biotic ointment
* Aspirin
* Rubbing alcohol
* Ipecac syrup (to induce vomiting)
* Container of sterile water (1 qt)
* Clean absorbent cotton rags
* Soap (liquid)
* Long stemmed cotton swabs

Transportation Pack

* 1/person: 10 speed bicycle with heavy. Duty tires, rack and carriers, lights
* 1 emergency vehicle (recommend vw vanagan with trailer hitch, locking gas cap, and camper options. Install bike racks front and rear, and extra 30 gallon gas tank. Carry oil cans two flashlights emergency tool kit: extra fan belts, metric wrenches and sockets, oil filter, air filter fuel filter, spark plugs, points, condenser, fuses, light bulbs, head light, tire pump, aerosol tire repair sealer, jumper cables, tow cable w/hooks, inflatable raft (4 man) with paddles.
* 1-250cc motorcycle equipped for road and off road use. Add equipment and extra fuel tank carriers.

Travel Pack

(These items should be packed in portable “duffle bags” ready to go)

* 1-qt water per person
* 2-”energy bars” per person
* Dehydrated food pack for one week dried fruit, vegetables, meat flour, oil, salt, pepper, spices vitamins, honey,peanut butter crackers, protein powder, powder milk
* Collapsible 5 ga. Water containers
* “Water washer” filter
* Lightweight cook kit large pot, dishes, spoons, forks knives, cups, non-stick skillet spatula, can opener, large spoon
* Towels
* 2-water proof nylon tarps
* Change of clothes for each person
* Coats,
* 1-thermal blanket
* 1-sleeping bag / person
* Matches, fire starter
* Compass, maps of areas of intended use
* 2-rechargeable flashlights
* 12v trouble light w/@cig. lighter plug
* First aid kit
* Toilet paper,
* Soap
* 1-pocket knife
* 1-fishing kit
* 1-large bowie knife (western cutlery) (perfectly weighted to serve as both fire knife and hatchet etc)
* 1-small portable mt. Climber’s stove
* 1-back pack with frame
* Paper, pencil
* Signaling mirror
* 1-manual flashlight
* Whistle , portable cable saw
* Small bottle of bleach, insect repellent.
* Magnifying glass
* 100 ft. 1/2 dia. Goldline rope,
* 2 pulleys
* 50 ft. Nylon “shroudline” cord
* .22 caliber pistol w/ 500 rds. Ammo.

Communications Pack

* Multi-band receiver/scanner
* 1-citizens band transceiver
* 2- 3 channel portable transceivers rechargeable batteries,p ortable power pack, antennas
* 1-small portable television (battery operated)

Equipment Pack

* 1-grind all grinder(for wheat, corn beans, peas, nuts etc.) Ram Products 765 S. University Ave. Provo, UT. 84601 1-grain country bread mixer. Food Science Corp. 95 N. 200 E American Fork, UT 84003
* 1- Victorio strainer (Vitantonio Corp Willoughby, Ohio 44090)
* 1-hand operated can opener
* 1-steam canner with canning bottles w/lids and rings for two seasons cutlery: high quality knives:
o Peeler/filet knife
o Pairing knife (short small)
o Long slicing knife.
* 1-portable electric icebox 12v. Koolatron industries limited, 56 Harvester Ave. Batavia , NY 14020
* Kerosene lamp/heater by aladdin
* Two burner kerosene or propane stove with one month fuel supply
* Hand operated clothes wringer
* Treadle sewing machine or treadle attachment for your electric machine
* Portable electric hot plate
* Fire extinguisher (portable)

Defense Pack

* .22 cal.pistol (9-shot revolver or 15 shot auto) w/ 1000 rds. ammo.
* .22 cal. rifle w/1000 rds. ammo.
* 45 cal. auto pistol w/ 100 rds. ammo.
* .223 rifle (mini14 by ruger) w/ 500 rds. ammo.
* 2- canisters of aerosol mace
* 1-pocket knife
* 1- bowie knife

Tool Pack

* 1- 250 amp portable arc welder
* Pelletized oxy-acetylene torch
* Propane torch w/spark lighter
* Solder/flux (electrical and non)
* Allen wrench set
* Nut driver set
* Tap & die set (national course,fine)
* Socket set & ratchet handle, @extens.
* Channel lock pliers
* 2-adjustable “crescent” wrenches
* Needle nose pliers with wire cut.
* Vise grip pliers with narrow jaw
* Metal chisel
* Wood chisel set
* Metal punch/drift
* Tin snips
* Claw hammer
* Small, large screwdrivers
* Small, large phillips screwdrivers
* Hand operated twist drill
* Auger expansion bit with brace
* Hack saw
* Bow saw
* Handsaw (10 pt teeth)
* Large pry bar/wrecking bar
* Ax
* Hatchet
* Small block and tackle or ‘come-a-long” hand operated winch.
* Glue assorted
* Nails, nuts, bolts, screws
* Electric multi meter,
* 110 circuit test light

Barter

These items generally meet all of the following criteria for Barter

1. High consumer demand
2. Not easily home manufactured
3. Durable in storage
4. Divisible in small quantities
5. Authenticity easily recognizable

* Liquid detergent,
* Laundry detergent
* Rubbing alcohol
* Bleach
* Toothbrushes
* Razor blades
* Toilet paper
* Aluminum foil
* Writing paper, typing paper,
* Pens,
* Pencils, erasers
* Shoelaces, string, cord, rope
* Fishing line
* Insect repellent
* Water repellent
* Paint, varnish
* Matches
* Watches
* Tape
* Light bulbs
* Needles, thread, zippers, buttons
* Aspirin, vitamins, other drugs
* Seeds, grain, sugar,
* Coffee, liquor, cigarettes
* Anti-biotics, burn ointments
* Safety pins
* Manual can opener
* Knives
* Canning jars, lids, rings
* Shoes, boots, socks, nylon stockings
* Underwear,
* Winter clothes
* Coats
* Blankets
* Hand guns, rifles,ammunition
* Fuels (all types)
* Quarts of multi-vis motor oil
* Anti-freeze
* Wire
* Glues
* Bolts, screws, nails

http://www.survival-center.com/dl-list/dl21-fft.htm

Food For Thought
by Chris Janowsky

Whether it be a natural disaster or one that’s manmade, being prepared can mean the difference between life or death. Many of you readers know me as a writer and a wilderness survival instructor. This is World Survival Institute’s 25th Anniversary year of teaching people the skills and knowledge they need to stay alive in most any emergency. We constantly emphasize to our students the value of being prepared.

Putting food up for the future is a very important aspect of being prepared and is usually one of the first things most of us think about. There are a number of good companies out there that sell M.R.E.’s, freeze-dried, or dehydrated food for backpackers and for storage. You may well choose to have some of their products as part of your overall emergency preparedness inventory. However, it is just as important that you know how to preserve food yourself, especially meat.

Meat is a significant part of most people’s diet. From it, our bodies receive vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, and precious muscle-regenerating protein. In most wilderness survival situations, wild game and fish are very easy to procure if you know how. This makes meat and fish a natural way to go.

Whether you are in the wilderness or in the city, putting up meat is a wise idea. However, there are certain considerations that we have to think about when dealing with meat or fish. Depending upon the ambient temperature, meat can spoil very quickly. Meat by its nature is very heavy and if it has to be transported in the future, this should be of great concern, Especially if you have to pack it on your back.

There are many ways to overcome these problems either in the field or at home. First of all we have to know why meat spoils and what to do about it. We will address this issue soon but for now let’s take a good look at the logistics and solution of the meat/weight problem.

Your first concern is your plan. What I’m talking about here is a complete plan. Nobody knows what is going to happen tomorrow but we should plan for the most likely emergencies. Your plan could make the difference between life or death for you and your family.

As mentioned above, many people are stocking up on M.R.E.’s, or cases of freeze-dried/dehydrated meals. These, plus water and whatever you normally keep in your kitchen cupboards should be the first part of your plan. Having extra food and water at home during and after a disaster means you don’t have to worry about battling the mob down at the supermarket-if it is open. Let’s call this plan “A.” But you and I both know that whenever you have a single good plan some SOB will probably mess it up. This is why you need plan “B.”

Depending on the circumstances your plan “B” may have to be initiated. This plan would be implemented if you chose or were forced to move from your dwelling. Many people believe they will be able to use their trucks and cars to transport all their stuff to a safe haven. But what if the roads are closed? What if a natural disaster has destroyed bridges and covered highways with debris? I believe that it is a good idea to have your vehicles set up but don’t depend on it. You may end up only being able to take what you can carry on your back, and folks, that ain’t much. Remember that flies can easily get into the ole ointment.

The next plan is plan “C.” This plan should be a part of all the other plans. And that is having the KNOWLEDGE and SKILLS to make these plans work, maybe even to having a plan “D” in reserve. This plan I don’t even want to think about but I-and you-must. You may have to take off with what is only on your person, no bags, no backpacks. Knowledge at this time is worth far more than gold. You’ll have to find your food as you go and be able to transport it (with reduced weight) for tomorrow.

When you are in a wilderness survival situation and on the move, you must procure food wherever and whenever you find it. Let’s say you come across a nice lake abundant with fish. Naturally you are going to take some fish for dinner, but what about tomorrow and the next week? If you are on the move, you may not find another good food source for days. If the fishing is good, you’ll want to catch as many as you can NOW. Let’s say you take in 44 nice fish averaging 1 pound each. You cook and eat 4 fish during that day. There are still 40 fish left, which equals 40 pounds. This is far too much weight to transport on your back, and if freezing conditions do not exist, they will spoil rapidly.

You are going to have to dehydrate (dry) and smoke the fish. When you are done your 40 pounds of fish will weigh only 6-8 pounds. This you can easily carry and it’s a 10 day supply of food for one person. Also, any part of the dry smoked fish you would normally discard like skin and bones will become bait for small animals.

Once you trap or snare a small animal, you will do the same with them as you did with the fish, cook and eat what you can and dry the rest. You can see at this point that you are not only eating well but you have also created variety. This couldn’t happen without the drying process. Even animals like squirrels deliberately gather and spread out food to dry, like mushrooms. When putting up meat for the future at home you will be cooking, drying, and packaging it. You may want to smoke some for the taste it gives the meat. Most important will be the different ways you will be packaging the meat for your back up plans.

Canning

The meat you stock in your residence is to stay there. You can cook, dry and smoke the meat if you like. You can simply can the meat in canning jars. The weight of the jars is not important for this plan. If canned properly, meat will keep for many years. I’ve eaten meat that I’ve canned ten years before.

The weakest part of this system is the lids. All lids are not equal! Over the years I’ve done a lot of canning. When I use my fish wheel to take in sockeye salmon, it’s not uncommon to catch several hundred 5 to 8 pound fish in a night. And that represents a lot of jars and lids.

Once the jars are filled, they are placed in a pressure canner and cooked at the proper heat, pressure, and length of time. Afterward, the pressure is relieved from the cooker and the jars are left to cool slowly. As they cool, the center of the lids will be sucked down toward the contents of the jar. At this point the screw rings that held the lids in place can be removed. The jars of meat are ready for storage.

Any lids that are not sucked down warn you that there is no vacuum in that jar and you DO NOT have a seal. The contents in these jars will spoil. This situation is called a “failure.” I’ve found over the years that the best lids with the least amount of failures are Ball lids. If you have a failure it’s usually because of a inferior brand of lid, a defective mouth on the jar, or you didn’t clean the rim of the jar well enough after adding the contents. Stick with Ball lids and you will be in good shape.

When you pull a jar from the shelf later, always check the lid. The center of the lid should still be sucked down very solidly. Tap it with your finger: it should sound solid and not move. If the lid sounds hollow and moves up and down, you have a failure. DO NOT eat the contents.

Another little trick is if your jars are stored in your freezer, or are stored where they are subject to being frozen in the winter, always leave at least 1 inch of head space at the top of the jar. If you do this, the jars will not break when frozen. I’ve had jars that were packed in this fashion that experienced ambient temperatures of 70 degrees below zero and none broke.

When I can meat it may be in chunks or in other forms. My store house does have meat in chunks but it also has many jars of my favorite homemade chili, Moose stew, and sausages in sauce. This way you can open a jar and your meal is already prepared for you. All you have to do is heat it up.

This whole operation only requires reusable mason jars, lids, screw rings, a good pressure cooker, and a 1,200 pound moose. The type of pressure cooker you purchase is important. I’ve used many and feel the ones made by American Canner are without a doubt superior in every way except weight. They are heavy but they are built to last.

They also have many safety features that the others don’t have. The best thing is that they use no rubber O-ring. It’s a metal-to-metal seal that will never wear out. Let’s say you are set up at your wilderness home and it’s two years from now. The rubber seal goes bad on your cheaper cooker. Where are you going to buy a new O-ring? The scary part is right then you’ll need this cooker to put up more food, or you and your family could be in dire straits. It’s something to think about now!

The next way to go is to preserve the same food in metal cans like those you see in the supermarket. It’s easy to do and you have the advantage of lighter weight and no glass to break. This is a good way to go if you have vehicle transport. You will need cans, lids, a pressure cooker and a mechanical can canner. I put up a lot of food this way each year. Also you can seal up most anything from ammunition to medical supplies (You won’t be using the pressure cooker for these items, especially the ammo!).

The difference between canning in jars and in cans is the procedure. With jars you add heat and pressure and then the sealing happens. With cans you mechanically make the seal then add heat and pressure. The lids on the cans will suck down, just like the canning jars.

Your next step is to put up the light weight stuff. This is the food that you can carry on your back. Also, if you have a storage problem as far as space goes, cooked dried meat is the way to go. Not only does the meat lose weight, but there is a considerable reduction in its size. These are all plus factors for you.

One way that I do this is to take some very lean meat; game meat like deer is the best. You can use beef, but make sure that it’s lean. Usually the more inexpensive cuts are the leanest. That’s good news! Take the meat and trim off any fat you can find. Put the meat in a pan on the cooker rack in a pressure cooker. Add about 1 inch of water to the cooker, put the top on, and you are ready to go.

You’ll want to cook the meat until well done. Once you’ve gotten the water boiling and the steam gauge has risen to the right amount of pressure, you will be cooking 12 to 15 minutes for each pound of meat. You should keep the pressure at 15 p.s.i. during the entire cooking time. When the cooking process is over, the meat, no matter how tough it was, should easily flake into small slivers with the use of a fork. Next spread these flaked pieces of meat out on a cookie sheet or sheets. All you have to do now is to dry it completely. This can be done in many ovens at very low temperature with the door cracked open for ventilation and to get rid of moisture. This can also be done in a food dryer or a small smoker oven (The Sausage Maker company in Buffalo, NY makes several different size smokers, all of them excellent.).

As soon as the meat is completely dry, take it out and put it in containers that exclude all moisture. Vacuum sealers work very well for this purpose, and can be applied to canning jars and plastic resealable bags like M.R.E. packages. You can dry vegetables and add your favorite spices, mix it all together and then package it. When you need it, just add hot water and you have a meal ready to eat. You will want to cook the veggies before you dry them or they may be too tough for your liking. Pre-cooked dried rice or beans are a good addition also. Remember: cook it, dry it, keep it dry and it will last.

When putting up any meat for long-term storage, start with fresh meat, keep it cold, and process it as soon as possible. Bacteria like the C. Botulinum need a nice moist environment that lacks oxygen in order to grow. When we are canning meat we are creating this very environment. Luckily, the bacterium needs one more thing in order to survive, and that is the proper temperature. So when we can, we do it in a pressure cooker at 15 lbs. p.s.i. This creates a temperature of 250 degrees F., much too hot for the bacterium to live. This procedure is similar to sterilizing medical instruments in an autoclave.

The C. Botulinum bacterium cannot survive jerky making either, because in making jerky you take away the moisture and fully expose the meat to the air. As an added precaution, if you wish, you can also add a cure such as Prague Powder #1 to the marinade. This cure destroys the bacterium.

Jerky

Let’s make some jerky! Jerky is easy to make and it’s delicious. It’s something you may want to always keep on hand. Because of it’s nature, it’s light in weight and easy to transport. It’s a nutritious snack and good emergency food.

Start out with some nice lean meat. Beef works well but, again, wild game is by far the best. Next, slice the meat in strips 1/4 of an inch thick by 3/4 to 1 inch wide. I make these about 4 inches long. Make sure any fat or gristle is trimmed off. This is the secret to good jerky with a long shelf life. Fat can cause the meat to become rancid.

The meat is then mixed in a marinade of your choice. I will give you the recipe that I use. I’m sure that you will like it, but remember that it can be easily altered to your taste. Let the meat soak for no more than 24 hours in the refrigerator. Stir it around several times while it’s soaking.

Next day, blot the excess liquid off the meat and place on drying racks. The meat can be dried in many different ways so long as you can hold the temperature somewhere between 95 and 115 degrees F. Make sure there is good air circulation so moisture can escape. Depending on what type of drying system you use, the jerky will be ready in 8-10 hrs.

Many kitchen ovens will do a good job drying jerky if the heat can be kept low enough and the door is left cracked open to allow the moisture to vent. A food dehydrator or a small smoker also can be used. You’ll know when the jerky is ready. It will be dry around the edges and rubbery in the center. It will smell wonderful and have taken on a pretty reddish color. At this point you’ll probably be getting “ Old Betsy “ out to guard your precious prize, `cause if there’s other people around, it’ll disappear as fast as you can make it. And nobody’ll fess up!

At our survival school, the students make jerky in several different ways, and they also add smoke to it. If you like the smoke flavor, liquid smoke can be added to the marinate. There is a liquid smoke available that is very concentrated and all natural smoke. Or, if you use the small smoker, you can smoke the meat while you are drying it.

Jerky that is properly made will have a moisture loss of 70-80%. You should store the jerky in glass jars, like mason jars with lids. These lids should have several holes punched or drilled in them to promote good air circulation and prevent mold. If all the guidelines are followed and it is kept in a dry environment, your jerky will last for months. Here are two good recipes for the marinade. This will do 5-6 pounds of meat, reducing it in 8-10 hours to delicious jerky weighing only 1-1/2 pounds.

Mild

* 1 tbs. salt
* 1 tsp. Prague Powder No. 1
* 2 tsp. garlic powder
* 2 tsp. ground black pepper
* 2 tsp. onion powder
* 1/2 cup soy sauce
* 2/3 cup Worcestershire sauce
* 4 cups water

Hot

* 1 tbs salt
* 1 tsp. Prague Powder No. 1
* 2 tbs. ginger
* 2 tbs. garlic powder
* 1/8 cup (1-1/2 tbs.) ground red pepper
* 1/4 cup sage
* 1/4 cup onion powder
* 1/4 cup chili powder
* 1/4 cup black pepper
* 1 cup soy sauce
* 4 cups water

As you start out, I would suggest you get some good books on food preservation. One I particularly recommend is called, “Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing,” by Rytek Kutas. It’s the best reference book on the subject I have ever seen. It is available from the Sausage Maker Company listed below, and I know it will be a welcome addition to your survival library. Whether you decide to buy the proper provisions or put them up yourself, you should at least learn how to do it. These are important skills you may need in the future, and learning them can be a lot of fun for you and your family right now. Remember, knowledge and skills are your best insurance for an unpredictable future.

Chris Janowsky is the founder of the highly respected World Survival Institute, which offers courses in outdoor survival and self-reliance. These folks also carry a full series of video tapes which makes it possible to learn many of these skills from home. For further information you can write the author at P.O. Box 394, Tok, AK. 99780

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http://www.survival-center.com/dl-list/dl1-toc.htm

http://kalynskitchen.blogspot.com/2008/11/spicy-crockpot-sweet-potatoes-recipe.html

Spicy Crockpot Sweet Potatoes Recipe

Crockpot Sweet PotatoesLots of people like sweet potatoes for Thanksgiving dinner, and making them in the crockpot can help with oven congestion on the big day. These spicy crockpot sweet potatoes have the same seasoning as Spicy Sweet Potato Fries, the recipe that turned me into a sweet potato fan last year. I’m adding this recipe to the collection of Low-Glycemic Holiday Recipes for a South Beach Diet Friendly Thanksgiving, so this is a sweet potato recipe that anyone can enjoy, even if they’re dieting or restricting sugar for health reasons. I suggest doubling or tripling the spice mixture, because you’ll want to be making this recipe or Spicy Sweet Potato Fries over and over once you’ve tried them.

Start by peeling 3 pounds of orange sweet potatoes and cutting them into pieces about 1 inch square. By the way, these are not yams, even though that’s probably what your grocery store is calling them! And if you don’t believe me, Food Blogga has thoroughly researched the question of Sweet Potatoes Vs. Yams. (I actually got into an argument with a produce guy about this once, and I really could have used Susan to back me up on it.)

Put sweet potatoes into a Ziploc bag and toss with 2 T olive oil and 2 tsp. seasoning mix. (I know you’re going to be tempted to use more than 2 tsp. of the seasoning mix, but trust me on this. I tried it two different ways and less is definitely more.)

Put sweet potatoes into a crockpot that’s been sprayed with non-stick spray and cook about 3 hours on high. That’s it! (By the way, this is a mini-crockpot where I was making a test batch, which is why the sweet potato pieces look rather large in this photo.)

Spicy Crockpot Sweet Potatoes
(Makes about 6 servings, Recipe created by Kalyn using this spice mix for sweet potatoes from Epicurious.com.)

3 lb. orange-fleshed sweet potatoes (3 large or 4 medium sweet potatoes, often called yams in U.S. stores)
2 T olive oil
non-stick spray for crockpot
2 tsp. sweet potato spice mix (see below)
fresh ground black pepper to taste
sea salt to taste (I used a sea salt grinder)

Sweet Potato Spice Mix (grind herbs together with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, then mix in salt)
2 T ground coriander
1 T ground fennel
1 T dried oregano
1 T Aleppo Pepper (or use a smaller amount of cayenne pepper)
2 T kosher salt

Peel sweet potatoes and cut into pieces about 1 inch square. Put sweet potatoes into plastic Ziploc bag, add 2 T olive oil and 2 tsp. spice mix, seal bag and squeeze potatoes around until they’re all coated with oil and spice mix is well-distributed.

Spray inside of Crockpot slow cooker with non-stick spray or olive oil. (I used a 3.5 quart crock pot for this recipe.) Put sweet potatoes in crockpot and cook on high, stirring a couple of times so they don’t stick or get too browned on the bottom.

Sweet potatoes are done when they’re completely softened and fragrant, about 3 hours. Mash slightly if desired, and season to taste with fresh ground black pepper and sea salt. Serve hot.

Make Ahead Tips: Sweet potatoes can be cut and mixed with olive oil and seasoning earlier in the day. Cooked sweet potatoes could be kept in the crockpot on low or warm for a few hours if needed.

South Beach Suggestions:
Sweet potatoes like this would be a great option for phase 2 or 3 of the South Beach Diet or other low-glycemic eating plans.

More Holiday-Worthy Recipes for Sweet Potatoes:
(Recipes from other blogs may not always be South Beach Diet friendly, check ingredients.)
Spicy Sweet Potato Fries
Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Red Onion, Rosemary, and Parmesan
Olive Oil, Carmelized Onion, and Sage Mashed Sweet Potatoes from Food Blogga
Rosemary and Garlic Roasted Sweet Potatoes from Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska
(Find more Sweet Potato Recipes using Food Blog Search.)

Thanks for the bump, it is good to see you have returned to read.

Still posting, daily, almost.

Smiling at you.

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http://bloggingherbman.typepad.com/tips/2008/09/lavender-home-remedies.html

Lavender Home Remedies

In the green healers medicine chest, lavender is the equivalent of the soothing hand on a fevered brow. An infusion of leaves and/or flowers can relieve sleeplessness, anxiety, irritability, headaches and migraine. It also eases indigestion and colic, reduces wind and bloating, and helps clear bad breath.

An added benefit for students and stressed executives is that lavender clears the mind.

Being a relaxing nervine, it calms a person who is overexcited or it lifts a person who is tired. A lavender infusion combines well with rosemary for mild depression (a 50/50 combination) and the same combination is often used for nervous and stress related headaches.

For medicinal purposes Lavandula angustifolia is preferred (herbologists won’t use the others), although the others can be used as well by the gardener. Flowers are gathered just before opening (between early summer and early fall) and dried gently.

To make a lavender infusion to take internally, pour 1 cup of boiling water over 1 teaspoon of dried herb (or tablespoon fresh herb) and infuse in a covered container for 10 minutes. Strain. This can be drunk up to three times a day.

Lavender essential oil should not be taken internally. It is however a good external remedy and can be rubbed on the temples to relieve a tension headache or added to your bath to relieve the stresses of the day.

http://bloggingherbman.typepad.com/tips/2008/09/lavender-in-the-home.html

5 Ways With Lavender in the Home

Lavender is probably the most feminine of herbs. No other herb is quite so prized for its fragrance and beauty, or more evocative of romance.

Its ‘feminine touch’ has been experienced down the centuries, to freshen the air in houses or to perfume the bath or whenever a feminine touch was needed. Here’s a few ideas to try.

Drowsy Potpourri
Fill a bowl by your bedside with rose petal potpourri and dried lavender flowers. Add a drop or two of lavender essential oil. Finger the bowl before drifting to sleep.

Sleepy Sachets
Put lavender flowers and a few drops of essential oil in sachets to slip beneath pillows for a soothing waft if you wake or turn in the night.

Lavender Moth Bags
Mix equal parts dried lavender flowers, dried lavender leaves, dried mint, dried rosemary and dried southernwood, santolina or marjoram.

To make moth bags cut out pieces of thin cotton cloth the required size. Fill with herbs and stitch up. Lay the bags amongst linen and blankets, or put them between your clothes.

Lavender Room Spray
Add 5 drops lavender essential oil to 50 ml distilled water in an atomizer. You will need to shake the atomizer vigorously before each use. Do not make large quantities as the keeping time is relatively short.

Relaxing Lavender Bath
Make a strong infusion by adding a handful finely chopped lavender leaves and flowers to a cup of boiling water. Let it steep 10 minutes, strain and add to your bath.

http://bloggingherbman.typepad.com/tips/2008/09/growing-lavender.html

Grow Your Own Lavender

With lavender we have become spoilt for choice and new hybrid varieties are introduced every year. But the most popular are still Lavandula angustifolia (English lavender), Lavandula dentata (French lavender) and Lavandula stoechas (Spanish lavender). It’s important to know the difference if you want to use them effectively. (Ask your local garden center to help you select varieties that grows well in your area.)

Lavandula angustifolia (English lavender) grows the highest, reaching up to 1 m and is best used for tall hedges. It is the least prolific flowerer (it is often called blind lavender), which makes it best for hedges and topiaries as it can be clipped. It is also the preferred lavender for home remedies.

Lavandula dentata, available with either grey or green foliage, grows to a medium height and is a prolific flowerer. This is the preferred lavender of cooks and cottage crafters.

Lavandula stoechas is the most compact grower and is the first to flower with attractive dark mauve flowers on short stalks. If you are simply looking for a lavender to grow as a stunning flowering shrub, then this is the lavender for you.

Lavenders grow naturally in exposed, dry and hot rocky places. They are water wise, preferring full sun, and well-drained soil that doesn’t have to be too rich. They do not do well in warm, wet and humid conditions, which is why lavenders can sometimes be tricky to grow in summer rainfall areas.

Lavender is a low maintenance plant but in a formal garden it should be kept tidy by cutting off the dead flowers and lightly pruning back the stems by about 2-3cm. It is also a good idea to prune hedges and straggly plants in autumn and spring. The stem cuttings can be rooted to provide new plants.

The best way to landscape with lavender is to plant them en-masse. There’s little to beat a lavender lined pathway or fragrant, clipped hedge. For hedging plant about 30cm apart. For contrasting foliage and colours plant a row of low growing rosemary in front of a row of tall growing English lavender.

Another way is to lushly group various lavenders in squares for a simple but splendid effect.

For extra fragrance grow lavender near scented geraniums as they enhance each other’s perfume.

http://bloggingherbman.typepad.com/tips/bath_and_body/

Romantic Dreams Bath Salts

Just How Did “Cleo” Snag Marc Anthony?

I really don’t have the answer to that question but I’m wiling to bet my boots she used every beauty trick in her papyrus scroll!

Ever since Eve took that first bite of the apple, the human race has been obsessed with beauty.

Ancient Egyptian women and men used various natural pigments to color their bodies in an attempt to appear more favorably to the “gods.” Headdresses and jewelry have adorned peoples throughout history with the expectation that these items might improve their appearance.

Roman, Grecian, Arabic and Hindi women used henna to color their hair and tattoo their bodies. The historical artwork of Botticelli depicts women as rounded as cherubs.

Interestingly, current trends toward body piercing and tattooing are nothing new but merely a resurgence of historical practices.

The next time you think that our society is more focused on beauty than any other in history, just remember, we come by it naturally. . . from our ancestors!

It is a fact. There is a multi-billion rand industry out there all hoping to grab their fair share of your cosmetic budget. The truth is you don’t have to spend mega bucks to look and feel good.

Here is a popular romantic bath salts recipe that has stood the test of time. Both men and women enjoy its woody scent and soothing, relaxing powers. Making it perfect for sharing.

Enjoy it after a long day. It will make you both feel more comfortable, content and relaxed.

Romantic Dreams Bath Salts

1 cup sea salt
1 cup Epsom salts
2 tbsp baking soda
5 drops rosewood essential oil
2 drops cedarwood essential oil
2 drops chamomile essential oil

1. Mix the salts and baking soda in a bowl.
2. Mix oils in a small cup. Then mix with a few tablespoons of the salt mixture.
3. Mix with the remainder of the salts.
4. Place in a nice jar with a tight fitting lid.
5. If you want to colour the salt, use yellow and red to make a light brown to accent the woody scent.
6. Add 2 - 3 tablespoons to your bath.

Herbal Body Baths

Herbbath Therapeutic herbal body baths are beneficial to almost any condition you can think of.

They are commonly used as home remedies in the treatment of conditions such as : arthritis, colds, colic, constipation, gall-stones, gout, neuralgia, rheumatism, sciatica, stress, tension. etc.

You can add any of your favourite herbs to your herbal bath or you can make up a formula that will be of benefit to whatever condition you want to alleviate. Use the standard recipe below as a guideline for your own creations and let me know of your trials and tribulations.

Aromatherapists make extensive use of full body baths, and theirs is to a certain extent a more standardized bath than a herbal bath, as most quality aromatherapy oils are of a known strength. However, this in not to say that a full body bath with aromatherapy oils is superior to a herbal bath.

Standard Herbal Body Bath Recipe.
You can either prepare an infusion (or decoction) which you add to the bath water, or you can place a handful of the herb in a muslin bag (or old stocking) which is suspended from the hot water tap so that the water flows through it.

For a stronger effect I often use a combination of these methods. I tie the herbs into the bag and first make the infusion or decoction. (Sometimes I simmer the herbs for 10 to 20 minutes in a closed container) Then I add the resulting infusion or decoction to the water and tie the bag to the hot water tap.

When making an infusion or decoction use two cups of water and up to half a cup of the herb or formula. If you are using fresh herbs use more. Exact quantities are not that critical as the infusion will be diluted in the bath water. Apply common sense.

There are more herbal bath ideas at http://www.masterherbremedies.com/herbbaths.html

Herb Gifts - Herbal Bath Salts

Herbalbathsalts To make bath salts you will need measuring cups, a large bowl in which to mix your ingredients, a large spoon, a mortar and pestle to ground your herbs - you can also use an electric blender - and containers for the bath salts.

The ingredient list is as simple as the tool list. You will need table salt, sea salt or Epsom salt, dye, which can be ordinary food colouring (Moir’s is a well know South African brand), fragrance to set the ‘mood’ for your bath salt, and finely ground dried herbs.

You can use special soap fragrances, aromatherapy oils, or herbs to create your ‘mood’. Soap fragrances add nothing but fragrance, but aromatherapy oils and herbs add a desirable health dimension as well.

Most of the ingredients can be found in your local supermarket. Special soap fragrances and soap dyes can be purchased from soap craft stores and craft supply stores.

Aromatherapy oils can be purchased from health shops. Ask your health shop for guidelines in using aromatherapy oils.

Get all the ingredients together. The packaging (bottle, sachet or packet) will determine how much salt you need. Fill your packaging container with the desired amount. Pour from the packaging container into your mixing bowl.

In a smaller bowl take ¼ - ½ cup salt mixture. Stir in your fragrance, starting with a few drops and adding gradually until you reach the desired strength of scent. Make sure that the salt is mixed well with the fragrance.

Next stir in your dye. Add it gradually, like the fragrance, until you get the colour you desire. Be sure to stir really well. You want to ensure that the colour is evenly spread through the salt crystals. Add back to the rest of the salt mixture and mix well. Poor or scoop into your packaging container, seal, label and decorate.

The packaging should be something that can be sealed. This keeps the salt fresh and fragrant. We prefer to use little cellophane bags and twist tags, raffia or ribbon. They are simpler and easier for the person making the salt and the person using the salt. They are also a lot cheaper than glass jars.

If you want a more sophisticated and elegant look, a glass jar is your best bet. As long as it has a lid. You can tie raffia, ribbon or yarn around the jar to give it some decoration. If you are really creative you can purchase glass paint form a craft store and paint decorations on the jar.

Do not give bath salts to people with high blood pressure or any heart condition nor to elderly or frail people, or those that can hardly move their joints without excruciating pain.

Have fun sharing the gift of herbs with your loved ones this Christmas.

A Nourishing Bath Recipe

One of the most effective and pleasant methods for treating our minds, bodies and souls is an aromatic bath. The combination of water, warmth and herbal essences has several beneficial effects which I discuss in more detail in one of the free lessons on MasterHerbRemedies.com.

Here’s a nourishing recipe for mature skin. It’s made with essential oils, but you can easily make it with a strong lavender infusion as well.

Try it and see the difference it makes to your skin, and experience how it relaxes you.

Mix the following and add to your bath: 4 drops each neroli and lavender oil. 2 tablespoons organic honey. 2 tablespoons avocado oil.

Please note that the presence of soap diminishes the effect of essential oils. Preventing them from thoroughly penetrating and stimulating your skin.

Aromatic Detox Bath Recipe

We like to use this bath recipe whenever we detox. When ‘over stressed’ we sometimes decrease the rosemary and increase the lavender. Feel free to play around with the quantities till you find the formula that suits your body best.

Add 2 drops each geranium,juniper, lavender and rosemary essential oil to 15ml quality carrier oil (such as avocado or jojoba) and add to bath water.

Soak in bath for at least 20 minutes. De-stress and detox.

http://www.masterherbremedies.com/herbbaths.html

How to Take a
Herbal Therapeutic Body Bath

Full body baths are the most beneficial baths that can be taken and are, as we all know, very pleasant. They have been used for centuries as specific therapeutic aids in the treatment of disorders and for their beautifying effect.

To obtain the most from a therapeutic herbal body bath apply the following guidelines:

* Never take a full body bath within two hours after meals. The best time for a hydrotherapy treatment is about three hours after breakfast, which is a luxury most of us can’t afford. The best time for most of us is just before retiring in the evening.

* Water temperature is important. Never start with an extreme. The ideal temperature is one that is agreeable to you, unless giving some particular treatment for effects. Rather increase or decrease the water temperature gradually as needed.

* Cold baths should be brief and should be avoided during menstruation.

* Room temperature is also important and there should be good ventilation - but no drafts. As a precaution against taking a cold, especially in winter, always decrease the temperature of the bath before you get out.

* Atmosphere is also important if you are taking a long, warm, relaxing bath to wash away the day’s stress and tension. Take appropriate measures such as soft music, candle light, etc.

* Rest after a therapeutic herbal body bath is very important as this will add to its beneficial results. Try to lie down for at least an hour, preferably longer, immediately after your bath and keep yourself covered.

* Try to take a therapeutic bath every three to four days.

herbal body bathTherapeutic herbal body baths are beneficial to almost any condition you can think of. They are commonly used (prescribed) as home remedies in the treatment of the following conditions: arthritis, colds, colic, constipation, gall-stones, gout, neuralgia, rheumatism, sciatica, stress, tension. etc.

Our herbal bath ideas will give you an indication of which herbs are commonly used as remedies for 12 common disorders.

You can add any of your favourite herbs to your herbal bath or you can make up a formula that will be of benefit to whatever condition you want to alleviate. Use the standard recipe below as a guideline for your own creations and let me know of your trials and tribulations.

Aromatherapists make extensive use of full body baths, and theirs is to a certain extent a more standardized bath than a herbal bath, as most quality aromatherapy oils are of a known strength. However, this in not to say that a full body bath with aromatherapy oils is superior to a herbal bath.

Standard Herbal Body Bath Recipe.
You can either prepare an infusion (or decoction) which you add to the bath water, or you can place a handful of the herb in a muslin bag (or old stocking) which is suspended from the hot water tap so that the water flows through it.

For a stronger effect I often use a combination of these methods. I tie the herbs into the bag and first make the infusion or decoction. (Sometimes we will simmer the herbs for 10 to 20 minutes in a closed container) Then we add the resulting infusion or decoction to the water and we tie the bag to the hot water tap.

When making an infusion or decoction you usually use two cups of water and up to half a cup of the herb or formula. If you are using fresh herbs use more. Exact quantities are not that critical as the infusion will be diluted in the bath water. Apply common sense.

Pamper Your Feet With
A Herbal Foot Bath

We often tend to neglect our feet. Until the day when they start giving us trouble, we never think of them. Very few people realize that their feet may benefit from some special care and attention.

Here is a nice and easy way to pamper your feet:

At the end of the day, try to spend 10 or more minutes lying down with your feet higher than your head. Those who have access to proper massage oils, can give their feet a massage to relieve stiffness.

Herbal foot baths are another way of pampering your feet. They are relaxing and soothing at any time and will relieve tiredness without costing a lot of money.

Herbal foot baths are also of therapeutic benefit in conditions such as catarrh, colds, headaches, neuralgia and toothache. They are a nice substitute for full body baths when you are pressed for time as you can take a foot bath whilst watching television or whatever.

Rosemary Foot Bath
Use a handful of fresh rosemary for every 2 liters of boiling water. Let the rosemary steep in the water for 15 minutes, strain and use while still warm. Soak your feet in the water for 20 minutes. Dry with a soft towel and sprinkle with talcum powder, if desired.

Mint and lavender, on their own or together with rosemary, can also be used for refreshing foot baths.

http://bloggingherbman.typepad.com/tips/bath_and_body/

7 Quick Ways With Basil

Using fresh basil has been recognized as a special treat for hundreds of years. After a winter without basil we have to restrain ourselves from adding it to everything in spring. The following 7 quick ways retain the flavour and aroma of the fresh herb exceptionally well and they rank high on my list of favourite basil uses.

Caprese Salad
Basil has a special affinity for tomatoes and garlic. This colourful traditional salad is a favourite in many a home. Layer fresh basil leaves over tomato slices and mozzarella cheese. Add crushed garlic, salt and black pepper to taste. Drizzle with olive oil just before serving.

Basil_2 Lazy Pesto
With no nuts and no cheese this can hardly be called a pesto. But who cares when it tastes so good. Lazily mash 1 cup freshly chopped basil with 2 to 3 cloves garlic and 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil. Use this to top any dish that marries well with basil, especially pasta, fish and bruschetta.

Iced Basil Granita
Serve this refreshing Mediterranean-style desert whenever you want to impress your guests. Combine 1 cup chopped fresh basil with a ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, 3 tablespoons sugar, and 1 cup water. Freeze in ice cube trays and once frozen, gently blend in food processor or smoothie machine.

Thai Flair
Add basil and, if you like it hot, some chilies to stir-fries, especially those that contain eggplant, cabbage, coconut milk and cashew nuts and you’ll have an authentic Thai flavoured dish.

Purple Splash Vinegar
This comes out a lovely pink, and the vinegar preserves the flavour of the basil exceptionally well. We use purple splash in our marinades, salads, stir fries and home-made mustards. For the bathroom we make it with apple cider vinegar to use as a hair rinse and to add to the bath water. It restores the natural acid mantle of the skin and hair and is exceptionally good for dry, itchy skin. Infuse ½ cup fresh sweet basil and ½ cup fresh purple basil in 2 cups vinegar for 2 weeks. Strain and use.

Digestive Tea
Infuse a ¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves in a cup boiled water for 5 minutes, covered. This spicy tea is also a good tonic and helpful for mental fatigue.

Invigorating Bath
Infuse 1 cup chopped fresh basil in 2 cups boiled water for 15 minutes, covered. Add to your bath. Light up a few candles. Put on some relaxing music and soak in the bath for 15 minutes.

http://www.herb.co.za/herb-gardening/aphids.htm

Controlling Aphids

Aphids are one of the most common garden pests. They will attack nearly all plants. They puncture stems and new growth in order to suck the sap, in the process deforming leaves and new growth. They also excrete a substance, commonly called ‘dew’, which attracts ants. This ’dew’ also weakens plants and makes them more susceptible to mould.

Many chemical insecticides are effective against aphids, but they also kill their natural enemies.

Ladybirds are one such enemy.

One ladybird can eat up to 400 aphids in a week, making them a valuable allay of the gardener. Herbs offer natural alternatives to chemicals and they do not harm the environment.

Areas where chives, tansy and lavender grow will be unattractive to aphids. Research also indicates that they will not prey on plants growing near nasturtiums with orange and yellow flowers.

Spraying aphids with soapy water can be effective, or make your own herbal spray by boiling two tablespoons of coriander in 200 ml of water. Garlic, wormwood and basil boiled in water is another effective spray.

Remember to apply herbal sprays at least every second day until the infestation has been cleared.

http://www.herb.co.za/herb-gardening/ant-repellants.htm

Herbal Ant Repellants

We all know what diligent creatures ants are. In the garden their nests help to ventilate the soil and prevent acidity. They feed on insect pests like caterpillar larvae and fruit-fly maggots. In ancient China some species were placed in citrus orchards deliberately to attack caterpillars.

However, even if they are a fine example of hard work and diligence, ants can be a real nuisance. They can appear out of nowhere to swarm over open food in the kitchen. Particularly, they love the ‘dew’ excreted by aphids and carry them from plant to plant, so they can ‘milk’ them at their leisure.

Fortunately herbs can help to remedy the situation when the ants become a nuisance in the garden or home. Ants dislike catnip, geranium, hyssop, lavender, sage, southernwood, spearmint and tansy.

Placing any of these herbs at doorways will help prevent ants from entering. Place bunches of fresh herbs on kitchen tables and working surfaces. Dried herbs can be placed on pantry shelves and in cupboards.

Grease bands at ground level prevent them from climbing up plants.

http://www.herb.co.za/herb-gardening/gardening-in-containers.htm

Herb Gardening in Containers

Herbs can be grown very successfully in containers and can be an attractive addition to any garden or patio. Apart from their aesthetic value, they are a practical solution for people who have limited gardening space at their disposal.

Most garden centres and nurseries stock a large selection of containers. They come in many shapes and sizes and are made from various materials like plastic, concrete and real clay. Finding the right container is a matter of personal taste, as almost any container can be used for planting herbs.

Herbs can be planted on their own or in combination with other herbs. When planting more than one variety in a container, care should be taken that there will be ample growing space for all the plants.

Prune the faster growing varieties regularly to ensure they do not overgrow their slower companions. Also, competition for space and nutrients will result in some varieties flourishing while others will suffer and, in most cases, eventually die.

It is never wise to plant any of the mint varieties in the same container as other herbs. In most cases the mint will overgrow the entire pot.

Proven mixed herb containers:

An Italian chef’s selection
·Sweet basil
·Italian parsley
·Oregano
·Marjoram
·Thyme

A perfume pot
·Lavender
·Rose scented geranium
·Lemon balm
·Lemon thyme
·Pineapple sage

A salad bowl
·Garlic chives
·Rocket
·Salad burnet
·Parsley
·Celery

A French chef’s selection
·Tarragon
·Chervil
·Parsley
·Chives
·Sage

http://www.herb.co.za/herb-gardening/winter-hardy-herbs.htm

These 7 best selling winter hardy herbs can be grown indoors as well as outdoors.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is the hardiest of all the herbs. It makes a small, bushy pot plant and the more the leaves are picked the better it does. An infusion of lemon-scented thyme, helps relieve coughs and colds. Use thyme in casseroles and stews, to garnish roasts or added to salad dressings and salads.

Sage (Salvia officinalis) is a robust herb that stands up well to cooking especially in slow simmered casseroles, roasts and grills. It also combines well with cheese. An infusion of sage leaves can be used to treat colds and coughs and it also makes an excellent gargle for sore throats. To make a Sage gargle infuse 3 teaspoons fresh leaves in a cup of boiling water for 15 minutes, strain and cool. Gargle three times a day.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) needs full sun if grown in a pot and the soil should be kept moist. The leaves are rich in vitamins A, C, E, and Iron. Build your immune system by eating two tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley each day. Sprinkle it on salads, add it to meat, pasta or cheese sauces at the end of cooking or juice it up in a blender with apple or tomato juice.

Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) actually prefers cooler weather. Its delicate, fern like leaves are full of vitamin C and have a slightly aniseed taste. It’s best used like parsley, chopped as a garnish or added to salads, soups, sauces, vegetables and meat dishes at the end of cooking. An infusion of the leaves stimulates digestion, relieves head colds, and acts as a blood cleanser.

Oregano (Origanum vulgare) easily withstands winter frost but likes full sun. The more you harvest the better it grows. It has a strong aromatic taste ideal for rich winter food, but use sparingly or it can be overpowering. An infusion of oregano can be used to treat coughs, tiredness and irritability.

Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) grows well in pots and tolerates quite cold weather. It has a bushy form and attractive spikes of blue flowers. Both the leaves and flowers can be used in an infusion to treat bronchitis and loosen mucus. The leaves have a peppery taste and are a good addition to thick soups and stews.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is principally a medicinal herb that can be used to bring down fevers, and helps relieve infections, influenza, and sinusitis. Both the leaves and flowers of the plant are used as an infusion. Add peppermint or a teaspoon of honey if you find the leaves a bit bitter.

This article by Di-Di Hoffman appeared in Timeless Herb Secrets.

Di-Di is the owner of Bouquet Garni Nursery – South Africa’s Top Potted Herb Growers and Marketers - and Director of the South African Herb Academy. You’ll find hundreds of tips and recipes to help you get the most from your herbs by subscribing to his insanely popular FREE Timeless Herb Secrets newsletters.