Posted on 10/04/2013 10:21:16 AM PDT by Signalman
Without trying to toot my own horn, I know a lot about cars. I understand how most items on a car function and how they fail. I know the difference between a 6 ply tire and a bias-ply tire; I can talk about the pros and cons of direct injection; I can argue in favor or against anti-lock braking systems, etc.
This knowledge frequently causes frustration when I take my vehicle in for basic services like an LOF (lube, oil, and filter), tire rotations, etc. and I’m “pitched” an unnecessary service item. While I know the service being pitched is a giant waste of money, the average consumer probably doesn’t know…and that makes me angry. Service professionals who recommend unnecessary services ought to have more respect for the consumer (and better ethics).
As a general rule, fluid flushes and/or replacements are unnecessary. Here’s a list of maintenance items that involve a fluid flush/replacement and guidance on whether or not to pay for each.
Power Steering Fluid Flush – These are rarely – if ever – necessary. Power steering fluid will become dirty and smelly over time, but it will remain functional for the life of most vehicles. Unless your vehicle manufacturer recommends changing this fluid (and very few of them do), or your power steering system is giving you trouble, there’s simply no reason to bother with a power steering fluid flush.
Brake Fluid Flush – Brake fluid is hydrophillic, which means it sucks up water like a thirsty camel. Brake fluid can even pull water out of the humidity in the air. As brake fluid sucks up moisture, it loses effectiveness. If it absorbs enough water, brake fluid can even “boil over” during normal use.
In light of brake fluid’s sensitivity to water, automakers go to great lengths to ensure your brake system is completely and totally sealed. Therefore, the average vehicle never needs replacement brake fluid. Unless you’re doing a LOT of heavy braking (racing, towing a heavy trailer on a regular basis, etc.), your brake fluid will last as long as the system remains sealed. It’s almost always unnecessary to flush brake fluid.
Coolant Flush – Many vehicles use long-life engine coolant, which has a typical life expectancy of 150k miles. Some still use “conventional” coolant, which only has a 30k mile life expectancy.
To determine if your car needs coolant flushes every 30k miles or every 150k miles, check your vehicle manufacturer’s scheduled maintenance booklet. Follow the interval suggested – no more and no less.
Automatic Transmission Service/Flush – Last but not least, automatic transmission services are often completely unnecessary. Most new vehicles use synthetic transmission fluid that can last the lifetime of the vehicle – meaning that you’ll never, ever, EVER have to change it. Just check your vehicle’s maintenance booklet…if you don’t see a recommended transmission service interval, than your transmission doesn’t need service.
NOTE: Another clue that your transmission doesn’t need service? There’s no transmission fluid dipstick under the hood. Most automatic transmissions with lifetime fluid are “sealed,” meaning there’s no way to change the fluid.
When I’m told by my local shop that my transmission needs flushed, and I reply that the transmission uses a lifetime fluid, the person I’m talking to will often tell me that replacing my transmission fluid “couldn’t hurt.” This is completely and totally incorrect. Replacing the fluid on a transmission that doesn’t require fluid replacement is a delicate procedure. If it’s done incorrectly, damage is likely.
If you take nothing else from this article, remember this: Unnecessary transmission service can cause transmission failure.
Beware “Power” Flushes – For a time, “power” fluid flushes were popular. The thinking was that forcing fluid through your vehicle’s transmission, cooling system, etc. would be more beneficial than simply draining and replacing fluid.
Unfortunately, it took a while for auto service professionals to recognize that “power” flushes often do more harm than good. Power fluid flushes have caused leaks in cooling, steering, and braking systems, and they’ve ruined thousands of automatic transmissions.
If your local shop wants to “power flush” something, find another place to get your service done. Power flushing is unnecessary, and in many cases it can cause a failure.
If you are using standard oil, a turbo can indeed break it down faster - LOTS of heat...
But I have a Saturn Sky Redline, and use synthetic. I get 9,000 to 10,000 miles per oil change. Saturn says you MUST use synthetic with the turbo, but says not to change it until the on-board computer tells you to. (Despite the service manager of the long-closed dealership telling me I should change it at 3,000 anyway. He would if it were his, he said...)
bookmark
Except, perhaps, on 1st generation Saab 900s...
If you're using your transmission to slow down instead of the brakes you'll save money on brake jobs but at the expense of accelerated clutch wear.
But, if you know how to use a clutch properly, you can use the transmission to slow down without causing excessive wear on the clutch. In fact, with some knowledge of your gear ratios, a bit of skill, and some practice, it's pretty easy to downshift without disengaging the clutch - and that causes virtually no wear.
Awright...my two cents on this...
If you’ve changed the ATF regularly on your vehicle throughout it’s life, you should probably continue to do that.
If you haven’t, what happens is, the ATF tends to lose some of its “lubricity”, i.e., ability to prevent friction. As friction wears parts, it is possible to get some slippage in the transmission, except for one thing: the wear causes small particles of metal in the transmission. These particles actually provide friction for the various parts to engage properly. If you change/flush the trans, you no longer have those particles, and the trans can slip. Not only that, the newer fluid can dislodge deposits and cause them to lodge in places where they can cause problems.
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/transslip.html
http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2000-03-12/travel/0003120058_1_transmission-fluid-atf-oxidation
As for synthetic motor oil, it is absolutely essential in a turbocharged car to prevent “coking” of the oil inside the turbocharger when you turn the car off. Temps inside the turbo, especially if it is not water-cooled, can get high enough to cause conventional oil to break down and lose its viscosity, and create deposits in the turbocharger itself. This can lead to turbocharger failure. Synthetic oil is more resistant to coking, and therefore, is better for the longevity of your turbocharger.
http://www.custom-car.us/turbo/lubrication.aspx
“And NEVER get a BLACK car because you will have to wash it constantly and it’s about 10 degrees hotter on the inside on hot days than a white car is.”
I use ICE spray wax and ICE detailer on my black on black car that keeps it shinny for weeks at a time. And I have had several different colored cars I over the years and have noticed that they all seemed equally hot in the summertime . . . so I turn on the AC.
And check the compression in the hub caps.
Any time I’ve had a car with a manual transmission, I’ve used engine braking to help slow the car. If it put more wear on the clutch, it wasn’t enough that I noticed; in fact I got over 145,000 miles on one of the clutches in my current car.
I can’t imagine why the dealership would say you need to bring in your car every 3,000 miles for an oil change. :)
I use dino juice in my ‘91 Miata (normally aspirated, of course) and change it every 5,000, and I sometimes wonder if even that might be a bit much. OTOH, the car is still on its original engine and still running pretty well at 296,000 miles.
How do we do a “power flush” of Congress?
Had an MGB Lucas
Once I actually ran the car 500 feet to get out of traffic, on the battery. It smoked some terrible.
Had to air out the car. The battery was behind the drivers seat.
The only good advice in this story is to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation in the owner’s manual. He’s dead wrong about brake fluid. Water actually migrates through the rubber hoses at each wheel. The brake fluid in the wheel cylinders gains about 1 percent per year water. This causes corrosion and significantly lowers the boiling point. Pure DOT3 brake fluid boils at about 400 degrees F. A few percent water drops that to near 212. You can loose braking on mountain grades with that.
I went 184k on a manual Honda with no appreciable clutch wear before it was totaled in an accident. They don’t teach you rev matching and heel-toe in HS, it’s up to you.
Has anyone ever figured out how to fix the loose nut behind the wheel problem that all makes of autos seem to have?
Beat me to it.
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