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Further info: It acts fuel starved. The float window shows half fuel or half empty for you pessimists. The fuel pump is 2 months new. The fuel filter was replaced yesterday. Gasoline additives have been used, i.e HEET and Marvel's Mystery Oil.

The problem is intermittent with an intermittent "Check Engine" light.

I'm not sure if the two are synchronous-- meaning the problems occurs when the light is on/off.

The problem started as the weather turned colder.

I'm wondering if any sensors are failing or vacuum line problems might exist.

Thanks.

1 posted on 12/01/2005 10:28:12 AM PST by Bear_Slayer
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To: Bear_Slayer
I need detailed information to solve a fuel problem for a 88 Chevy Spectrum.

Sell it for scrap.

2 posted on 12/01/2005 10:30:33 AM PST by Phantom Lord (Fall on to your knees for the Phantom Lord)
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To: Bear_Slayer

Shoot the poor thing and put it out of it's misery


3 posted on 12/01/2005 10:32:29 AM PST by Xenophobic Alien (Kerry lost. Please take that stupid bumper sticker off your car!)
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To: Bear_Slayer; A+Bert

If A Bert is sober he can help.


5 posted on 12/01/2005 10:33:14 AM PST by DainBramage
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To: Bear_Slayer

Many auto parts stores will read the computer on your car for free and then give you recommendations for what parts to replace and such.


6 posted on 12/01/2005 10:34:43 AM PST by PureTrouble
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To: Bear_Slayer

How many pickups are there in the tank, and do they have filter screens over them? I had another car that would behave like this, but only when quite low on fuel.


7 posted on 12/01/2005 10:35:38 AM PST by -YYZ-
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To: Bear_Slayer
The problem started as the weather turned colder.

The problem started as it left the assembly line.

Honestly, you need access to the codes, so you will likely need an honest mechanic to give you an hones quote and THEN you make the call on whether you are getting close to being upside down.

If it acts poorly once the car is warmed up and the intake air is reasonably warm I would check all the hoses, though, cold snaps on rubber that old cause them to crack and you REALLY have to look closely to see some cracks.

8 posted on 12/01/2005 10:38:19 AM PST by freedomlover (This Fall a Woman will be the Mother of a Mouse)
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To: Bear_Slayer

go to google, use 'google groups' (formerly deja news).

type in the basic symptoms and the model of your car and you'll likely find many posts with the same problem.


9 posted on 12/01/2005 10:38:44 AM PST by flashbunny (To err is human. But to really screw something up, have the government try to fix it.)
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To: Bear_Slayer

There is a computer operated solenoid on top of the carb. First, read the codes, the solenoid is expensive, 100 bucks or so, also the charcoal canister can go bad, leaking pellets into the bowl and blocking the jets, . If the carb is worn anyway, throttle shafts wiggly, I'd stick a Holley on it. Make sure that your spark advance modual is working as the sudden retardation of timing can feel just like starvation. Go to Yahoo groups and search for GM, you'll find other chevy owners there. Cars are a PITA


10 posted on 12/01/2005 10:39:24 AM PST by wildcatf4f3 (admittedly too unstable for public office)
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To: Bear_Slayer

If you are worried about fuel pickup problems out of the tank with some relative creativity you can sort that out with a small gas can and the right length hose to the low side of your gas pump just to check if that works DONT DRIVE AROUND LIKE THAT FROM NOW ON. I would never do such a thing in an old car like a 1964 dart I had once.


11 posted on 12/01/2005 10:43:33 AM PST by freedomlover (This Fall a Woman will be the Mother of a Mouse)
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To: Bear_Slayer

Sensors or vacuum lines will cause the engine light to come on. As you know, the sensors are emissions-related. I'm not sure whether a gas flow problem would cause the light to come on.

Are you sure it is a gas flow type problem and not a catalytic converter problem? A clogged converter will result in tremendous loss of power where you can stomp on the gas, but the vehicle won't move the way it should.


13 posted on 12/01/2005 10:47:46 AM PST by Loyal Buckeye
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To: Bear_Slayer

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/forum/


15 posted on 12/01/2005 10:48:23 AM PST by Retired Chemist
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To: Bear_Slayer
First step, throw away the Chilton's manual. They're about as useful as a screen door on a submarine. Buy a Haynes manual for it instead.

Typical Chilton's instructions:

Engine Overhaul Procedure

  1. Remove engine
  2. Overhaul engine
  3. Install engine

16 posted on 12/01/2005 10:48:34 AM PST by TChris ("Unless you act, you're going to lose your world." - Mark Steyn)
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To: Bear_Slayer; All

You have one of 3 problems. May I sugest the k.i.s.s. [keep it simple stupid] principal. Start with most inexpensive part, maybe the fuel filter, then check the fuel pump [if electric check the voltage to anf from it, if mechanical check the output flow from it] then worst case option the fuel injectors are clogged and need to be cleaned. This means that they need to be removed to have cleaned. I might suggest a good auto repair shop for this as the clearences for these may be very close, and to be fixed by a trained mechanic.


19 posted on 12/01/2005 10:54:16 AM PST by TMSuchman (2nd Generation U.S. MARINE, 3rd Generation American & PROUD OF IT!)
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To: Bear_Slayer

Remove the bananas from the gas tank and add some gasoline..


20 posted on 12/01/2005 10:54:19 AM PST by RTINSC (What, Me Worry?..My company offers French benefits...)
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To: Bear_Slayer
Make sure there is no water in the tank - some gas antifreeze should do the trick. Make sure the gas cap seals as it should - an old worn cap can cause similar problems. Have the throttle position sensor checked - it can cause hard starting, stalling at low rpm and have it seem to run OK at higher speeds.

Good Luck

23 posted on 12/01/2005 11:00:13 AM PST by trebb ("I am the way... no one comes to the Father, but by me..." - Jesus in John 14:6 (RSV))
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To: Bear_Slayer

Try replacing the O2 sensor. Bad O2 sensor will cause the car to act sluggist or like it is lugging and will also key the check engine light.


26 posted on 12/01/2005 11:01:01 AM PST by Flying Circus
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To: Bear_Slayer

Sounds like you may have a faulty or clogged inline fuel filter.


28 posted on 12/01/2005 11:05:32 AM PST by Quilla
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To: Bear_Slayer

"All-Data" . often available at libraries on cd rom.


29 posted on 12/01/2005 11:08:27 AM PST by Rakkasan1 (Peace de Resistance! Viva la Paper towels!)
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To: Bear_Slayer

If replacing the fuel filter didn't fix it, you have an intermittent problem with the fuel pump, presumably electric.

Replace that.

Don't worry about the O2 sensor - yours probably gave up long ago, and in any case won't give symptoms like yours.

Ah, one other thing: make sure your fuel tank vent is working properly, letting air in to replace fuel removed. If not you could be drawing a vacuum, preventing fuel from leaving!


31 posted on 12/01/2005 11:12:04 AM PST by Redbob
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To: Bear_Slayer
Further info: It acts fuel starved

A little more info might help:

Does act like this at high speeds?

At idle?

Upon acceleration?

All the time?

When you reach a a certain RPM?

There are different reasons for each incident.

32 posted on 12/01/2005 11:14:17 AM PST by raybbr
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