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To: TEXOKIE
Back to our discussion of early planting times. We are in the Ozark Plateau area of Missouri, so our planting schedule is the same as Northern Missouri. Which is after the mid Missouri and boot-heel regions, because of the higher elevation.

So I have done a little more research on peas. Turns out the Missouri Extension schedule/planning article(not to mention all the others) didn't tell the whole story on spring planting. They show no indoor germinationfor peas.

I have used this guideline, since the 1st year of planting. According to that, we should plant peas out side beginning with 3/25 and beets starting on 4/01. So that's what I have always done.

I don't know why I didn't put two and two together before, but here's the deal: the best soil temps for germination for these veggies is 70 degrees and above. Yet, the plants themselves grow better in a cool temperature below 70.

Peas in particular, can have an issue with fursarium wilt, which numerous articles from many sources have never mentioned. If it strikes, it appears when the temps reach 70 degrees, and cuts short the harvest(also never mentioned in articles I've read on this wilt issue).

Now our temps have been bouncing around between the 40s and 30s most of the nights so far, and often during the day. Peas take 36 days to germinate at 41 degrees. What a joke - why would anyone want to plant them outside now and wait over a month for germination? Especially when the harvest needs to start and be complete in May? (June is hot enough for the wilt for sure)

Then, say the peas have 70 DTM? Sometime in May we begin to have 70 degree temps, which means the harvest is about to be in jeopardy.

Seems to me that what they should have advised is to start those peas indoors a week or a few weeks sooner, so that the peas can germinate, and get some growth and then be transplanted in April so that they can mature sometime at the end of April, and harvest the first few weeks in May.

So then looking at all the other soil temps and germination times, best times are all at 70+ degrees or above. So seems to me that the same could be said for cukes, as I have had trouble with fussarium wilt with them for sure.

So I am going to start a bunch of stuff that is normally planted outside this time of year, in paper cups, so that I can just peel off the paper and transplant with as little trama to the roots as possible, and see how that experiment works. Then next year I'll start about 2 weeks earlier for these to see how that works, and also try to get the shortest DTM possible. The other stuff I have grown successfully will stay on the MU Extension Schedule.

233 posted on 04/08/2014 9:48:48 PM PDT by greeneyes (Moderation in defense of your country is NO virtue. Let Freedom Ring.)
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To: greeneyes
I start everything inside in cups. I don't direct sow anything anymore. The critters here love seeds. Plants have a fighting chance.

I basically just sprouted the sunflowers. When they had broken the shell, and showed they were making a root, into the big garden they went, since they need that initial root growth to support the tall flowers.

But if I direct planted them, the ants and the birds would be picketing for more free seed.

/johnny

244 posted on 04/09/2014 12:38:21 PM PDT by JRandomFreeper (Gone Galt)
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To: greeneyes

One way to kick-start peas is to soak them in room-temperature water for an hour, then keep them damp overnight before planting. That gets them past the germination stage, and they can handle the cooler soil temps after that.


258 posted on 04/09/2014 6:17:33 PM PDT by Ellendra ("Laws were most numerous when the Commonwealth was most corrupt." -Tacitus)
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