Posted on 10/08/2014 10:49:46 AM PDT by aardwolf46
All over the internet recently, sciFy vs. reality and a Mars satellite for petty cash:
That breaks the monopoly. Faced with the spectre of other nations publishing uncensored Mars images, NASA and JPL have started publishing some much more obvious images than they have in the past including a totally uncensored video (JPL) showing large-scale structure.
A few items...
JPL uncensored video showing large-scale structure:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W7-4nSye4lM
Raw JPL video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka08deWohpQ
Electrical device of some sort with helical coil wound around it
Device is on the left, about a third of the way down on the image
Raw image showing gear:
Raw NASA/JPL image:
Metallic container with handle
Raw image:
One final game-over category image
Facebook group dealing with Mars anomaly images:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheMarsReality/
Other resources:
http://marsanomalyresearch.com
http://whatsupinthesky.com
Either someone is dumping out a large Slurpee or..
Frusen Glädjé is back in business.
What do you mean, Frusen Glädjé isn't Swedish for 'frozen glop'??
NA, no turbo. Rough running on start and slow engine response (slower than usual even) are kind of pointing the way. It’s a weird single cam engine but I still don’t want the timing belt to go out on me and that’s my main concern with it. I had that happen on a Chrysler product and it was a pain to sell afterwards.
I love the Baja but not enough to not get rid of it if maintenance is too much money to be worthwhile. I’ll prolong my payments for another year and pick up an XV Crosstrek and wear that out playing rallycar for a while.
I don’t know. Sounds like it might be worthwhile to replace the timing belt, water pump (because it’s the same labor, basically), and maybe some sensors such as Cam Position Sensor or others, if your vehicle has them.
In this way, if the repair at 125,000 miles was not done, you’re doing it, and the remaining danger to the engine might be a bad head gasket, which is not immediately fatal to the engine.
I don’t know if a mechanic can tell if the head gaskets have been replaced without pulling the heads, which is the same as replacing them. But compression tests could be done. If all cylinders have good compression, there may be a dance in the old dame yet.
These repairs would run a few hundred, and will insure that you can continue with the same vehicle for a time. It’s your choice, but the symptoms you’re describing might be fixable at a relatively modest cost, in comparison to swapping vehicles. Even if you later decide to swap vehicles, the maintenance done should fetch a better trade price.
OK.. Is it throwing a check engine light? If so a code reader will give you some ideas.
Couple of things. As NNB said, compression test will shed a lot of light on the internals. Cheapest scenario is that you have a spark plug wire arcing to the block. Especially if it's worse when cold and especially damp, then gets better when it warms up under the hood. Silicone dielectric grease can fix that - maybe, else new ignition wires. Next cheapest is the timing belt has stretched enough that it is affecting timing. Even if the TB was changed once, at 150k you're due. Seriously doubt that a visual without teardown will indicate whether the head gaskets have been changed if you don't have records from previous owner.
Do the compression test. If it's good, you are probably looking at timing belt/sensors (which a decent diagnostic test should expose). If there is anything flakey w/compression test you can pretty much bet on head gasket (as opposed to rings) due to the statistics of that engine.
Once you know whether or not you are looking at head gasket replacement you can start making decisions. If you have to tear down to do the gaskets, all that renewable stuff should also be changed - why take it all off to put just one new thing on and then all the old stuff back..
Again - look for some of the other signs. If head gasket is starting to fail, popping the cap on your coolant overflow and doing a visual for black crud and a sniff test for exhaust smell in the fluid can give you a heads up on that. There should of course be no black crud in the coolant - if so means oil is getting into there somehow (like through the head gasket ;-)
There is a Swedish Chap On this site, if you need the correct translation of Gloop? :)
Castle the King with the Rook.
Send the Queen into battle with the Bishops and Knights.
The Pawns will hold the back row and go Queen upon their arrival.
Is it me, or does kitty resemble the Cheshire Cat?
That smile....
Good morning Tax Chick! Good morning everybody! Happy Hump Day!
Good morning. I’m not sure how he got that expression.
My grandfather would say “Only the Shadow knows”
That’s as good a reply as any.
Well, off to the gym. 44 and drizzling, but it’s supposed to in the 60s later.
No check engine. It always sounds a bit noisy and rattly but that’s because the exhaust is rusting because its a new England car. Its only recently that the engine itself has started sounding rough and acting (more) sluggish than usual.
Which means we really don’t know. If He lived with his parents He did not have his own home or His own goods. And we really don’t know if He did.
I made it through the night, and now I just have to hit the streets running.
Still sprinkling. Cold. Unngh!
True, the information is not given.
Hello! I hope you hit the streets carefully. It’s still cold here.
I was safe. Damp, cold and safe. Now I have to take some more Ibuprofen and put the grocks away.
I need to make a phone call and then take a shower. One thing after another ...
You should describe your automotive issues on the NC board. A lot of those guys fix cars.
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