Posted on 06/11/2012 8:27:39 AM PDT by Lowell1775
I have a Williams peep sight on the 94. Since I had the lens implant in my right eye I can get a clearer sight picture than was possible for the last 20 years. I have a scope on my 10-22, but I won’t be squirrel hunting with the 30-30.
I bought casting equipment that I haven’t used yet because the local gunshop that supplied lead went under. Do you have a favorite online source for lead?
# 8 shot shotgun shells ... melt the shot, pour the slugs, re insert into the emptied wad and crimp.
Well, that’s easy enough. Thanks for the idea.
CDNN has original walnut(uncheckered) for your .243. $70 if memory serves. Got the same rifle years ago. Tip was warping and making hard contact on the left side of the barrel. Sanded it out to assure the rifle was accurate, but buttpad had issues, so I replaced it. Wonderful dark walnut, as opposed to the see-it-for-a-mile blonde original.
BTW, if you have drill bits and blocks of hardwood, some pretty good slug molds are possible. I’ve been experimenting with various slugs and shot and loads for shells to allow expanding shotgun tube mag capacity. I’ve found that the minimum length for Mossberg and Mav 88 pumps is 2 1/8 inch, to cycle properly. For semi autos with full length lifters, a 2 inch shell will function quite well and even some with 1 3/4 inch if the powder loading and wad packing is done right. I use a roll crimping closure method unless just reloading spent shot shells to their previous standard lengths.
My “hard times” rifle is an Ishapore Enfield . 7.62 NATO. Cost for a hand select was $110. I put it in a synthetic stock that cost $65 if I remember right.
I had a gunsmith mount a 4 power Simmons on it. Total cost was under $250. I put the difference in to loads of ammo. I can ring an 8” cast iron skillet at 350 yards every time.
Wish I’d bought a dozen of those things.
Interesting idea. Do you do treat the wood before you pour your lead?
About a year ago I saw a dealer at a Memphis gunshow selling hulls for small shells like you described. I’ve know others to make their own so they could get more shells in the tube but that was the only time I’ve ever seen hulls.
Have you seen any of Dave Canterbury’s Longhunter videos discussing methods for reloading shells in the field?
The stock is light colored.
I’m wondering if I could just add a bit of stain...
ammo has local flavor.
in AK, a ton of people like the 35 Whelen.
The crucial point is the type of powder and how much. You pretty much use a 209 primer for all the powders because you want a slow burn powder and a fast or hot primer.
I use Hodgdon HS6 powder with CCI 209 primers. I use an overshot card and roll crimp the shells to 2 inches holding 12 #2 buckshot or a slug for my guns.
I test them in a TriStar 12 gauge semi auto and a Mav 88 12 ga pump, and an Akkar 20 sem and a Mav 88 20 gauge pump. The TriStar came with a fake mag extension which I 'reworked' to allow greater capacity. Because of the arthritis in my right wrist (too much tennis in my younger years) I have pistol grip stocks. I also rig an industrial strength velcro strip on the receivers to carry five, six, or seven extra rounds for relaoding, and a similar rig for the stocks. As they say in combat shotgun, if you're not shootin' you better be reloadin'. Hobby stuf don'tchaknow.
The crucial point is the type of powder and how much. You pretty much use a 209 primer for all the powders because you want a slow burn powder and a fast or hot primer.
I use Hodgdon HS6 powder with CCI 209 primers. I use an overshot card and roll crimp the shells to 2 inches holding 12 #2 buckshot or a slug for my guns.
I test them in a TriStar 12 gauge semi auto and a Mav 88 12 ga pump, and an Akkar 20 sem and a Mav 88 20 gauge pump. The TriStar came with a fake mag extension which I 'reworked' to allow greater capacity. Because of the arthritis in my right wrist (too much tennis in my younger years) I have pistol grip stocks. I also rig an industrial strength velcro strip and loops from a bandolier on the receivers to carry five, six, or seven extra rounds for reloading, and a similar rig for the stocks. As they say in combat shotgun, if you're not shootin' you better be reloadin'. Hobby stuff don'tchaknow.
Here in Central Kentucky, with the hilly terrain and thick underbrush, you are lucky to see a target at more than 50-100 yards. As such, the most popular deer rifles in this area are 30-30’s and SKS’s.
Probably not wise to discuss what plans you’ve made for trouble in public.
Have never bought lead alloys online. For smokeless powder loading I use nothing but clip on wheel weights. (the stick on ones are almost pure lead and great for black powder) Air dropped boolits from WW are around 10-12 Brinell hardness, if water dropped they run up to 14-16 BH. when oven tempered and water quenched, run 18-20 BH.
Have you tried local tire shops fir WW? I understand they are selling at about 15-20 bucks for a five gallon bucket of them. Junk yard and recycling centers are another source.
I still have around 6 five gallon buckets of WW and several hundred pounds of ingots cast up.
Interesting, I think I saw one of those at Bass Pro a couple of weeks ago, interesting piece, might be good for a few laughs.
Mine was lacquered. If yours is bare wood it’s in serious danger of warping. The fit of the new one is better. I think it was an uncheckered Supergrade stock when the Mdl 70 went away.
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