Posted on 05/29/2015 6:28:50 AM PDT by PennsylvaniaMom
Need some expert FReeper advice on Refridgerators...
Here is my problem. Several weeks ago our whole house, central air unit broke. It's 23 years old, and had a major repair two years ago. We knew we were in borrowed time the last two summers. It's been fairly warm in SW PA, but finances don't permit us to buy a new HVAC system (and I won't finance a new system unless the furnace goes in the Fall and it is an absolute necessity). We are getting by using fans and open windows upstairs windows overnight.
Now here is my Refridgerator issue, since the house has been consistently in the low to mid 80s temperature wise, our almost 10 years old Maytag has been freezing everything. I have the fridge settings down to 2 (on a 1-10 scale) and we have to keep everything forward to prevent a hard freeze. There is NO leakage on the floor, but there is an frost build up on the rear interior. This is how the previous one went bad.
My question is, does the outside room temp affect how a fridge runs? And if so, if no AC repair (but I have to purchase a new refeidgerator) will the room temp warmth affect (read shorten the life span) of a new unit. OR am I just experiencing a run of bad luck?
I'm at work, so I probably can't respond with a "thanks" til later this evening, but please know I appreciate any guidance a fellow FReeper can give.
The problem is the defrost timer has failed. This is not unusual and is easily replaced by someone with minimal skills and basic hand tools.
What is happening is that the timer is not activating and the frost inside the freezer is not allowing the damper between the freezer and refrigerator to function correctly to regulate the temperature inside the refrigerator. Since the air moves from the freezer into the refrigerator this damper is what controls the temperature inside the refrigerator section.
Your fridge should run fine at that ambient temperature so I’m assuming something else is up.
Try a few simple things:
1. If it’s an older model with exposed coils on the back, be sure they are free of dust. Also, pull the unit out from the wall about an inch more for better air circulation.
2. There is a vent that brings cold air from the freezer section to the fresh food section. It’s usually on the back wall of the inside of the fresh food section. Make sure this has not become blocked.
3. Check the door gaskets and make sure they are in place and not damaged.
4. If there is any sort of economy mode switch, make sure it is not in the economy or energy savings position. All this does is turn off the door heaters that prevent sweating.
5. You might try a good old-fashioned manual defrost after these steps to get a fresh start.
Beyond that, I suspect it might be a thermostat or defrost timer gone bad. Neither would be a budget buster.
I sympathize with you regarding the how hot and humid your home may feel during some days.
I think fellow FReepers have figured out your refrigerator issue.
On a related note about your AC -
Have you considered purchasing several inexpensive 6000 - 9000 btu window units (Haier, GE, Samsung run about $110-150), and using those on your north windows?
I’ve owned houses back in CT that were 2200 - 4400 Sq ft, and always refused to buy into central AC due to its observe cost.
The wife didn’t want ugly window AC units to be seen from the road, so I installed them in the north facing bathroom windows.
That was always enough AC for the downstairs and upstairs by leaving the bathroom doors open (except when using the toilet ;n).
Electric bills were never over much $100 per month.
Just an idea to get you thru three hot summer months.
Good luck.
Meant AC Obscene cost -
Darn autospell..
CLEAN IT THOROUGHLY!!
turn it off completely, let it thaw completely for AT LEAST 24 hours, until any and all possibly frozen water is gone and drained.
Then clean the dust off of the radiator fins (!!!)
this will solve MOST of these types of issues and extend its life
Unless there is a physical problem (burnt motor or coolant leak) then the only other problem is cleaning it inside and out to like new clean.
You WILL notice a difference
Agreed. An honest repair person would suggest this.
But in my experience they are far & few between. One gent I was fortunate to run into I had approached about my own fridge problem. He freely offered advice that proved to be 100% accurate for a number of issues with ‘frostless’ refrigerators.
The biggest problem is being patient enough to wait the time needed for the fridge to completely thaw out.
My own fridge I sold to my former employer for their breakroom and 5 years later it’s still operating (also a Frigidaire...s/a Maytag and, frankly, the same era of manufacture as yours).
PennsylvaniaMom, you have my sympathy for your HVAC problems. We had to replace ours just a couple of weeks ago. Our old one was 18 years old, and had been repaired as many times as was possible. Finally it just gave up.
Our electric bills have been sky-high, especially in the winter. Our HVAC guys told us that was because the old heat pump was working largely on auxiliary heat when it got cold, thus driving our cost way up. I hope you’ll be able to replace your system soon.
We haven’t gotten an electric bill yet, but it’s easy to tell that the new pump is cooling the house much better and removing more humidity from the air.
23 years is a great run for an HVAC system. They don’t make ‘em like that these days.
Might have to worry about a new furnace soon.
Regulations, regulations...........
https://secure.giveworks.net/energy/furnace_rule/
That’s a great suggestion.
If window units aren’t an option, Home Depot and Lowes sell portable ACs for about $300, but they can be used only in one room at a time.
Got it.
Then close the oor.
close the door - and make sure the light goes out.
Same here. Not only do I keep a refrigerator in the garage to keep the beer cool, I also have a small freezer there as well. Never had a problem with either unit but keeping both well stocked makes quite a difference on how often they need to run. The freezer is stocked mostly with fruits and veggies, some extra ice blocks (needed when going “portable”) but no meat. The garage gets quite warm during the summer months and, living in Wisconsin, very cold in the winter.
You’re in all likelihood right.
The refrigerator is 10+ years old. My experience has been that in a vast majority of the cases as described, it is usually the timer.
Very well played
Yes for a while but will have to keep repeating the defrosting process until a new thermostat is installed.
my system was 26 years old, had to replace it last year.
did alot of research into the various systems, and went with a trane...
one suggestion, no matter what unit you pick, use a factory authorized installer of that system.
if joe the installer says he can get you any system you want, do not use him. use only factory authorized installers for the particular system.
the factory guys can usually get you some great financing too ( i got 36 months interest free from trane )...
you also get rebates from the power companies when you buy, so check and make sure you get them all (a reputable factory authorized installer will usually take care of this for you)...
do not call sears, EVER...
Mine did the very same thing.
It was the control panel. The circuit board.
$60. Easy to replace. That was three years ago.
It’s the humidity. Without AC, the air in the house is more humid, which results in more frost. Since you decided on keeping the windows open at least some of the time, there is nothing you can do to lower the humidity.
Good points..could also be that the door seals are degrading..letting humidity inside...they can be replaced fairly easily and inexpensively..
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