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Venison . . . It Has a Good Taste But a Bad Rap
San Angelo Standard Times ^ | September 24, 2011 | Rashda Khan

Posted on 09/24/2011 8:27:51 PM PDT by nickcarraway

"Venison is a misunderstood meat," said Chef Jason Helfer of Peasant Village Restaurant in San Angelo. "It's earned a bad rap."

People are often scared of venison, but they shouldn't be.

It's a lean, flavorful meat that can be cooked in a variety of ways depending on the cut. Venison can be cooked like filet mignon or covered in a crust of herbs, ground and turned into sausage or Shepherd's Pie with Guinness, Helfer said.

"Venison shouldn't taste like chicken," Helfer said. "It has its own unique flavor."

Liz Matthews, director of catering for Peasant Village, agrees.

A sixth-generation rancher and farmer, she describes herself as "rancher by day, caterer by night."

"I don't know why so many locals shy away from venison ," she said, adding that hunting is part of Texas and for a long time people lived on deer and other game they hunted.

In the Don Strange of Texas cookbook there is a story about the famed caterer choosing to cook venison for the centennial celebration of the YO Ranch because it was "representative of the Texas frontier." He felt venison, abundant in early Texas, provided meat for many settlers and was the natural choice.

"It's a beautiful meat," Matthews said.

She and her husband JR, both graduates of the Culinary Institute of America, have served plenty of venison at gourmet dinners and fancy parties, including weddings.

Matthews, who looks after her family's 100-year-old ranch and leases portions out to ranchers, said there is a difference between commercial venison (served in restaurants) and hunted venison. The commercial meat is milder than the wild version.

So do you just have to accept the gaminess of venison? Not necessarily.

There are many factors — such as age of the deer, how the deer is hunted and processed — that can affect the flavor of venison, Terry Thompson-Anderson, author of several cookbooks focused on Texas, said.

"Bow hunting is the best," Thompson-Anderson said. "It doesn't tie up the muscles as much and so there is less gamy flavor."

In her cookbook, Texas on a Plate, Terry writes that people who complain of the flavor maybe eating deer killed in a stressed breeding season or not cold-hung to relax and tenderize the meat.

Even though venison is a naturally lean meat, Thompson-Anderson stresses that all animal fat should be removed before cooking because that also contributes to the strong flavor.

Chef Helfer advises using two different knives when dressing deer.

"If the natural oils from the skin of the animal gets onto the meat then the flavor will be affected," he warned.

What is the best cut of venison?

Chef Helfer: Anything. Depends on how you cook it.

Liz Matthews: The small "lolli" chops and the tenderloin or backstrap.

"Many restaurateurs will stay away from the rest of the deer," she said. "I love it! Ground up it can make great chili or sausage. It's relatively inexpensive and fits my farm-to-table preference."

Terry Thompson-Anderson: Backstrap.

To marinate or not to marinate?

Chef Helfer: You could soak it in buttermilk to add flavor and tenderize the meat, but it's not necessary.

Liz Matthews: Some people marinate venison in Italian dressing or milk, but I don't. Ever.

Terry Thompson-Anderson: Milk is a good tenderizer. Pound it first, and then soak in milk overnight.

How long should you cook venison?

Chef Helfer: Venison is not meant to be cooked very long, unless you're working with the hindquarters.

Liz Matthews: The key is to not overcook it. The meat should still have a red or pink center.

Terry Thompson-Anderson: In Texas on the Plate, she shares venison should be medium done, or closer to medium-rare for the optimum taste. Generally, the longer the meat is cooked, the stronger the flavor. She goes on to write: "It's a sacrilege to cook the backstrap past medium-rare — you lose the tender texture, and the delicate taste turns more intensely wild."

Grilled Medallions of Venison with Ancho Chili & Honey Sauce

From Terry Thompson-Anderson's "Texas on the Plate."

Ingredients

Venison:

1 large whole venison backstrap, trimmed of all silver skin

— Red Meat Dip and Baste, see recipe below

— Crushed black pepper

— Ancho Chili and Honey Sauce, see recipe below

Red Meat Dip and Baste:

Makes 1 quart.

8 ounces firmly packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon granulated garlic

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon fine grind black pepper

3 tablespoons French's yellow mustard

1 teaspoon Tabasco

1 teaspoon celery salt

10 ounces soy sauce

5 ounces Worcestershire sauce

5 ounces A-1 Sauce

5 ounces Heinz 57 Sauce

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Ancho Chili and Honey Sauce:

7 whole cumin seeds

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

2 tablespoons canola oil

4 large dried ancho chilies, seeds and veins removed

1 small onion, chopped

3 large garlic cloves, minced

6 Roma tomatoes, cut into wedges

4 cups rich chicken stock

6 whole cilantro sprigs

¼ cup clover honey

¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice— Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions

1 Prepare the Red Meat Dip and Baste. Combine the first 8 ingredients in a medium-sized, non-aluminum bowl. Cream the ingredients together with a large spoon until the mixture is smooth and very well blended. Add remaining ingredients, one at a time, whisking vigorously after each addition. Transfer to storage container and refrigerate until ready to use.

2 Prepare the Ancho Chili and Honey Sauce. Combine the cumin and coriander seeds in a small skillet. Toss over medium-high heat to toast, about 2-3 minutes, or until a strong aroma begins to come from the pan. Do not burn the seeds! Remove from skillet and set aside.

3 Heat the canola oil in a heavy 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the ancho chilies, onions, garlic and tomatoes. Cook, stirring often, until chilies are very soft and all vegetables are wilted, about 25 minutes.

4 Add the chicken stock and reserved toasted seeds. Cook for 30 minutes, reducing the liquid slightly.

5 Remove from heat and add the cilantro sprigs; purée in blender. Pass the purée through a fine strainer into a clean saucepan, stirring with back of a spoon to extract all liquid from the strainer.

6 Stir the honey and lime juice into the sauce. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Simmer gently for 20 to 30 minutes to make a smooth, medium-thick sauce. Keep warm while grilling the venison.

7 Preheat gas chargrill or prepare charcoal fire in your favorite pit. Baste the backstrap liberally with the Red Meat Dip and Baste, then season heavily with the cracked black pepper.

8 Grill the meat to medium-rare, about 135 degrees using an instant-read meat thermometer. Turn often to form a seared crust, basting often with the Red Meat Dip and Baste.

9 Remove the backstrap to a carving board and cover loosely with foil. Allow the meat to "rest" for 10 minutes.

10 Serves 4. To serve, slice the meat into round medallions about ½-inch thick. Spoon a portion of the sauce onto each serving plate. Fan 3-4 slices of the venison out on the sauce and serve hot.

Venison and Pork Crepe with Hunter's Sauce

From Don Strange of Texas: His Life & Recipes.

Ingredients

1 pound venison backstrap, cut into julienne strips about 2" long

1 pound trimmed pork tenderloin, cut similar

cup rice wine or sake

cup soy sauce

¼ cup sugar

2 tablespoons baking soda

2 teaspoons dark sesame oil

½ cup cornstarch

Crepe Filling:

¼ cup olive oil

1¼ cup sliced water chestnuts, drained

1 pound sliced mushrooms

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 cups beef broth

6 green onions and tops, sliced into 1" pieces

18 prepared crepes

— Minced parsley as garnish

Hunter's Sauce:

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 shallots, diced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon Asian chili-garlic sauce

3 tablespoon all-purpose flour

2 cups beef broth

¼ cup red currant jelly

cup dry Madeira

cup sour cream

— Kosher salt and fresh black pepper to taste

Directions

1 Place the venison and pork into a large zip-lock bag. Whisk together rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, baking soda, sesame oil and cornstarch and pour into the bag. Seal the bag and turn several times to coat the meat. Place the bag on its side in a baking dish and refrigerate overnight.

2 Prepare the Hunter's Sauce. Melt butter in a heavy-bottomed 12" skillet over medium heat. When the butter is foaming, add in shallots and cook until wilted and transparent. Stir in the tomato paste and chili-garlic sauce, cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is dark and thick. Add flour all at once and incorporate completely.

3 Add the beef broth and bring the sauce to boil, to thicken. Add the jelly and stir to melt. Add the Madeira and simmer for 10 minutes.

4 Remove from heat and whisk in sour cream. Season with salt and pepper and keep hot.

5 Prepare the filling. Drain the meat and discard the marinade.

6 Heat oil in a 14"-skillet over medium-high heat.

7 When the oil is hot, add the meat, stir often, until browned and crisp, about 10 minutes.

8 Lower heat to medium, and add water chestnuts, mushrooms and garlic. Saute until all liquid has evaporated, about 7 to 8 minutes.

9 Add the beef broth and cook, stirring occasionally, until broth is reduced to almost a glaze (about 15 minutes).

10 Stir in the green onions and remove from heat.

11 Place a portion of the meat mixture at the center of each crepe and fold the sides over to cover the filling. Place desired number of crepes on each serving platter, seam sides down. Spoon a portion of the Hunter's Sauce over each and garnish with parsley.


TOPICS: Food; Outdoors; Pets/Animals
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I forgot to add that it is an excellent way to fix meat that has been tainted by hair or poop.

Even after the meat was home processed and frozen by my well meaning brotherinlaw. It had hair in it, my sister was mad at him, but I showed her the magic of brine works well.


21 posted on 09/24/2011 9:14:17 PM PDT by waterhill (Got pig?)
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To: DeoVindiceSicSemperTyrannis; Outlaw Woman; nickcarraway
I just got back from a family gathering where the main course was a young muley buck. We don't get fancy, but you can fit the whole thing into the pig roaster.

I don't have a pic of today's fun, but here is a pig I cooked for an annual Labor Day Pig Fry. Just to give you the general idea.

And venison mince meat pie made from my great grandmas recipe? I'd do prison time for a slice.

22 posted on 09/24/2011 9:17:37 PM PDT by bigheadfred (But alas)
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To: waterhill

Hmm.

That sorta makes sense. I will try that.

By coincidence ? - This young buck I complained about earlier ? ? ?

He was taken from a long range head shot. Dead before he hit the ground. The logistics of actually getting to him prevented me from bleeding him immediately.

You may be on to something here.


23 posted on 09/24/2011 9:18:27 PM PDT by labette ( Humble student of Thinkology)
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To: bigheadfred

mmmmmmmmm!


24 posted on 09/24/2011 9:20:05 PM PDT by Outlaw Woman (Attention: Marxists, Liberals & RINOS: We The People are coming for YOU)
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To: Outlaw Woman

Take some venison cuts and put in crock pot add onions and creme of mushroom soup and let simmer over night and Yum Yum!!!


25 posted on 09/24/2011 9:21:35 PM PDT by jacksonstate
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To: Outlaw Woman

Take some venison cuts and put in crock pot add onions and creme of mushroom soup and let simmer over night and Yum Yum!!!


26 posted on 09/24/2011 9:21:40 PM PDT by jacksonstate
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To: nickcarraway

Those are good recipes.

I prefer my deer/elk steak rare.

Have you ever tried pepper cured venison? Its the best.

Or grind it up and mix with lots of black pepper and minced onions ( let it sit for a while in the fridge) and put in a sandwhich! Yummy!

7 more days and thwack! I am gonna arrow the first doe I see within 40 yards! I am soo ready!


27 posted on 09/24/2011 9:23:36 PM PDT by waterhill (Got pig?)
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To: waterhill
It had hair in it, my sister was mad at him, but I showed her the magic of brine works well.

what does the brine do for the hair? kinda loosens it so it rinses off?

28 posted on 09/24/2011 9:24:10 PM PDT by digger48
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To: magslinger

I pay a local processor three blocks away to package everything to Mrs. labette’s specifications. {even though I am usually the one cooking}

I’m not sure if my hands are still strong and sure enough to take an entire deer from start to finish. (Maybe that’s an excuse for my laziness ? :)


29 posted on 09/24/2011 9:24:54 PM PDT by labette ( Humble student of Thinkology)
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To: jacksonstate

That sounds good.

I like the loin steaks...
Heat cast iron skillet with olive oil, just a tad of tawny port wine, onions,mushrooms
Flour steaks with seasoned flour
Cook depending on thickness....general 3-4 minutes on each side.

mmmmmmmmm! lol

Now I’m very hungry!


30 posted on 09/24/2011 9:25:31 PM PDT by Outlaw Woman (Attention: Marxists, Liberals & RINOS: We The People are coming for YOU)
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To: waterhill

I do the same thing. Soak it in brine then I marinate the hindquarter haunch over night in my own marinade. Next drape bacon over the haunch with seasonings and wine or beer and slow roast for about 3-4 hours on 250-300 degrees. It is to die for. Very tender. Any leftovers we make into chili.


31 posted on 09/24/2011 9:27:35 PM PDT by Georgia Girl 2 (The only purpose of a pistol is to fight your way back to the rifle you should never have dropped.)
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To: waterhill

The best way to age the venison is in a big cooler full of icy brinewater. The brine will pull the blood ( along with other bodily chemicals) out of the meat. Change the water. It may take up to 72 hours for a buck, a doe maybe 24. When the water stays clear, its done. It will be pearl white. Then cut it up however you like. I learned this from Matt Hernandez, a Dallas chef. The venison will be excellent every time.

Works on wild hog too.


This is the best advice on this thread and it really works!


32 posted on 09/24/2011 9:33:02 PM PDT by volunbeer (Keep the dope, we'll make the change in 2012!)
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To: waterhill; labette

The way we age venison is to let them hang for a couple of weeks with the hide on. You know, until they start to form mold inside the ribcage. But this is only when the weather is cool enough to allow for that. Which is generally not a problem for the long gun hunt around these parts.


33 posted on 09/24/2011 9:35:38 PM PDT by bigheadfred (But alas)
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To: Lazlo in PA

Yep, I’ll eat venison, but the cow is still by far the tastiest animal on earth.


34 posted on 09/24/2011 9:39:23 PM PDT by catfish1957 (Hey algore...You'll have to pry the steering wheel of my 317 HP V8 truck from my cold dead hands)
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To: Revolting cat!; nickcarraway

“What’s the big deal, it tastes like chicken.”

Nope! It tastes like rattlesnake...

;>)


35 posted on 09/24/2011 9:41:26 PM PDT by Mr Rogers ("they found themselves made strangers in their own country")
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To: labette

Yeah I know I am. Not conceited but time and time again it proves itself. I have to give credit to Matt Hernandez. He is a big deer hunter and owns resturaunts in the Dallas area.

Note: Two weeks ago, I whacked what appeared to be a 4 month old hog. I mean through the head dead ( I thought ).

Anyways, I am draggin him home as fast as possible and I keep hearing the air escape from the lungs, right?
Well I start to unzip him and the little sucker re-animates in my hands on the table, I mean my dogs were freaking out.

So I am trying to hold on to this 40lb or so pig and cut his throat behind the big hole in his skull. I get it done and blood is pumping out like I don’t know what.

Anyways, get him in the cooler( Quarterd and strapped ) and run to town, get ice, get back salt and a little ACV to boot. Check on it later that afternoon and what do I find?
Clear water and pearly white meat.

I have a pic of him on my homepage, if you have to looksee. You can see the entry point of the 5.56 between the eye and ear. I was kind of weirded out by it, but it isn’t the first time that has happened to me ( re-animation ).


36 posted on 09/24/2011 9:43:23 PM PDT by waterhill (Got pig?)
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To: magslinger

I remember eating deer meat when I lived in northern Utah. I’d work deer check stations, and the hunters would feel sorry for me and go shoot a doe for me.

If it was near farm country, and the deer ate well, the meat was good. I worked one station out in the desert flats. The BUCKS were the size of a small German Shepherd. That year, I told everyone I met that I hated deer meat, for fear they would offer me some. NOTHING would have made that meat edible, although it might have had value for resoling hiking boots.


37 posted on 09/24/2011 9:46:16 PM PDT by Mr Rogers ("they found themselves made strangers in their own country")
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To: nickcarraway
Problem is most folks allow venison to spoil before it ever gets cut.

It's essential to get the skin off within 1 hour to let the meat begin to cool. If possible rinse the chest cavity...and entire animal loading it in the truck.

Must be under refrigeration within 4 hours...8 being an absolute limit. The sooner the meat gets to 35 deg, the better it will be.

38 posted on 09/24/2011 9:51:05 PM PDT by Mariner (War Criminal #18)
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To: digger48

The brine will float the hair to the top. You can skim it off. And, the brine will pull the oil from the hair out of the meat.


39 posted on 09/24/2011 9:51:05 PM PDT by waterhill (Got pig?)
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To: waterhill

ACV = apple cider vinegar ?


40 posted on 09/24/2011 9:54:57 PM PDT by labette ( Humble student of Thinkology)
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