Posted on 12/08/2023 4:09:18 AM PST by CptnObvious
Water Heater Saving Project.
I've moved into a new home in a retirement community and don't want big bills to replace my Water Heater down the line. I also don't like the idea that my energy bills may go up significantly with the global climate change policies that many are embracing. What can I do?
Powered Anode (With LED) - $99 Amazon. $10 - Water Pressure gauge Home Depot. $5 Meat Temperature gauge. Plumber $89.
First: High Water Pressure and High water Temperatures kill Water Heaters prematurely (as low as 5 years). Over 80 PSI or over $180, I consider too high. (Google Water Heater pressure temperature too high). If you find either of these, buy the Powered Anode with LED ASAP and call your plumber.
Inside your hot water heater is a Sacrificial Anode,a rod 4' long in the middle of the tank, attached to the top as a Bolt. It rusts rather than your tank and at about 4 years drops into the bottom of the tank and the tank starts to rust. After 2-3 years of the tank rusting, it usually leaks and has to be replaced.
You can replace the sacrificial anode every 4 years or go to the Powered Anode with LED (a much better idea) one time.
Note: I do NOT Consider this a DIY Project unless you are a plumber or have plumbing experience.
Results: My water pressure and Temperature was way too high. I knew enough via YouTube to adjust the water pressure regulator, water heater temperature control and set the air pressure in the Bladder Tank to same average Water Pressure.
When doing regular maintenace, I was draining the tank a bit as usual and the LED to the anode went out. Proving that the powered anode was working. From then on, I unplug the anode charger wait 10 minutes, drain a bit, re-establish pressure, and reattach the Charger.
I love this little green LED as it will tell me if the Water Heater has an issue with the anode.
SIDE BENEFIT: Adjusting the Water Pressure, correctly, stabilized the pressure. Now it only changes about 6 PSI from heating to stabilization (before about 12 PSI).
Impact wrench, air or electric, works every time
A 36 inch pipe wrench also does wonders.
The best answer is a conventional GAS water heater (burner under the metal tank).
Don’t pay “extra” for a longer warranty, its just insurance, the water heater is no different.
When it craps out, buy a new one.
No draining/flushing or suffering with low water pressure.
Also “brand” (in conventional water heaters) is meaningless! Get the best deal you can. “What’s on SALE?” buy it!
Having personally sold/replaced/installed HUNDREDS of water heaters, I know what I am talking about.
I have replaced many Monel tanks in my day. They didn’t last forever, but I would tell my customers who asked about replacing their very old looking Ruud Monel tanks to wait until it leaked because it was the best water heater ever made. No telling just how long it might last.
140 degrees ONLY! Any lower grows bacteria.
On demand water heaters SUCK!
Indirect fired water heaters (a separate water tank heated by your boiler by a coil) are great. Especially when coupled with a high efficiency “gas” boiler.
NOT a coil IN THE BOILER ITSELF! (VERY BAD IDEA)
Be aware, when you replace the ANODE, you probably want to look into replacing your pressure relief valve as well.
While you can indeed extend the life of the anode, there is a reason tanks are designed to fail... because eventually that pressure relief valve will stop working.
If it stops working that means you can wind up with a bomb. So, yes you can replace your anode every so many years and keep your tank from rusting, but over time the pressure relief valve will eventually freeze shut. If this happens, and should your tank have some other malfunction that can build up pressure... well, this is the potential result.
“High water pressure wears out all the plumbing fixtures in your house, the ballcocks in the toilets, the valve in the dishwasher, faucets, the shower valves, the washing machine, and the hoses on the washing machine are more likely to burst, high water pressure is bad, bad, bad.”
What you say makes sense. It’s sort of analogous to high voltage electrical surges burning out light bulbs.
You can just turn down the main feed into your house a few notches. I have not done that and certainly have had issues with faucets. It will take a tad longer to run the washing machine and dishwater but may be worth it.
I will look into it. Thanks!
So, you know about the Sacrificial Anode?
Yeah and high water pressure and very high temperatures are worse on Water Heaters. Bad Bad Bad Cubed.
I was joking.
High water pressure requires a water pressure regulator on the main supply line, when the plumber installs that make sure he installs a good ball valve shut-off that anyone can see and shut off at 2;00 am, that even a baby-sitter or grandma can find and turn off in an emergency.
This quickly answers the question about closing a shut-off valve to reduce pressure.
https://www.plbg.com/forum/read.php?1,337042
Thanks. Informative article.
First I need to find out what my water pressure is. I suspect its high but don’t really know the facts. I do live close and below a water tower.
Also don’t know what level the water company has set for feeds to these houses in my neighborhood.
I’ll have to check this out more.
A monel tank will never rot out.
Just bought a 30 gallon electric. $400
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