Posted on 10/26/2009 2:06:29 PM PDT by library user
Yeah, I have Passlock then.
I’m guessing not. Sorry ‘bout that. :(
It is in your owners manual, but the service manager wont tell you
If it’s like my Honda, there is a code to be entered (should be in the manual). In Hondas the code is scattered about the car. The most prominent place is inside the glove compartment on the side of the ‘bin’ a sticker with a couple of sets of numbers, the one with the correct number of digits matching the number of digits your radio needs is the right one. They are also somewhere in the hood and truck lids and/or stickers scattered therein.
Not always. Sometimes they give you a separate card and tell you to keep it safe away from the manual (e.g., Honda does this).
I consulted the owners manual. It had the process for re-settting with the known security code, but wife bought the car as a demo, not having the code# If I had known about that, I am told that I could have left the key in the ‘on’ position when I changed batteries and it would not have locked the radio off. The procedure is simple with the code#, but what I need is a GM tech to advise me how to do it without the code.
Or try starting it in neutral.
DHS/FBI surveillance modules use the same socket so be sure to ask Holder for permission before you pop yours out.
Here’s a link with some comments.......
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic166369.htm
Let me give you a what if that happened to me a few years ago. I have a 97 blazer and when it approached 100,000 miles it begin to give trouble about starting in that the ignition wouldn’t engage when the key was turned. It was hit and miss for a period of time until one day it quit. The bottom line is there is a small $2 plastic piece inside the ignition switch that gets worn and causes the problem. It is more prevelant I’m told if you have a lot of weight on the key ring that is hanging/bouncing around as you drive. We replaced that part and everything was fine until the approach of the 200,000 mile mark. Same problem, same fix and car is still running.
Not saying the above is related in any way but just a thought to consider.
GM cars can be reprogrammed without the original code. I sold Hondas and Chevrolets.
Great comment. Thanks. I have a lot of keys on my keyring, not to mention two flash drives. Maybe I’ll keep my spare key in the glove box, the one with nothing on it, when starting up the car. That might help?
Or are you saying the damage is done already and at this point it doesn’t matter how much stuff is on my keyring, when I attempt to start the car?
Thanks again for your reply.
Or are you saying the damage is done already and at this point it doesnt matter how much stuff is on my keyring, when I attempt to start the car?
Correct, assuming that would be your problem. The wear on the plastic part becomes such that the ignition switch doesn’t make the proper contact thus no electical impuluse to the starter system.
Note: that may or may not be your problem but it was mine and happenend twice to me after about each 100,000 miles.
OK, thanks much. I have about 132,000 miles and it started around 129,000 miles.
Mine finally quit and I had to have it towed. The 2nd time when it began to act up I took it to the mechanic and left if as I don’t use the vehicle that much anymore. They kept trying it and one day it wouldn’t engage. It was the same switch part that failed earlier. I can’t tell you what the switch part was called but you may talk to a dealership and see what they tell you. Ultimately that is how we found the failed part as it was noted on an alert from the Manufacture at some point and the mechanics looked it up.
With yours being a 99 Bravada and mine a 97 Blazer it may well be the problem you are having. They are pretty much the same vehicle except for model years.
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