My nostrils burn from expelled Pepsi Cola.
That wins the "MOST PLAUSIBLY PYTHONISH QUOTE OF THE DAY".
Posted on 12/11/2006 8:57:32 PM PST by rudy45
I went to Home Depot because I may need to replace shutoff valves to the toilets in our home. We have copper pipes.
I saw several different types of valves. I believe I have, right now, multiturn rather than 1/4 turn valve. However, what is the difference between a "sweat" connection and a compression connection and an iron connection? Also, the part of the valve into which the pipe stub goes appears to be unthreaded. How, then, does the valve stay on the pipe? Thanks.
Would you mind terribly if I turned this into an anti-immigration thread?
lol, make sure you're clear that it's anti ILLEGAL immigration... now go start your own thread lol
A sweat is a solder connection, with a blowtorch.
A compression literally compresses a brass doughnut ring around the pipe end, the force of this compression holds the conection together and prevents leakage.
An iron stub, or MIP shouldn't apply as you have copper pipes, not iron.
The sweat is actually the easiest to do. Just heat then lay the solder to the joint, capilary action does the rest.
Thanks. However, if I install a sweat connection, then I need a soldering iron and solder, right? I haven't used those things since junior high. Why is sweat connection easier than compression? seems with the latter, all I need is a wrench? Thankx. What are some advantages of sweat over compression?
Another issue: I would be replacing a valve that's already there. What if is sweat connection? Will I even be able to remove it?
I wouldn't sweat the compression. But then some people do fold under pressure.
Ya see what you really need is a Fartzen valve. You Ramset that into the Proprieting Pickler, set it to "Rotate", attach the Board Stretcher, now that's a Hendersen Board Stretcher-don't let 'em sell you anything else, fire up the Ion Streamer and you're all set.
Let me know if you have any problems.
L
Shut off the valve from Mexico and flush the ones who are here!! AARRGH!
In this case, I suspect hiring a plumber will be cheaper in the long run.
1.)Shut off the main water line to the house (or to the bathroom, if possible).
2.)Drain the toilet and remove the valve.
3.)Take the valve with me down to Home Depot. Although my preference is a local hardware store as the employees tend to be more knowledgeable.
Unless your commode is a hundred years old, an origional replacement valve should still be available.
Go with the 1/4 turn, you won't regret it.
L
I could be wrong, but I think many toilet valves (or the water supply line to the toilet) are multi turn valves and most likely is screwed onto a threaded stub out.
If you want to replace that old, hard to turn, corroded valve, etc., get a new quarter turn valve which is probably also called a ball valve..
Be careful removing the old valve from the stub out. Use 2 wrenches so you don't break off the old threaded stub out if it's sweated to the old supply line.
Freepers know everything don't we? !
Now if only I could get some advice on my broken down personal relationships,.....
Does the old fitting have a nut to turn? If not it is a sweat, you will need a propane blowtorch, flux, emery cloth, and solder. The old fitting can either be removed by heating till the old solder liquifyes, or by using a tubing cutter. The cutter is kind of a pain in tight situations.
Try a local HW store, or an ACE, the chances of finding anyone with knowlege in a big box chain store is very slight.
Multiturn valves...doing the turns American valves won't do.
My nostrils burn from expelled Pepsi Cola.
That wins the "MOST PLAUSIBLY PYTHONISH QUOTE OF THE DAY".
hehe...you are a good sport about that!
Did you get the answer you need?
For soldering copper pipes [WITHOUT water in them- dried, and with the copper surfaces lightly sanded and fluxed] the soldering iron is not powerful enough. Thus a gas blowtorch is used [NOT an oxygen torch, just a blowtorch like bernz-o-matic]. To acquire experience, first practice on some short pieces of tubing to get the hang of it.
You've got freepmail.
Get a quarter turn ball valve. It will be more dependable.
If the current valve is threaded, replace it with a threaded valve. If it is sweated, replace it with either a sweated or compression valve. The compression valve is actually simpler to use, but the stub must be clean and round for it to work.
If you use a compression valve, and after proper tightening there is a tiny, tiny drip, put a bowl under it an keep an eye on it. It should calcify and seal up.
If you sweat a valve on, make sure the stub is clean, sanded, and well fluxed. Use a propane torch and apply heat to the fitting, not the stub, until solder flows into the joint, then stop heating. Be careful with the torch, you may not realize you are inadvertantly heating some surrounding material. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
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