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One more item to consider, beyond making sure you don't impede air circulation. If this is a 'frost-free' model, they have a heating tape built into the freezing coils that periodically melts the ice off of them and the condensate drains into a pan that is usually located under the door behind a dress panel in the front. This 'defrosting' is controlled by a defrost timer or a defrost control board that can fail. If it is a frost free unit, and you periodically check for water in your condensate pan and see none, it may mean that your unit is not defrosting. If it is not defrosting, it will ice up again.

You say this is 6 months old. If so, this might still be covered by warranty. Older units defrost timer was just a clockwork motor and a switch, typically a 10 to 12 hour time cycle, and was relatively easy to replace if you were even just slightly useful with tools and weren't afraid of electrical stuff. The newer ones (probably yours) have a circuit board 'defrost control circuit' which not only is more expensive than the old clockwork timers, but often is located in obscure locations.

Even if packed, there still should be enough air circulation to allow it to function if it is defrosting properly (unless you really go to the extreme freezer packing school), but with no defrost, it will ice up even if loosely packed. Heavy packing just will accelerate the icing.

Watch this unit closely and if it ices up again you might want to have a talk with the warranty repair people, or if you are a do-it-yourselfer, your appliance repair parts place and googlebing a how-to video.. (especially if you never see any condensate in your drip tray..)

(Voice of experience ;-)

That’s what I’m going to do, now that it seems to be ok and I’ve disassembled it, I’ll just watch the vents to see if they seem to be frosting up.

Didn’t see any parts inside that would be particularly hard to replace. But I do get a bit nervous working around cooling coils, the slightest breach and it’s junk!