Pay a mechanic you trust to evaluate it! Best money you’ll ever spend.
Also, vehicles have records of reliability. Look up the year and specific model on the ‘net.
At 57K miles the engine is almost certainly original. Check to see if the owner has done regular oil changes. If there is an oil change sticker on the windshield compare the information on it to the current date and mileage.
Look under the hood and check for paint overspray. Also look to see if all the original stickers are in place under the hood - if you don’t see the stickers it is a good indication that the vehicle has been wrecked and repainted. Look to see if the paint on the hood and fenders matches the rest of the body - slight variations can mean a paint job and that usually means the car has been wrecked
Make sure the title is good - a reconditioned or salvage title indicates the vehicle has been totaled in a wreck and rebuilt. It is always best to stay away from those cars.
If all that looks good and your mechanic checks it out it should be OK - good luck
Car Fax is next to useless. If you don’t believe me check their own warranty. A trusted mechanic is the gold standard for used car buying.
That's a great start.
Look for fluids that are "too clean". Not always a bad thing, but sometimes you may want to look a bit more at the vehicle. Look at the oil dipstick. See if it has a varnishing down at the end. This can indicate that the vehicle ran very hot at some point. When test driving, don't simply go around the block. May sure that the temperature gauge rises to operating temperature.
I was looking at a car with my brother, and after letting it cool off, removed the cap, and the anti-freeze was white. Indicative of cylinder head gasket failure or cracked engine block. Oil and water mixed, creating an emulsion. Check the tailpipe as it is running. Say goodbye if you see thick white smoke. Same with thick, bluish smoke. That's oil. A little blackish, gray smoke can simply mean that it needs a tune up.
Have a friend watch your tailpipe as you drive by. If he/ she observes a surge of bluish, black smoke, valve guides are probably worn.$$$$
That's anti-freeze.
Why do you want to pay that much for a 4 year old with 57k
A quick search of all sedans on auto trader and I found 2010s with 25 to 35 on them for that much.
I can get you a Friends and Neighbors discount for a Ford product. All I need is name, address and the last four digits of your social. Get you a pin number you take to your dealer. Might be as good a price as buying a used car.
(1) Why is the owner selling it? Listen for the story, half the read is in the telling, half in what the story is.
(2) Was the owner a smoker? Bad if so. Smokers tend to abuse cars.
(3) As everyone else said, have a trusted mechanic check it out.
(4) If you don’t have a trusted mechanic use a reliable chain shop, e.g. Pep Boys.
(5) You want a mechanic who knows that model and year, and who is able to identify body work.
If you have time and know a mechanic you trust, just tell them what you are looking for. They often have people bring in their cars for a check-over just before they sell it. If they know what you are interested in, they can act as a buying service.
When you find the right vehicle, religiously change the oil. Many people put this off, don’t. I own a Grand Am with 150,000 miles, and it doesn’t use a drop of oil. They are known for being unreliable. Runs like a top. I would trust it going cross country.
Buy a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle from the dealer. Comes with a warranty. Never been disappointed with the two BMWs I’ve bought via CPO.
Be sure to find out if the timing belt has been replaced — Accords need to have this done around 60,000 miles.
If you have a mechanic you can trust have them give it the once over. This will usually cost you a little bit (good mechanics don’t work for free) but if they warn you even one stinker that pays for a lifetime of these checkups. If the seller is at all honest they’ll be more than happy to give the car to your mechanic, if they are at all reluctant move on to the next car.
Look at the seller. Is he the original owner or is this a used car lot? If he is the original owner and a “FR” type (i.e. conscientious & honest) that counts as much as the CarFax or mechanics eval.
A good mechanic can tell if the car has been neglected, in an accident or seriously abused. A good owner makes a difference in how the car was treated.
Honda Accord is a good car. We bought our first Honda, a used 2004 CR-V with 53K in 2007. We now have 161K. A/C compressor died and we changed the rear diff fluids, but other than that, nothing but oil changes, plugs at 100K and put gas in it. BTW, we checked out the original (only) owner.
Carfax only has dealer maintenance information. Any work the owner had done at non-dealer garages doesn’t show up.
Always, always, always leave dealership after you view.
Leave premises, get cup of coffee. Something. Anything. Leave the dealership and think.
Even if it is for 10 minutes. leave the proximity of the vehicle, salesman, etc.
IF the deal is perfect, leave for awhile. If it is the last one, leave for sure. Then...
If you buy it and are happy, shut up. Everyone will pick the deal apart. Just buy it and be happy. It is nobody’s business what you paid and how deal structured.
(did I mention the fact that you must leave the dealership?)
From a former car salesman. The best advice I can give everyone is:
1. Buy a NEW car. (Don’t worry about trade in value (depreciation), drive it until someone wants to pay you cash for it).
2. If you must buy a used car, only buy one you can pay cash for. Car payments AND repair bills are a killer.