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Freeper help wanted - car question

Posted on 01/13/2007 3:06:28 PM PST by djf

OK I drove by it three days in a row. Finally, the snow stopped an I was able to read the 4sale sign.

It was a freakin steal. So now it's in my driveway. No pics (yet)

But my question is this: What could/should a fellow do when he's restoring a car? This one is in VERY good shape, I could easily put in on ebay and sell it in hours for much more than I paid.

Is there anything in particular that a guy SHOULDN'T do during a restoration?

The car is:

1966 Chev Impala 327 four door.

Any and all experience/tips with restorations appreciated!!


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To: Rudder

Thanks!

Thats the kind of stuff I need to know. I'm not restoring it to sell it, more just to keep me busy and outa trouble!

One of the reasons I think it was good is that all the interior stuff is there and in pretty good shape. (I mean stuff like ashtrays, etc.) The parts joints will nickle and time ya then end up charging an arm and a leg for knobs and stuff like that.

But all the chrome is good, door handles, etc. Gonna need work on the trunk and both rear quarter panels will need to be replaced.

And a few of the places (like around the windshield molding) have a bit of rust. Probably not that big a deal to fix (like a 15 minute job) but take 3 hours to get to it!

It's frozen shut now, 16 degrees at my place.


41 posted on 01/14/2007 9:36:58 AM PST by djf (Democracy - n, def: The group that gets PAID THE MOST ends up VOTING THE MOST See: TRAGEDY)
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To: xcamel; sully777; All
I posted a pic!


42 posted on 01/14/2007 9:38:17 PM PST by djf (Democracy - n, def: The group that gets PAID THE MOST ends up VOTING THE MOST See: TRAGEDY)
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To: djf

IF the paint is original, do not change the car's color. If it is not original, then try and determine what it was, and repaint in that color. If you cannot determine the car's original color, the find out what colors were available in that model year and use the one you like best. Get rid of any "after market" additions that were not available at that time. Find out what "dealer options" were available at that time and add as many of them as you can find. If it has a modern stereo, replace it with an original GM radio. Replace the worn carpet with factory original style and color. If the seats are not original, replace them and reupholster them in factory original colors that match the paint you chose. This is just the start......


43 posted on 01/15/2007 5:05:37 AM PST by Red Badger (New! HeadOn Hemorrhoid Medication for Liberals!.........Apply directly to forehead.........)
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To: djf
The parts joints will nickle and time ya then end up charging an arm and a leg for knobs and stuff like that.

That's why we have GOOOOOOOOOGLE! There are parts places that sell original stuff for cars that isn't that expensive, anymore...........

44 posted on 01/15/2007 5:09:31 AM PST by Red Badger (New! HeadOn Hemorrhoid Medication for Liberals!.........Apply directly to forehead.........)
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To: Red Badger

Good tip.

It has all the knobs, etc. The major areas it needs are:
Both rear lower quarter panels need replaced.
The trunk is totally covered in rust - I mean chucks of rust are scattered all over. Thats what got at the quarter panels, you can see it right behind the rear wheel.
Hole in the floorboard on the passenger side
Alot of the smaller upholstery parts have separated from the mountings. All the original fabric is there. If I can come up with the type of baseboard it used, cut it into shape and the mounting slots, it should go back right in.
New carpet in the front. The rear is original and is in excellent shape.
Headliner (which is a series of strips of fabric stitched together) has separated at one spot. Not torn, just the stitching gave out. I have all the materials needed to rebuild it.
Cleaning and repainting of interior metal parts. You can bet alot of Freepers never saw a car with a metal dashboard! ;-)
Some minor electrical work.

Thats what I see so far.


45 posted on 01/15/2007 5:22:21 AM PST by djf (Democracy - n, def: The group that gets PAID THE MOST ends up VOTING THE MOST See: TRAGEDY)
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To: djf

There are 3 metal dashboards in cars 50 feet from me.......1933 Ford, 1939 Ford and 1964 Corvair............


46 posted on 01/15/2007 5:27:23 AM PST by Red Badger (New! HeadOn Hemorrhoid Medication for Liberals!.........Apply directly to forehead.........)
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To: Red Badger

Reading your Freep page, I am a year older than you.

Youth is truly wasted on the young!


47 posted on 01/15/2007 5:31:45 AM PST by djf (Democracy - n, def: The group that gets PAID THE MOST ends up VOTING THE MOST See: TRAGEDY)
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To: djf

...and wisdom on the old......


48 posted on 01/15/2007 5:40:36 AM PST by Red Badger (New! HeadOn Hemorrhoid Medication for Liberals!.........Apply directly to forehead.........)
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To: djf

That is a 66 model


49 posted on 01/15/2007 5:46:18 AM PST by nkycincinnatikid
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To: nkycincinnatikid

Whoops, sorry , you already knew that. never mind.


50 posted on 01/15/2007 5:47:27 AM PST by nkycincinnatikid
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To: djf

In high school I made deliveries for a florist shop. They had a 66 Chevy wagon. I also cleaned and polished it often,it was a very attractive car. I know that it was in daily use well into the 90's! It must have had close to 2k on it when retired. Good find, good luck.


51 posted on 01/15/2007 5:57:01 AM PST by nkycincinnatikid
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To: Red Badger

The holes in the floorboard can be patched with fiberglass if they aren't too big. Re-inforce with metal if they are larger than a couple of inches. The rear panels may have to be replaced if the cancer has gone beyond three inches. Get yourself a cheap sandblaster gun. Its great on trunks and inside wheelwells. Glass beads, instead of sand, aren't too expensive. Trunk splatter paint is readily available just about anywhere. Check all rubber hoses and bushings for cracks, especially brake lines.............


52 posted on 01/15/2007 5:58:20 AM PST by Red Badger (New! HeadOn Hemorrhoid Medication for Liberals!.........Apply directly to forehead.........)
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To: nkycincinnatikid

I just always loved the early chevs, remember in the '70s when I saw cars rusting away in the fields that's be worth a freakin fortune now.

Once in a while I'll see and old chev station wagon and just start drooling!

But here is the greatest joy: This car is actually PUT TOGETHER WITH SCREWS!! You can TAKE THINGS OFF AND PUT THEM BACK TOGETHER WITHOUT SECOND GUESSING SOME CLOWN OF AN ENGINEER!!

I found out long ago that soaking metal parts in a light muriatic acid removes rust, so I guess I'll be off to the hardware store soon. Also, I need a car cover. It has suffered from being damp inside. Surprisingly, no musty smell. About a year ago I checked a 64 Mercedes in very good shape, but it really stunk inside. This one is fine.


53 posted on 01/15/2007 6:10:47 AM PST by djf (Democracy - n, def: The group that gets PAID THE MOST ends up VOTING THE MOST See: TRAGEDY)
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To: Red Badger; All

Report:

So far...

New tires last weekend, also new alternator. Old alt was making some noise.

When I picked up the alternator, the gal behind the counter looks at the parts guy and says "Whoa, big sale there.." Cost 39 bux. Alot of the old GM stuff can be had for a song.

One of the high beams was burned out, so I picked up two Sylvania halogens. One went in fine, the other, I couldn't get the spring back attached to the round frame. So I used a cable tie, and as I pulled on the cable tie, it tightened the spring, and the light is now right where it's supposed to be.

New high beam kickdown switch on the floor. The other was so slagged up when I hit it with a hammer, it still didn't free up. So I hit it a bit harder and it busted.

I took six interior metal trim parts out. They went to the sandman last weekend. They have all been freshly painted with a very close matching color.

All the seals that were still in good shape have been cleaned up and reseated. Still needs window seals. I can reach up from the front seat and literally pull the rubber seal out from the window.
Called three auto glass places and asked them if they can redo the seals. They said "Sure, what's the car?" I said 66 Impala and they all said "No effin way, dude"
But there is a local guy who does specialty glass and he says he will do it.

The guy who had it before had the plastic window tint stuff on. Musta thought he was James Bond or something. Took me hours with a single edged razor to get all the adhesive off. (and a little acetone)

Front carpet totally out down to the metal. Wire brushed, and sprayed with a rust inhibiting enamel. New carpet is in the mail as we speak. Left side is fine, I've stomped on it a couple times. Right side has a hole that could be covered with an oval 10X12 inches. I have some construction fiber-board type material that I think will work. My plan now is to cut a piece that fits the hole good. Then, cut another piece that goes over that piece, but is a couple inches bigger around in all dimensions. Finally, put the whole mess together with some construction adhesive/waterproofing agent. Will need new sound deadener over the whole mess before carpet goes in, I am thinking regular type carpet mat that I have here, but might need something more robust.

Overhead dome light wasn't working. Took me hours with the voltmeter. Finally realized the door switches were so oxidized, it wasn't getting any contact. Cleaned off both with a couple drops hydrochloric acid, plus the contacts on the light itself, now it works like a champ.

Took the rear seat out. Some rodent droppings and other BS in there. Cleaned it all up well and put back together.

Headliner - Man, did I luck out. It was (and parts still are) blotched with mildew. I thought about it and tried a soft brush with various cleaners, some worked, but not all that well. Headliner material is a vinylized farbic, finally, it hit me: Shower cleaner! Mildew, and all that jazz! Worked so well, that headliner is gonna look BRAND NEW by the time I'm done, I kid you not. The miracle of vinyl, I guess! Same deal with fold down sun shades. They were taken out and cleaned, I also had to repair the seams, a very tedious process with C-clamps and Gorilla glue.

Power steering fluid: I don't get this car. I could blow on the steering wheel, and I swear, the tires would turn. But when I checked the level and quality of the power steering fluid, THERE WAS NONE. Totally dry. So I filled it anyway. Weird.

Trunk lock was kind of stiff, so I hit it with Liquid Wrench, took the key in a pair of pliers, and just worked it about 40 times. Works perfect now.

New bolts on the battery cable connectors.

Miscellaneous stuff.

To go:
Brakes
Window seals
It has some kind of exhaust leak, I'm not sure of the status of the muffler. I don't really care at this point if it's a bit loud.
The material below the back window where the stereo speakers are mounted is warped and starting to fall apart from being wet. Needs replacement. (The good part of that is that the Clarion tape player in it and Jensen speakers are a pretty high-end unit!)
Trunk - a total rust bucket. Gonna clean it out. Got a good idea from my next door neighbor, who was telling me about his new pickup, which just has the BED LINER SPRAYED ON. If I clean up the trunk, hit it with a good rust stopper, I might just think about having the same thing done. Durable at least.
Rear quarter panels - body shop.
New door locks. I've tried everything I can think of, and the door locks won't free up to work with the key. This is a pretty high priority item.
Paint and trim - sometime in the future!


54 posted on 01/25/2007 6:22:57 PM PST by djf (Democracy - n, def: The group that gets PAID THE MOST ends up VOTING THE MOST See: TRAGEDY)
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To: djf

Sounds as if you have it pretty well in hand. The floor pan hole should be covered with sheet metal, aluminum, usually available at Lowes or Home Depot, that is pop riveted in. Fiberboard will just deteriorate and need to be redone anyway. The trunk bed liner is a great idea. I suggested it to a friend of mine who's restoring a 64 Corvair ragtop. He's seriously thinking about the whole floorpan. It's just a bunch of patched holes with aluminum sheets and rivits. I would check the brakes and drums and ancillary items for extensive wear and get new drums, painted the color of the car.......


55 posted on 01/26/2007 5:14:09 AM PST by Red Badger (Rachel Carson is responsible for more deaths than Adolf Hitler...............)
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To: djf
With a car like that, you need to be very careful what parts you use during restoration. This car has it's value in being totally original, and even if the part fits, like a alternator and the like, the production date of the alternator is more important than the fit.

I think that should tell you all you need to know.

56 posted on 01/26/2007 5:17:52 AM PST by Cold Heat
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To: Cold Heat; Red Badger

Thanks!

I figure I'm gonna make it road worthy first. Doubt I will ever try to make it a show car. The difference between making it a premium ride and making it cherry is probably like 20K!

But it is going very well. Gotta get the window seals done, that's a biggie.


57 posted on 01/26/2007 7:43:26 AM PST by djf (Democracy - n, def: The group that gets PAID THE MOST ends up VOTING THE MOST See: TRAGEDY)
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To: djf
My second car was a 1965 Impala convertible with a 327/300 and a powerglide trans.

It was only 3 years old at the time and the door seals were already screwed up, if I recall.....LOL...

58 posted on 01/26/2007 8:54:16 AM PST by Cold Heat
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To: djf

When you get frustrated, put a sign in the window stating "Project 2 Years Ahead of Schedule."


59 posted on 01/26/2007 8:58:13 AM PST by Tijeras_Slim
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To: Tijeras_Slim

Lol!

I just dropped it off at the shop for brakes, the guy said something about turning the rotors...

didn't give me alot of confidence.

;-(


60 posted on 01/26/2007 9:34:29 AM PST by djf (Democracy - n, def: The group that gets PAID THE MOST ends up VOTING THE MOST See: TRAGEDY)
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