Posted on 08/16/2015 8:56:08 AM PDT by JoeProBono
In the Mid 1990’s, Mel Parry, a Warrant Officer QGM, and a veteran of the well known 22nd Special Air Service Regiment (British SAS) saw the requirement for a new generation of of professional blades that could replace the legacy of survival tools that had been standard equipment for decades.
(From the Manufacturer)
Mel Parry knew that these professionals deserved something better. Collaborating with both service members and retirees from elite special forces throughout the world, he began to design what would be recognized as a breakthrough in both functionality and quality of manufacture. This breakthrough took the form of the Perry Blade in 1995. Unfortunately due to various commercial considerations the production of the Parry Knife did not proceed after 1995 as planned, and therefore a period of some 13 years has elapsed since the current model, incorporating a number of improvements over its predecessor was re-introduced in 2009. The knife is hand crafted in Sheffield, England by Samuel Staniforth, a cutlery maker since 1864 and acknowledged as producing the finest knives available, being part of an industry that was first established over 700 years ago. The knife is fairly simple in design with a bellied Bolo/Bowie type clipped blade with a serrated back edge, and finished in a black Dupont Teflon coating. However, on closer examination the knife offers several different cutting edges and holds, making it extremely versatile.
The knife is strong and heavy, with a blade 9 inches long made from ¼ inch thick X46Cr13 420 Mel Perry, SASstainless steel. The main cutting edge is bevel-ground for strength, whilst the deep belly shape takes the weight forward, in the manner of a Khukri, giving the knife a powerful chopping stroke. The point looks clipped in shape but is ground to provide a spear point that accentuates its use for prying /levering and digging. Also near the choil is a hollow-ground section which is honed to razor sharpness for fine cutting and whittling, ideal for making fire sticks The serrated edge on the spine of the blade provides for a sawing action capable of cutting rope, webbing or gristle. The knife is of a full tang construction, with black linen micarta screwed to the tang providing for ease of replacement, resulting from either wear, damage or the choice of an alternative grip to be fitted.
Also in order to extend the survival attributes of the knife it has been found that by wrapping Survival Gear Reviewparacord around the handle, this provides some 2m of cord for use in either a survival situation or correspondingly as a means of restraint for when the role is reversed to one of combat.
The knife is also designed with relatively short guards so that one can choke up the grip for fine work, with the ricasso being extended and having linger grooves to make the choke grip firm and comfortable. The steel butt is squared off on two sides so that it may be used as a hammer in either direction, the flats being file-cut to reduce the tendency for the face to skid off the work on striking. The butt also incorporates a lanyard hole for additional security of retention of the knife as well as a means of securing the paracord, should this option be selected as an additional survival aid.
The Parry Blade – The Definitive Working Knife
Specifications: Designer: Mel Parry – Warrant Officer – 22nd SAS Regiment Country of Origin: United Kingdom Length overall: 13.75 inches (34.9cm) Blade length: 8.75 inches (22.2cm) Blade thickness: ¼ inch (6.4mm) Blade material: X46 Cr13 420 stainless steel coated black Dupont Teflon Hardness: Rockwell 57-58Rc Blade shape: Bolo/Bowie- type with serrated back edge Edge: Main edge bevel-ground; hollow ground section near Choil for extra sharpness Point is clipped in shape and ground to a spear point Grip: Contoured Micarta scales with leather underlay. Contoured double guard and butt, the butt squared off for use as a hammer. Construction: Scales screwed to full tang. Sheath: Cordura or Leather (more at source)
He takes nice pics too. Everything handmade.
Got to go take a peek at those......:o)
This is cool tool as well.....
http://www.personalarmament.com/2011/05/make-your-own-tactical-tomahawk.html
Not much of a knife guy, but I snagged a unused Al Mar 4003 Tanken (late 70’s I think) and Gerber MK II at Ron’s a few years back for $150 total.
Cool project. This is the one we settled on:
Not a bad piece of gear for $40. They fit nice and neat right next to the spare tire.
L
nice transformation....followed in my dad’s footsteps picking up old large bastard files and heavy screwdrivers at yard sale for “stock”. Amazing the high quality steel in the old tools. Dirt cheap.
Very nice....both of em.... You have a primo knife builder in your area. Robert Terzoula ...Bob made my EOD team knives we cherished, used but with care. BBQ knives...:o)
Just ordered one as well as the Estwing Hatchet to make my own hawk as in the link I provided above..... thanks for the suggestion.
Yep I’m a beginner hammer monkey on the propane forge . Went to a few of Dickey Robinson’s hammer in’s in Vega Texas before he passed away . My bar stock is railroad spikes and farrier files as well. Haven’t had much chance to forge this past year due work and travel........ will get to it and share some of my work as soon as possible....
Stay Safe !!
If I had a decent wheel grinder I’d think about making one out of a drywall hammer. I think you’ll be pleased with the Estwing. It’s a solid piece of gear. It ain’t a SOG but 2 of those weren’t in the budget. LOL.
The edge needs a bit of work but some elbow grease and a file takes care of that.
Made a lot of GOMK’s (get off me knives) for friends and family the last 14 years.... simple durable cheap and deadly . Not one cost me more than 10$ tops to make as gifts, Crude, ugly but functional for purpose intended.
GOMK’n !!
Long-time knife collector/accumulator here. The Parry knife is a little too gimmicky for my taste... I mean it’s curved and re-curved, has a nail puller, hammer, short bit of serration along the top edge. It’s a borderline fantasy knife. And it’s too expensive, as fantasy knives always seem to be. Best to avoid them. They’re wall hangers, meant to impress rather than be used. And quarter-inch stock is a little too thin for me in a big survival knife anyway, furthering my suspicion that it was never designed to be a hard-working knife.
But there are things I like about the knife. It has a full tang, which is attached by what look like three good hefty screws. Rivets are a good choice as well. Screws, rivets, you generally want three of them. It’s got a Micarta handle, an excellent choice for strength and durability. For heaven’s sake, avoid horn, wood and stacked leather washers like the plague. The first two will crack or break on you with hard use, and leather will rot in a jungle environment, as our troops discovered in Vietnam, with the KA-BARs. I’m not saying KA-BARs aren’t good knives. Indeed, just the opposite; they are excellent, excellent knives. Everyone should have one. Hell, get two. They are only going up in price, last I heard the price is north of $50.00 right now. But that’s cheap for a good knife nowadays. There are different companies manufacturing them these days, at least a couple of them doing real nice work. Make sure you get one of those, nothing from China, etc.
You just have to know where you’re going with a knife, and what it’ll be exposed to once you get there. I would take a KA-BAR anywhere, no qualms. I just wouldn’t take one with a leather handle into the jungle, if I were going to be there for awhile.
Now, if you’re going to be in a survival situation for any length of time, you’ll want to have more than one knife with you anyway: a small one for small detailed tasks, a medium-sized knife, like a KA-BAR for heavier work or light chopping, and a machete or Kukri. How about a hatchet and an axe? It all depends on where you are going, how long you’ll be there, and what you’ll be doing while you are there. And if it is a true long-term survival situation, say for the rest of your life after the SHTF, where your life will absolutely depend on having these tools, you’ll want backups of each.
Here are some knives I like and own and could see my younger self going into the you-know-what with a selection them... KA-BAR, Cold Steel San Mai Trail Master, Randall Model 1, full-size Boker Smatchet (a truly frightening chunk of steel), a large assortment of Benchmade folders, and many others.
Good brands include Cold Steel (check out their videos on their website), SOG, Benchmade, Randall. There are many newer ones, which I am not very familiar with, since I quit accumulating knives about 10 or 15 years ago, but those are some old standbys.
Good luck (and check out some of the knife forums for further advice and guidance, and tons of articles).
I meant to say... "which is attached TO THE HANDLE by what look like three good hefty screws."
Here's the style KA-BAR I'm talking about (the official US Marine Corps KA-BAR):
http://www.cutleryshoppe.com/1217usmcfightingutilityknife-plainedge.aspx
BTW, I've purchased many knives from the Cutlery Shoppe --> http://www.cutleryshoppe.com. Their prices are fair and their catalog is always interesting. Even now there are things I'd like to buy when I look at their website! Plaza Cutlery is also really good. I've also purchased quite a few from Nordic Knives. (I'm not affiliated with any of these companies.)
Cool! Oh, yes, it’s been through the wringer. But you’ve still got it after all these years. That’s good. I’ve had two, both lost — one with stag scales taken by some ashholes who burglarized my apartment (I was mad as hell but also felt pretty good about it because they missed five guns that were right under their noses), and a second one with standard scales that got left in a car I totaled and forgot about in all the excitement. Hate to lose knives!
Damn..... dats a knife ....:o)
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.