"If it's brown drink it down, if its black send it back". - Homer J. Simpson
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The pressure is fine now but I've had the faucet in the kitchen running about 10 minutes and it's still cloudy and reddish colored. That's in addition to flushing the toilet half a dozen times.
Will it clear up if I just let it run for a bit longer? Or should I go buy some drinking water? Was he wrong saying that a filter isn't necessary?
Sorry for another vanity post but I don't have anyone available that I can ask right now.
You just stirred it up working on your pump. It will clear.
Buy bottled water.
It's pipe rust. It will eventually disappear.
Reddish-brown is rust. They've disturbed the pipes, and knocked some of the rust inside the pipes loose. It will clear up. IMHO.
Get some water for drinking, and wait a day or so for the water by the well pump to settle and clear. Running the water won't make it clear, it has to settle down by the pump (I'm assuming your pump is at the bottom of the well, where ours is iirc).
We occasionally get brown water if there's a lot of rain, it takes it a day or two to settle.
Looks like you're gonna have to blast. Got any dynamite?
Just don't let the moose drink it, otherwise the moose will go crazy for cheese and bite your sister
:)
Yes, it will clear. if you want to speed up the process, run your hose SLOWLY for a while. If you keep running it through your faucet, you may clog up the screen of the little plastic particle trap gizmo thing.
It doesn't mean your water is contamonated, but any time you have well work done, it's not a bad idea to chlorinate the well. If you don't know how, i can explain.
Bush's Fault.
Gosh you people are slow.
That will go away Miztiki, it's just sediment and other stuff disturbed when you had your well fixed.
You'll probably have dirty water for a couple of days. All the work he did stirred up stuff that had either collected in the pipes or settled to the bottom of our system. You need to wait for it to settle back down and flush out. Get some bottled water for drinking and DON"T do any laundry until it runs clean.
You might want to drain your hot water tank too and get the sediment out of it now too.
The Rapture?
Let your water run from every available faucet until it's clear. No need to run hot.
Are there unusual numbers of frogs and locusts running around? Be ready to freak out if the neighbors start painting their door lintels with lambs blood.
Don't panic. It's just rust.
Whatever you do, don't do laundry for a couple of days.
If you already did there's some stuff you can use to get your underwear white again.
Oh yes, you should drain the junk out of the bottom of your hot water heater.
Rove, you magnificent bastard...
Eventually, the rust "should" clear out (unless it is iron bacteria..., which, though unsightly, is not a health hazard..., it may build up the iron in your blood?). If you are going to stay in the house for some time, I would invest in a good fiberglass bladder tank and scrap that galvanized item. As for iron removal, there are specific water treatment filter units (far different from the little sediment filter which was installed on your system). Do a google search on water treatment and you'll get a full education on the issue.
If you look on the inside of the plastic cover on the pressure switch, you will see what the "cut-on/cut-off" pressures are. Most switches are 20 or 30 "cut-on" and 40 or 50 "cut off". If yours is a 20-40 switch unit, 39 pounds of pressure is "right on" (the pressure switches can be adjusted a few pounds either side of the factory setting and, given the fact that the gauges are not precise... 39 pounds of pressure may actually be 37 to 42 pounds in actuality.
Just recognize that, unlike "city water", your water pressure is never going to be as much as you wish it was..., but you get used to it!
BTW, 3 minutes to reach "cut-off" from "cut-on" is fairly normal for a non-bladder tank of your apparent size (80 gallons?)! Also, for future reference, the bladder tanks, due to their construction, are equal to much larger non-bladder tank sizes. Also, the larger your tank, the less often your pump will have to cycle and the longer it will last (it is the "on-offs" which wear..., just like your heart beats..., you only have so many available for the life of the unit (whether a water pump or a heart)! So, if you get a new bladder tank, don't "save" on the size..., tanks are a LOT less expensive to replace than submerible pumps!!!
"If it's brown drink it down, if its black send it back". - Homer J. Simpson
>Was he wrong saying that a filter isn't necessary?
ABSOLUTELY! I changed the old filter three times in the past 18 months and everytime I changed it, the old filter was full of brown fine particles. Check my email. Get hold of the guy and ask him to put a paper filter. The carbon filter causes a restriction in flow.
He was also wrong in putting the filter housing on the other side of the tank (if that's what he did). This way the tank will get full of sediments.
Finally, an 80 gallon tank is more than enough and not too small as he said.