Posted on 04/12/2018 6:58:36 AM PDT by DUMBGRUNT
:^)
Very nice!
and again thank you.
I could not locate #2142, but I did find a very impressive #2192.
Do you visualize a form, then fit the shapes to it?
Guessing a 1-2-3 triangle, or a 7 sphere hexagram base shape?
Just fun to look at, then think about on the underlying form, the polarity, and how sometimes I think my cube is just right.Until the beads start a fight and jump all over.
Thanks.
I selected a nice large flat one as a Christmas gift for my boss.
Then deposited it on his kitchen refrigerator, still wrapped (to prevent scratching).
Took him a few days to develop a removal technique.
He left it on the fridge to challenge others, until his wife tired of it.
Can this magnetic field be affected by glacial melt or glacial freezing (Ice Ages)? Or vice versa?
On a personal problem. I have an apartment in which there is a 5 volt current at the faucet emptying into the bathtub. Some people can feel it. I cannot. When we turn the whole apartment’s electricity off, there is still 5 volts at the faucet. Is this dangerous, is it safe to rent my apartment out??? Would you rent it knowing that info? What else can I do? This is the first complaint about that in 30 years. The house was shaken by the Mineral, VA earthquake in 2011.
You can charge your phone with that for free!
Have you verified this with a competent electrician?
Why were buckyballs illegal?
The magnetic field is believed to be generated by differing rotation rates between the core, which is mostly iron and the mantle, so climate should have no effect on it that I could imagine.
1) Electric and magnetic fields can be influenced by temperature. For example in the winter if you leave your lights on your car battery will drain faster than in the summer.
Why? Because, materials that are classed as CONDUCTORS tend to INCREASE their resistance with an increase in temperature. INSULATORS however are liable to DECREASE their resistance with an increase in temperature. Materials used for practical insulators (glass, plastic etc.) only exhibit a marked drop in their resistance at very high temperatures. They remain good insulators over all temperatures they are likely to encounter in use.
This is also related to why they recommend you store batteries in the refrigerator when not in use. The insulator will increase it’s resistance with the lower temperature and limit a non-use discharge over time.
As to the faucet - two possibilities. 1) is there any heating tape/coil on any of the pipes to prevent freezing? If so then it could be one has been nicked or worn. 2) given the earthquake you mentioned it could be that there is an electrical wire that is loose/nicked/worn near the water pipe.
Do you have an outlet near the sink at all? Does it have a GFCI (ground fault current interrupter) on it at either the outlet or the circuit panel? Not that that is the cause, but it would possibly limit any dangerous current on the kitchen electrical line from becoming dangerous - standard code these days in most places.
Sounds like a NEUTRAL - GROUND issue.
NOTE WELL: they are not the same thing.
That said if you still have a measurable voltage when the building main (not simply the apartment)is disconnected from the source it has to be something else.
I have heard but never seen, that junk metal buried in the earth can produce a slight electric shock under some conditions.
Are the water supply lines nonmetallic?
Typically with copper or galvanized pipe, the faucet would be grounded. Not so with PEX or some others.
Also, the supply tubes from the stop(valve) to the faucet are often plastic.
If you run a wire from the faucet to a known ground does it still show voltage on a meter? Any sparks when grounding the faucet?
Guessing that it is a stray voltage from a poor ground or ground connection.
In some locations, the local power company will look at the problem.
The building is a townhouse, 4 stories, a basement apt. with the problem and 3 floors upstairs. I know the voltage was there when we turned off the apartment main. The apartment gets one electric bill, the upstairs a different metered bill. We did not try turning off both mains. We will try that. I have never seen a spark, and I can’t feel the voltage (5v). The house was built in 1901, so metal, not plastic pipes from street. I looked where the water cut-off is, the pipes appeared to be galvanized not copper, and a wire aimed in the direction of the electric panel passing behind the drywall seemed firmly clipped to the water pipe. Any other ideas?? Anyway, thanks.
The problem was complained about in the summer of 2017. There had been a fair amount of rain and we do have a sump pump because of the high water table. However we also tested after a dry period as well. The problem is in the bathroom tub faucet. We do have GFI in both the bathroom and the kitchen but you cannot touch it and either the sink or tub faucet at the same time. More ideas???
Sounds like it’s a matter of tracing your water pipes to see where it is picking up the current from.
Worst case it’s in the ground outside - but that’s unlikely if it is only the one faucet.
Next worse case is some drywall has to be taken down to finish tracing the piping and find the current source.
You can get a lighted scope with an application for a smart phone, if you have one, so you limit the damage by only putting in a small hole.
I’d check the electrical on the sump just to make sure, but I’m leaning against it if it isn’t affecting the other parts of the facility - but maybe the bathroom is closer and the path of least resistance.
Tracing to find the source is the only thing I can think of at this point. Might get a meter out to check the current level. 5V on a metal circuit with minimal resistance likely doesn’t have a high current so in my mind it’s likely a nicked wire. current is coming from somewhere.
This is not my line of work, but have been down this road.
We live in a 100-year-old house, when we moved in the refrigerator had a similar problem.
I upgraded to 3 wire receptacles and added a ground wire to the back of the fridge GROUND SCREW, did the trick.
The main tool I used was a Greenlee GT16 noncontact voltage tester. *Note the model goes to FIVE VOLTS, many others only read near 110 volts.
https://www.greenlee.com/products/ADJUSTABLE-VOLTAGE-DETECTOR.html
I check the voltage tester before EVERY USE by rubbing it past my sleeve or the carpet to see it light up.
Guessing that somewhere there is a ground fault, I had the fridge and an old desk fan.Upgrading to 3 prong receptacles that were properly grounded was the answer.
I did the work slowly over some time.Checked the work with an inexpensive tester:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/206212329?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD27E%7C27-11_TOOLS_%26_ACCESSORIES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034238984%7c58700003943782712%7c92700031954542185&gclid=CjwKCAjww6XXBRByEiwAM-ZUIABo9CR69SvEPVdvwmER08TVbsTrEzktIHKid7dpVaUIArjpRIXm6xoCkrgQAvD_BwE&dclid=CMqLiPqr59oCFUOUaQodcSMI-g
My retired cousin did her entire old house while her husband was working out of town, slow but sure.
One reason some people feel it is called skin resistance some have dry skin and higher resistance to the flow of electricity.
Try grounding the faucet from underneath the sink to a clean metal pipe. sand the pipes to shine them with sandpaper,use ground clamps and copper wire.
Clamps like this one: https://www.grainger.com/product/2DDE7?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166591489617!!!g!137372519842!&ef_id=WtdOrwAAAH85oxA0:20180502153458:s
Very nice!
I never knew there was a Mammoth Cave access!
Are any driving tours available?
Would love to see it, but only so many hours in a day.
Hiking takes time and, I recall the dinosaurs roaming about?
I have an NPS Disabled veterans pass would that get me in?
I just returned from a business trip and have a number of questions, but too tired to ask them. One, however, I am not clear on your suggestion to ground the faucet from underneath the sink. The faucet fills the bathtub, comes out of a tiled wall and the tub is set in a tiled concrete basement floor. Of course a refrigerator is an electrical appliance; a bathtub is not. More after I have a chance to go over all this with my electrically inclined friend. At any rate, thanks for suggestions, both of you.
We also found 8 volts at the copper pipe entering the water heater in the basement. No voltage on the copper pipes in the baseboard heaters upstairs. The house has one water service but two meters—one for the English basement apartment, and the other for the rest of the house. The heating system is a 4 zone baseboard water heating system. A zone for each floor.
I was thinking faucet on a sink, not over a tub.
Look very closely at the main ground connections related to the disconnect panels. My guess is that it is related to the other panel because you noted that the stray voltage was there when one panel was off.
Is the main ground clamp on the pipe that goes to the tub faucet? Works best, and belongs on the main water supply to the building, coming from the city or the well.
Should be one for each panel.
Sometimes goes to the electric meter, code varies.
The ground clamp belongs BEFORE the water meter on the city side
Should be an obvious heavy wire (GREEN?) going to a clamp.
Power down everything, remove the clamp, sand the pipe and clamp until it shines, replace and tighten clamp and wire connectors.
You mentioned hot water heat. The ground should NEVER EVER connect to the heating system. They can stand alone and not have a true earth ground.
Most water heaters use a dielectric union, when they work, may not allow stray voltage to pass.
Also the lug inside the box.
Some use both potable water pipe ground and grounding rod, if you had that setup and the ground rod was changed (or clamp loose) and if, if... could be the problem.
Let us know what you find.
YMMV.
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