Posted on 09/24/2011 8:27:51 PM PDT by nickcarraway
"Venison is a misunderstood meat," said Chef Jason Helfer of Peasant Village Restaurant in San Angelo. "It's earned a bad rap."
People are often scared of venison, but they shouldn't be.
It's a lean, flavorful meat that can be cooked in a variety of ways depending on the cut. Venison can be cooked like filet mignon or covered in a crust of herbs, ground and turned into sausage or Shepherd's Pie with Guinness, Helfer said.
"Venison shouldn't taste like chicken," Helfer said. "It has its own unique flavor."
Liz Matthews, director of catering for Peasant Village, agrees.
A sixth-generation rancher and farmer, she describes herself as "rancher by day, caterer by night."
"I don't know why so many locals shy away from venison ," she said, adding that hunting is part of Texas and for a long time people lived on deer and other game they hunted.
In the Don Strange of Texas cookbook there is a story about the famed caterer choosing to cook venison for the centennial celebration of the YO Ranch because it was "representative of the Texas frontier." He felt venison, abundant in early Texas, provided meat for many settlers and was the natural choice.
"It's a beautiful meat," Matthews said.
She and her husband JR, both graduates of the Culinary Institute of America, have served plenty of venison at gourmet dinners and fancy parties, including weddings.
Matthews, who looks after her family's 100-year-old ranch and leases portions out to ranchers, said there is a difference between commercial venison (served in restaurants) and hunted venison. The commercial meat is milder than the wild version.
So do you just have to accept the gaminess of venison? Not necessarily.
There are many factors — such as age of the deer, how the deer is hunted and processed — that can affect the flavor of venison, Terry Thompson-Anderson, author of several cookbooks focused on Texas, said.
"Bow hunting is the best," Thompson-Anderson said. "It doesn't tie up the muscles as much and so there is less gamy flavor."
In her cookbook, Texas on a Plate, Terry writes that people who complain of the flavor maybe eating deer killed in a stressed breeding season or not cold-hung to relax and tenderize the meat.
Even though venison is a naturally lean meat, Thompson-Anderson stresses that all animal fat should be removed before cooking because that also contributes to the strong flavor.
Chef Helfer advises using two different knives when dressing deer.
"If the natural oils from the skin of the animal gets onto the meat then the flavor will be affected," he warned.
What is the best cut of venison?
Chef Helfer: Anything. Depends on how you cook it.
Liz Matthews: The small "lolli" chops and the tenderloin or backstrap.
"Many restaurateurs will stay away from the rest of the deer," she said. "I love it! Ground up it can make great chili or sausage. It's relatively inexpensive and fits my farm-to-table preference."
Terry Thompson-Anderson: Backstrap.
To marinate or not to marinate?
Chef Helfer: You could soak it in buttermilk to add flavor and tenderize the meat, but it's not necessary.
Liz Matthews: Some people marinate venison in Italian dressing or milk, but I don't. Ever.
Terry Thompson-Anderson: Milk is a good tenderizer. Pound it first, and then soak in milk overnight.
How long should you cook venison?
Chef Helfer: Venison is not meant to be cooked very long, unless you're working with the hindquarters.
Liz Matthews: The key is to not overcook it. The meat should still have a red or pink center.
Terry Thompson-Anderson: In Texas on the Plate, she shares venison should be medium done, or closer to medium-rare for the optimum taste. Generally, the longer the meat is cooked, the stronger the flavor. She goes on to write: "It's a sacrilege to cook the backstrap past medium-rare — you lose the tender texture, and the delicate taste turns more intensely wild."
Grilled Medallions of Venison with Ancho Chili & Honey Sauce
From Terry Thompson-Anderson's "Texas on the Plate."
Ingredients
Venison:
1 large whole venison backstrap, trimmed of all silver skin
— Red Meat Dip and Baste, see recipe below
— Crushed black pepper
— Ancho Chili and Honey Sauce, see recipe below
Red Meat Dip and Baste:
Makes 1 quart.
8 ounces firmly packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon fine grind black pepper
3 tablespoons French's yellow mustard
1 teaspoon Tabasco
1 teaspoon celery salt
10 ounces soy sauce
5 ounces Worcestershire sauce
5 ounces A-1 Sauce
5 ounces Heinz 57 Sauce
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Ancho Chili and Honey Sauce:
7 whole cumin seeds
1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 large dried ancho chilies, seeds and veins removed
1 small onion, chopped
3 large garlic cloves, minced
6 Roma tomatoes, cut into wedges
4 cups rich chicken stock
6 whole cilantro sprigs
¼ cup clover honey
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice— Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Directions
1 Prepare the Red Meat Dip and Baste. Combine the first 8 ingredients in a medium-sized, non-aluminum bowl. Cream the ingredients together with a large spoon until the mixture is smooth and very well blended. Add remaining ingredients, one at a time, whisking vigorously after each addition. Transfer to storage container and refrigerate until ready to use.
2 Prepare the Ancho Chili and Honey Sauce. Combine the cumin and coriander seeds in a small skillet. Toss over medium-high heat to toast, about 2-3 minutes, or until a strong aroma begins to come from the pan. Do not burn the seeds! Remove from skillet and set aside.
3 Heat the canola oil in a heavy 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the ancho chilies, onions, garlic and tomatoes. Cook, stirring often, until chilies are very soft and all vegetables are wilted, about 25 minutes.
4 Add the chicken stock and reserved toasted seeds. Cook for 30 minutes, reducing the liquid slightly.
5 Remove from heat and add the cilantro sprigs; purée in blender. Pass the purée through a fine strainer into a clean saucepan, stirring with back of a spoon to extract all liquid from the strainer.
6 Stir the honey and lime juice into the sauce. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Simmer gently for 20 to 30 minutes to make a smooth, medium-thick sauce. Keep warm while grilling the venison.
7 Preheat gas chargrill or prepare charcoal fire in your favorite pit. Baste the backstrap liberally with the Red Meat Dip and Baste, then season heavily with the cracked black pepper.
8 Grill the meat to medium-rare, about 135 degrees using an instant-read meat thermometer. Turn often to form a seared crust, basting often with the Red Meat Dip and Baste.
9 Remove the backstrap to a carving board and cover loosely with foil. Allow the meat to "rest" for 10 minutes.
10 Serves 4. To serve, slice the meat into round medallions about ½-inch thick. Spoon a portion of the sauce onto each serving plate. Fan 3-4 slices of the venison out on the sauce and serve hot.
Venison and Pork Crepe with Hunter's Sauce
From Don Strange of Texas: His Life & Recipes.
Ingredients
1 pound venison backstrap, cut into julienne strips about 2" long
1 pound trimmed pork tenderloin, cut similar
cup rice wine or sake
cup soy sauce
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons baking soda
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
½ cup cornstarch
Crepe Filling:
¼ cup olive oil
1¼ cup sliced water chestnuts, drained
1 pound sliced mushrooms
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups beef broth
6 green onions and tops, sliced into 1" pieces
18 prepared crepes
— Minced parsley as garnish
Hunter's Sauce:
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, diced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon Asian chili-garlic sauce
3 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 cups beef broth
¼ cup red currant jelly
cup dry Madeira
cup sour cream
— Kosher salt and fresh black pepper to taste
Directions
1 Place the venison and pork into a large zip-lock bag. Whisk together rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, baking soda, sesame oil and cornstarch and pour into the bag. Seal the bag and turn several times to coat the meat. Place the bag on its side in a baking dish and refrigerate overnight.
2 Prepare the Hunter's Sauce. Melt butter in a heavy-bottomed 12" skillet over medium heat. When the butter is foaming, add in shallots and cook until wilted and transparent. Stir in the tomato paste and chili-garlic sauce, cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is dark and thick. Add flour all at once and incorporate completely.
3 Add the beef broth and bring the sauce to boil, to thicken. Add the jelly and stir to melt. Add the Madeira and simmer for 10 minutes.
4 Remove from heat and whisk in sour cream. Season with salt and pepper and keep hot.
5 Prepare the filling. Drain the meat and discard the marinade.
6 Heat oil in a 14"-skillet over medium-high heat.
7 When the oil is hot, add the meat, stir often, until browned and crisp, about 10 minutes.
8 Lower heat to medium, and add water chestnuts, mushrooms and garlic. Saute until all liquid has evaporated, about 7 to 8 minutes.
9 Add the beef broth and cook, stirring occasionally, until broth is reduced to almost a glaze (about 15 minutes).
10 Stir in the green onions and remove from heat.
11 Place a portion of the meat mixture at the center of each crepe and fold the sides over to cover the filling. Place desired number of crepes on each serving platter, seam sides down. Spoon a portion of the Hunter's Sauce over each and garnish with parsley.
Would you be willing to share said recipe? Please? Pretty Please? With sugar?
Had the season’s first fresh kill tenderloin a week ago today (opening day for bow in WI). We marinade in red wine, vinegar, or whatever is handy. Just for a couple hours. Then light grilling on each side and eat away. Perfect start to the season.
Actually, I did not shoot it. My bro-in-law shot it here. We have some land and plenty of deer/turkey. We built a butcher room in the lower part of one of the barns.
I’m anxious to try the cold brine. Never done that.
Premium beef restaurants like the Golden Ox in Kansas City used to do this. Maybe still ?
I never heard of anyone trying a deer this way.
I have heard of that as well. I haven’t tried it as I don’t have the facilities.
An aside: I have aged dove, field to fridge( I leave them whole) in a walmart bag for a few days. They clean easy. Pull the breast and chuck the rest ( compost).
For the mince meat pie? I’d would love to. BUT. I’m a mere 50 years old. You think they would let a boy, like me, near it???
Yes Sir!
Oh, come on! At least PM me! I’ll send you a check and a SASE! Name your price.
They are what they eat. If they have a lot of good feed they will taste good but if they are only eating juniper berries then they taste horrid.
The advantage of leaving the hair on is to keep the meat from drying.
My son got a bull elk a couple of years ago and we let him hang for 21 days.
But we are talking in the 35-40 degree range.
After gutting, if there is snow, pack in the snow. If it is warmer, no snow, get some ice in there. The key to good aging is cooling the meat as quickly as possible after death. Big difference between letting it age and letting it rot.
Which brings up the point we were taught to never take any game in a spot that you couldn’t properly take care of it. We hunt to EAT.
Another thing I saw upthread about hair on the meat. My dad taught and stresses cleanliness with any kill. To the point that if you have to drag the animal for any distance, especially in no snow conditions, SEW HIM BACK UP. And when skinning, remove loose hair as you go. You always miss a few, but as clean as possible before you EVER start any butchering is by far the best.
Dang, now I’m hungry...
I’m really not kidding. I don’t have it. My dad has it. Ever met my dad? He isn’t kidding either.
M-m-m-m-m-m-m. Bambi.
Don’t disregard juniper berries! Juniper berries can make a meal, as long as you use them sparingly, and I mean sparingly.
That was me about the hair, the brine will take care of it.
The icewater brine is all we have here in the South. It works superbly/pure excellence.
Bummer.
So, maybe it’s up to me and the daughter to kill it and drag it home? LOL!
The tools needed are simple, a hacksaw (splurge and buy a new blade) and a butcher knife to remove workable size pieces from the carcase. A six inch (or so) knife and cutting board for each adult. Glass and/or ceramic bowls for the meat until it is wrapped, butcher's wrap, tape and a marking pen so you know what you are pulling out of the freezer. When we are finished, all of the bone and virtually all of the connective tissue and tallow has been removed and the meat will be as mild as it can be given the age and diet of the critter it came.
We never grind venison. Any small pieces are put in a bowl to be cut into half inch cubes and packaged in pound packs. You can make chili or venison stroganoff or add taco seasonings and get a result far better than any ground meat.
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