The Jewish Palate: The Baghdadi Jews of Calcutta, India

The Jerusalem Post ^ | 07/04/2011 | By DENNIS WASKO

[James C. Bennett]

The first Jews arrived in Calcutta sometime in the late 18th century. This group was comprised of Baghdadi Jews who came from Iraq, as well as Syrian and Persian Jews. All of these Jewish settlers were fleeing from Islamic persecution in their native lands. The Jewish refugees who were forced out of their homes found welcoming safety in Calcutta. By 1800, the Jews had established a vibrant community and thrived as diamond merchants, real estate brokers, exporters, spice traders, and bakers. The first generations of Jews in Calcutta spoke Judeo-Arabic, but by the 1890’s, English was the language of choice.

The Jewish communities of India achieved their maximum population and wealth under British rule, and the small community of Calcutta continued to prosper and trade amongst all the major cities of the Far East and the rest of the world. The native Indian population was very tolerant and the Jewish community was allowed to live in peace and security. The community reached its peak population of about 5,000 during World War II when its numbers were swelled by Jewish refugees fleeing the Japanese in Burma. The community formed a solid minority, and their wedding parties and religious feasts were legendary in the raucous, bustling city. The community rarely faced discrimination as they were too small to bother with. The Hindu and Muslim communities were too busy fighting each other, and Indian Caste conflict also deflected attention from the Jews.

The golden age ended in 1947 with the birth of Indian independence. The native Indian population associated the Jews with the British and Anti-Semitic attacks began. The founding of the State of Israel in 1948 also had a negative impact on the Jews of Calcutta. Anti-Jewish and Anti-Israel sentiments ran high and many Jews left Calcutta and immigrated to Israel, England, and the United States.

Some Jews remained behind, but life was different. The community was shrinking and collapsing. The butcher shops began to close, followed by the bakeries. Hebrew was no longer taught in the Jewish schools which began admitting non-Jews in order to survive. The great Synagogues stood empty and it was almost impossible to find a minyan in order to hold services. The Jews only gathered for funerals, and sometimes not even then.

Today, there are fewer than 35 Jews remaining in Calcutta. The great, colorful community is gone – dispersed by bigotry and hatred. It is estimated that within 10 years it will disappear completely.

The original Baghdadi settlers brought their traditional recipes with them. What they discovered in India was an almost entirely new group of spices and herbs. They were also introduced to new tropical vegetables and fruits. Pumpkins, coconut, bitter melon, and many other exotics grew in the lush tropical climate. All of these new items were incorporated into the cooking of the Baghdadi community which resulted in the evolution of a whole new style of cooking.

This recipe for Marag (spiced chicken soup with vegetables) is very typical of the Baghdadi cuisine. It is more than a soup, but not quite a stew. It is a light meal designed to be served when it is too hot to eat a heavier meal.

Marag (Spiced chicken soup with vegetables) Serves 6 to 8

1 medium onion, chopped ½ teaspoon minced fresh ginger 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ hot chili, chopped (I use Serrano) 1 3-pound chicken cut into 8 pieces 4 cups water ¾ cup chopped fresh or canned tomato 1 cup cut cauliflower ½ cup cut green beans 1 medium carrot, diced medium 1 medium waxy potato (I use red new potatoes), diced medium 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro Kosher salt to taste

1.Place the onion, ginger, garlic, turmeric, chicken, and water in a stock pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes, skimming surface as needed.

2.Add all other ingredients except for cilantro. Continue simmering for 20 minutes, or until vegetables are tender.

3.Finally, add cilantro.

4.Serve in warm bowls with rice.

[KC_Lion]

Sounds...........different, but I will try anything once. I didn't know Calcutta had such a Jewish minoirty

[miss marmelstein]

Thanks for the lovely but sad article. The recipe definitely seems to have some Indian overtones but then I know practically nothing about Iraqi cuisine.

[Cronos]

India has had Israelites for thousands of years — St. Thomas went to Kerala to preach to them and many of the Jacobite/Marthomite Christians there are descendents of these Israelites who would have come to that area anytime around or before 500 BC (since Kerala is on the monsoon trade winds from Yemen)

[SunkenCiv]

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[wildbill]

Cold curried borscht. Yum, yum.

[colorado tanker]

Thanks for this interesting bit of history.

[gleeaikin]

Sounds interesting. I have a big chicken leg and other ingredients, so I think I will make a soup tonight as tomorrow it is supposed to be 100 degrees. Don’t like chile pepper, so will use red and green bell pepper. Don’t have cilantro, so will use fresh rosemary. I love cooking.

[ChicagoHebrew]

My childhood rabbi was from this community. Based on my many conversations with him, this article is quite inaccurate. Jews never faced hatred or bigotry in India, much less in Calcutta. They certainly didn’t flee the country out of fear. Instead, they left largely for economic reasons. India’s government wasn’t malevolent towards Jews, but it was socialist and incompetent towards everyone. The Jews who could acquire British citizenship went to England. Most of the rest went to Israel. My rabbi got a pulpit in a Sephardic congregation here in the U.S.

[Bellflower]

So did the Jews remain Jewish but move to other places or were they assimilated into Indian culture loosing their Jewish idenity?

Many people do not realize that Jews and Israelites may be considered two different groups. After the time of Solomon Israel was split up. “Jews” consisted of the northern Kingdom of Judah and were made up of the tribes of Judah and Benjamin with Levites mixed in. The northern Kingdom call Israel consisted of Levites mixed in with all the remaining tribes. God dealt with both kingdoms in separate and different ways.

[ChicagoHebrew]

So did the Jews remain Jewish but move to other places or were they assimilated into Indian culture loosing their Jewish idenity?

There were several distinct Jewish groups in India. This article focuses on the Baghdadi-origin Jews. They stayed Jewish and, overwhelmingly, immigrated to Israel and the UK. The Cochin Jews also stayed Jewish. The Bene Israel, the third community, only stayed Jewish in part -- though none quite assimilated. But many became Chistians centuries ago while retaining a distinct Jewish cultural identity (the "Nasrani" Christians).