Reloading (Vanity)

Andonius_99

[Andonius_99]

Howdy all,

I know that a lot of FReepers out there are avid shooters and I'm pretty sure that there has to be at least one shooter out there who reloads. Anyway, I was wondering if any of the reloaders out there could possibly point me in the direction of getting started in reloading my own ammo.

What sort of things do I look for? What kind of equipment do I need? I know there's basic kits out in internetland for it, but are there any specific tools out there that I should look for that make the job easier? What kind of hints can you offer to an amateur reloader? Is reloading difficult? I know money-wise it's worth it, but does the hassle outweigh the money saving benefits?

I have a ton of questions about reloading and if anyone out there can answer them and doesn't mind answering them, please let me know.

Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Andonius

[Squantos]

My plinking 45auto load is a Hensley & Gibbs No. 68 lead semi-wadcutter with 4.5gr’s of 231.......use that for IDPA.

[hiredhand]

Not that it qualifies me to give you advice... :-)

But I've been reloading for 28 years and I've never blown up a weapon, nor had anything more serious than getting dust in my eye (AROUND my safety glasses!) one day while reloading with one of my sons...

We reloaded for 25 years on single stage equipment, and then decided that we wanted to "store" some ammo. I acquired a modest budget (well under $500) and called Dillon Precision (800-762-3845 or 480-948-8009). No. I'm NOT an employee, and I certainly get nothing for recommending them. They were terribly honest with me and saved me a LOT of trouble.

I told the guy who answered the phone that I had been loading on single stage equipment for 25 years and didn't want to be "accessorized to death" after buying into their product line. I told him what I wanted to do and that I didn't want to find out later that I need "this gadget" or "that gadget". They were honest with me and told me EVERYTHING that I needed! Of course, I did some research prior and already had a good idea of what I needed. We ended up buying their RL-550B, two tool heads, two tool sets for .45ACP and .308Win/.30-06 (combo), the strong mounts, spare primer tubes, a bullet tray that attaches to the strong mount, and the low primer feed alarm. Bear in mind that we already had case prep equipment, measuring tools, scales, case trimmers, priming tools, and the full compliment of single stage gear and everything that goes with it.

If I had known what I was getting into I would have bought their equipment years ago.

It's GOOD to know how to reload on single stage equipment, and I'd always keep single stage gear around for small batches, or precision rifle ammo. But when we were stocking up, we would start on a Saturday after lunch and load a little better than 500/hr (.45ACP) until dark. We loaded 5000 rounds one day between after lunch and before supper.

The cost savings "can" be significant. Right now, reloaders are at a distinct advantage. Reloading components haven't quite caught up with commercial ammo prices and we can load most common calibers for less than half what they can be purchased for already assembled (new ammo). That won't remain this way for long, but it's that way at the moment...at least with .223 Rem, .45ACP and .308 Win.

[Lurker]

I'd recommend you dispose of the stuff in coffee cans and replace it.

It's not worth the risk to your firearms or your health to be 'pretty sure' about powder.

As far as .45 ACP loads go, you can't really go wrong with Bullseye as far as I'm concerned. It's also perfectly good to use in .44 spl and magnum.

That RCBS press you have should last you a lifetime. I'm still using the single stage one I bought a decade ago and it works just fine.

L

[Lurker]

I have never loaded non jacketed bullets in any caliber. I suppose I should give it a try. I can then add 'bullet casting' to that skill set...

For IDPA I've been using the Remington 230 FMJ's over 4.5 grains of Bullseye. But then I bought a few thousand of the Remington bullets a few years back when they were 8 bucks a hundred or so.

They're a bit more than that now I believe.

L

[hiredhand]

My plinking 45auto load is a Hensley & Gibbs No. 68 lead semi-wadcutter with 4.5gr’s of 231.......use that for IDPA.

What's the bullet weight on that one? Me and "Soap Girl" here were shooting 185gr SWCs out of the .45ACP, and she tried some hardball, and JHPs (Corbons) and did NOT like them at all! She's grown a lot since then though and would probably shoot them well now, but I still like sticking to loads that are easy on the weapon, and the wrist! :-)

[Squantos]

200gr’s !

[hiredhand]

I like Bullseye. But a buddy of mine here in the area recommended WST (Winchester Super Target), and we bought a coule of pounds a few years back. It leaves a LOT less mess to clean off of the weapon after firing! ...but other than that, Bullseye is fine....other than smelling like bat crap! :-)

Gilbo - he's probably right about ditching the unknown propellants. It's a big risk. My wife doesn't approve, but we pour stuff like that into a pile and light it! :-) Use a stick that's lit on one end so that you stay some distance away (a couple of feet) when lighting it. It lights fairly slow, but picks up FAST once lit!

[Inyo-Mono]

I'd recommend you dispose of the stuff in coffee cans and replace it.

It's not worth the risk to your firearms or your health to be 'pretty sure' about powder.

I agree. Believe it or not, smokeless powder is less forgiving than black powder when it comes to measuring an amount of powder for each case. You have a lot more leeway with filling a case with black powder; 34 grains, or even 40 grains of black powder in a .45 Long Colt won't make much differance in safety, but that much differance in grains in smokeless powder can be deadly.

[Squantos]

Due some asshats in my club that have stole brass or wanted to start a few major arguments over who gets what I use CCI blazer copper washed 230gr lead with the alloy cases just to piss those SOB’s off if they show up......:o)

As I leave they are always bitchin about having to separate the stuff they steal from others......they always lose, they can’t shoot and even if it was a tie the range officer will no doubt give the game too the other shooter vs them.

Good thing is they have some major safety violations and one more and they get the boot from the club......they will be Persona Non Grata.

[hiredhand]

200gr’s !

Soap Girl would NOT approve! :-) We got a deal on cast 200 grainers through Dillon a couple of years ago. We realized pretty fast that steel targets go over a LOT faster when you put a good strike on them with those projectiles!

*CLANK*! :-)

In fact, THOSE things are the reason I put a 23lb spring set in my Series 80! The kids couldn't even charge the thing until they were almost teenagers! Oh but it's smooth to shoot though! :-)

[DuncanWaring]

Where do you get brass for the Martini-Henry?

Is is Boxer or Berdan primed?

[Lurker]

Use a stick that's lit on one end

I've 'disposed' of it in a similar fashion but I use a long length of cannon fuse instead of a stick.

Just pour the unwanted substance on top of a few inches of the fuse and light from a safe distance. Then enjoy the show.

L

[hiredhand]

I've 'disposed' of it in a similar fashion but I use a long length of cannon fuse instead of a stick.

Just pour the unwanted substance on top of a few inches of the fuse and light from a safe distance. Then enjoy the show.

L

Ah yes...you KNOW what I'm taking about! I didn't have any green fuse, so I lit the very edge of the pile and as soon as it caught, I moved away FAST. The kids thought it was a hoot! My wife wasn't at all enthused about it though. :-)

[Lurker]

I try to shoot the same loads in IDPA that I would for 'real world' use.

There are a couple of reasons for this. One every load seems to print differently and if I'm ever shooting for my life I don't want to have to think "ok this load shoots a bit low so I have to..."

Second I want the recoil to feel the same all the time. I know it sounds strange but don't want the behavior of the weapon to differ from one situation to the next.

So while I do save a bit of cash shooting the 230 FMJ's in IDPA matches where the bullets hit AND the recoil are very similar to what I build for 'street use'.

I got that advice from a friend of mine who did firearms training for several PD's. He didn't believe in buying 'training ammo' that was different from 'carry ammo' for those reasons.

So I just replace the springs on the old Combat Commander a bit sooner than I would otherwise.

I really love that pistol....

L

[Lurker]

Due some asshats in my club that have stole brass

Man that's really chickensh**....Guys like that should be told to have a real good time this time cause there ain't gonna be a next time.

Last time I did IDPA some of the thick necked SWAT types showed up and made fun of my old Colt. "Didn't think anybody still shot those antiques" and "why don't you buy a gun from this century" kind of crap.

I took 20 bucks a piece from them. They were pretty quiet on the way out for some reason...

L

[Squantos]

Point Shooter.

Not an issue for me !........:o)

[Fido969]

There are a few companies that make it, I bought some made by Jamison when you could get it for $1.50 a case, now it’s between $2.50 and $5 a case. Look around, try Graf’s or Buffalo Arms.

It’s reloadable, just use large rifle primers. Dies are expensive, you can get Lees for about $100 but you need to use a large press with those like the Lee Classic.

It’s a project, but I think it’s worth it.

[rickomatic]

Hey guys, this thread peaked my curiosity, so I retrieved all the reloading stuff a bud gave me a few years ago and I got a few questions to ask...

1 shelf life of opened powders ??? Ive got 5 cans that have been used out of, but were capped tight, any concerns ??? also, a couple of em are in coffee cans and although the writing was legible, I cant be 100% sure if the brand is really correct...

2 bullets... are the .38/.357 the same diameter ??? .44/.45 ??? Ive got a decent supply of .38 & .357 brass, but would rather load the .357 and a few hundred .44 bullets but only .45 vehicles...

3 without a tool, how do I measure the 'best performance' of my loads ??? grouping at diff range ???

4 Anyone know the manufacturer of 'Bonanza' brand press ??? all the rest of the stuff is RCBS, I'm gonna check their site in detail in the next couple days... any info is appreciated, the rest o my questions will be answered hopefully in studying the mechanics of reloading from suppliers sources...

thanks guys...FReegards...

I'll too in my $0.02.
Shelf life of opened powders should be a long time. That is if it's in it's original container, and has either not much of an odor, or an ether odor, it's more than likely ok. Humidity and temperature flucuations are the enemies of gunpowder. I just loaded up some .38 S&W reloads last night with some 20 year old Bullseye, and it shot fine.
As for the powder in coffee cans...I'd toss it. Just throw it in your garden. It makes great fertilizer. It's not worth blowing up a good firearm, or losing a body part because you "thought" it was the right powder.
.38 Special & .357 Magnum both use .358 diameter bullets. .44 Special or .44 Magnum use either .429 or .430 diameter bullets. .45 ACP and .45 Colt use .452 diameter bullets.
Figuring out performance without a chronograph is pretty much a function of just shooting different loadings at different distances and comparing groupings and points of impact. Always remember of course, when working up loads, start at the minimum published charge levels then slowly increasing the load towards the maximum published charge. Remember too, that you will probably get your best results closer to the minimum levels than the maximum levels.
Sorry, but I don't have any information about Bonanza. I am a dedicated Lee and RCBS guy. I know they work, and the price is right.

[Gilbo_3]

"Thank You" for the FRee-advice...

Ive only got an old Hornady book so far, and gonna finish the tile in the bathroom, I just dont know what to do while the thinset cures...8^}

[hiredhand]

I've got an old (circa 1985) Speer manual. I think it's their #5. Any good guide will do, plus there is a wealth of information from the net! We have a LOT of printed material from the net along with the Speer manual.

Keep me posted and I'll help you out if I can. I forgot to mention ONE thing though... Be SURE to purchase head space gages, ESPECIALLY for rimless rifle cartridges! Straight walled pistol catridges aren't so critical because they headspace on the casemouth and length can be checked with a dial caliper. But I had one potentially serious problem a couple of years ago that Squantos helped me sort out and a headspace gage verified that we didn't have a sizing die seated into the press FAR enough. It created a condition where a semi-auto .308 rifle "could" have fired out of battery.

I put high value on headspace gages, and a GOOD scale. :-)