Posted on 06/29/2022 1:57:52 PM PDT by Kevin in California
I have a GE Tru Temp oven/stove and am having an issue which I believe may be thermostat related. The problem: when I turn on the over to say 350 degrees, it sometimes (often times) will not heat up to 350. I then have to turn the oven on…off…on…off..on..off..on.. off several times before it finally decides to preheat. Then, another problem I have is when I turn the oven on to say 375 degrees, it sometimes un-controllably warms up to which seems like 500-600 degrees and when it does that, I turn the oven off and it won’t go off. I have to resort to unplugging the unit.
Any ideas what the issue may be?
I think your oven’s name is Christine …
In the meantime, there is this, from GE, talking about adjusting temps if a setting "doesn't meet your expectations":
https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=19108
Replace the GE oven or the heating elements.
Happened to me too.
5.56mm
bump for the heating element being the likely cause and typically a cheap fix.
I am the GOD over all oven gurus. Buy a new oven!
My two cents.
Read your post and some of the comments.
Sounds more like a temperature control problem than a heating element problem.
The heating element is doing what the temperature control is telling it to do. It’s the temperature control that is not doing what YOU are telling it to do.
The uncommanded high temperature incident is worrying. The temperature control is obviously failing now. Are you going to wait until it switches on one day and won’t switch off? And maybe while you are out of the house?
Heating elements are inexpensive and simple to replace. If money is an issue, replace them but replace them all at once. I recommend this because all elements do is get hot and cool down. If one has cracked to the point of intermittent failing/uncontrolled operation, can the others be far behind?
If the problem isn’t resolved, call a qualified service technician. Yeah, it will be more expense but you will find out the real problem is and fix it … maybe. I write this because sometimes the prices on factory original repair/replacement parts can be pretty steep if the part is one that is rarely replaced.
(In 2021, I paid @$1000 (parts, shipping, 2 x service calls) to replace an upper door on a 9 year old Whirlpool stainless steel French door style refrigerator. (I wanted to keep the kitchen appliance suite all Whirlpool stainless steel.) At the time, unit replacement cost was @$2400. So, based on the situation that existed at the time, the decision to repair was a good one. Just recently saw the same make and model on sale for $1800. The decision to repair was still the most economical, but if the refrigerator had been available in early 2021 for $1800, I would have considered replacing it outright.)
Any way, going back to the range, having a service technician check the entire range and repair the real problem(s) still should be cheaper than buying a new range and a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing your house if the unattended range starts a fire that burns it down.
If the range is old and you can afford it, consider buying a new range. Latest technology (consistent with your requirements), all new components, contemporary styling, warranty, haul-away, etc.
In the meantime, unless you are physically with it and monitoring it closely, recommend that you keep it unplugged.
In some cases this might be a dead giveaway on heating elements. Carefully look them over. If you see a small discolored area it could be that it’s arcing inside. Looks like a bad weld on the outside. Will get worse until the internal wire burns a hole through it. If you have some electrical skills then turn off all power and check the resistance through the element. Should be none or next to it. If you can’t find your exact model then general numbers are available on many repair sites.
Temperature sensor or the oven control board. Heating element is ok or you wouldn’t get the varying temperatures. Appliance repairman can find out which part is the offender pretty quickly. I had similar problem and it was a bad relay on the control board.
I was a factory service tech for GE for 32 years.
Temperature sensor is most likely.
Went down to my local appliance parts store and the guy told me the same thing that it may be the sensor. Told me to remove it and bring it down to him so he could test it.
Thanks all....great replies!
Remember to power off the oven first : )
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