Getting government out of the way?? Letting people think for themselves??? That's crazy talk!
Posted on 07/22/2019 5:27:15 AM PDT by napscoordinator
I’ve noticed that some LED’s are better than others. I bought LED headlight replacement bulbs for my Scion FR-S a few years ago and they only lasted a year. It was because those bulbs are also used as my “daylight driving” lights. And in that mode, the electrical system pumps low voltage into the lights. These were not dimmable and it basically burned them out.
We got one for over our oven as well and, though the switch gives a bright and dim setting, the lights are not dimmable so we just never use the dim setting.
Just make sure you buy soft white instead of daylight.
I hate the cfls because they fade things ...but LEDs are fine.
Your peer reviewed scientific/medical journal source for this claim is?
GE has its Reveal, Relax, and Refresh lights. Pick the Kelvin temperature you want and put them in.
https://www.gelighting.com/led-bulbs/product-family-hd
We have no Refresh lights—they are around 5000K.
The Relax is around 2800K. The Reveal is around 3300K.
Lights are available at these general temperatures, already, but most only give you 80% of the equivalent color spectrum of a old light bulb. The GEs give you into the mid 90% of an old light bulb, which means you look more healthy.
Fluorescent bulbs can’t begin to look as complete a light as good LEDs.
Getting government out of the way?? Letting people think for themselves??? That's crazy talk!
Same here. I’m working toward swapping every non-LED light in my house to LED.
One project involved replacing all exterior light fixtures...all corroded by yearly house washings. The existing halogen fixtures were pretty solid, but the powder coating didn’t last, and I was always replacing those little halogen bulbs. I also refused to spend $30-$50 each on fancy exterior lights so...
I bought the cheap $8 cast metal bases/arms (they Amazon), tore them down, sprayed all parts with 3 coats of white rustoleum, reassembled them, mounted them in their original locations (many on the 2nd story roofline), bought a bunch of 100W LED floods at Lowe’s-2 for $15, applied a little dielectric grease to the bulb bases, screwed them into the fixtures....and never looked back.
The multiple costs of rustoleum have protected the fixtures from the annual house washings...and, after 3 years, I have yet to replace a bulb. It was well worth the expense/effort considering, I’m getting too old to climb a ladder.
Next project will be replacing 15 incandescent can light floods in the kitchen with those little LED replacement setups.
The cheap ones cycle at 60 Hz.
LEDs are flashing, as do old light bulbs and fluorescents. However, tungsten in old light bulbs never cooled between bursts, while fluorescents stimulate gases that do shimmer, but still allow for a form of light continuity.
LEDs are strobe light equivalents. You want 120 Hz refresh, and life is then good.
I find I have issues with my eyes with the LED bulbs. Don’t have the level of annoyance with spiral or incandescent ones.
I believe the LED bulbs technically turn on and off 60 times a second where the persistence of the older ones maintained a constant level of brightness for the eye to experience.
I also see much more disturbing flicker from LED bulbs on a generator than the old bulbs did.
You would be referring to "daylight" color temperature. Your eyes evolved to work in daylight and function best with that color temperature. Personally my 75+ year old eyes far prefer the daylight LEDs than the lower color temperature ones that emulate incandescent or whale oil lighting. My only problem is that quite a few of them overheat their circuitry when installed in enclosed fixtures. I've replaced the fluorescents in my shop area with LEDs for two reasons - first, the fluorescents frequently won't light at all when the humidity is high as it frequently is in Georgia and Florida, and secondly I can get a lot more light for the same electricity usage, and when you're reading micrometers or setting machinery, you want to be able to clearly see what you're dong or risk ruining the part.
Soft white was the game changer for me. The harsh “cool white” was just nasty. Once the warm white came out in multiple configurations, I started switching over.
LEDs flicker as the AC current switches polarity. Unavoidable unless enough ac to dc rectification occurs but that makes a bulb more costly and bulky.
I still don’t do solar because of the battery.
I’ve got an old solar light on my front porch that we bought on the cheap 9 years ago that is still going strong.
As long as the battery works, that’s really all I care about.
LED are supposed to last 9 years.
I still need to adjust my voltage down some.
We changed out every light in our house, choosing light types (bright White, soft white, etc) depending on room use/location. We reduced our electric bill over $100 a month in summer and have only had to replace a handful of lights that went bad over the last 3 years.
Our initial investment (we made the switch all at one time) was around $250 and we recouped that in just 3-4 months.
So LED’s can’t run on DC without converting to AC? I did not know that.
I honestly thought you could convert the AC power to DC before it hit the LED.
A couple of years back, I went into a Home Depot for new lighting for my attic, opting for fluorescent. The salesman told me he had refitted all of his home lights with LED’s. At the time LED’s were very new and extremely costly. I remember telling him that once the Chinese started making them in bulk, they would quickly whore out the market and the prices would tumble. Early adopting in tech and electronics always puts you very long on cost.
My wife hated that and refused to allow any in the house. Now they have the warm normal color, I have been changing them out and she doesn’t even notice. the only problem now is dimming. Even the dimmable one’s don’t dim correctly.
This seems to suggest that LED’s can produce pure DC light, with no flashing:
https://www.sunlitest.com/faq/do-led-lights-run-on-ac-or-dc-current/
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