[KTM rider]

I cut about five cords a season for fuel and I would not use an electric sharpener so I cant help you. Electric sharpeners waste a lot of chain. you also need to file down the guides as you go. If you do not overheat and quench a chain it will sharpen quite easily, it will stay sharp a long time if you dont hit the ground and take extra effort to knock off dirt filled bark , theres a lot of dirt in some tree bark next to roads especially

[KTM rider]

I cut about five cords a season for fuel and I would not use an electric sharpener so I cant help you. Electric sharpeners waste a lot of chain. you also need to file down the guides as you go. If you do not overheat and quench a chain it will sharpen quite easily, it will stay sharp a long time if you dont hit the ground and take extra effort to knock off dirt filled bark , theres a lot of dirt in some tree bark next to roads especially

[Bobalu]

I always hated using a chainsaw. I usually just sharpened mine by hand with a file...seemed to work OK.

I saw a cheap sharpener at Harbor Freight a while back...not sure how good it was.

[Thomas Truxtun]

Filing by hand may seem tedious, but it is effective. You can use an angle guide at first, but as you practice you will find it uncommonly easy. I heat with wood year round and always keep spare chains at the ready. The advice about dirt is spot on. Don’t be afraid of hand sharpening, you’ll grow to enjoy it. I do use a workbench clamp to hold the blade and chainsaw steady. Good luck!

[count-your-change]

Hand sharpen, practice, and keep the chain well oiled and clean.

[South40]

A small round file works just fine for me.

[golux]

Harbor Freight has a number of them on sale now.

[TChad]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PTXj1VIlbc

[Errant]

I've used a hand file and guide for years and I had a chainsaw timber mill. Both of my saws are Stihl, but it seems these new Stihl chainsaw files are only good for a few uses. At 3 files for about $5, I sure they're Chinese, and what's worse, the new Stihl chain doesn't hold up as well either, IMO.

So I went looking for something better to sharpen my chainsaw with. Of all the options, this is the fastest, easiest and wastes no more metal than a file would:

You can get them from your Stihl dealer or online. They're about $6 for three and last about 4 - 5 uses each. I use them with my dremel tools (both 110 and battery pack units) to quickly sharper the chains on both saws. My biggest is a Stihl 660 with a 28" bar. Stihl makes a battery operated grinder for use with these but a dremel works well and most handymen already own one.

A tip is to sharpen both left and right cutters from the same side (right side) of the bar. Otherwise the grinder will try to rise up out of the cutter on the left side, due to rotation of the tool.

Keep proper angles when grinding. It's not hard with a little practice. If you get off, use the file and file-guide to correct the angles. Stihl chain has the proper angle laser etched into each cutter.

Good luck and stay safe! :)

[21twelve]

http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/news/2961385/posts?page=1

Here’s a FR thread from the other day. There MAY be some tips from Estibaliz Carranza on how to sharpen a chain saw.

[oldenuff2no]

Wow. I'm a logger and I see some things in here that are spot on and some that made me laugh. A chainsaw has bar and a chain not a “blade”.
A small round file????? Different chains take different files. A great way to screw up a good chain is to file it with the wrong size of file.
I do hand file but also have several extra chains ready to go at all times. Find a good saw shop and have them sharpen your chains ever fourth or fifth time you need them sharpened. If they grind the chain correctly it will not take that much off of it and it will fix any mistakes you have made with a file.
Keep the chain out of the dirt and rocks period. But know that if you use a saw in the real world all day that you will “rock” the chain now and then. Don't fight a dull chain. Either file it or change it right off the bat when you mess it up or realize it is dull.
The last thing I will say is to use a saw big enough to get the job done. Take care of the saws by keeping them clean, air filters as well as the bar and case, and the chains sharp. Don't be afraid to grease what needs it. Husky and the other saw, just kidding about the white one, (stihl) both make homeowner saws and pro saws. You get what you pay for. I like high speed husqvarna pro saws, the XP series. I like blondes too.

[wrench]

I am not a proessional tree guy like some here, but have used both a file and one of the expensive grinder type sharpeners on my chains. The power sharpeners will put a new edge on the cutters, and will correct a mis-sharpened chain that wanders as it cuts, but they do significantly shorten chain life.

A proper size round file and a flat file for the rakers is all I use now. Chains cut well and last a long time. Cutting downed trees quickly dulls the chains from dirt that gets caked on the bark, not to mention any ground contact with the chain.

[lowbridge]

I’m a city boy. Where I come from, the only thing we can use a chainsaw for is if you’re making a low budget horror movie or attending a family reunion with relatives you hate.

[trebb]

Joe down the street from me does a great job - if you’re ever in S. MS, look me up and I’ll introduce you to him.

[norwaypinesavage]

I have a $30 four inch vise from Harbor Freight. I'll first cut a good sized tree down and then cut the stump horizontally at work bench height. I bolt the vise to the stump with lag bolts.

I then clamp the chain saw by the bar in the vise and sharpen the chain while still on the saw. It only takes about two or three minutes to sharpen the chain. The proper sized file diameter is very important. It usually tells on the chain packaging what size file to get. I use up about one file per chain. I put an old garbage can over the vise if I plan to be in the same area for a while.

I've been doing this for about 40 years. I've only taken a chain to a shop once. That's when I got a new saw with hardened surfaces that could not be filed with a file.

[exit82]

BTTT. Bookmark for great info.

[buffaloguy]

I was told by a tree service guy to sharpen my chain lightly at every refill of gasoline. It really works and I use a Sears electric sharpener to do the job. Just plug it into the truck and go. It takes about minute.

It preserves the engine as it doesn’t have to run so hard. I would rather buy new chains than new engines.

I use a Stihl Farm Boss. Nothing better.

[woodbutcher1963]

I have tried multiple sharpening systems. As others have pointed out the best way to preserve the life of the chain is to sharpen them by hand. I have one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200308557_200308557?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Logging-_-Chain%20Saw%20Sharpeners%2C%20Maintenance%20%2B%20Repair-_-1976&ci_sku=1976&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CNuuwsSd4LMCFcKPPAodBzkAEw

I also have grinding wheel setups for my Dremel. If you sharpen the blade by hand, clean the air filter, make sure the bar oil is filled and always mix FRESH gas you should never have many problems.

Do you have an air compressor to clean out around the clutch and automatic oiler and air filter? This is very important in maintaining your saw. If the oiler gets plugged, the blade will bind. It can also effect the blade brake from engaging.

[pallis]

Check out Bailey’s for files and guides. They have some of the best prices. The only time I use a grinder is when the chain is too dinged up to work it out by hand. Even then, I usually finish it out by hand to get a good, even edge on both sides.

[OKSooner]

I just keep several chains handy and take them to the shop when most of them get dull and they get sharpened by someone who frankly does it better than I could.

Speaking only for myself, mind you.