Oops! They actually do mention Katz’s on page 2:
When I see tourists going into Katzs, I feel a kind of rage, he continued. This is the food of my people, and places like that are turning it into a joke.
(Later, in a calmer frame of mind, Mr. Bernamoff allowed that the pastrami at Katzs is pretty good.)
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/14/dining/14deli.html?pagewanted=2&ref=general&src=me
“When I see tourists going into Katzs, I feel a kind of rage, he continued. This is the food of my people, and places like that are turning it into a joke.”
What a putz.
Sounds like the idiots who complained about the Taco Bell dog as discrimination.
Having eaten at Katz’, I can say the food is excellent, “forget diets” memorable.