Posted on 10/14/2013 9:59:02 AM PDT by Lazamataz
Of course, I do not own an AR-15, but I may consider one in the future -- provided they are legal, naturally!
But I like to prepare for future purchases. The rifle I am considering has no carrying-handle and no iron sights. I'd like freeper input on what sort of scope I should consider: Reflex / Holo with or without Fixed Power, a Fixed Power illuminated, or a variable power? Brands, prices, suggestions, all are welcome. The rifle would be for close to medium range target shooting (0-300 yards), especially 'action shooting' competitions. Price must be under or at 500. Would also be okay with something that worked 0-600 yds.
>>I don’t really want a rifle other than the one I have my eyes on. It will be months or years before I get it, but I want this one particular rifle.<<
Buy the rifle. Shoot at least 200 rounds through it then put a scope on it if you determine it is all that you expected it to be. If not buy another rifle and start over.
For dense brush, a low power scope works well. For open spaces, many people prefer the variable 3-9 power (or greater) optic. A rule of thumb to remember: the field of view (observable area) gets smaller as magnification increases.
A good scope should have: 1) coated optics, 2) quality optical glass, 3) a reticle that can be seen in low light conditions (illuminated ones are a plus), 4) windage and elevation knobs actually move with each click and don't “hang up” when adjustments are made, 5) be nitrogen filled so that the interior will not fog on the inside when subjected to large changes in temperature, and 6) the point of impact does not shift when changing magnification on variable scopes. All things consudered, you should figure on at least $200 for a quality scope. Buy a name brand.
Light gathering and light transmission are the primary factors in a quality day scope. A 30mm tube is better than the more common 25mm tube for light transmission. Likewise, quality optical glass is imperative. Coatings are applied to the glass to enhance light transmission. However, coatings are NOT a substitute for quality optical glass. The scope should be nitrogen filled to prevent internal fogging from large temperature changes.
To check a candidate scope optics, look through the wrong end of the scope against a light background. Imperfections in the optics will be more easily seen. The fewer imperfections, the better quality the scope (and higher price).
To check the reticle, cut two 1x1 inch V-cuts in a box. Rest the candidate scope in the V-cuts and look through the scope against a light background while noting the position of the reticle. Rotate the scope a full 360 degrees. The reticle should stay centered and have no observable movement about the center. Reject the scope if the reticle appears to move about the center.
One last thing are quality bases and rings. The best quality scope is nullified by poor quality bases and rings. Do not use the aluminum 8-shaped rings that allow the use of the scope or iron sights. Aluminum rings flex and do not hold zero. Do not use aluminum rings...period. The best rings are steel and are of tactical quality. They are easy to install and will hold zero under the most severe conditions.
When you install a scope, always make certain the vertical crosshair is vertical and horizontal is horizontal to the firearm. Put the rifle in a rest and check the top for horizontal level. Mount the scope loosely in the rings so it can be positioned for eye relief and horizontal level. Place a level on the elevation knob and make certain the scope is horizontal to the horizontal position of the receiver. The scope is now correctly aligned with the receiver. Adjust eye relief. Recheck horizontal levels. Tighten the screws of the scope rings.
Tools:
1. Scoped rifle. (This procedure also works with iron sights.)
2. Laser boresight (fits in chamber) in the rifle's caliber.
3. Wood dowel to remove a tight fitting laser boresight.
4. Zeroing target (http://www.mytargets.com/).
5. Ammunition for zeroing (if range is available).
6. Range distance to target: 75 to 83 feet.
Select and print the target from the website with the red and green dots centered above each other [1/2 inch grid]. Put the target in the target support so the green dot is down and the red dot is up.
Sighting is done from a bench some 75 to 83 feet away from the target.
Turn on and insert the laser boresight in the rifle chamber.
Sight-in by putting the red laser got in the center of the green dot. Move the scope crosshairs until they are in the center of the red dot.
Remove and turn off the laser boresight.
Confirm boresight zero with five shots.
Go to 100 yards and fire to confirm your zero using a zeroing target like the 100 yard big game target.
The firearm I am considering is Bushmaster, .223/5.56, the purpose is action-shooting competitions (with moving targets at 0-300 yards).
Wonderful instructions. I shall employ them if I ever decide to buy the rifle. :)
I’m looking at an Aimpoint for about 400....
Never mind. You are looking to hit targets farther out than what I was thinking.
I plan to put out the sun.
As far as the Savage Model 10FP is concerned, I got mine new in the box from a guy at our local gun show. He'd been trying to sell it to get some money and I saved about 1/3 of the MSRP (including taxes).
I'd heard a lot of good things about the Model 10 as far as accuracy went. I was pleasantly surprised by this rifle's accuracy. The synthetic stock on the rifle really helped by eliminating any zero shifts caused by the gain or loss of moisture common to a wooden stock. The stock was molded to the receiver and recoil lug and that bedded the action securely. Free floating the barrel in the stock eliminated any bad harmonics that might cause a rifle to throw shots. The barrel is heavy enough that the point of impact does not shift as it goes from cold (1st shot) to warm (succeeding shots).
Remember to lead that baby. And according to the Climate Change guys we will still be okay because the sun doesn't affect the weather.
Recommend the following
A 10 power fixed scope with canted back up iron sights aka BUIS’s
This is traditional 3 gun match setup that allows you to cant the weapon and use iron sights that ride at the two o’clock position yer when “canted” you can use it on minute of torso CQB targets and bring the scope back to top dead center to make the stop / head shot at 300....
That is how my duty gun is set up for work as well as my own house / truck gun.
Very basic, very durable and you will find with good skills and equipment you can make hits on a 18 inch brisket / torso easily at 800 meters.
My opinion, what I’ve used for about last 18 years.....works well.
The guy in this video uses a 1-5X optic yet in my arena I like my 10X fixed power Optic. I use a Mk 4 M3 Leupold yet there are cheaper 10 power scopes, quality, rugged scopes out there.
Wish you well....
I haven't seen it mentioned on here yet, but you may want to look into the Burris AR-332. From skimming the thread, it sounds pretty much like what you're looking for. I own one and the workmanship is excellent. I did have one issue when I first bought it, and I over-torqued and snapped a bolt. Customer service sent me two replacements at no charge. I've had it several years, and have upgraded it with both the killflash and the QDR quick-detachable mount. I've been nothing but uber-satisfied with it.
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