I have refinished a Marlin 336 RC, built 1964 per serial number, that I bought used at a gun show. I bought it knowing that it would not fire a round when the trigger was pulled and the firing pin would only dent (soft primer strike) the primer in the cartridge. I paid just over $100 for the firearm with the Nikon scope (worth more than $100) with the intent of refinishing the stock and grip, and getting the rifle back into working order.
I am comfortable working on/ disassembling/re-assembling lever action rifles, and know the 336 is easy to work on.
When I took the rifle apart, the two-part firing pin was badly worn where the (short) rear firing pin strikes the front firing pin. There was also a burr on the rear firing pin. The firing pin retaining spring appeared too flat to secure the rear pin well. These were all obvious issues.
I replaced the front and rear firing pins, Firing pin retaining spring, Extractor, both firing pin retaining pins, and hammer spring and hammer spring adjusting plate. Not the original breech bolt Not the original finger lever.
I soaked the breech bolt overnight in Hoppes and used an aluminum 'dental pic' to remove any stubborn carbon left behind inside the bolt.
I thought these updates would enable proper firing pin function and length AND also provide a more forceful strike from the hammer in case the old spring was weakened.
... and the symptoms did not change. I tried Hornaday, Federal and Winchester cartridges (30-30) with exactly the same result-- a dimpled primer.
FYI, I cannot see any damage to where the cartridge seats at the breach of the barrel.
I welcome your thoughts on what to try next?
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Most gunmakers are very helpful.
However, on my bolt, there is a section near the rear of the bolt that has a transfer pin that must be pushed up by the lever before the hammer blow will transfer energy to the firing pin. It is an out-of-battery safety.
Is your lever fully lifting this piece? Here is a pic of the transfer piece that I'm talking about. It is shown dangling at an angle at the left side of the bolt. The picture is not mine, but an internet picture:
If that transfer pin isn't fully lifted, it could be causing drag on the transfer of energy into the firing pin.
I’m no expert, but is the bolt seating all the way?
Maybe a weak hammer spring. You said it’s an “older” Marlin. Was it stored for years with a cocked hammer?
Maybe the headspace is off and the cartridges are seating too far forward in the chamber.
Another helpful thread.
New firing pin.
Could be a weakened old hammer spring, pin channel may be dirty, and the tip of the firing pin could be work down a couple thousandths of an inch
If the chamber is too deep you would have to have the barrel cut and turned in one turn then the chamber reamed to the correct depth.
I used to shoot cowboy action matches. The guys with marlins often replaced the duplex firing pins with single pins to increase lock time. But like you said there is a safety issue. I have a 1977 vintage 336C. No safety. You lower the hammer to the half cock position for a safety. But thats not safe really. I tend to leave the lever slightly openfor safety. Or even better leave the chamber empty till youre ready to shoot. If Im on stand while hunting I do keep a round in the chamber and the lever closed the hammer at half cock. Of course Im standing stock still and watching the muzzle. If I go off stand I open the action
Someone else, had the same exact problem.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/marlin-30-30-mod-336.868886/#post-11512555
New spring on the firing pin.
That’s the first thing to try.
Check that the lever is not bent. The finger lever should be proud of the lower tang when fully closed and depressing the trigger safety block. It sounds like the lever is not lifting the breech lock far enough to fully align the Marlin Safety firing pins which results in firing pin drag and failure to fire. The finger lever can be bent downward slightly through your own ingenuity or the application of a few bucks and a gunsmith. Charge should not exceed $20.00