Posted on 01/14/2012 8:08:34 PM PST by Robert A Cook PE
I use the “100 watt equivalent” (Usually 26 watt) in place of 60 watt incandescent bulbs where maximum light output is desired. Love it. They are much brighter than the 60 watters they replace. That might be good for your mother-in-law. And with all those lights on, she really will save money on her energy bill.
Meanwhile, I just wanna make sure there are bulbs for me when the ones in my lava lamp collection burn out.
—This idiotic statement tells you that the whole article is BS, so don’t waste your time.—
Actually, it’s not idiotic. What it is saying is that there are mitigating factors. It is one that kept me from bothering to replace some hard to get at bulbs until spring.
it isn’t a flat rate, I used 12.5 to normalize the bills from June to July but the tiers are below and above this.
I just took June and divided the total kw charges by the hours and rounded up.
one of the packages I opened had one of the bulbs already busted in it, glass powder came out of it all over the kitchen floor.
They can be dangerous right out of the packaging.
My rate is 21.4c per kW. Still want to question my calculations?
http://www.eia.gov/cneaf/electricity/st_profiles/e_profiles_sum.html
You live in Hawaii?
Or did you just mess with the calculator till you can make the numbers work?
Why do you have to be a party to this fraud?
NO, I live in CT. Why do you have to call me a liar? Is it because I WON'T see things your way? Is that how you have a discussion. When someone doesn't agree with you you call them a liar?
The link you posted is a "retail average". It does NOT accurately reflect the price I pay.
Why do you have to be a party to this fraud?
What fraud? I've asked you before how my saving money on my electric bill using CFL's is a "fraud".
And as one who understands both the fundamentals of electricity and refrigeration I'm telling you that you can about DOUBLE the so called estimated cost per year. Hust like you can cut the EPA mileage rating on a car by nearly half on some cars. It's put there too sell you something.
Look IF it was so blame cheap as they say then you could cool you home for the fraction of cost because A/C principle of removing heat is one and same as refrigeration principle of removing heat. My parents heat pump is abput two years ole now. It replaced one about 10 years old. One cost as much as the other to operate despite all the promises, Energy Star hype etc.
There are many factors at work but all have the same end result. Type of refrigerant matters as does type of compressor {hermetic or rotary} as too how fast the pull down on the temps actually A rotary compressor {not a new technology but used more now} does draw a little less amperage But It Runs Longer. But an older units with R-12 is more efficent than R-134A it's replacement thanks too the EPA found in all later models. My freezer uses 134A and draws a whopping 2 amps less. I wish it used R-12 because It also rns longer even though it isn't open and it isn't that old.
Same basic principle apply on A/C. I shorted my home a half ton capacity on purpose. Yes a larger unit would cool it down faster. It would also have more frequent start ups thus shortening the life. My A/C runa a little longer but all air in the house gets turned over. Longer off time. Electric bill savings or increase likely nothing.
A refrigerator despite the energy saving hype can only be made to do so much and must consume power to do it. I doubt there is a 18 Cubic ft or higher fridge on the market drawing less than 4 amps and I would say closer to 5 - 6 low ending it meaning 575 to almost 700 amps. IF you find one lower I can guarantee you it will be running much longer and net savings despite what that ticker says is ZILCH.
There are lots of claims of energy and cost savings which may be partially true. My parents converted from electric resistance heat to a Heat Pump about 12 years ago. Yea good savings on the electric bill. But the last heat pump unit cost nearly 10 grand. I've had my electric central heat over 21 years. Same unit and for that matter same cooling unit. Who saved more money in the long run? Me. Most heat pumps never actually pay for themselves in energy savings like the government and companies making them claim. If you get 15 years out of one it is the exception not the rule. Expect 10 but prepare for as low as 7 years of life from it.
Yes, you can, but that still does not come NEAR 8000KWH, sorry. I understand the rest of your post, and yes, I can agree with most of it, but I was clearing up an error that was off by an order of magnitude, sorry. I understand everything you are telling me, I too was trained in such things at some point in my life as well. Good on you.
For new installations, LED can be cheaper because one can use smaller wire and a smaller power supply on a low-voltage circuit that has easier installation and code requirements. Just the savings on the wire pays for the difference in the price of the bulbs. That makes the lower operating cost and longer life pure profit.
It is because, you happen to come up with a near perfect number to make your prior statement true with my size of house.
Too big a coincidence. Sorry......it is too obvious.
LOL! The -58s were awesome, weren't they!
Your self-righteousness is astounding. You are an insulting poster. Enjoy the rest of your day...
Thanks, I will .... you could have stuck to a true case that in some instances CFLs save you money, but instead you went off the deep end to make claims that even the manufacturers wouldn’t dare to make.
Good day
And they turn around and raise rates because there is not enough revenue to support the infrastructure....
...that is at least how they justified an 87% increase in water rates here!
We all conserved too much...so they had to raise rates to keep the infrastructure up!
60% of the cost is generation, 40% is distribution
http://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/index.cfm?page=electricity_factors_affecting_prices
On the Generation side, costs are going up because they are forcing the premature closure of facilities:
http://www.oregonlive.com/business/index.ssf/2010/04/pge_files_to_close_boardman_co.html
Then on the Distribution side, you have people trying to use less:
http://www.oregonlive.com/business/index.ssf/2010/04/pge_files_to_close_boardman_co.html
Distribution is a fixed cost, it gets distributed across all rate payers via an add on to the price per kwh you pay.
This results in heavy users subsidizing the lower users.
Unsure at what point this system would become unstable, but it seems pretty stout compared to water cost factors. In my area, the cost of water is almost entirely driven by distribution costs. It is as if you are getting the water for free but you are paying for it to be delivered to your home or business.
Where are you getting 8000 KWH at?
Maybe this will help you:
http://www.cwlp.com/energy_services/eso_services_programs/appliance_energy_use_chart.htm
168 kWh / month would seem to be more what you would expect.
8000 kwh is out of sight, must be Al Gore’s fridge
“Are you talking about light bulbs or the new Chevy Volt? LOL!”
As reprehensibly green our local fishwrap is, there probably has been zero Volts bought in Wino country. Since,
there has been zero pictures and ad hominum bs about the greenies buying one.
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