Posted on 12/31/2007 2:45:01 PM PST by Tennessee_Bob
That's really a warm weather project. New valves are cheaper than attempting to dismantle, polish and repack those.
I have seen those valves before, many years ago. I couldn’t find replacements which later turned out not to be a serious concern because the pipe was in such bad condition that I ended up replacing most of it.
Unless you have a pressure leak, I wouldn’t so much as take a wire brush to those valves just yet. They are in seriously sad shape and when it comes time for the work to be done, you will be replacing more than just the valves. Expect to replace nipples and possibly elbows. So gather up some soldering supplies.
Be sure to heat those joints before putting a wrench to them. Have you ever cut a nipple from inside to the threads then rolled (collapsed) it up. Looking at the elbows, that may be the best option to preserve the threads. That is if there’s any left.
If you are going to bid it out, I would take a lot of pictures, use mirrors to show the bottoms. Take close ups and further back so that the contractor has a good idea of what he’s bidding on.
Someone else suggested using a grey haired plumber. Let me move that up to a white haired one.
That’s what I thought. Doesn’t look like a valve to me. Drain plug.
Think of a valve with a spring on the outside (lower) that is adjusted with a screwdriver thru that top plug.
Could be. Just that most of the times I’ve seen fittings like that (usually on old diesel mining equipment, etc), they were plugs, not valves.
I say hit it with liquid wrench, let er set for a day, then see how it turns!
If it wasn’t the mans heating system, I’d agree.
But to be honest and realistic about the piping age I think you'd save money converting over. I know the houses your're talking about though.
Hey, what’s the worst that could happen? It’s only like -12 degrees tonight in NY, right?
:-)
Bob that valve is the pressure regulator IIRC. That is why the arrow is on it for direction of flow. It wouldn’t matter on an off on valve but either a check valve or regulator would though. From the looks of the pipes be real careful if you decide a self fix. I can’t even think locally who would carry a replacement. You might try Flatt Plumbing in Knox. All the companies I worked with locally were commercial system contractors. Somebody is still working on those systems locally though. I’d think there would still be a few units still going anyway.
LOL
Yer cold a dude!
ROFLMAO - I just spit out some Pepsi on my monitor.
Have I mentioned that my plumber has retired here in Texas? One day I may be sending my own FReepmail to you guys ...
1)Wait till the weather warms up.
2) Go to rent-a-jack-hammer.
3) Send the wife & kids on a long vacation.
4) Jack-hammer out the concrete inside the foundation
5) Pour a nice new concrete floor.
6) Get a modern high efficiency gas furnace.
RE: 6) Get a modern high efficiency gas furnace.
The gas company is currently funding their retirement and equipment replacement programs through my gas bill. I’m becoming more and more convinced that I’m going to become a tree-hugger. If I can wrap my arms around it, it’s good enough sized to cut it down and use it for firewood. :)
LOL I beat the gas co by going propane. The first gallon , therm, whatever I buy costs the same as the last one. Plus, when the power goes out, I run my generator off the propane.
I’ve seen these valves used mostly for gas but ocasionaly for water. Be real careful with them because it looks like the manifold is iron pipe and the slab loops are copper so you may have some of that tinfoil hat dielectric action going on. They make electric zone valves that control the flow to the loops but it will take some work to redo the manifold to fit them. If the loops are still good might be time to look at one of those 90%+ new mini boilers (Munchkin, Trinity, Buderus etc). Happy New Year and good luck.
http://www.americanvalve.com/pdf/bronze/13.pdf
I just thought of something else. If you do upgrade to a furnace you might have to go natural gas or propane. What I'm thinking is if the electrical service was never upgraded you might have a 60-100 amp service into your house. That would mean for an electric furnace you'd have to do a service re-wire {as expensive as the furnace} to bring it to code. On the other hand a gas furnace would only require enough power for the blower.
Before I tried to fix the old system I'd call around about securing parts. Lienarts {sp} maybe Johnstone supply {not sure on that one they change their type of inventory}, or you may have to order parts from out of state. A maintenance mechanic at the hospital or one of the older buildings in town might know. Try the school system also. IIRC I was near the high school a few weeks back and Shofner had a trailer back around Grove Center somebody there might have an idea.
The only other ones I can think of is KBM and they are mostly commercial oriented repairs but the owner is one of the most knowledgeable HVAC mechanics in this end of the state. All my experience was with water circ systems with pneumatic controlled valves on the coils and a heat exchanger coming off the boiler used in hospitals etc.
Thanks for the Ping and confidence :-)
And sorry for the late reply.
However, I'm a bit stumped.
Also, Hydronics and 'Field Work' is not my exactly specialty in HVAC (I'm the 'V' (ventilating engineering) in HVAC). But if I saw that 'valve' on a Blue Print of the system design I could tell you exactly what it is. But from pictures, no.
The exception is Metro areas like Chicago & Cook county where by Union Rules it falls under Pipe Fitter jurisdiction. Out in the collar counties like DuPage it's back to the Plumbers.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
But there is ONE general rule in all Mechanical Disciplines we all follow -
If It Ain't Broke Don't 'fix' It.
And especially not in the dead of winter. Unless you have an emergency wait until Spring.
Good luck.
It is weird looking. With the part on the bottom it looks spring loaded like a regulator. The markings on top look like off on marks though. I can’t tell but the stem body looks threaded too. The good news if he can determine the type and maker of the valve might be able to order a rebuild kit for it.
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