Posted on 08/20/2016 2:26:32 PM PDT by gaijin
96 Camry V6, 166k miles, engine = 1MZFE (I think)
Flushed engine, changed oil, got a low oil-pressure light, pulled over.
Dropped oil pan, cleared out a TON of oil boogers that were in the pan, YIKES..! Also swished the oil pick-up tube around in some flush solution, cleared the screen.
Drove around a week and it was FINE..! Then oil pressure light returned :(
Swapped out the oil pressure sender switch (don't have the oil pressure tester gauge but I ordered one) and the oil pressure light did come with the new switch.
Hoping it's more oil boogers in the pan not the engine bearings, I want to drop the pan again:
Turns out I overtightened one of the two nuts that secure the pan. The nut is in great condition and is flush to the pan surface but turns FOREVER without backing off the stud and it's in tight quarters.
"Get a screwdriver behind it and pry a bit while untightening with the socket..!"
Yeah, I tried that but when the stud got stripped the nut was RIGHT UP against the pan --I cannot get a screwdriver under there.
"Try a knife!" Yeah, I did that and it didn't work. That IS thinner, but there still isn't enough space. :(
"Put some freepin' vice-grips on that suckah and pull DOWN while going lefty-loosy..! You'll get it back on the threads, bro..!" Yeah, I tried that but that nut STILL won't back off the threads. Vice-grips pull off that slippery nut :(
I own a Dremel but it's not a cordless one and the car is parked across the street from this Starbucks from which I'm typing, and I can't access an outlet.
WHAT DO..? This sucks. :(
I’d try the two but trick. Btw, it’s not a sending unit. These engines are notorious for sludge. Do a Google search for it. You’ll get good at dropping the pan and cleaning the oil pickup before you sort it out. Run Wal-Mart conventional oil with 20% marvel mystery oil and change every 3k. You might also pull the oil press sender and clean it. A full de-sludge is no job for amateurs, but a gradual cleaning should get you by.
Two nuts together trick. Damn autocorrect.
Great idea! Did you miss the part where he's across the street from a starbucks not in a repair shop?
I have reverse drill bits that will often back the bolt out as you drill it.
You must be dead center or else things get much worse.
Break off an ez out or drill bit and you’re in a real bad way.
I like the tack weld method best if you can get to it. Even a bolt that is broke off flush can be tacked down the middle of a extra over sized nut. Even if weld into the casting around the bolt a little bit it can still turn it out.
It takes tedious smarts.
I had one of those once, but, thankfully, she moved to Portland.
Hey!
Just y’all stay away from Lurlene’s breasticles!
[snicker]
Starbucks? He needs to tow it to a shop. He’s already ‘done’ enough.
Get some of those lazy ass liberals in Starbucks to push your car over to an outlet. If you have a cut off wheel for the dremel- cut the nut off. Like others mentioned above you'll have to drill out the stud with a carbide bit and use a heli-coil to restore the threads. If you're good with the dremel you can remove most of the stud with a small carbide dremel bit and re-tap.
Second this. You're going to have to go past asking to telling, and a chisel is the way to do it. But wrench is right, a steel chisel will cut it. So if you want to save the post, use a cheap wood chisel and hammer it in and then lever the nut while you crank it.
Can you get a pair of Channelocks on the head w/ a screwdriver under it acting like a fulcrum? Sometimes just a 1/4-1/2 turn will get the threads to catch.
Could you get something between the pan and the block and put a little downward pressure w/o distorting the pan?
” I never really liked doing it and your post makes me realize that I plan to never do any more.”
That’s true with a lot of things. I used do all my own electrical, plumbing, and gas plumbing. At the time, I liked doing it and liked saving money. Now that I have enough money and am getting older, there are other things I’d rather do with my remaining time.
Machinist here...
Is the nut spinning or is the nut and stud spinning?
Get a case of oil and drive it home.
If stud is rotating...
Try bending the nut with vise grips. This will seize it to the stud maybe the stud stud can be removed. Failing that drill a hole in to the stud and use an Easy Out. If that still doesn’t do it drill pilot hole in to stud. Then drill the threads out only as deep as the nut. Remove nut. Try stud again. Still no then drill out stud and thread the hole for a Helicoil insert. Insert new stud and nut.
If only nut turns...
Buy a cordless dremel and split the nut. If you have access you can also get a nut splitter and crack the nut. Most likely the nut is stripped and stud should be ok. But you will still want to chase all the threads. Chase the threads on all the studs when you remove the pan and use new nuts.
You mean nuts or bolts? Are there studs sticking out of the engine? Or do bolts go in to threaded holes in the block?
grind it off and tap a new hole ... an awful lot to go through for an oil pan.
I did the google search on the 1MZ-FE and Sludge and u suggested, and I discovered you are right —the sludging is apparently a very broad problem.
For the 3k mile OCI’s what conventional oil subtype should I use with the 20% Marvel..?
20w-50...? I need something thick.
You only need the thicker oil if your engine bearings are worn badly. This is usually the cause of low oil pressure. However, the thicker oil could be a detriment in cold weather. Best bet would be to check the pressure with a gauge.
I can tell you everything you need to know about that kind of stuff.
Take it to a professional who does that for a living, and when he’s done pay him whatever he asks for it.
If the bolt is into the bottom of the block, and the block is threaded to accept that bolt, get it towed to a mechanic and have them fix it. You’ll never be able to do it yourself in a parking lot.
Go buy something reliable.
Or do everything Organic Panic and Dr. Bogus says.
Either way, my prayers are with you.
Keep us posted.
Take all the other bolts out of the pan, use the loose pan to apply down leverage on the bolt as you turn the bolt. Alternatively, put a pry (screwdriver) between the loose pan and the engine block where the bolt is and pry down on the screwdriver as you turn the bolt. You have stripped the treads and likely some of the stripped material is lodged in the bolt threads preventing the bolt from coming out.
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