Posted on 12/01/2017 10:58:01 AM PST by BipolarBob
There hasn't been one of these in a while. Mine failed. Give us your thoughts.
If you have an electronic lock, it may have come with a key as well. Take off the electronic pad and use the key to open it.
I bought a Browning Medallion series safe about 25 years ago.
It has served me well.
A combination safe built with layers of concrete and steel are best, with the safe custom built into the ground. It’s not for quick acquisition, though.
Otherwise one can burn through the popular safes quickly and easily. Safes bolted into subfloors can be taken by quickly cutting through the floor around them with a saw using a nail-tolerant blade. Whole safe loads into a small truck or trailer.
“Make sure it’s a quality safe. There are tons of videos on youtube of people peeling heavy gun safes with a crowbar and chisel in less than 10 minutes. I’m sure burglars are quite good at this.”
Going through the door is too much work. Unfortunately most safes (even the expensive ones) can be cut open in a few minutes using a $10 angle grinder from Harbor Freight. Peel open a side where the steel is thinnest and pull the guns out. Many people question whether it even make sense to have a safe anymore.
True. I sacrifice quick and convenient access for safe storage.
It would take me about two minutes to retrieve and load. Probably five if I was under stress.
This is what works for me and my family. YMMV.
That fire was really hot.
I have an American Security safe with key pad (no key backup). The pad comes off to replace the battery. All other components are locked inside the safe.
I have a Liberty Colonial. I chose the manual combination lock because I’ve never trusted the electronic type.
Have you tried contacting Liberty and see if they can switch out to a manual lock?
My belt and suspenders: two gun cabinets bolted to closet walls, no kids & a couple `loose’ large caliber handguns in different rooms, a 100 lb. bulldog with keen ears, a short-barrel 12 gauge pump next to my bed and a gun theft rider on my homeowners policy.
Yes, I have been in contact with Liberty Safe Company. No, they can do nothing except recommend me having a locksmith drill it at considerable expense. Electronic only floor safes should be illegal to sell.
Sadly it does not have a key or a place for a key. It is electronic only.
Deosn’t Liberty have some kind of warranty concerning that?
Electronic safes are the rage, not me. And you dilemma re-enforces my aversion .
My main concern has been with EMP . Now your problem.
Yes, just not a very good one. Something about fire and burglary and five years limit(which I am four years past). I cannot recommend Liberty safes or any electronic only floor safes.
I have several safes from Harbor Freight scattered around the house. They are all electronic with a key. I’ve never had any of them fail.
So true. You are buying time with a safe. Thicker gauge steel and bigger door bolts take more time to defeat. At least 11 gauge steel, and bolt it to the floor/wall so it can't be tipped on its side, making it easier to open. Any safe can eventually be broken into but a house security system helps, as the criminal doesn't have much time to work before homeowner, or the police get there.
A dead battery is supposed to fail open.
I don’t have a dead battery. The battery is fine. It is external and can be easily changed. I’ve talked with the manufacturer and they declared the safe FUBAR.
Dang Bob...
Sounds like cut the sucker out
Of the Floor
Get a grinder with a cut off wheel
and spend some Quality Time with
That POS that has Your Stuff inside.
Stocks and Bonds or Family Photos?
I’m almost through it now. It gets dusty so I just do a little at a time. It just has ammo. Hopefully a cutting disc nicking some ammo wouldn’t . . .
To late For Earplugs?
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