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I suspect the penetrants never get to where they need to be: The threads on the end of the bolt facing me. (For those not familiar with typical brake caliper setups, the bolts have a mostly smooth shaft, with threads at the end that screw into the caliper "body", said threads facing outward toward the wheel, but buried into that caliper "body". They are a long way from where penetrating oil can be applied.)

I have considered heating the caliper body in the location of the threaded portion of each bolt, but, I figure that will destroy the Neoprene(?) boots that protect part of the upper shaft of the bolt.

Any ideas?

1 posted on 03/20/2017 9:07:15 AM PDT by Paul R.
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To: Paul R.

Electric impact wrench.


2 posted on 03/20/2017 9:08:40 AM PDT by Lurkinanloomin (Natural Born Citizen Means Born Here Of Citizen Parents - Know Islam, No Peace -No Islam, Know Peace)
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To: Paul R.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=frozen+caliper+bolt


3 posted on 03/20/2017 9:09:56 AM PDT by libertarian27 (FR Cookbooks - On Profile Page)
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To: Paul R.

On my F-250 I use a crecent wrench as a sort of crowbar pushing its side out a bit one at a time , using the housing on the disk for
leverage. They have stuff on youtube describing it


4 posted on 03/20/2017 9:10:13 AM PDT by JudgemAll (Democrats Fed. job-security Whorocracy & hate:hypocrites must be gay like us or be tested/crucified)
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To: Paul R.

Try whiskey!. This is not a joke. Pour some whiskey on the bolts and tap on the head to try to vibrate the whiskey into the threads. I have released many hard rusty, corroded bolts with whiskey.


5 posted on 03/20/2017 9:10:34 AM PDT by chuckles
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To: Paul R.

Use a Ford tool (Big hammer) and smack the head in a couple whacks. Then use an impact gun to hammer it out. That’s assuming you already used penetrating oil and let it soak for awhile.

If it breaks then you needed a new caliper anyway....


6 posted on 03/20/2017 9:10:56 AM PDT by Mechanicos
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To: Paul R.
Short of burning bolts out with a torch when I was an iron-worker we would use dw40.
7 posted on 03/20/2017 9:11:18 AM PDT by Berlin_Freeper (Happy Nobama!)
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To: Paul R.

Impact gun as already mentioned. A shop would use an air powered one. The DeWalt battery powered should do it as well.


8 posted on 03/20/2017 9:11:28 AM PDT by wrench
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To: Paul R.; Windflier; CurlyDave; PeaceBeWithYou; WP Lonestar; iontheball; pfflier; Pikachu_Dad; ...

Windflier had a great thread regarding a somewhat similar problem, several days ago: Maybe some of the responders have run into this sort of brake caliper removal problem as well.

(I don’t need to entirely remove the calipers — just swing them “out” to do a brake job / replace pads.)


9 posted on 03/20/2017 9:11:46 AM PDT by Paul R.
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To: Paul R.
"frozen" caliper bolts

Let'em go!
Let'em go!
Let'em go!
Let'em go!
-- Elsa

11 posted on 03/20/2017 9:13:51 AM PDT by ClearCase_guy (Abortion is what slavery was: immoral but not illegal. Not yet.)
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To: Paul R.

With a torch, heat that end of the bolt until cherry red. Tap on it a little, then loosen as usual.


12 posted on 03/20/2017 9:13:58 AM PDT by Migraine (Diversity is great- -- until it happens to YOU.)
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To: Paul R.

Don’t worry about messing up the boots. If the bolts are that bad, cleaning them up won’t matter much, within a year or so you’ll be back in the same boat. It’s going to need a new caliper.

You need an impact or a long breaker bar. If you wreck the bolt heads, you’ll need to torch it apart.


13 posted on 03/20/2017 9:14:28 AM PDT by Malsua
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To: Paul R.

2nd on the heat. A cheap mapp gas torch from the hardware store will work fine. Before reinstallation coat the threads with anti-sieze and torque to the proper spec. Will never be a issue again


16 posted on 03/20/2017 9:21:22 AM PDT by rebelskid
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To: Paul R.

wouldn’t it be cheaper and quicker to just steal a vehicle?

clean em up real good if you get them out- put never cease on threads- out back in, and should be good for a few years - If you torch the bolt- If there is a rubber seal- you might have to replace that- Can’t remember if there is one or not-


17 posted on 03/20/2017 9:21:46 AM PDT by Bob434
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To: Paul R.

Torch..........................


19 posted on 03/20/2017 9:23:13 AM PDT by Red Badger (Ending a sentence with a preposition is nothing to be afraid of........)
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To: Paul R.

As a last resort, you might get some dry ice from
a grocery store, chip off a piece and hold it with
pliers against the bolt. This will make it contract
and pull away from the caliper, then it should come out.


20 posted on 03/20/2017 9:23:38 AM PDT by tet68 ( " We would not die in that man's company, that fears his fellowship to die with us...." Henry V.)
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To: Paul R.

At Home Depot in the corner they have affordable steel piping about 5 feet long of the diameter that you can fit over the end of your ratchet handle.

it’s 5 feet long so probably will give you the leverage you need.

$8


22 posted on 03/20/2017 9:26:29 AM PDT by gaijin
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To: Paul R.

Kroil. The stuff works where no other penetrant will.


26 posted on 03/20/2017 9:31:21 AM PDT by bigbob
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To: Paul R.

Drill it out, the heat and vibration from the drill will often break it loose


27 posted on 03/20/2017 9:33:36 AM PDT by HangnJudge
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To: Paul R.

Something that has worked for me in the past is to put a long closed-end (six-sided is better than 12) wrench (not socket) on it, and smack the free end of the wrench a few times with a hammer (poor man’s impact wrench).


29 posted on 03/20/2017 9:39:22 AM PDT by IYAS9YAS (An' Tommy ain't a bloomin' fool - you bet that Tommy sees! - Kipling)
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To: Paul R.

Hacksaw, if there’s room between the caliper and its mount, cut off the bolts, drill them out, replace with helicoils if necessary.

If none of the other options has worked.

Also, use LOTS of high-temp antiseize compound (I use nickel-bearing for my suppressors and other places).

Keep us posted.

Norm


30 posted on 03/20/2017 9:39:40 AM PDT by normbal (normbal. somewhere in socialist occupied America)
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