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Need some advice buying a used car
Jan. 3, 2006 | Alouette

Posted on 01/03/2006 1:55:54 PM PST by Alouette

FReepers, as you may probably know, I was involved in a car crash that resulted in the demise of my beloved companion, a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix SE.

Sadly, the insurance adjustor has determined that my most dearly loved mode of transportation cannot be repaired at a cost of less than its market value, wherefore they are offering a buyout so that I can purchase another vehicle. Insurance will not compensate unless they receive my TITLE, so seeking 2nd opinions from independent body shops is not an option.

Anyway, before entering the dangerous jungle of the used car market with all its traps and pitfalls, I am seeking the advice and recommendations of FReepers on where and how to find a replacement for my darling.


TOPICS: Chit/Chat
KEYWORDS: alouette; automotive; help; usedcar
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To: trillabodilla; Alouette

As a 12-year Toyota owner, I second that.

Friends who drive Fords and Saturns have had numerous problems, but all the Toyota drivers I know are very happy with their vehicles. I bought mine used, and it's been a wonderful car.

As for avoiding the lemons, I hear this site is helpful:

http://www.carfax.com/

Best of luck, Alouette!


61 posted on 01/03/2006 6:39:47 PM PST by annie laurie (All that is gold does not glitter, not all those who wander are lost)
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To: Alouette

Honestly, you should get good money for your car from insurance, I'd go to the local car lots and look, whether you'd be buying new or used.

Trying to get by on the cheap at auctions is something naive people get screwed doing... mechanics, dealers, and traders can go into those deals, but unless you really know what you're doing, work with a local business in your town that you can find again.


62 posted on 01/03/2006 6:43:07 PM PST by HairOfTheDog (Join the Hobbit Hole Troop Support - http://freeper.the-hobbit-hole.net/ 1,000 knives and counting!)
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To: Salem
This is a picture of me in the early 80's

I'm like, so impressed. I could show you a picture of me in the early 80's, when I weighed about 100 lb's. I was HOT! Now I'm a grandma.

What can I say but that was 26 years ago.

63 posted on 01/03/2006 6:47:38 PM PST by Alouette (Neocon Zionist Media Operative)
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To: BigTex5
That is easily 10K worth of damage.

When is the last time you had body work done? Some idiot hit the side of my car and made a small dent behind the driver's-side door. $2,800 (I caught the idiot on film and is insurance paid).

Total it is exactly what the insurance company should do.

But I recommend a new car or at oldest a 2 yo used car. Cars lose the most value in the 1st 2 years.

And run CARFAX!!!!
64 posted on 01/03/2006 6:51:47 PM PST by freedumb2003 (American troops cannot be defeated. American Politicians can.)
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To: Salem

PL 610?


65 posted on 01/03/2006 6:52:22 PM PST by freedumb2003 (American troops cannot be defeated. American Politicians can.)
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To: BigTex5
Its almost hard to find a newer car that doesn't have a rubber timing belt. But they normally last 60-90k miles. And its not that expensive if you change it time, now if you don't when it snaps it will probably bend the valves.

Not if its a non-interference engine. ;)

Do some research on different kinds of used cars. Some Toyotas and Chrylsers have known tranny problems. Some Nissan's have some known quirky electrical problems. Some GM products with the 3800 series II engines have quirky faults too, a Ford Taurus is a total POS...but a Focus is a sold vehicle, etc., etc.

Talk to a mechaninc you trust...see what he drives, see what he would recommend.

66 posted on 01/03/2006 6:57:17 PM PST by BureaucratusMaximus (Mortify your imagination when it saddens you with the prospect of a dreary future.)
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To: Alouette

Bookmark


67 posted on 01/03/2006 8:33:01 PM PST by chaosagent (Remember, no matter how you slice it, forbidden fruit still tastes the sweetest!)
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To: faq; Alouette
Alouette - sorry to hear about your accident and glad you survived although your car didn't. Faq's advice is good. This happened to me twice, in two different cars. One body shop brought in an estimate greater than blue book and advised that as a "totalled" vehicle that it would be taken by the insurance company. I got another body shop to give an estimate just under that value, and promised to pay a difference out of pocket. Result - I got a settlement that repaired the car, took care of my injuries, and got to keep the car. (Legality is a gray area here, but some body shops do these arrangements - no one is losing anything.) And after a few years, resold it to buy another.

Last accident I had, a red-light runner broadsided my car with similar damage as your car. Took a couple years of treatments to heal, so I understand your pain. Again, glad you're still with us and hope you heal quickly.

68 posted on 01/03/2006 10:46:44 PM PST by roadcat
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To: Alouette
Test drive the car you're interested in. If it feels right and you decide you want to buy it, run a Carfax check to see if the title is good and to make sure its not a flooded, wrecked or rebuilt car - important since extended car warranties won't cover them. Then take the car to an independent mechanic to discover if it has any hidden expensive repair problems. After you've ascertained the title is OK and the car is mechanically sound, its time to negotiate with the dealer. Pay all in cash upfront if you can and ask for a discount. And make sure after you've paid for the car, the dealer transfers the title to you. Then enjoy the new ride of your dreams!

(Denny Crane: "I Don't Want To Socialize With A Pinko Liberal Democrat Commie. Say What You Like About Republicans. We Stick To Our Convictions. Even When We Know We're Dead Wrong.")

69 posted on 01/03/2006 11:44:47 PM PST by goldstategop (In Memory Of A Dearly Beloved Friend Who Lives On In My Heart Forever)
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To: Alouette

Look for a Honda Civic or Honda Accord. I've had four Civics (three were leased; my 2005 I bought this past April) and every one of them has been troublefree and reliable. Most of my friends have Hondas or Toyotas and they rave about them.

Most Hondas in the USA are made in Ohio and most Toyotas in the US are made in Kentucky. A lot of Nissans are made in Tennessee.


70 posted on 01/04/2006 6:42:50 AM PST by Convert from ECUSA (Not a nickel, not a dime, stop sending my tax money to Hamastine!)
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To: Beelzebubba

My rule involves refusing to discuss any other car than the one you called about. This means that if that car is no longer there, the phone call is ended.

Other than color and trim, all those details you list DO matter, and you should have decided firmly on them before choosing specific cars and calling the dealers who are offering them. If I've decided that I'm going to pay $3500 for an 8 year old GM compact station wagon with a/c and automatic transmission and under 70,000 miles, that the dealer has listed for $7950 (as was the case with my most recent purchase), I am not going to discuss any car that doesn't meet all those criteria. I am not interested in paying $3500 for a 10 year old car with 100,000 miles, no a/c, and a manual transmission, which is the sort of thing the salesman would be trying to push once I'd made it clear that $3500 was the absolute limit.


71 posted on 01/04/2006 8:05:26 AM PST by GovernmentShrinker
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To: Alouette
"I could show you a picture of me in the early 80's, when I weighed about 100 lb's. I was HOT!"

LOL!! I'm sure you were!  !

72 posted on 01/04/2006 9:02:42 AM PST by Salem (FREE REPUBLIC - Fighting to win within the Arena of the War of Ideas! So get in the fight!)
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To: freedumb2003
"PL 610?"

No, actually a 720. They changed the engine design midyear as well as changing the body style to the "hard body" design - which I thought was ugly as heck.

I see a few of these from time to time but the owners have really maintained them!

73 posted on 01/04/2006 9:23:33 AM PST by Salem (FREE REPUBLIC - Fighting to win within the Arena of the War of Ideas! So get in the fight!)
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To: Tenacious 1
What is a fair amount (percentage maybe?)to offer a dealer over the Blackbook price? Dealers are in business to make money, and I'm a consumer wanting to save a buck.

I want to make sure neither of us are leaving anything on the table.

74 posted on 01/04/2006 9:36:15 AM PST by joesbucks
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To: Lawgvr1955; BigTex5; Defendingliberty
Hi, guys and Alouette...I'm just a l'il ol' female, but if I'm not mistaken, Toyota engines aren't affected when the timing belt breaks. However, it's a moot point now with the newer models.

Four-cylinder engine: Models from 1992 to 2002 had the 2.2-liter, DOHC 16-valve four-cylinder engine that might seem slightly underpowered but was vary reliable. Starting from 2002 Camry received new 4-cylinder 2.4-liter DOHC 16-valve engine with Variable Valve timing with intelligence (VVT-i) delivering 157 horsepower at 5,600 rpm. The cylinder block and the head are made from aluminium alloy to reduce weight. Timing belt was replaced by a chain to reduce maintenance costs (no need to replace a timing belt). This engine offers good low-end torque, reasonable power and good fuel economy.

Found

I'm on m y second Toyota Camry. My first had over 200,000 miles on it when I bought a "demo" off the lot with 29,000 miles on it in 1997. It's still going strong with close to 200,000 miles on it. I've only had to do routine maintenance with it, replace struts once, and brakes twice. Honest. Actually, just once on the rear brakes. Exhaust, transmission, etc. are all original.

75 posted on 01/04/2006 1:27:22 PM PST by GummyIII
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To: GummyIII
Oops....found here...
76 posted on 01/04/2006 1:29:06 PM PST by GummyIII
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To: Alouette

That car is definately a Total Loss The entire uniside would have to be replaced. That includes the center pillar and rocker and front hinge pillar. Approx 20 hr to replace. Plus the floor is severely damaged. Both of your doors are toast. Who ever said 3-4 k in damages is very wrong. I write estimates for a living. I am an Insurance auto adjuster. That car has a lot of unibody damage. Cars do not have a separate frame, the body is the frame.

Most insurance companies use CCC as the evaluating companies . They have an auto search option. Get The CCC refereance # and call CCC at 1800 621 8070 and have them forward you the dealers and the taking prices for similar cars they have on their database.

GM cars are cheaper than Honda's .Keep away from the Prius. Over priced and not good value.

Great deals new with GM right now 6-7 K under what they were 7 months ago.

Car max does not offer the best value on used cars. That elimanate the negotiating . Go to NADA.com for values of used cars. Kelly is usually inflated. Once you know the value of a car go shopping. Remember dealers in used car are getting them for trade in, so If you offer over that they are still making a profit.


77 posted on 01/04/2006 8:20:36 PM PST by Rhiannon
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To: KC Burke

Wrong, no insurance company is legally liable to buy a car. They only owe the actual cash value of the car. That is an objective valuation.


78 posted on 01/04/2006 8:25:37 PM PST by Rhiannon
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To: Alouette
I bought my car from a junk dealer. It was a year old, and had 1200 miles on it. It had been stolen from a dealer in TX and stripped of the electric seats, sun roof and radio. Volvo totaled the car because the seats and sun roof would have cost $14000 to replace. The thief obviously knew this, and expected to buy the rest of the car at auction, but got arrested. So, I got the car and Volvo honored the full warranty, but it has a salvage title. I've been driving it for ten years and never had any problem except regular maintenance and a broke engine mount.
79 posted on 01/04/2006 8:40:26 PM PST by Eva
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To: GummyIII

Former girlfriend had a Toyota Camry. Great car. The only thing that stopped it was a deer!!


80 posted on 01/04/2006 10:27:34 PM PST by Lawgvr1955 (You can never have too much cowbell !!)
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