Bolt extractor, available at Sears in a set, can be hammered onto the stud, then chucked into a cordless drill.
Posted on 08/20/2016 2:26:32 PM PDT by gaijin
96 Camry V6, 166k miles, engine = 1MZFE (I think)
Flushed engine, changed oil, got a low oil-pressure light, pulled over.
Dropped oil pan, cleared out a TON of oil boogers that were in the pan, YIKES..! Also swished the oil pick-up tube around in some flush solution, cleared the screen.
Drove around a week and it was FINE..! Then oil pressure light returned :(
Swapped out the oil pressure sender switch (don't have the oil pressure tester gauge but I ordered one) and the oil pressure light did come with the new switch.
Hoping it's more oil boogers in the pan not the engine bearings, I want to drop the pan again:
Turns out I overtightened one of the two nuts that secure the pan. The nut is in great condition and is flush to the pan surface but turns FOREVER without backing off the stud and it's in tight quarters.
"Get a screwdriver behind it and pry a bit while untightening with the socket..!"
Yeah, I tried that but when the stud got stripped the nut was RIGHT UP against the pan --I cannot get a screwdriver under there.
"Try a knife!" Yeah, I did that and it didn't work. That IS thinner, but there still isn't enough space. :(
"Put some freepin' vice-grips on that suckah and pull DOWN while going lefty-loosy..! You'll get it back on the threads, bro..!" Yeah, I tried that but that nut STILL won't back off the threads. Vice-grips pull off that slippery nut :(
I own a Dremel but it's not a cordless one and the car is parked across the street from this Starbucks from which I'm typing, and I can't access an outlet.
WHAT DO..? This sucks. :(
I have used cut off wheels on my Dremel tool to slice slivers off the nut. Once a lot of metal is cut away from the nut, you should be able to chisel away the remnants from the stud. Chase the stud with a die tool, then use a larger washer with a new nut to refasten tight.
You need a voltage inverter device. They can be obtained cheaply with enough amperage to drive a Dremel tool. Plug it in your DC outlet, then plug the Dremel into the AC outlet on the voltage inverter. They are very handy devices to own.
Bolt extractor, available at Sears in a set, can be hammered onto the stud, then chucked into a cordless drill.
The nut is only a secondary problem. To start out with,this engine should have been pulled & completely gone through,but that may have been cost prohibitive considering the age & miles. The way this problem was attacked would never get all that sludge out.
4.3 psi at idle. 36 psi at 300rpm. minimums.
So how did it turn out? This is what I did to my engine. Like I said, not for amateurs. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
Amazing link..!
Well I spent HOURS on my oil pan and I DID IT..!
First I hammered a buckknife tip under the bolt. Pried a bit, then snuck a surplus butter knife under there, too, took out buckknife. Pried some more with butter knife, snuck screwdriver under there. Withdrew butter knife, pried A WHOLE LOT with the screwdriver.
Hammered on that suckah a whole bunch. Like for an hour.
FINALLY a miracle happened and the whole stud unscrewed and came out, freeing my pan.
I cleaned out the boogers from the oil pan, replaced oil 5w-30 synthetic and put a thing of Lucas oil treatment in there, also.
SO RELIEVED..!!!
And I passed on your link to a bunch of Toyota people who will probably really love you for it.
What was that SOAK SOLUTION he put those 1MZ-FE heads in..?
SPARKLING..! Wow.
NAPA carb cleaner. It comes in a 5gal bucket for @ $100. He used two buckets and poured them into a barrel. I just used one and soaked one side of the head, pan, etc., at a time. The problem you have was caused by the engine flush. It loosened too much, too soon. A gradual cleaning with marvel mystery oil would have been better.
NAPA carb cleaner. It comes in a 5gal bucket for @ $100. He used two buckets and poured them into a barrel. I just used one and soaked one side of the head, pan, etc., at a time. The problem you have was caused by the engine flush. It loosened too much, too soon. A gradual cleaning with marvel mystery oil would have been better.
I suspect you’ll have the light again as the sludge works its way through. That’s why I recommend cheap 5w-30. I also recommend Marvel Mystery Oil because it is a cleaner. I ran into another problem on mine after a few thousand miles. The oil pump bypass seized up. Instead of changing the pump, I just took it apart and cleaned it. Not hard to do and it can be done by just dropping the oil pan.
I can clean my oil pump with the oil pan off..? Dang, that’s a new one on me. You have a 96 camry..?
Maybe you mean there is a sub-portion of the pump that dips into the pan?
Or maybe u mean drop the pan and then reach up and disconnect the upper pan, or apron..?
What you said sounds super interesting, but I thought to get at the whole oil pump u gotta take off the alternator belt & timing belts, etc.
By some coincidence I did order a new oil pump the other day. Weird thing was there was no gaskets or spinner thing inside, just one big metal piece was all.
??
I had added 2/3 of a bottle of Sea Foam into my oil and that’s why I think I was getting all these alarms —a lot of stuff was breaking off pretty fast.
I changed that oil out, no sea foam in it now. I think a more gradual approach is reasonable.
Ya think a bunch of 1,000 mile oil change increments is good with 5w-30..?
I had a 2002 Camry 4 cyl. I got the pump off and on by just dropping the pan. It was chain driven. I’d drop the pan and look at the oil pickup after 100k, if you don’t get the light any sooner. The oil pickup being clogged is what’ll kill it.
I meant take a look at the pickup after 1000 miles. I’m having problems with my keyboard.
Dude I can help fix that.
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